234 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
thinning should, of course, be done early aDd gradu¬ 
ally, always leaving the best placed fruit, as already 
mentioned in the case of Peaches and Nectarines, 
as a fair crop of large and well-coloured Plums is 
far more valuable than a multitude consisting of little 
else than stone and skin. 
The system already advised as to the stopping of 
the young growing shoots, when about 6 in. or 8 in. 
long, Is applicable to Plum trees in pots. This not 
only admits more light to the fruit, but, I think, 
throws more energy or power into it, as may be seen 
at any time by a close observer. 
Taking varieties as most suitable for pot culture, I 
may state that all varieties answer, but, of course, 
some are much better than others. I recollect once 
asking the late Mr. Stevens, when he was chief at 
Trentham, what he considered the best Plum under 
glass. His answer was " the old Victoria.” It is a 
grand dessert Plum this, and one of the most certain 
bearers. I think it very possible that if alive now 
he would modify his opinion somewhat, and swear 
by some of more recent introduction. I am sure 
that there are few fruits in cultivation that will sur¬ 
pass in quality or appearance well-ripened fruits of 
Golden Transparent Gage, Early Transparent Gage, 
and Transparent Gage. From trees under glass 
they are simply delicious. Other fine varieties of 
first-rate flavour and beautiful colour are Kirke’s, 
Jefferson’s, Lawson’s Golden Gage, Washington, 
Reine Claude du Comte Hathem, July Green Gage, 
and Denniston’s Superb. For its earliness and pro¬ 
lific habit, Early Favourite is worthy of a place in 
the orchard house. The flavour is very agreeable, 
and a dense bloom on the fruit adds to its beauty con¬ 
siderably. I do not think it necessary to inflict upon 
you the names of culinary varieties, as the space 
under glass in a gentleman’s garden is usually much 
too valuable to occupy the same with fruits for the 
kitchen. Many other fine and desirable varieties 
for dessert could be named, but probably quite 
sufficient have been named to serve for any garden 
of the ordinary size on a gentleman’s place. 
Before leaving Plums, however, I should like to 
call attention to their value as cordon trees under 
glass. These may be trained up the roof in the 
usual manner, or they could be planted against the 
back wall, and trained on the slope. The distance 
to plant these cordons would be about 15 in. apart, 
and if kept in proper order this is ample space. No 
elaborate structure is necessary or desirable. A 
simple glass case against a wall will answer quite as 
well as a more imposing and costly structure, and if 
a flow and return pipe is put therein to turn a little 
heat on when frosty, or to hasten development of 
the fruit, a good crop is practically assured, as the 
gardener is thus made independent of adverse 
climatic conditions, and unless something very ex¬ 
traordinary occurs the trees will continue fruitful for 
many years, and yield an astonishing quantity of the 
most delicious fruit. Probably if gardeners were to 
bring the advantages of such a structure to their 
employer’s notice, many would—if fond of fruit—be 
inclined to adopt the plan. 
Apricots and Cherries. 
To grow both these fruits well the house must not 
only be very light, but have means for perfect venti¬ 
lation, both at the top and sides of the house. Un¬ 
less a cool, buoyant condition is present in the house 
a good set is practically impossible, as both fruits 
are impatient of coddling or stuffiness when in 
flower, and to attempt to grow Apricots or Cherries 
with Peaches forced early, is simply courting failure. 
A temperature of 55 0 by day, falling io° at night, is 
quite high enough for both when in flower, and un¬ 
less the weather outside is particularly unfavourable 
a gentle circulation of air is desirable to ensure a 
good set; and, again, when the fruit is set and be¬ 
ginning to swell, any attempt to push them on un¬ 
duly fast will be followed by evil results, such as 
dropping of the fruit, etc. 
Both the Apricot and Cherry are easily grown in 
pots, if, as already stated, a suitable structure is 
available, and the fruit is always most acceptable and 
of high quality, safe from birds, and a welcome 
change on the dessert table. The size of pots and 
the compost mentioned for Peaches and Nectarines 
are equally suited for these fruits by taking care to 
have the drainage perfectly free, and the soil 
rammed firmly in the pots. When the trees are 
bearing good crops of fruit a mulch of fibrous loam 
and well decayed manure is very beneficial, as it 
provides not only an increased rooting medium, but 
is invigorating at a period when the trees most 
require assistance. 
No hard and fast rule can be laid down as to 
pruning, and when it should be done with any fruit 
trees in pots or otherwise, as so much depends on the 
health, vigour, and shape of the tree. Some trees 
make scarcely any growth, and seem to devote all 
their energy to fruit production, while others are 
quite the opposite. As a general rule it is safe to 
pinch out the points of the shoots when 6 in. dr 8 
in. long, except in the cast of a shoot required to 
make the tree more symmetrical, which may be 
allowed to grow to the desired length. 
Figs. 
The Fig is evidently so much in favour at the pre¬ 
sent time, that I should be neglecting one of the 
most important orchard house trees were I to omit 
it. There can be no question that the best mode of 
growing Figs is to devote a house entirely to them, 
which may be large or small as the requirements of 
the place necessitate. For choice I prefer growing 
the trees in pots rather than planted out. It takes 
certainly more labour and requires closer attention 
to grow them in pots than planted out, but given 
sufficient labour and a suitable house, I believe a 
greater quantity of fruit of good size and fine flavour 
can be obtained from the pot trees. I fully admit 
that grand crops are grown on planted out trees, but 
usually only one good crop in a season can be 
matured ; while two and even three fine crops are 
produced on pot grown trees under good manage¬ 
ment. 
The collection of Figs at Chiswick is unique, and 
includes many good and some indifferent varieties, 
amongst which may be discarded for home purposes, 
Brunswick, Negro Largo, Castle Kennedy (a shy 
bearer), and some of the very small-fruited varieties. 
A really first-rate variety is Pingo de Mel, one of 
the earliest and most certain bearing sorts, that very 
rarely casts its first crop, and, in my opinion, a more 
reliable variety than St. John’s. Another early and 
delicious variety is Trifer, followed by the exquisite 
Bourgassotte Grise, and Violette Sepor, Monaco 
Biano, Nebian, White Marseilles, etc. All of them 
are free bearers, grown either in pots or planted out. 
It is wonderful what fine crops are borne by trees in 
comparatively small pots, providing a judicious 
system of feeding is adopted. In fact, unless the 
trees are very large, big pots are a mistake, and 
a fruitful source of failure. The same applies to 
trees planted out, which will, if given a large root 
run, produce more wood and foliage than fruit; and 
there is always the danger of the trees casting what 
fruit there is through their excess of vigour. A 
moderate root run, made thoroughly firm, induces a 
short sturdy habit, that bears so much fruit that 
thinning must be practised to enable the trees to 
mature their crop. An excellent compost is made 
by good fibrous loam, with a little bone meal and 
old mortar or plaster refuse mixed with it. This en¬ 
sures porosity, and also provides an element re¬ 
quired by the trees. 
Perfect drainage is of the utmost importance, as 
bad or indifferent means of escape for the water 
means very poor results; for although the Fig 
rejoices in copious supplies of water while growing 
freely, no plant is more impatient of a stagnant or 
water-logged condition at the roots. This brings me 
to another point, namely, the care that ought to be 
exercised in watering Figs as they commence to 
grow. Unless watered carefully at this period, there 
is every prospect of the foliage assuming a yellow 
tinge, and an unhealthy appearance that will spoil 
the looks of the plants all the season, and probably 
be followed by poor crops not of the highest quality. 
Very much could be said on this very important 
subject of watering, not only Figs but most other 
orchard house trees ; but it will suffice to state that 
on the attention paid to this matter hangs, in a great 
measure, success or failure. 
While growing the Fig trees revel in plenty of 
heat and moisture, and that is one of the reasons 
why I mentioned that they do better in a house de¬ 
voted to them, as then no considerations for other 
plants have to be taken into account. As the young 
shoots progress and make, say, three or four leaves t 
I strongly suggest pinching out the point of the 
shoots, repeating the process as often as may be 
necessary during the season. This will often make 
barren trees bear well. When the fruit is about the 
size of a hazel nut feeding may commence, varying . 
‘he food as much as possible, and always diluting 
December 10, 1898. 
liquid or solid manure. Weak manure often given is 
far more effectual than seldom and strong. 
Pears and Apples. 
Pears and Apples are occasionally grown in the 
orchard house with varying success, and where the 
results are not very good the fault may usually be 
traced to unsuitable structures, or to a too close and 
moist atmosphere in the early stage of the tree's 
growth. Such a house as is usually devoted to Cherries 
or Apricots is best for both the Apple and Pear, 
as the conditions there are identical with their require¬ 
ments, namely, a cool and airy state from the time 
the trees are started until the fruit is swelling freely. 
Any attempt to force, in the usual sense of the word, 
is almost certain to defeat the grower’s object, by 
causing the flowers to fall or set very indifferently. 
In fact, we must follow Nature’s methods as far as 
possible to ensure success. Any steps taken in direct 
opposition to her laws are sure to prove wrong; 
therefore in starting Apples and Pears we should 
remember that a comparatively low temperature often 
exists at the blossoming period, say about 45 0 to 50°, 
and as the fruit sets and swells the temperature 
gradually increases to the usual summer heat; but 
it should not be forgotten that even with the higher 
temperature, there is also plenty of air moving about 
amongst the trees. 
Much could be said in favour of growing Pears 
under glass in our fickle climate, but it will suffice to 
state that such fruit acquires a colour and bloom 
never found on fruit grown in the open. Some go 
farther and state that the quality is superior, which 
I question. I need not enter into the subject of 
varieties, as that must depend on the owner’s taste. 
One gentleman might choose Pitmaston Duchess 
Pear for its size and appearance, while another would 
prefer high flavour, and select such sorts as Doyenne 
du Comice, or Thompson’s. The same applies to 
Apples in the same manner, as for instance Peasgood 
Nonsuch, and Cox’s Orange Pippin. 
The advice already given on stopping, as is the case 
of Plums or Peaches, is alike suitable for both the 
Apple and Pear ; but, as I think I stated before, no 
strictly hard and fast rule can or should be followed, 
as each one ought to be guided by the state of the 
trees or other conditions. 
So far I have dealt chiefly with houses devoted to 
one particular kind of fruit, but, as we know from 
practical experience, it is almost impossible in most 
gardens to find a house devoted to each of the kinds 
of fruit mentioned ; but really excellent results are 
produced by having a mixed orchard house, and 
growing all or most of the fruit together. For this 
purpose a light and well-ventilated house is desirable, 
and I should suggest that only sufficient hot-water 
piping be put in to exclude frost, or keep up the heat 
to a fair or proper height on very cold or blustering 
days in the early stages of the trees' growth. In such 
a house the trees could be grown either in pots 
or planted out. I have seen splendid crops of 
Cherries grown on cordon trees trained up the rafters, 
the back wall planted with Plums, Peaches and 
Nectarines, and Apples, Pears, Figs, and other fruit 
grown in pots in the body of the house. 
What I should object in such a house is growing 
Vines overhead. No matter how far apart they are 
trained, they always, in my opinion, exercise a bad 
influence on the trees underneath, and the gardener 
in his anxiety to do his best for the one, often injures 
the other. Therefore, keep the Vines in a house 
devoted to them, and do not strive to accomplish too 
much. 
I need scarcely refer to the importance of keeping 
the glass and the house clean, or the eradication of 
insect pests immediately they are discovered. One 
gardener of my acquaintance always fumigates his 
fruit houses (not vineries) every three weeks, whether 
insects are present or not, thereby making it 
certain that his trees will always be clean, and 
he certainly grows splendid fruit. I am afraid this 
is impossible in many gardens, as the expenses, 
though trifling, would be considered too great by 
employers. However, it is much to the owner’s 
interest to provide the means to fumigate the houses 
whenever necessary ; and if asked when it becomes ■ 
necessary, I should at once answer, immediately any 
insect foes are found, thus destroying them in their 
infancy, and before they can do any harm.— S. T. 
Wright. 
»■— 
Paper Manufactured from Seaweed is said- to be 
greatly on the increase in France. 
