December 31, 1898. THE GARDENING WORLD. 
the innumerable trees and shrubs which are continu¬ 
ally going out, but an idea of the grand quality 
supplied by the firm to customers may be easily 
gathered from the examples on view. Euonymuses 
are especially strong, also such Ligustrums as L. 
japonicum, L J. tricolor, L. macrophylla, L. Quhowi, 
L. ovalifolium, and Olearia Hastii. The Rhododen¬ 
drons sent up from the nursery at Milford are, both 
small and large, as thickly set with buds as 
Rhododendrons can well be, and in conjunction with 
Andromedas, Kalmias, etc., most unmistakably 
demonstrate the suitability of Milford soil for this 
class of plants. 
The special features of Mr. Russell's other nur¬ 
series at Richmond we shall have an opportunity of 
commenting upon in a subsequent issue. 
— ■! » 
COVENT GARDEN PHRASEOLOGY. 
The pronunciation of the botanical or scientific 
names of flowers was a stumbling-block to the average 
old-time gardener; and he has been made the butt of 
many jokes in consequence of his failure to do justice 
to this difficult and delicate subject. 
The youngerman,having greater educational advan¬ 
tages, is apt to be proud of his skill, and more ready to 
display his knowledge and volubility when oppor¬ 
tunity arises. The market man, however, has a very 
slight regard for proper names, and adopts a 
nomenclature peculiarly his own. Take a stroll 
through Covent Garden Market early on any market 
morniDg and any stickler for correct names will 
receive something of a shock. 
You may hear a gentleman of the ‘‘barrer’' 
persuasion ask a seller what he wants for that 
"Jenny.” First thoughts may suggest it is a 
moke he wants, but, no, it is Creeping Jenny. 
(Lysimachia Nummularia). How much for that 
" Not,” or them '■ Walls ” has reference to Forget-me- 
not and Wallflowers. " Jacks ” are known as a very 
vigorous looking Carnation root palmed off on the 
unwary as Cloves, and bitter disappointment awaits 
the cultivator. In the sprmg and early summer the 
demand for "Glories” and “Marechals” and 
" Generals ” would satisfy the most patriotic French¬ 
man. 
Wander into the French market, and here, where 
many foreign consignments are sold by auction, 
friction sometimes arises between two of the 
fraternity, and if the arguments are not put forth in 
polite, they are in forcible, language, embellished with 
many sanguinary adjectives. 
After listening to such a wordy storm one cannot 
help thinking that had their talents been directed into 
proper channels, what lecturers they would have 
made and with what ease could they have uttered 
the many-syllabled crack-jaw words to be found in a 
botanical text-book. 
Rigid economy is employed, two syllables must 
suffice, more often one, to denote a particular 
object. If I were to ask a stallholder whether he had 
any Souvenir de la Malmaison Carnations he would, 
if given to profanity, recommend me to go to very 
warm regions for them. If I asked for " Mals " I 
should be quickly supplied. “ Cars ” signify Carna¬ 
tions of the tree or common varieties, 11 Gyp ” is a 
not unpleasant sound and does duty for Gypsophila, 
either the annual or perennial species. " Paper 
Whites” and "Romans " are suggestive enough, 
likewise "Valleys,” now in abundance all the year 
round. 'Mums are abundantly represented by 
political names suggestive of olden times. "Lincolns,” 
"Cannings, ” ‘‘Selbornes,”are in great demand. These 
are a few specimens of Covent Garden nomenclature 
I have gathered during casual visits to that busy, 
bewildering, and withal instructive, market .—A .P. 
ROAD AND PATH MAKING. 
(Concluded from p. 268.) 
If there are any large trees (especially Elms) in the 
vicinity of the drain, socket pipes with cement joints 
should be used, to prevent the tree roots from pene¬ 
trating into the drains in search of moisture. It is 
also very essential to see that no cement is left inside 
the pipe. When making the joint a small hoe or 
mop should be used to wipe out each pipe after it is 
laid. Inattention to these details often necessitates 
tearing up the drains in the course of a few years, 
when it is found that in putting the pipes into the 
socket, the soft cement left inside has formed a hard 
ring. A few leaves or any other little obstruction is 
enough in such cases to soon block up the drain, and 
cause no end of trouble and annoyance, which could 
easily have been prevented by attention to trifles 
such as these. 
If the soil, taken out of the trench for the drain, 
has been well rammed in again, there should be very 
little left over. If it is allowed to be put in loosely 
it will subside in a few months, and leave a hole 
along the centre of the path. 
After the drain is in we can proceed to get out the 
soil from the path, the width, of course, being pegged 
out first, with stout pegs. Nine inches of soil should 
be taken from the sides and 7 in. from the centre, 
gradually sloping off the bottom to the 9 in. at the 
sides, for a path 8 ft. to 10 ft. wide, allowing 2 in. for 
the crown of the path. This would give 9 in. of 
road material all over the surface, 6 in. of which 
should be hard core. Broken brickbats are generally 
used for this purpose ; but burnt ballast, clinkers, 
or other hard substances can be used. In any case, 
it should be broken up and some finer ballast or 
cinders spread over the rough pieces, so as to fill up 
the crevices. Then roll it over several times till it 
gets a fairly even surface. The object of doing this is 
to save the gravel which is afterwards added, from 
being wasted in the crevices of the hard core ; but 
never put on any gravel until the hard core has been 
rolled. I have seen paths spoilt in that way. Three 
inches of gravel, properly put down, is often more 
serviceable than double the quantity among loose 
hard core. 
Sometimes it is advisable in narrow walks to give 
1 in. in 4 ft., instead of 1 in. in 5 ft., as a slope from 
the centre of the path to the sides; but avoid 
making it too rounded in appearance, as that makes 
a path look narrower Jhan it really is ; whereas, the 
object should be to make a path appear wider in the 
perspective than'is actually the case, as the wider 
the paths are, the bolder it makes a place look. It 
is far more economical to make a path well in the 
first instance, than it is to do it indifferently, and 
then to be continually mending and patching after¬ 
wards. A well made path will not require repairs 
for years; but a badly made one is continually 
needing attention, and then is unsatisfactory. 
In public places, where the wear and tear is great, 
repairs are more frequent and expensive than in 
private places. In some parts of the country it is 
very difficult to get a good binding gravel, and sub¬ 
stitutes have to be found. Of course, an ordinary 
crushed stone cannot be expected to bind together 
like gravel from Croydon, Hanwell, Ivor, and 
numerous other places from which splendid gravel 
is to be obtained ; but rough, bad paths are often 
found where the very best gravel has been used. 
The fault has been in the laying of it, and not 
enough use made of the roller to consolidate it. 
The proper way is to put it down in sections, well 
treadiDg and rolling each section as you go along, 
taking care to keep all the large stones at the 
bottom, so as to get a smooth, even surface on the 
top. Instead of an iron rake, use the back of a 
wooden one, with which to regulate the gravel, as 
this gives more of a glazed surface and keeps the 
stones under much better than the iron rake would 
do. The finer and smoother the surface is, the more 
comfortable the path will be. 
A rough stony surface can be very much improved 
by dusting it over with some marly sand, such as is 
often found between the layers of sand and gravel. 
If put on early in the season and well rolled it binds 
the loose stones together, and makes a firm walk. A 
more difficult sort of gravel to deal with is the one 
that has too much marl or clay in it, and which in 
wet weather gets converted into mud. The best 
way to remedy that is to give it a dressing of granite 
chippings, or shingles from washed sand. This also 
should be put on in wet weather, and well rolled in. 
A small quantity will go a long way in both cases. 
A simple remedy like the above, and a frequent use 
of the roller would convert many a rough path into a 
smooth, comfortable one. 
The very best gravel paths can easily be spoilt by 
bad treatment, such as turning it late in the season, 
or that which is almost as bad, the constant break¬ 
ing of the surface by hoeing, which is a great mis¬ 
take. Weeds can be kept under much more 
effectively by any of the numerous weed-killers, 
which are cheaper and better than tearing up the 
walks with a hoe. Of course, all strong chemicals, 
of which weed killers are made, must be used with 
care. For instance, it must not be allowed to touch 
the edges of turf, box, &c. When using weed-killers 
m 
it is a good plan to have a few pieces of thin 
boards to lay along the edges, moving them forwards 
as the work proceeds. 
The system of dressing gravel walks with crushed 
cockleshells is a very commendable one, but this 
material must not be put on thickly, or it will soon 
get converted into mud. Therefore, it is best to give 
a thin dressing of it, and add more if necessary. It 
used to be rather expensive, but it can be bought 
now as cheaply as gravel, say at 9s. 6d. per yard. 
In many town gardens and public places where 
the traffic is heavy and continuous, tar paving and 
aspbalte are used, as it has the advantage of being 
always clean. It is certainly very useful for small 
places, or on slopes where gravel would be rough, as 
the water would wash all the finer parts away, leav¬ 
ing the stones loose. In such places tar paving is a 
good thing to use, but it has too much of a town 
appearance. For a park or large garden gravel 
paths are certainly more pleasing to the eye than 
tar paved ones, which are much more expensive 
than gravel; but, where the traffic is too heavy for 
gravel, tar paving is the next best thing, and much 
more durable. In putting it down it is necessary to 
have a firm edging to work to. Where there is no 
kerb or wall to keep it firm a J in. to 1 in. wooden 
batten is used, to prevent decay. This should be 
coated with tar or creasote ; but before attempting to 
put down tar paving the ground must be prepared 
the same as for a gravel path. The tar paving is 
now supplied ready mixed, and should.be put down in 
the following proportions :—3 in. of coarse bottoming 
to 1 in. of fine topping. The former is made of stones 
about the size of a walnut. This should be rolled 
and levelled before adding the fine toppings (which 
is fine sifted stone prepared for the surface). Before 
rolling the toppings dust a little spar over it; then 
give a thoroughly good rolling with a heavy stone 
roller. If this cannot be procured, use a heavy iron 
one. The roller should be wetted occasionally, to 
prevent the tar adhering to it, but it is very 
essential that the whole of it be well rolled together, 
so as to consolidate it. 
So far we have only treated on gravel and tar 
paving, but in many places other paths have to be 
resorted to, especially where gravel is expensive. 
Therefore, it would not be used in the frame ground, 
yards, and various back places, which often have to 
be dressed with clinkers and ashes from the stoke¬ 
holes. This, of course, would only be used for 
economy, as the appearance and colour is very 
inferior compared with gravel, but let the materials 
be ever so inferior, they should be used to the best 
advantage, as the smoother a road or path is kept the 
less probability of the grass edges being damaged by 
people walking on them. 
Only those in charge of public parks or gardens 
know the difficulty of keeping the public off the grass 
edges. The best remedy to prevent this is to keep 
the roads and paths in a thoroughly efficient condi¬ 
tion ; then there will be less temptation for people to 
walk on the sides. It is only human nature to be as 
comfortable as we can. If the public finds the' 
paths rough and uncomfortable to walk on, people 
naturally go on to the grass, and no amount of 
" notices ” will prevent them. If the paths are in a 
rough condition, the residents in towns are so used 
to walk upon smooth pavements that they soon 
resent rough paths in parks and gardens ; therefore, 
an effort should be made to keep them in an efficient 
condition. To do this the following points should 
be remembered:—Make the road or path well to 
start with ; never disturb the surface, except when 
repairs are needed; roll on every opportunity, 
especially after rain ; and water as often as possible 
in hot weather.— W. B. Gingell. 
CLEFT-GRAFTING OF ROSES IN 
WINTER. 
On November 1st of each year Rose growers supply 
us with lists of their new Roses. The cost price of 
these novelties is rather great, and specialists who 
buy them are eager to multiply them in conserva¬ 
tories by special methods. As for the amateur who 
has neither conservatory nor special materials, and 
who is attracted by the real merit of a Rose or its 
grandiloquent name purchases a novelty, he has no 
means of multiplying it except by budding in the fol¬ 
lowing summer, a system which has many incon¬ 
veniences in this particular case. In fact, if a bud¬ 
ding-graft is made, that is to say, if the shield-graft is 
made to develop immediately, the Roses are delicate 
and soon die; the dormant shield-graft produces ex- 
