328 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
January 21, 1899 
Hints for JImateurs. 
Roman Hyacinths that have been forced into bloom 
in boxes instead of pots, io the usual fashion in 
piivate gardens, may be turned to good account for 
filling ornamental receptacles of various kinds in the 
drawing room. If ordinary care is taken of the roots 
the plants may be shifted without causing them any 
damage. It is not often that we see this shifting 
attempted—probably a great many amateurs are not 
aware that Hyacinths at this stage may be trans¬ 
planted. Cocoanut fibre should be used instead of 
soil, and it need not be thrown away after it has been 
once used, for it will serve a number of times, as long 
as it keeps sweet, in fact. 
Green Moss.—Many ladies are very fond of cover¬ 
ing the surface of the soil of the pot plants in dwell¬ 
ing rooms with green moss. This undoubtedly 
improves the appearance of the plants, but care must 
be taken to renew the me ss frequently, otherwise it is 
apt to cause a faint and unpleasant odour, which, 
combined with the strong scents of Freesias, 
Hyacinths, and other strong-smelling flowers, is both 
sickly and unhealthy in a living room. Strong 
perfumes are always to be avoided, for whilst on 
some people they exercise no effect at all they will 
make others quite ill The remedy is, of course, to 
keep strong-smelling flowers out of the living room ; 
but this advice will only be ignored in the majority 
of cases, and the only thing that remains is to 
see that the rooms are well ventilated. 
Ficus elastica.—Of foliage plants for the window 
this is a great favourite ; indeed, judging from the 
numbers seen, it is even in greater demand than the 
hardier and more easily grown Aspidistra. To tell 
the truth, the Indiarubber plant is rather an intract¬ 
able subject during the dull and cold months of the 
year, and very many people find that while they can 
keep their plants in good condition during the 
summer, with the greatest of ease, they either lose 
them entirely or the plants became very sickly during 
the winter. Strictly speaking, the Ficus likes rather 
more heat than it gets in the ordinary dwelling-rcom 
window, and, moreover, a steadier temperature. In 
cold weather we keep big fires going, and the atmos¬ 
phere becomes dry and arid, whilst during the night¬ 
time there is a big drop in the temperature. All of 
this is very trying experience to other plants beside 
the Ficus. To this is often added too much water, 
and this seems to complete the ruin of the plant. 
Occasionally some ill-advised persons attempt to 
coax their plants into health by giving them manurial 
stimulant. As well might one try to cure a dyspeptic 
by feeding him or her on mince pies, for in a 
weakened condition neither plant nor person is able 
to take rich food If any plants are observed to be 
looking sickly diminish the supply of water at the 
root. Do not give them any water until they are in 
need of it, and then give enough to soak the balls 
right through. The water must not be allowed to stand 
in the saucers. About once a week sponge the leaves 
over in order to remove any dust and dirt that may 
be present. If this is allowed to remain it chokes up 
the breathing pores and prevents the leaves from 
doing their work properly. 
Pleione Lagenaria.—The Pleiones or Indian 
Crocuses, as they are popularly called, are among 
the most handsome and easily grown of winter¬ 
flowering Orchids, and from the amateur's point cf 
view P. Lagenaria is the best of all the members of 
the genus, for it is exceptionally easy to grow ; it 
flowers freely, and is the most reasonable in price, 
although the flowers are large and beautifully 
marked. Its usual time of flowering is in late 
autumn and the early part of winter, although it may 
be hastened or retarded to some extent. Batches of 
plants may be so treated as to afford a succession the 
one to the other and thus keep up a display of bloom 
over a comparatively lengthy period. 
Indian Crocuses are much benefited by an annual 
re-potting. The best time to give this annual shift 
is just after flowering has ceased, when the young 
growths are beginning to push from the top and the 
young roots from the bottom. If, therefore, the 
plants have not been given their shift, no time should 
be lost in doing it, as there is a good deal of risk in 
disturbing them much when the root action is 
vigorous and advanced. 
Turn the plants out of the pots and pans in which 
they have been growing, and shake them out of the 
old soil. The old roots are, by this time, dead and 
of no further use. They may, therefore, be trimmed 
up; but do not cut too close to the base of the 
pseudobulb for fear of injuring the new roots that 
may be observed to be just showing their tips at the 
base of the pseudobulbs. Enough must be left of the 
old roots, moreover, to hold the plant in position in 
the fresh soil until the young roots have time to grow. 
The old pseudobulbs, that is, those formed the year 
before last, may be cut away; indeed, they are 
usually pretty far advanced in a state of decay by this 
time, so that nothing is sacrificed in getting rid of 
them entirely. 
The potting compost should consist of equal parts 
of fibrous peat and loam, with which may be mixed 
about a fifth part of the whole of chopped Sphagnum 
moss. Sharp sand, a little broken crocks, and a few 
pieces of charcoal may be added, and the whole 
mixed up well together. The pots or pans used must 
be quite clean and well drained. Large pans 
undoubtedly form very fine looking objects when the 
plants are in bloom, but they are not nearly so haDdy 
for ordinary purposes as small pans of fair depth. 
The compost must be packed firmly round the bases 
of the pseudobulbs, and when potting is completed 
the surface of the compost should rise above the rim 
of the pot towards the centre. Finish off by pricking 
in a few pieces of the tips of the live moss. 
The crucial point in the life of the plants is the few 
weeks immediately succeeding potting. Very little 
water must be given until both root action and top 
growth are vigorous. In most cases the want of 
success with Pleiones may be attributed to bad 
handling during the season. Once let the compcst 
get sour, as it very soon will do if overwatered, good¬ 
bye to the plants and their chances of doing any 
good. Another fruitful cause of failure is coddling. 
A high temperature is not required, for the plants 
are naturally found at high altitudes where they are 
occasionally subject to the action of frosts. At the 
time of starting into growth a warm greenhouse is 
quite hot enough for them, and afterwards they may 
be grown and flowered in an ordinary greenhouse 
amongst a miscellaneous collection of the subjects 
usually to be found in such a house. They should 
be given a position near the glass, such as that on a 
shelf or raised stage. Failing these, they do very 
well if suspended from the roof, the only need for 
special care in that case being to see that they are 
not allowed to lack water during the growing period. 
Rooted Chrysanthemum Cuttings.—As soon as 
the cuttings have rooted they should be taken out of 
the propagating frame and stood upon a shelf in the 
greenhouse. It may easily be seen when they are 
rooted by inverting the pot and giving it a gentle tap 
on the side of the stage, thus causing the ball to slip 
gently out into the band. If this is done cautiously 
the ball of soil may be returned to the pot unbroken, 
and the young plant will be none the worse. It is 
desirable to have the cuttings out of the propagating 
frame at an early date, for coddling in the first stages 
is a very bad way in which to commence the year. 
Moreover, by taking out the rooted cuttings from 
amongst the unrooted, the latter can be kept close 
and the production of roots expedited. 
Watering Mushroom Beds.—Although Mushroom 
beds do not, as a rule, require much water, there are 
occasions when a little is wanted. This is always 
the case in houses that are healed with hot-water 
pipes, and especially beds that are close to the pipes. 
Let the water be about 6o°Fahr. in temperature, and 
employ a fine rose can so that there may be no wash¬ 
ing up of grit upon any Mushrooms that may be 
present. Where clusters of “ buttons ” are observed 
to be coming through the soil do not water them 
overhead but go all round them. 
Damp in Cold Frames.—With so much moisture 
in the atmosphere, damp has been very busy of late 
in unheated frames. Leaves with naturally thin and 
soft tissues are the greatest sufferers, and such are 
sure to come off badly during the winter months. An 
effort must be made, however, to minimise the evil 
as far as possible by ventilating freely, and thus 
allowing a constant current of air to pass through the 
frames, by being exceedingly careful in the use of the 
watering pot, and last, but by no means least, 
preserving strict cleanliness. All affected haves 
should be picked off and removed, whilst now and 
again the plants should be taken out, and the ash 
bottom raked over with an iron rake. Keep all moss 
cleaned off the surface of the soil in the pots.— Rex. 
Correspondence. 
Questions asked by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening will be answered on this page. 
Anyone may give additional or more explanatory answets 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
"Amateurs' Page " on the top of their letters. 
Daphne Mezerenm as a Pot Plant.— Rob. : The 
culture in pots of this charming, early-flowering 
Daphne offers no difficulties. All that is wanted is 
to shelter it from the cold, and it will swell its buds 
and expand its flowers without the stimulus of fire- 
heat, so that you can have it in bloom by the middle 
of January. If you put the plant in heat you would 
probably find that it would drop all its bloom buds. 
Cedrus Deodara and C. atlantica — Geo. M.\ 
Neither of these two Cedars like the smoke of the 
town and the city, and are only to be seen at their 
best in the pure, free air of the country. Both may 
be seen growing in the suburbs of our large towns, 
however, and they do fairly well. The smoke- 
resisting qualities of the two species are about 
equal. 
Mulching Strawberries. — Anderson: Generally 
speaking it is never wrong to mulch Strawberries, for 
the plants are heavy feeders,and take a great deal out of 
the soil. In your case, however, the mulching may be 
unnecessary, and if you have any trouble in obtain¬ 
ing suitable material it will not matter if it is not 
done, especially if the plants have not yet got a good 
hold of the ground. We are assuming, of course, 
that the soil is good, and that the bed was made 
properly. If the soil is at all inclined to be poor 
we should certainly advise you to mulch at once, 
but use only short stable litter. If the plants are 
weak you may wait for another three weeks, and 
then give a good heavy mulching. You would then 
be able to employ fairly long litter. This wouldf be. 
come washed by subsequent rains, and would form a 
clean bed for the fruit to lie upon. 
Davallia canarienpis.— 0 . : The Hare's Foot Fern 
is so called from a fanciful resemblance that the 
rhizomes of the Fern have to the foot of a ha’re. 
The plant will do well in a cool house, although it 
will grow very freely in heat. In the latter case, 
however, although the fronds are produced with 
greater rapidity, and grow quicker than those of 
plants in a cool house, they are not so stout in 
texture, nor such a dark green in colour. 
Aspidistra Losing its Yariegation.— Y.: The 
phenomenon you mention of the variegated plant 
producing entirely green leaves is by no means an 
uncommon one, and it may be observed in the 
case of other subjects besides Aspidistras. When 
we remember that variegation is a form of disease 
that to a certain extent handicaps the plant in its 
struggle for life, it is only natural that the stronger a 
plant becomes the more is it inclined to throw off 
the obstructing variegation, and to revert to the 
normal green. This is probably what has happened 
in the case of your Aspidistra. 
Maidenhair Fern Fronds.— L. N. complains of 
the quickness with which the fronds ot Maidenhair 
Fern fade and wither after being cut, and asks if 
there is any way to prevent this. 
The most effectual plan is to cut the Fern a few 
hours before it is wanted for use, and to throw the 
fronds into a basin of cold water, so that they may 
be wetted all over. The fronds will last twice as 
long after this as they do when taken directly from 
the plant, and made up in the bouquets, sprays, or 
whatever else is required of them. 
Gumming in Apricots.— C. C. A.: It is often very 
difficult to assign a specific reason why a certain tree 
should " gum.” In your case the fact that you 
planted the tree in a border in loose, rich soil caused 
the tree to make a lot of gross growth. Some of 
these growths, having been injured in some way, 
gumming followed, for gross, sappy shoots are 
especially liable to the disease. The best remedy 
will be to lift the roots of the tree carefully, and 
work in some old mortar or lime rubble among the 
soil, or better still, remove the old soil, and re-place 
it by some more, to which rubble and wood ashes 
have been placed. Make the soil quite firm about 
the roots. You should lose no time in doing this, 
