March 18, 1893 
459 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
Shirley Poppy Seed.—Mr. Wilks observed that 
the seeds of these Poppies are becoming of a pale 
gray colour, instead of being nearly black, as was 
originally the case with the old type of the cultivated 
Papaver Rhoeas herring black anthers. 
Apple Graft Variation—Mr. Wilks showed 
samples of the Mannington’s Pearmain Apple sent 
by Mr. Peter Veitch, and taken from the original 
tree which supplied the fruit described by Dr. Hogg 
fifty years ago. It is a medium sized Apple, russet 
in appearance, and rugose with raised lines, though 
the sample has scarcely a trace of bright colouration, 
as stated in Hogg s description. The “ improved ” 
form was devoid of all roughness, and brightly 
Coloured with yellow and red. It is now widely 
distributed by grafting, and this improved form is 
the present recognised “ Mannington,” though 
widely different from the original type. Professor 
Bailey records an analogous case in America, in that 
since the original Newtown Pippin has been distri¬ 
buted over the United States, it has assumed various 
forms, specially characteristic of Apples growing in 
the different States, and even in Australia it has 
also acquired the character of a local Apple. 
TIE FLOWER QARSEN. 
Although the cold snap was severe enough while it 
lasted it has not done the damage that might have 
been feared, for everything was so dry that the frost 
did not take such a hold as it otherwise would have 
done. The east winds proved rather trying to tender 
shrubs and alpine plants, and some of the latter 
began to show signs of shrivelling, more, perhaps, 
from the drought than the cold. A little tain, how¬ 
ever, has put everything about right. 
Roses. —These were so very forward when the 
frost came that it is not to be surprised that they got 
nipped a bit; more especially the standard and half 
standard H.P’s. The pruning of the H P’s., the 
Bourbons, and those of the Noisettes with the most 
vigorous constitutions, should be pushed forward. 
Bush plants of free or even moderately strong-grow¬ 
ing varieties, should be cut rather hard back ; the 
securing of a good eye is the main thing. Attend to 
Roses on walls, and get these pruned, and nailed or 
tied, as the case may be, without delay. Far too 
often wall Roses are scamped or left in the hands of 
inexperienced lads to cut away at random, or leave 
in too much, with the result that the trees become a 
mass of interlacing branches with lots of dead and 
worn out wood that has no business there at all. It 
should be remembered that the most cannot possibly 
be got out of trees in this way. The job of tackling 
a few trees that have been thus neglected is anything 
but an easy one, and there is generally nothing for it 
but to unloose the whole of the branches, although 
this is better performed by degrees so as to avoid 
twisting the heavier branches. 
The Grass.—I never remember to have seen a 
spring when the grass was fresher and greener than 
it is this year. Growth, although naturally slow, 
has been going on practically all the winter. Get 
the heavy rollers to work on all lawns so as to get 
rid of bumps and inequalities, and thus render easier 
the work of the mowing machine when the time 
comes. Although the spell of frost put a stop to turf 
laying for a time, as it was impossible to work with 
the frost in the soil, conditions are favourable now, 
and this class of work should be got out of hand at 
an early date so as to give the newly laid turf the 
benefit of all the April showers. 
Border Carnations. —A last sprinkle of soot may 
be given the plots which it is intended to fill with 
Carnations, and this followed by a good forking up 
will put the quarters in readiness for the plants. 
Choose a fine day, and get the plants out of their 
pots, for with their cramped root-run they are losing 
ground every day now and will do until they are 
finally consigned to the open. 
Coverings. —In most gardens there are a few 
subjects that it is attempted to keep outdoors all the 
winter by means of coverings of various sorts. 
Generally speaking, all such coverings may now be 
removed at convenient moments, at least, as far as 
the South of England is concerned. In the Midlands 
and the North it will be advisable to wait until nearly 
the end of the month, but in this matter every 
gardener must take into account his own locality and 
act accordingly. 
The Herbaceous Border. —With the soil in fine 
workable condition, the present is a capital time to 
regulate the arrangement of the occupants of the 
herbaceous border. There are many subjects that 
once planted will look after themselves, perhaps, 
rather too well, and encroach upon the space which, 
of right, belongs to other weaker but still beautiful 
plants. After lifting, division, and replanting are 
seen to, a good dressing of short, well-rotted stable 
manure should be forked in, breaking the surface all 
nicely up, and leaving it level and ship-shape. 
Particular plots that are to be filled with plants 
requiring very rich feeding may be specially attended 
to, for it is not a good practice to put in a lot of raw 
manure immediately before the plants are put in. 
Let all labels be put in their proper places, and new 
ones furnished where these are necessary. Spring 
digging and re-arrangement of herbaceous borders is 
very frequently practised in preference to autumn 
work, for the frost naturally penetrates deeper where 
the soil is thrown up loosely, and the roots of tender 
things suffer; and, again, herbaceous borders not 
infrequently have a wall at the back of them, and if 
the gardener is anything of an artist this 
wall will be covered with climbers of various 
sorts, and these have to be pruned and nailed in 
spring, which operations necessitate a good deal of 
trampling on the border and render it waste of time 
to do any digging until the wall plants are put to 
rights. 
Chinese Paeonies. —Although late planting is not 
to be recommended these charming flowers may be 
planted right up to the end of March. In intro¬ 
ducing them into the mixed border do not put them 
away at the back, where half their beauty will 
be lost, but bring them more to the front where, if 
planted iD bold and conspicuous clumps, they will 
show up to the best advantage. Do not lose sight of 
the single forms when making a selection, for they 
are equally as fine as the doubles, and they have the 
merit of not being quite so heavy. Any good garden 
soil will suit Paeonies: but in a season of drought, 
such as that of 1898, they like good holding soil 
with plenty of food and moisture. 
Gladioli. —No garden could be complete without 
some representatives of the wonderful modern races 
of Gladioli. Generally speaking, March is the 
month to plant the corms; and cultivators, the 
country over, are looking up their stock and 
planning how they are to dispose of it to the best 
advantage. It is not advisable to plant all the corms 
at once, for by making two or three turns of it and 
choosing a variety of situations, a succession of 
bloom may be obtained that will last right up to the 
advent of frosts. The sites upon which it is proposed 
to plant Gladioli, require the heavy manuring and 
digging to be done in autumn. Now all that is 
necessary is to fork over and break up the lumps, 
and then planting may be commenced. Bury the 
corms about 3 in. deep and allow from 10 in. to 1 ft. 
space between them. Keep the remainder of the 
stock cool and dry, and dispose of them by planting 
batches, with a fortnight’s interval between, from 
now until the end of May.— A. S G. 
Kltcflen Garden Calendar. 
The favourable weather of late has enabled us to 
push on with all outdoor operations, the ground 
being in capital working order for seed sowing and 
planting. Most of the early crops have been got in. 
We do cot make a practice of planting the main crop 
Potatos till about the middle of the next month, as 
they are apt to get cut down by the late frosts; and 
when this happens the crop is never so good as when 
the haulm grows unchecked from the commence¬ 
ment. The early ones, however, may now be put in ; 
but even these will need some protection later on 
should there be signs of frost when growth has 
appeared through the soil, or instead of being 
forward they will in all probability be backward. 
Owing to the mild winter Globe Artichokes are 
forward, but do not be led away by the idea that 
because there is an abundance of young growths 
there will be a corresponding plentiful supply of fine 
heads. This vegetable needs special cultivation if 
those fleshy globes are to be produced. I would, 
therefore, advise planting a portion of the suckers on 
a well prepared piece of ground. These will not 
turn in quite so soon as the old stools, but will give 
far finer results. The soil ought to be removed from 
those intended to remain, and after thinning out the 
growths fill in the holes with a rich compost consist¬ 
ing of thoroughly decayed manure, such as old 
Mushroom beds, mixed with some fresh loam. 
Asparagus beds must now receive attention. 
After removing any weeds that may have made their 
appearance, loosen the surface a little to admit sun 
and air. Growers differ in their treatment of 
Asparagus beds, some preferring the French method, 
while others that of the English. The former 
consists of blanching the growths for the greater 
portion of their length, which is accomplished by 
earthing up the beds, that they may have a greater 
distance to push through the soil. In my opinion 
t his is not the most economical method of cultivation, 
as it is only the small green tips that are eatable, the 
other portion being tough and worthless. When the 
growths are allowed to push from 4 in. to 5 in. 
through the soil, and then cut off an inch or so below 
the surface, there is but little waste. The flavour is 
also far superior and delicate to that grown on the 
French principle. Moreover, there being a greater 
bulk of the edible portion, a less quantity will suffice 
for a dish. When the surface of the soil has beeD 
loosened, give a top dressing of some kind of potash 
manure. Kainit, salt, sulphate of potash, fish 
manure, and the like are all good fertilisers. It is 
not necessary at present to apply water, as the 
ground is sufficiently moist; and watering would 
only tend to lower the temperature of the soil. 
Pits and Frames will now be fully occupied with 
various kinds of vegetables, either in hardening them 
off previous to planting out, or for pushing them for¬ 
ward. It is a great mistake to attempt planting 
anything out direct from either a heated structure or 
from under glass of any kind, unless previously well 
hardened off; and this can only be done by exposing 
the plants to the full influence of the external atmos¬ 
phere on all favourable occasions. Plants that are 
perfectly hardy in themselves when grown naturally, 
are rendered somewhat tender by being grown under 
glass; therefore this must be counterbalanced by the 
action of the air before attempting to plant them out. 
Better by far defer planting a week or so than to run 
any risk. 
Heated Pits and Hotbeds will now demand 
special attention, for as the sun gains more power 
the temperature runs up quickly ; and as but few 
vegetables will withstand a close atmosphere every 
care must be given to ventilation. Potatos can have 
the lights raised a little both top and bottom when the 
sun is bright, so long as the temperature does not 
fall below 70°. French Beans will need more water, 
particularly those grown in pots, and a sharp lookout 
must be had for red spider. Carrots, Turnips, 
Radishes, Lettuce, etc., on hotbeds may have the 
lights removed when the weather is fine and warm ; 
but wheD cold winds prevail, see that air is admitted 
in the opposite direction to that from which the wind 
is blowing. Continue to make small sowings of 
salads as the others become ready for use, that there 
be no blanks.— K. G. 
- » I «- 
CALCEOLARIA BURBIDGEI. 
Considerable use is made at Kew of this distinct 
and handsome hybrid Calceolaria, and visitors to the 
popular “ Number IV.” there are always much taken 
with it. The plant is named after Mr. F. W. 
Burbidge, of Trinity College Botanic Gardens, 
Dublin, who obtained it by crossing C. Pavonii, and 
C. fuchsiaefolia. At Kew, the plant is treated 
liberally, and grown in large pots in rich and 
substantial compost. The result is that it develops 
into huge specimens which, although straggling in 
habit, are not unpleasingly so, as they form a break¬ 
away from the painfully rigid plants which appear in 
such force in the conservatory during the dull months 
of the year. Young plants, if allowed to grow on 
with little or no stopping, soon adopt this character¬ 
istic freedom of habit; but it is best seen in large 
and older specimens. Flowers are produced very 
freely from about the end of November until well into 
the spring, and very striking and effective they are 
with their rich yellow hue and their large, much 
inflated, pouch-like lip. No gardener who has to keep 
a large conservatory supplied with flower the year 
round can afford to despise this Calceolaria, and the 
easiness of its culture recommends it as much to the 
grower as its beauty does to the mere lover of the 
beautiful. 
