April 15, 1899. 
the gardening world 
523 
FREESIAS. 
These delightful flowers have now enjoyed a popu¬ 
larity of nearly twenty years' standing, yet every 
year as they come into bloom again they are regarded 
with the same fiesh appreciation. They have also 
become firmly established in America, where the 
numerous colour variations have given rise to many 
names over and above those usually employed here. 
Mr. F. A. Waugh, of the Vermont Experiment 
Station, has been giving the Freesias his close atten¬ 
tion, recording his experiences in Gardening 
(American). He regards the typical Freesia refracta 
as having a strong tendency to a yellow colour, and 
that F. r. alba is a selection from it, with white 
flowers, or nearly so, according to the care that has 
been exercised in making the selection. There is 
always a certain percentage of yellow, he says, even 
in the finest strains. In different lots of bulbs it 
would seem that the percentage having more or less 
yellow in them varies from two to fifty, though the 
usual run is from five to ten per cent. 
We are surprised that so many names should be 
found in circulation. Mr. Waugh believes that there 
is only one species with variations in colour, and we 
agree with him entirely. The botanist Klatt, who 
named and described F. refracta, is also responsible 
for such names as F. Leichtlini and F. xanthospila, 
both of the latter having more or less yellow in their 
flowers, the colour taking the form of blotches in F. 
xanthospila. There is no constancy in these colours 
either from collected bulbs or from seeds,so that at best 
the plants bearing those names, even when true, can 
only take rank as varieties. The white varieties are 
the most valuable in the cut state, according to the 
modern tendency of the com mercial spirit in flowers. 
F. xanthospica is said to be a more careful selection 
of F. r. alba, whereby only the purest white flowers 
have been selected and retained. That being so, the 
name is unfortunate, for xanthospica means yellow 
spike. A very good strain of F. refracta alba comes 
from Guernsey, where the bulbs have been cultivated 
in the borders of vineries for many years, young 
stock being obtained from the offsets of the old 
bulbs. 
Freesias are also grown largely in the South of 
France, Italy, the Bermudas, and in California. The 
reason for so many yellow flowers amongst what 
should be white is a question that has not yet been 
settled, but, possibly, as has already been hinted, 
many of them may be cases of reversion to the 
original type. Flowers from bulbs grown in Cali¬ 
fornia are said to contain a greater percentage of 
yellow varieties than those from European stocks. 
A Californian correspondent almost admits the truth 
of the statement to Mr. Waugh, and suggests that 
the strong sunlight enjoyed by that state must be 
held responsible for the greater percentage of yellow 
flowers coming from thence. One of his former 
students confirms this by an experiment proving that 
the yellow colour is developed under the oxidising 
influence of sunlight. Mr. Waugh also thinks that 
yellow flowers are correlated with the stronger 
growth of the plants, the more vigorous of the latter 
having darker foliage and more of the sulphur- 
yellow of the type in the flowers. While that may 
be so, the vigour of the plants in the suburbs of 
London does not influence the colour; but our 
smoky, foggy atmosphere may be held accountable 
for the lack of the undesirable colour. 
Mr. E. D. Darlington, of the Burpee trial grounds, 
and the Sunset Seed and Plant Co., of California, 
rogue their beds carefully and systematically, yet 
they are unable to maintain the purity of their 
flowers. MM. Damman & Co., of Naples, Italy, 
commenced many years ago to get up a stock of 
bulbs giving pure white flowers, by selecting and 
planting only those with pure white flowers ; and this * 
seems the most reliable method of putting the matter 
fully .to the test. Once a stock is obtained of the 
pure white strain, offsets from the old bulbs ought to 
come true to name. If this method fails, then 
assuredly there is something in the sunshine of 
California and elsewhere that causes the flowers Jo 
revert to an ancestral state. Herr Max Leichtlin, of 
Baden-Baden, thinks that careful selection would 
keep the types pure, but then his climatic experiences 
are European like our own. 
Some doubts have been expressed whether it is 
desirable or practicable to retain pure white strains, 
Mr. Waugh thinks it is, provided it can be done 
without too great additional expense. Mr. J. C. 
Vaughan strikes a true chord when he says that 
" there should be a future for selected strains of 
Freesias; certainly for (i) an extra large pure white 
flower ; (2) a good pure yellow flower.” In discuss¬ 
ing the commercial value of a pure white strain Mr. 
Waugh, we think, dwells too much on the extra 
value measured by the “almighty dollar.” By all 
means let us have decided colours whatever the cost 
to begin with. The increased sale of Freesias, in 
Britain at least, would repay the trouble of establish¬ 
ing strains such as Mr. Vaughan mentions. 
An illustration of six flowers in Gardening 
(American) shows the reversion of a pure white 
flower to the yellow Leichtlin Freesia ranging from 
No. 1 to No. 6 ; and conversely from No. 6 to No. 1 
we have the evolution of Freesia refracta alba. 
KitcHen Garden calendar. 
Peas will now be growing rapidly, and will therefore 
need the sticks being put to them as soon as they 
are well through the soil. Other sowings should be 
made about every fortnight to keep up a succession, 
as, during the hot weather in summer, the seed soon 
becomes old and tough. Sow none but the finest 
marrow varieties, as such will give the greatest satis¬ 
faction. Where the soil is thin and of poor quality, 
it will be found advantageous to take out trenches 
and fill in with a compost of a more retentive nature. 
Peas do best in solid ground ; for this reason, where 
it is of a light nature, make the soil firm previous to 
sowing. Plant out all vegetables such as Onions and 
Cauliflower, which have been brought forward under 
glass; the soil being now somewhat warmed, root- 
action will soon take place. 
Celery plants should be pricked out on slight hot¬ 
beds, or in frames where they can be offered the 
protection of lights, until such times as the weather 
gets warmer. A portion of the early batch, if re¬ 
quired for exhibition purposes at the end of the sum- 
mmer, should be planted in small pots, and after¬ 
wards stood on a slight hotbed until well rooted, by 
which time it will be safe to transfer the plants to 
the trenches. A sowing for a late batch should now 
be made on a piece of rich ground. The plants will 
grow away rapidly when once well through the soil, 
and will be ready for transplanting by the middle of 
July. 
Potato planting will now be general, and the 
sooner, after this date, the tubers are got into the 
soil, the better. Avoid working on stiff land when 
too wet, otherwise much after-trouble will be caused 
by its being bound together. 
Many of the early crops will soon require thin¬ 
ning, and this should receive attention before the 
plants become over-crowded. Carrots, Turnips, and 
all root crops are best thinned when small, that the 
foliage may be sturdy from the commencement. The 
main crop of Beet, Salsafy, and Scorzonera may now 
be sown in all but the most southern portions of the 
kingdom, here it had better be deferred for another 
fortnight, as the roots are apt to become coarse when 
sowing takes place too early. Asparagus will soon 
be making its appearance through the soil ; 
to encourage a free growth give the beds a 
dressing of some kind of artificial manure con¬ 
taining a liberal amount of potash. It will not be 
necessary to water at present, as this would only 
lower the temperature of the soil, and check growth, 
instead of promoting it. In warm districts in the 
south, a sowing of dwarf Beans may be made at the 
foot of a south wall. These, should there be no 
severe frost,will be found very serviceable after those 
grown under glass are over. 
Look well after all vegetables growing in pits and 
frames, as these will now require more air and 
greater supplies of water. French Beans soon 
suffer if allowed to become dry at the roots, and red 
spider plays sad havoc with the foliage and pods in a 
dry, close atmosphere. Liberal supplies of water 
will, therefore, be needed where the plants are grow¬ 
ing in pots placed on shelves. 
Cucumbers on hot-beds should now be making 
good progress, for the heat of the sun, together 
with that generated by the fermenting material will 
be sufficient to maintain a high temperature both 
day and night. To assist the latter close the venti¬ 
lators early, so as to husband the heat on sunny 
days, and avoid putting on too much air or damping 
down when the weather is dull and cold. As the 
plants ptogress stop the shoots at every second joint 
which will cause them to fruit more freely. 
Make a sowing of Vegetable Marrow seed, which 
should be placed in a gentle heat till the young 
plants appear, after which they should be potted off 
singly, and kept growing under glass till it is safe to 
expose them in the open. Continue to make small 
sowings of such things as Mustard, Cress, and 
Chervil, also Radishes and Onions for salads. Plant 
out Lettuce as the plants become large enough, and 
make other sowings to succeed those already large 
enough for planting, so that there may be no blanks. 
Run the hoe through growing crops to keep down 
small weeds, and loosen the surface of the soil so as 
to admit the air and rain .—Kitchen Gardener. 
Stoking. —With the very unsettled weather at pre¬ 
sent around us, stoking and ventilating become, each 
of them, a science. With regard to stoking we are 
safest while the probability of sudden storms—types 
of which have been troubling us for three weeks 
back is yet present, to keep a body of live-fire in 
the furnace or furnaces so as to start the boilers 
quickly. 
Ventilating at this period requires great watch¬ 
fulness and skill. In all the warm houses very little 
air need as yet be admitted, and that only between 
11 o’clock a.m. and 2 in the afternoon. 
Shading by blinds also exacts attention. If the 
day be a very blinky one, that is, with much cloud 
and sun-blinks, it is almost the only plan to leave the 
blinds constantly down, especially over Phalaenopses, 
Cattleyas, and Ferns. 
The Stove. 
The above remarks on shading and ventilating must 
be adopted according to circumstances and personal 
judgment. 
Watering in the stove requires some experience at 
this time, when the plants are but taking hold of 
their new soil. By a free use of the syringe in the 
morning and afternoon of bright days, or by heavy 
dampings on dull days, the need for watering is 
greatly lessened. Do not water young stocks too 
lavishly, and only use tepid water. Old established 
specimens, which have not been top-dressed recently, 
are benefited by weak liquid manure. 
Keep the plants clean by frequently sponging or 
using a brush with methylated spirits for bug and 
scale, and syringing with clear or, if need be, weak 
paraffin, and soft soap solution, much diluted, for 
red spider. 
Eucharis, Hymenocallis, and Pancratiums are 
growing fast, and must have nourishment. 
Leggy Crotons and Dracaenas should either be 
notched and mossed, or if not too large cut dowD and 
struck as cuttings in a warm close case. 
Edging plants, as Panicum variegatum, Trades- 
cantia tricolor, and we use Asparagus Sprengeri, can 
still be raised by cuttings; 
Conservatory. j,ec 
Cyclamen should now be removed to some cool odd 
house and have water gradually withheld from them 
if ripened corms for next year are wanted. All other 
forced bulbs and plants should be carefully treated 
and ripened for planting outdoors or using in the 
case of Azaleas, Deutzias, Staphyleas, Guelder 
Roses, &c., next spring. Callas in flower, but more 
so those throwing up spathes, should have feeding. 
Acacias and all the host of brilliant hard-wooded 
plants, together with Cinerarias, Primulas. 
Schizanthus, &c., among the soft stuff ought to be 
shaded from strong sun, and the water supply should 
be only enough to keep them erect. 
Pits and Frames. 
Young Cyclamen may now be potted into 5-in. pots 
and placed in a warm frame (65°). It is well to have 
the conservatory thoroughly cleaned and rearranged 
at this time. Pot on all young stock before it 
suffers. 
Carnations in pits should be dipped in a warm 
solution of half a wineglassful of Fir-tree oil, 4 ozs. of 
soft soap, and six gallons of water. Pot up, afresh, 
old plants of Campanula pyramidalis. Allow young 
Chrysanthemums full light and air. Cucumbers, 
Melons and Tomatos may have their laterals pinched 
and be otherwise thinned whenever they fill the space 
allowed them. Shade the Cucumbers on bright 
days.— J. H. D. 
