552 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
April 29, 1899. 
INTS FOR MMATEURS. 
Hardy Fruits.—The meteorological conditions for 
the past ten days in the South of England and 
about London have been better than what we had a 
short while before. The air is thick, damp, and 
chilly, though, for the days of a dying April. In the 
hardy fruit gardens, however, things are developing, 
even if slowly. In those parts which suffered loss 
of fruit blossom early this month the trees which 
were thus crippled should now be looked over for the 
purpose of loosening the shoots where a fruit may 
have escaped, a condition which implies that it must 
have been protected by some neighbouring influence, 
and now that we hope to have passed danger from 
such a cause, the fruits should be made free from 
deterring agencies. 
Apricots and Peaches on walls which have set a 
fair quantity of fruits may also be looked over, and 
where thick crops have set thinning must be done. 
In the disbudding of the young shoots keep in view 
the remarks we made a few weeks back when 
speaking of this work, which, summing them up, 
direct the operator to retain or secure a good central 
furnishing of young shoots to his trees; to have a 
young shoot at the base of every fruiting shoot, and 
to cut out these fruiting twigs when once they have 
been relieved from their load, also to cut back long 
branchlets, the half of whose length is devoid of bud 
or leaf or fruit. Lay in young successional fruiting 
wood, but attach it somewhat lcosely, for we like to 
see the wood which we are trusting on for our 
further fruit swinging free to every breeze that 
blows, and storing within itself the goodness lent by 
sun and air and dew. Cut off the too strong shoots 
which Apricot trees are prone to make, for if they 
are left an unequal surge of sap is drawn up by and 
around them. If we only had three weeks thoroughly 
•sunny weather our borders would be beautifully 
warmed, and then, but we say not till then, we 
should be busy applying a nourishing and moisture- 
conserving mulch. In the arid days of summer, too, 
this mulching keeps the roots so cool, and being cool, 
we conclude, they are working unfluctuatingly. 
Primroses and Auriculas. —He or she without a 
love for the shyly peeping, bright purity of our 
commonest of wee garden Primroses and *' Dusty 
Millers” has alienated him or herself from our 
regard, and we who do love them are now moving 
forth with laughing hearts and contented minds, for 
our twelve months' patience is now being repaid. 
It comes to us now though to mind next year. Our 
old plants must depart to make room for fresher 
stock, and at this time, or very soon, these members 
who are to prolong our plants' history shall be put 
in their forebears' shoes, metaphorically speaking. 
Both classes of plants must have a mediumly rich 
soil, and do not suffer them to lack moisture. Incor¬ 
porate wood-ashes, crushed charcoal, fine mushroom 
dung and Beech leaf mould to your beds and if 
the soil be a bit heavy let the dressing be liberal. 
The plantlets which are at present in boxes or 
frames or in sheltered open-air corners should be 
firmly planted and not deeper than to the base of 
the lower leaves, giving each nearly £ ft. of clear 
space either way. Beds of 3 ft. width may be made 
to contain six rows, keeping the edging lines id, 5 in. 
This we know only allows for a 5-in. space between 
each, but the plantlets in the row may be wider 
apart. For beds which are still vigorous make up a 
rich but suitable topdressing and after having 
loosened the surface soil between the lines, spread on 
the dressing and firm it, afterwards water it with a 
rosed water-can. Unless seeds are to be saved cut 
off the blooms as they begin to fade. 
Yiolets.- Only those who have had a varied ex¬ 
perience in the culture of sweet Violets know the 
difficulties under which many growers labour. 
Where the air is absolutely pure and clear a mighty 
pestilence is absent and provided other things are 
right, one's Violets may be expected to thrive. 
If, however, the air is tainted, or but slightly 
impregnated with a deleterious gas—as sulphur fumes 
from brick factories and the deposits left from 
paraffin oil works and coal pits’ smoke—there is 
often very great trouble in getting Violets to do any 
good. We are now preparing our stock for next 
season. They must be taken early and allowed a 
long, undisturbed growing season. Take those young 
runners which have rooted nicely, sever them from 
the parent plant and lifting it with a ball of soil, 
transplant it in the bed or border you shall have 
prepared for it. The best that ever we had were 
grown year after year in the same long bed, among 
the same soil too, except that we had to add some 
fresh turfy loam and a sprinkling of old mortar 
They annually were partially shaded by trees and 
when once put in, never were touched except when 
weeds had established a sound footing and were 
contesting for the sovereignty of the bed. 
In September we had the brick frames filled to within 
half a foot of the sashes with fermented manure and 
half-decayed leaves. This, of course, sank more 
than a foot, whence we filled in our soil. We 
are not exact to an ounce in adding so much leaf 
mould to so much loam, but we endeavour to pro¬ 
vide an acceptable staple for all that. Give, say, 
three-fifths loam—it need not be new, old Chrysan¬ 
themum soil and virgin fibry loam mixed will 
answer—and one-fifth spent Mushroom-bed duDg, 
the remainder being good, rough sand and lime 
rubble. Raise it to within 8 in. of the top, and 
plant out sturdy Violets. Ten or twelve inches 
either way is what we allowed, and the plants are 
sunk to their radical leaves. Keep the lights on for 
four or five days, and shade them. Then until the 
nights become chilly all protection may be dispensed 
with. Supply them regularly with water, and be 
alert to notice greenfly or other pest. During 
winter air them whenever it is safe, which means 
when frost and cutting winds are absent. Pluck off 
decaying leaves, and keep the runner pinched until 
seven or eight weeks before young stock is wanted. 
Neapolitan is one of the very best doubles. Monte 
Carlo thrives wonderfully in a bad atmosphere. De 
Parme can also be relied on for a free bloomer. 
Ferns.—To those who would raise a stock of the 
less exacting species of Ferns now is the season 
when tidy young fernlets may be had in abundance. 
In and around London most beautiful specimens are 
literally given away, and the verdict of the vendors, 
" dirt cheap ! ” is the truest exclamation uttered by 
any of the metropolitan millions. Plants of three 
and four months' growth are sold for a penny or 
twopence. Well, let us pot up those sporlets, or we 
shall take them from that stage when they are able 
to “ find for themselves." 
A peaty soil is advocated, and this may be used, 
but fibrous loam of a soft open nature,plus the addition 
of crushed charcoal and coarse silver or sea-shore 
sand, will provide a genial rooting material. Do 
not pot very firmly, and though watering does not 
exact the highest skill, still very great results follow 
from careful and regular attention. Use soft rain 
water for the purpose, and unless for an occasional 
dewing of such species as Pterises and Polypodiums 
we do not employ the syringe Shade to a certain ex¬ 
tent is necessary, but not always to the extent so 
frequently pronounced. We mention this as a hint 
■to those who from necessity have unconditionally to 
accept Sun or shade. 
The temperature found most pleasing to the 
Pteris, Adiantum, and Polypodiums’ exaction ranges 
between 55 0 and 65° of Fahr. scale. We greatly 
admire those simple yet most highly artistic em¬ 
bellishments to window-recesses—the Fern cases. 
When they are not deluged by continual dribblings 
they are as simple to manage as Vegetable Marrows 
are when placed on a large, sunny dung heap. The 
secrets in Fern-case and miniature aquarium treat¬ 
ment are to keep them close without stagnation, 
moist, but not saturated—we speak in regard to the 
rock work and its drapery in the aquariums—and to 
have a fibrous, open peat soil for the Ferns and 
other plants to grow in. 
The following species of Ferns are suitable for 
closed cases :—The Parsley Fern (Allosoruscrispus); 
The Wall Spleenwort (Asplenium Trichomanes); 
The Hart's Tongue (Scolopendrium vulgare) ; 
Asplenium viviparum and The Killarney Fern 
(Trichomanes radicans); &c. As pot plants— 
Pteris cretica, P. c. major, P. serrulata cristata, and 
P. s. c. major, P. argyrea, P. tremula, and P. Wim- 
setti; Crytomium falcatum—The Holly Fern, 
Adiantum Capillus-Veneris, A. cuneatum, &e. 
Polystichum angulare—suitable for a hanging-pot, 
Asplenium bulbiferum, Phlebodium aureum, and 
some others.— Beacon. 
— —— a » 
A Rosebush in Stuttgart covers an area of 230 
sq. ft 
Correspondence. 
Questions asked by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening will be answered on this page. 
A nyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
"Amateurs' Page " on the top of their letters. 
Forget-me-not for Spring Bedding. — A. Robson : 
The species most generally used for this purpose is 
Myosotis sylvatica, and occasionally its white variety, 
M. s. alba. Another one is M. dissitiflora, which 
succeeds well in some gardens, but it does not 
continue in bloom for any great length of time. There 
are now several very pretty varieties of M. alpestris 
in cultivation, and used in spring bedding. All may 
be raised from seeds sown about the end of July. 
Grubs Eating Delphinium Stems. — Ward: Slugs, 
as well as grubs, may be at work in cutting the ten¬ 
der young stems just below the surface of the soil. 
They are particularly fond of the young growths as 
well as the foliage of Delphiniums. By carefully re¬ 
moving the soil round the shoots you may be able to 
find the marauders at work. After searching for all 
the slugs and wireworm you can find, replace the 
soil again, making it firm about the plants. Wire- 
worm may be trapped by burying pieces of Potato 
in the ground about or in the vicinity of the plants. 
By pushing the Potatos on to the end of sticks, left 
with their ends out of the ground, you can readily 
find the Potatos, so that you can examine and replace 
them. 
Cutting Asparagus.— Sims : You should cut the 
shoots as low as you can without injuring the crown 
of the plant, as the portion left would be of no 
further use to the plant, but decays iD the soil. 
Usually.however.it is not of much service at the 
table, owing to its fibrous and j woody character. 
The principal point is to be careful of the crowns of 
the plant, as many shoots should yet make their 
appearance from the stools this season. 
Peas in Light Soil— J. M. W.: You can remedy 
the evil of light soil by taking out a trench about 
12 in. deep, and digging some good manure into the 
bottom. Cover the manure and sow the Peas along 
the trench at a deeper level than usual, but do not 
cover them more deeply than they should be. The 
object is to leave the ground somewhat hollow 
along the line of Peas, while the centre between the 
rows is left high. This will cause the rain and what 
water you give them during summer to run into the 
trenches. 
Pear Flowers Frosted. — H. W. : If the style in 
the centre is black you may take it for granted that 
the flowers are of no further service. Some of them 
may be safe, however, because frost only affects the 
flowers that are fully expanded, unless all the more 
severe. As a rule, some of the flowers on a tree 
always expand later than the rest, so that, possibly, 
a good percentage of them escaped the frost of the 
nights of the 17th and 18th inst. If so, your trees 
may yet bring a good crop to perfection. 
Currant Buds not Expanding. — J. L. : The 
swollen and globular buds contain swarms of the 
Currant Mite which has been busily at work all the 
winter breeding, multiplying and puncturing the 
young leaves, causing them to swell up unnaturally. 
Pick off every swollen bud you can find and burn 
the whole lot at once to destroy the mites. By pur¬ 
suing this method, and by cutting out old stems 
occasionally to get up young ones you may be able 
to keep the pest in check. 
Peas not Coming Dp. — A. L .: You mention the 
fact of your having soaked the Peas before sowing 
them in order to make them come up quickly. This 
is, no doubt, the true explanation of the vs hole 
matter, and explains the cause of the failure. 
Peas, particularly of the Marrowfat varieties, absorb 
a great amount of water, and often split, thus 
exposing the embryo to the cold, wet soil. They 
rot very often, even when the weather in spring is 
finer than it has been this year. The damp soil 
would have been quite sufficient to supply the 
necessary moisture in order to induce sprouting. 
We should advise you to sow again while the spring 
is young. We should never soak Peas except in 
warm summer weather when the soil is dry and 
warm,. 
