April 29, 1899. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
555 
ing to see a garden photo, took us to his house where 
he was able also to show us quite an array of 
" spoils ” won in the "battles” he at times enters 
.nto—a large silver cup, a handsome timepiece, and 
tea-service, &c., &c. With all his successes, how¬ 
ever, Mr. Wood remains a frank and genial friend.— 
Van Dyck. 
-■ » - 
ORCHID NOTES & GLEANINGS, 
By the Editor. 
Odontoglossum crispum La Merveille.— 
The aspect of this variety of O. crispum is simply 
magnificent. The flowers have broad, almost 
triangular, overlapping segments, and the lip being 
shorter than the rest, the flower is pentangular in 
outline, and almost regularly five-sided. Large 
purple-red blotches on the centre of each segment 
unite so as to form one grand, more or less lobed 
blotch, the dark colour of which is vividly brought 
out by the pure white groundwork. There is also a 
large blotch in front of the golden disc, and several 
smaller ones round the sides of the same. It is aston¬ 
ishing that so many fine things continue turning 
• up amongst importations of this species, even after 
the forests of its native habitat have been ransacked 
by collectors for more than fifty years. The variety 
under notice flowered in August last in the establish¬ 
ment of MM. Lucien Linden & Co., at Moortebeek, 
and has already appeared in this country. The 
variety is well pourtrayed in Lindenia, PL, 641. 
Habenaria Susannae.—The genus Habenaria 
is well known in this country by the presence of 
three British species, but particularly H. bifolia and 
H. chlorantha, concerning which Darwin had some¬ 
thing interesting to disclose about their fertilisation. 
H. Susannae was originally sent home by Mr. 
Joseph Nimmo, and flowered in the Botanical 
Garden, Glasgow, in 1835. It had also been 
gathered by the Countess of Dalhousie in Nepaul. 
It enjoys a wide range in the tropical Himalayas, 
Burma, the mountains of Naya, Munnipore, Khasia, 
the Deccan, Java, and China, The flowers are of 
large size even for this genus, of great substance, and 
white. The side lobes are remarkably fringed and 
wide, while the long spur of the lip is another strik¬ 
ing feature of the species. There is a full page 
illustration of it in Lindenia , PL, 64 2. Flowering 
specimens frequently appear in collections of 
Orchids exhibited before the public in this country 
so that its cultivation does not seem to present any 
difficulty. 
Angraecum sesquipedale.—Amongst a large 
collection of Orchids at Falkland Park, South Nor¬ 
wood Hill, this strange-looking Angraecum is most 
conspicuous. Its large, ivory-white, star-shaped 
flowers excite the curiosity of all observers, as it is 
said to do to travellers in Madagascar, its native 
habitat. Mr. A. Wright, who has charge of the 
gardens here, is interested in all phases of Orchid 
adaptation to environments, as well as in their curious 
beauty and cultural requirements; and, therefore, 
he draws the visitor’s attention to the most remark¬ 
able feature of this plant, viz., the long whip-like 
nectary, which hangs down a considerable length 
beneath the labellum, and which, in fact, is respon¬ 
sible for its long specific name, u. " foot-and-a-half.” 
It was this peculiar feature with reference to fertili¬ 
sation that Darwin noted, and which elicited from 
him the statement that " {here must be moths in 
Madagascar with proboscides capable of extension 
to the required length ” to enable the plant to perpet¬ 
uate its kind ; and although this was ridiculed at the 
time, the moth has since turned up, thus proving the 
correctness of the great naturalist’s deductions. The 
Orchid in question is about 2 ft. high, has three 
flower stems, which carry seven flowers, six of which 
were fully developed when 1 saw the plant. The 
flowers are pure white, wax-like, and measure 8 in. 
from the lip to the top of the upper sepal, and 
rather more across, horizontally. The leaves are 
dark green and produced in two ranks so that the 
plant is well furnished with foliage as well as flowers. 
This Angraecum is at once a striking, as well as a 
curious, instance of Nature's mysterious means to an 
end, and a very good illustration of the inter¬ 
dependence between plants and animals.— C. B. G., 
Acton, W, 
Herbaceous Borders —In many places these bor¬ 
ders are yet to be pointed over. In fact, it is the 
best plan to leave the borders till the season is more 
congenial, not for the harm from frost, for it will 
enter deeper into firm than into loose soil, but be¬ 
cause of bulbs, which are only little more than 
through the soil, and for the sake of securing and 
planting any additional or new stock, and making 
the one planting and arrangement answer for all. 
Where borders rise back from the sides of walks in 
the kitchen garden, the back of them generally 
have no support, and very frequently they are 
broken down and ineffective a few weeks after the 
pointing over. 
To remedy this we advise the planting of Brier 
Roses in lines all along the back edge. They yield 
their quota of bloom, and afford a bank and shelter 
to the borders. In rearranging the borders, if such 
is contemplated, we do not think it a becoming style 
to have the plants so planted as to form an even 
graduation in heights from the tall kinds^at the back 
to the dwarf ones in front. Rather we would advo¬ 
cate the use of a medium plant placed a foot from 
the front edging, and along the length of the border 
have these plants of medium height irregularly 
dotted. By adopting this plan', breadth seems to be 
given to the border, and the effect affords lasting 
interest. For instance, Doronicum Harpur Crewe, 
or D. caucasicum plants of 2 ft. in height are generally 
placed in borders 10 ft. wide, back to, say 4 ft. trom 
the path. Now we would place them at only half a 
foot or 9 in. from the edge. Aquilegias of 2 ft. and 
3 ft. we would place within ij ft. or 2 ft. from the 
edge. Still, the general style must be the graduation 
system. 
The Flower Beds are now gay with Wall¬ 
flowers, budding Violas, Forget-me-nots, and 
Narcissi, while late Tulips are yet to come. To 
freshen and clean the beds go over them with a 
small rake or hoe and stir them. Prune and 
clip any small evergreens in flower beds or at angles 
on the grass. 
Trees and shrubs which have been recently 
planted ought to be made secure from winds. 
Lawns.— Among the flower beds and on the lawns, 
mowing may have been commenced. If the first 
mowing is yet to be, then an inspection of the 
mowers is the gardener’s first duty. To those about 
to invest in a new machine, we can guarantee 
Shank’s mowers for real good work and for lasting 
qualities. Where grass is being cut for the first 
time since the sowing, if the weather be bright and 
warm, do not rake up the grass, but leave it for a 
protection to the grass plants below. Of course, 
when dried it may be removed. 
Eradicate weeds such as Plantains, Dandelions, 
Ajugas, and Daisies from lawns. Where only a few 
exist, the " Daisy-killer ”—an instrument like a 
lengthened narrow syringe, containing a poisonous 
liquid, and having a sharp point which, when 
pressed into the Daisy, Dandelion, or other weed, 
lets free some of the poison to kill the said weeds. 
The speediest and best method for clearing off the 
Daisies in the case of lawns much overrun, is to 
apply Fowler’s lawn sand. This application also 
stimulates the grass. The Pampas grass (Gynerium 
argenteum) is a very handsome ornament at the 
outer edge of a lawn. Old plants which are loosing 
vigour should be lifted, broken up a little, and re¬ 
planted in rich soil. 
Miscellaneous. 
If it is deemed safe enough (and it ought to be!) 
bedding Pelargoniums can be placed outdoors now, 
or very soon after this date. A position in front of a 
south-facing Peachery or any such range, where if 
need be some protection can be guaranteed, will 
answer them. Increase the stock of bedding plants 
usually raised from cuttings. Prick out all annuals 
now in boxes, and give them a mild, light position. 
Stocks must not be coddled, else they will be spoilt. 
Asters should now be sown, and Begonias must be 
started. Those which have been already looked out 
will soon require cooler quarters. Sow seeds of 
ornamental grasses out-of-doors. The following are 
very excellentBromus brizaeformis, Agrostis 
nebulosa and A. elegans, Briza maxima, and B. 
minor, with Lagarus ovatus, the Hare’s Tail Grass. 
Shrubby Calcolarias may be lifted from the frames 
and planted in some sheltered border, five or six 
weeks before being bedded out. 
Salpiglossis can be sown this month in the open 
borders. Sow annual Solanums in boxes for plant¬ 
ing in June. Additional sowings of Mignonette, 
Balsams, and Asters should be made. Most of the 
hardy annuals should, if possible, be sown within 
the next ten days ; while half hardy species may be 
left three weeks longer, this is, for open air sowings. 
Allow Dahlias more air ; shift on those in need of 
fresh soil; water freely, and keep them free from 
pests.— J. H. D. 
KitcHen Barflen Calenflar. 
The late cold weather has kept everything backward 
so that the present is one of the latest seasons we 
have experienced in this part of the country for a 
number of years; this being so there will not be an 
over plentiful supply of vegetables for some time. 
Cabbages have behaved in a peculiar manner, for up 
till the severe weather in March they looked remark¬ 
ably well, but since then many of the most forward 
have gone to seed. Broccoli, however, are late, 
which will, in a measure, help to compensate for the 
loss of the others. Borecole, too, is doing well just 
now, especially the Asparagus varieties, which are 
giving a plentiful supply of young, tender sprouts. 
Asparagus in the open ground is just pushing 
through the soil, so that these together with forced 
vegetables will help to tide over for a few weeks till 
other things are more abundant. The ground is now 
in excellent condition for planting out such things as 
Cauliflower that were raised under glass. Potato 
planting should also be brought to a close or the 
plants will not have time to complete their growth 
before bad weather in the autumn sets in. 
Trenches may be got out for the early Celery, 
where there is any vacant ground, such as that 
cleared of Broccoli, the ridges between them being 
sown or planted with Lettuce, dwarf Beans, Spinach, 
or other catch crops that may be cleared off before 
the time arrives for earthing the Celery. Late Peas 
such as Michaelmas, Late Queen and Autocrat may 
now be sown, as these take a long time to come to 
perfection. There are, however, many of the main 
crop varieties that could be sown for succession, 
such as Stratagem, Telegraph, Telephone, Invincible, 
Exhibition, Veitch’s Main Crop, and some others. 
Stake those sufficiently advanced that they may not 
suffer owing to being blown about by the wind. 
In sheltered situations a row of Runner Beans 
may be sown towards the end of the first week in 
May. These if not cut by frost will come in early. 
Dwarf Beans may also be sown where protection 
can be given, but in exposed places better defer 
sowing a little longer. Thinning of many vegetable 
crops will now require attention, particularly the 
early sown Parsnips and Carrots, which should be 
singled out as soon as large enough to handle. 
Prick out Celery from the early sowings on to slight 
hot-beds that the plants may gain strength and grow 
more robust. Those from the later sowings should 
be pricked out on a warm border. 
Broccoli for late planting ought now to be sown 
thinly on a west border or in the open quarters, such 
position being preferable to a warmer situation where 
in hot weather the plants are liable to the attacks of 
flea. Seakale that was planted early will have made 
sufficient growth to require disbudding, all but the 
strongest shoot should be removed from each plant 
if good crowns are to be produced. As frames that 
have been used for forcing vegetables become empty, 
these should be utilised for Cucumbers, Melons, etc. 
Sow Vegetable Marrow seed for succession,either in 
pots for planting out later on, or on slight hot-beds 
where protection can be given in case of frost. Pay 
particular attention to dusting the Onion beds with 
soot as the other gets washed off by the showers, as 
this will act as a preventative against the attacks of 
the Onion fly. 
Where the Potatos are showing through the soil 
they should be covered to ward off the frost. Sow 
Lettuce, Radishes, Mustard and Cress to keep up a 
supply, as these will now be in constant demand. 
Cucumbers growing in pits should be stopped at 
every second joint, and the shoots regulated so as to 
admit all air and light possible amongst the foliage. 
Remove the fruits before they get too large, other¬ 
wise they will rob the plants and prevent them from 
continual bearing.— Kitchen Gardener. 
