616 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
May 27, 1899. 
ints for Amateurs. 
Cleanliness in horticulture is valuable for its own 
sake and for the pleasure it affords, and for the 
orderly routine it necessitates. An unkempt garden 
is no garden at all. Dirt-ingrained glass structures 
are (tst) an eyesore, (2nd) a means of excluding or 
absorbing light, (3rd) the happy hunting ground for 
small insects, and (4th) a means whereby filth might 
be transmitted to the plants. Such conditions are 
against the healthy development of plants. Filthy 
plants are injured because (1st) the "nostrils” of 
the leaves—the stomata—are stopped, and for 
breathing the leaves depend largely on the stomata; 
(2nd) insects are generally attentive to such plants, 
and suck away the vital sap. In any case, the dirt 
hinders growth, and promotes the progress of de¬ 
bilitating agencies. Clean, sturdy growth from first 
to last is what we want. 
Healthy plants can be obtained by keeping the 
houses pure and sweet, the pots clean to let air 
through them, the foliage fresh by syringing or by 
dusting, washing, or fumigation. True, insects 
breathe by means of air holes—tracheae—dotted 
over their bodies. By syringing with sticky, 
poisonous liquids their air-holes are stopped, and 
they die. But there are true insects with hard skins, 
which take no hurt from such applications. Insecti¬ 
cides are divided thus :— 
r. Those which poison the insect by acting 
through the food, in the case of mandibulate insects 
chiefly. 
2. Those which kill by contact the haustelate 
insects, which are generally more delicate. 
3. Fumigants. For the first class we have Paris 
Green and London Purple—a b) -product of dye— 
arsenate of lead. The insects, that is, imagoes, 
larvae, or pupae, which these chiefly affect are those 
of sawflies, gall insects, &c. For class two the 
killing of bugs, scales, aphides, &c., kerosene 
and petroleum—the latter with soft soap—may be 
used ; also Pyrethrum powder, 4 oz. to 1 gill of 
methylated spirits, diluted afterwards with 12 galls, 
of water; and hellebore, sulphur, and resin washes. 
Fumigants are sulphur, tobacco paper, XL All 
Insecticide, and hydro-cyanic gas. By the judicious 
use of one or other of the above-named eradicators 
we may beat off our insect foes. 
One other important point under this heading is 
the fact of keeping garden grounds clean. Weed 
crops often sustain insects till the more desirable 
foods (cultivated crops) appear. For instance, the 
Turnip flea beetles feed on Charlock, Shepherd's 
Purse, and other cruciferous weeds during spring 
and early summer till the young Turnip plants are 
brairded, whence to them they go. All rubbish or 
decaying matter surrounding outdoor or indoor 
plants should be cleared from them, else much 
labour may be vainly exerted in trying to suppress 
vermin. 
Shade.—When sunshine is too strong we require 
to shade or ward off some of this force. This 
matter of shade every experienced gardener under¬ 
stands, and, if careful, correctly adopts. 
From negligence or other causes many beautiful 
and maybe rare plants have been damaged through 
having been exposed to burning sun rays streaming 
through the concentrating medium of glass roofs. 
Nearly all plants relish some amount of shade, 
Orchids, Ferns, stove and greenhouse plants, 
Cucumbers, and so on. This, of course, must not 
be taken absolutely, as there are degrees in shading. 
It is difficult to say whether too much or too little 
shading causes the greater loss and trouble. Cer¬ 
tainly both extremes are to be cautioned against. 
For instance, we said stove plants had to be (condi¬ 
tionally) shaded. Crotons and Nepenthes are stove 
plants, but to allow both orders of plants the same 
amount of light (sun) and shade would mean the 
deteriorating of one of the classes. 
To secure the fullest beauty of Crotons much 
light is needed, whereas Nepenthes reward us best 
when they are allowed a softer light. Tender plants, 
viz., seedlings, cuttings, or newly potted plants, 
those reduced by pruning, or checked by some 
change of temperature, one and all are benefited by 
being shaded from immoderate sunshine. The 
lower forms of plant life can almost wholly dispense 
with light. The scale of light reduction begins 
with the higher cryptogams, and descends in stages 
to Agarics and other fungi and cellular plants. To 
the inexperienced it may appear strange that tro¬ 
pical plants should in our sun-stinted land require 
what is not so judiciously afforded them in their 
natural habitats of burning sun. But one need but 
think to recognise the fact that objects under glass 
are within a sphere which attracts light, and concen¬ 
trates the heat rays bearing upon it, and that the 
subjects beneath have to bear a far more direct force 
than under natural conditions. Then artificial 
atmospheres are frequently at fault. Naturalised, 
or rather domesticated, plants are probably less firm 
in structure and morphological combination than 
plants in their native haunts. Strong sunshine in 
this country comes upon us intermittently, and fre¬ 
quently with sudden force 
White or gray coloured shading is best. Roller 
blinds are far more desirable than paint shading. 
According to the class of plants under culture, the 
density and length of time the shading is employed 
differs. For impromptu shading lime-water can be 
syringed over the houses in need. 
Ventilation.—Among the many operations in 
gardening this one ranks among those most impor- 
portant. We may apply heat to our houses, but a 
stagnant atmosphere—which without aeration would 
obtain—never produces appreciable growth. Venti¬ 
lating is an art or science, fraught with great results. 
Why do we ventilate ? It is to maintain certain 
temperatures steadily; to lower too high tempera¬ 
tures ; to change the air within glass structures, and 
so produce a healthy, feeding, sweet atmosphere. It 
is likewise done to dispense dampness and to secure 
motion among the plants, thus aiding growth. Plant 
growth is aided by the slight motion of'floating 
or moving air. The moving air acts in a manner 
with plants as with creatures, that is, it moves the 
the plant's limbs—leaves and twigs. Such motion 
has a mechanical effect on the propulsion of sap. It 
also ensures a constant and fresh supply of " food ” — 
carbon dioxide. Transpiration is facilitated by ven¬ 
tilation. A still atmosphere retards or minimises 
this action. 
This is why we keep our houses or frames 
shaded, moist, and closer in degree, according to 
requirements, after potting plants, or after lifting and 
planting, or such like operations, whereby the root 
system of plants have become checked. Ventilation, 
or rather aeration, should be constant at all times, 
in both cold and warm structures. Of course, this 
would entail an increased heat supply, and certainly 
intricate and delicate ventilating gear for warm 
Orchid houses and warm stoves. 
Draughts and cold currents should never be felt 
in plant houses. Draughtiness may be termed ven¬ 
tilating, but it is not plant house ventilation ; what 
is wanted is " aeration." 
Both sides of the top ventilators of span-roofed 
houses should work separately. This allows one to 
ventilate to leeward, or otherwise work as needs 
call. For small, heated pits lantern ventilators are 
suitable. Ventilators should be made to allow their 
being used in wet or snowy weather. And for warm 
houses, where valuable plants are grown, the bottom 
ventilators should be sunk, and the warmed air given 
a checked passage inwards. Frames are better 
aired by tilting than by the draught-incurring 
method of pushing down and drawing up every 
other sash. A principle to remember in all ventil¬ 
ating is that heated air rises, while cold air, being 
heavier, falls. 
Borders.—By timely attention, when the growth 
Of shoots is dwarf and young, we may secure such 
sturdy plants that their wealth of bloom will be 
twice or three times what it would be were we to 
leave things to their own way. To accomplish such 
attainments then we must act. The greatest help in 
the securing of fine blooms, deep and brilliant and 
numerous, is to let the shoots now starting up have 
as much room as possible. What I have said under 
the headings already discussed will give a clue as to 
why thinning should really be so beneficial. I am of 
opinion that herbaceous Phloxes and Delphiniums 
suffer the greatest loss when crowded than do most 
other plants of a like nature. Their season of 
growth is lengthy, and they grow closely. There¬ 
fore, by all means give them air and light, and open 
each shoot to the dews which fall.— Beacon. 
- «i » -— 
Polypodium vulgare is subject to much variation 
in form and habit. 
Correspondence. 
Questions asked by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening will be answered on this page. 
Anyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
"Amateurs' Page " on the top of their letters. 
Manuring Fruit Trees .—Pomolo : You might mix 
soot, wood-ashes, " burn-bake,” and dry sewage with 
your soil, and add this in the form of a mulch to 
your trees. Or dressings, of what we call farmyard 
manure, or even the mowings from lawns, would be 
the better stuff, both for its nourishing powers, and 
the power it has for retaining moisture and a cool 
even temperature. No doubt, manures are employed 
early in the season, but it is better to let the air and 
sunshine warm the ground before giving to the 
swelling crops their manurial nourishment. Lime 
waterings benefit stone fruits where the land lacks 
lime. 
Drainage .—Anxious : Yes, we are confident if you 
drained your meadow that you would be able in two 
years' time to grow good vegetables. If, as you say, 
the stream runs along the south side, then this 
would be the place to run your drain pipes to. Even 
although it is level, you will find the water can be 
removed quite thoroughly. According to circum¬ 
stances, you may do the work now or leave it for the 
late part of the year. Drains laid 2J ft. deep in your 
case, and, say, 9 ft. apart, should do what is wanted. 
The pipes need not be more than of 3 in. bore, but 
must be evenly and very firmly laid, and covered 
over with turf or straw. Reserve the good soil to 
put on the surface again, after filling in. You will 
find a fall of 1 in. in 8 ft. or 10 ft. quite enough. 
But for this sort of work you should secure the 
guidance of experienced assistants. 
Window Box .—John Smith : Why not pass a 
strap around your box and fasten the ends to that 
part of the sill next the window sash, if you cannot get 
an iron or wooden support ? For plants nothing is 
nicer than Ivy-leaved Pelargonium Souvenir de 
Charles Turner, or you can have any of the common 
bedding Pelargoniums, such as dark crimson Henry 
Jacoby, scarlet flowered Flower of Spring, pink 
Christine, and so on. Petunias, Begonias, Mar¬ 
guerites, Fuchsias, Stocks, and China Asters may 
all be used. Lobelias, Musk, Tropaeolum, &c., for 
an edging, and as a climber the Canary Creeper. 
Schizanthus retusus .—Nemo :Used as pot plants 
these annuals are excellent. The specific form is of 
a pale lavender-blue maculated with white, and the 
flowers, in long racemes, have the general likeness 
of an Oncidium spike. Sow the seeds in August in 
good soil, though of a light texture, using pots not 
exceeding 6 in. in diameter. Moisten the surface 
soil, and place the pots in a cool house to germinate, 
and grow the young plants in a cool temperature 
right on until they flower, which will be in March or 
earlier. Later sowing will carry the succession to a 
later period. It is of importance to keep the plants 
stout and robust by thinning the seedlings and by 
supporting the shoots, and just before they come 
into bloom to feed them with soot water or artificial 
manure. There are many fine varieties in various 
colours. 
Walks.— J. J. : If you desire a smooth, lasting 
footpath lay your walk in asphalt. Take out 6 in. 
at least of the soil along the course of where the walk 
will run. Make the base very firm, and fill up the 
space with stones, none larger than a hen’s 
egg. Finish off with fine gravel and a slight addi¬ 
tion of cement, and over this run the coal-tar. Allow 
it to settle, then sprinkle fine pebbles or spar over it, 
and roll them evenly into it. 
Lavender ,—George Love : This fine old favourite 
odorous plant, Lavandula vera, will grow freely 
from cuttings taken any time during the summer, 
and struck either in the open border or in a cool 
frame; or you could raise it from seeds. It grows 
freely and flowers well on sunny slopes, and is not 
particular as to soil. You might be able to distil its 
essence or obtain a scented pomade by following 
some notes we made on scents at p. 567. Or simply 
dry the plants. 
Manures: Artificial versus Natural.— R. Cooper: 
You ask which do we favour, and we reply that 
