680 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
June 24, 1899. 
iints for Amateurs. 
Soils.—It is convenient to be able to discuss soils at 
all times as indeed we do. The value of horticul¬ 
tural soils greatly depends upon the kind of rock or 
rocks from which they have originated, and the 
fineness to which they may have crumbled. A soil 
to be fitted for good growth must allow the free 
entrance of air and water; should have a suitable 
supply of plant food and must be in good mechanical 
condition. Air throughout is absolutely necessary 
and likewise a sufficiency of moisture. The 
entrance of air is also worth much because of 
the moisture it endows dry land during summer 
evenings. Good soils must have a capacity for re¬ 
taining a certain amount of moisture, or of obtaining 
a supply from below by the power of capillary- 
attraction. They must also have a suitable temper¬ 
ature for growth. Heat should be stored during the 
day to equalise matters at night. A good soil should 
always yield freely the six specially needed inorganic 
elements (minerals), which are phosphorus, potas¬ 
sium, magnesium, sulphur, iron, and calcium, and 
must be open to all agencies which tend to make 
these soluble and food yielding. These are the 
more salient points of a suitable soil. 
Clay Soils.—In clay soils the primary item of 
quality is largely lacking, that is, a free air circulation. 
Not infrequently also they are scant in humus. 
Humus darkens soils and dark soils are warm ones, 
capable too, of storing heat. Clays hold too much 
water at times and are stony, hard and dry at other 
periods. Our first and proper act here then is 
logically that of draining. 1 shall not write on the 
draining of land. Suffice it to say that on very heavy 
land, pipes of 3 in. bore placed 2J ft. deep, and 9 
ft., apart, have been found able to convey off the 
unneeded soil-water from heavy lands with a mode¬ 
rate fall of rain. Drainage raises the temperature 
of the soil by partly drying it, and it allows an 
abundant supply of sweet pure air to enter the 
previously chocked-up soil spaces. The soil being 
warmed, rains come, and, descending, carry the heat 
away down to the subsoil. Thus earlier and better 
growing conditions are obtained. After draining, 
a hearty application of lime would scarcely be amiss. 
To clay land, lime acts much as burning it would do, 
with this advantage that it would not destroy the 
organic body of the soil or the phosphatic compounds. 
Clay consists of extremely fine particles of sand 
puttied together by a sticky substance tech¬ 
nically called " hydrated silicate of alumina.” 
This sticky matter is said to be a great agent in fix¬ 
ing the potash, ammonia, and phosphates in such 
lands. Applications of lime are warrantable because 
of the pulverising effect they have. Lime curdles, and 
unites into massed particles this hydrated silicate of 
alumina and thus promotes a freer and better tilth. 
Deep and oft-repeated turnings of the soil and full 
exposure to climatic vicissitudes are potent elements 
for improvement. A third operation should be the 
percentage of humus, of which matter clays usually 
stand in need. Farmyard manure, leaf mould, and 
vegetable remains are available to supply this. By 
decomposition of this stuff, various chemical 
combinations accrue, and if wood-ashes be also 
added, such valuable plant foods as nitrate of potash 
and carbonate of lime are formed. So by all these 
operations we shall have converted a rather uncon¬ 
genial soil into an ideal one. 
Light Soils. — In considering light soils, the need 
of draining will depend on the rainfall of the district, 
and whether the soil is very light or only medium. 
Given the medium soil and a great rainfall, we 
suggest drains 3J ft. or 4 ft. deep, and 15 ft. to 18 ft. 
apart. Discover the percentage of lime and of 
humus, and correct these so far as practicable. 
Sandy soils in general require the addition of water¬ 
holding material. Humus, here again, supplies this 
want. It also helps to bind such soils, and to open 
heavy ones. By its decay carbonic acid is liberated, 
and the gas attacks the mineral fragments setting 
free traces of potash and phosphorus. It also aids 
in retaining ammonia and potash. Clay, we may 
note, has five times more capacity for retaining 
moisture than sand, and humus has six times the 
power of sand. When clay can be secured apply 
dressings to the light soil. 
Peaty 8oils.—We can test yet another soil, a 
peaty one. We find it possesses physical properties 
resembling the clays. Drain the land and apply 
lime. This latter attacks the too plentiful acids 
found in such soil, and it neutralises them. Then 
you should supply sandy soil, and other materials to 
give it body, and you will have converted an un¬ 
couth rotten body of vegetable mould into a good 
crop-yielding medium. As to colour and its effects 
we may state that dark gray soils are warmest, 
brown next, then the red ones, and lastly the light- 
coloured ones. 
Nitrification.—This is a process carried on in the 
soil by micro-organisms—bacteria. They change 
the nitrogen of the organic matter into nitrates, 
which means that they unite some other elements, 
after various changes with the nitric acid which is 
formed. Their work is done chiefly at 3 in. from the 
surface. Their conditions of growth are limited, and 
they have helps and hindrances. It may be said, 
however, that anything which is harmful or retards 
plant growth has equal effects on them, and it may 
therefore be apparent why the labour and expense 
of improving various soils is required. 
Manures.—Certain elements are essential for the 
growth of plants, and these are carbon, oxygen, 
nitrogen, phosphorus, potash, sulphur, iron, calcium, 
and magnesium. Some of them are drawn from the 
soil, as potash, nitrogen, sulphur, iron, calcium (lime), 
and magnesium, while the atmosphere supplies the 
greater part of the carbon and oxygen, hydrogen 
being got from water. Nitrogen is also secured from 
the atmosphere by plants of the Pea family, such as 
Lupines, Sweet Peas, Beans, &c. This is the 
element chiefly concerned in building up structure, 
causing robust stem and leaf growth. The nitrogen 
of blood and of natural manures has to be converted 
by the nitrifying organisms before it is fit for 
absorption. Phosphorus is got from bones, guano, 
basic slag, &c. Upon analysis we find the larger 
proportion of this element in seeds, and it tends 
towards flower production. Potash is largely found 
in young Vine shoots. Its important function is that 
of helping the formation of starch, without which plant 
growth would cease. Felspar and mica rocks yield 
a very large percentage of potash. Calcium unites 
with oxygen to form lime. Plants take in lime 
direct, and its great use in the soil is that of keeping 
it sweet and free from strong acids. 
Mag'nesium has an effect upon the production and 
the work of chlorophyll or green matter. Iron is 
certainly necessary for the development of these 
chlorophyll granules. It is also necessary for the 
high colouring of fruit. A very great deal of the 
quality of farmyard manure depends on the mixtures 
of different animals' excreta it may contain, and on 
the condition of these animals—whether they be 
young and growing, flattening kine or milch cows, 
and also on the kind of litter used for bedding. The 
litter that can absorb the greatest weight of liquid 
manure is the best in one way, though not in 
another, for though peat moss litter absorbs eight 
times its weight of the liquid excreta, and saw-dust 
four times its weight, yet are these almost worthless 
unless for dry sandy soils. Wheat straw retains a 
goodly amount of sap and decomposes fairly quick. 
Sheep dung is the richest of any. Horse, pig, and 
cow droppings are of munurial value in the order 
named. Green manuring is good for either light 
or heavy lands, more so light soil. Garden refuse 
of most kinds, decomposed and itiixed with wood 
ashes and lime, forms an invaluable compound. 
Sulphate of ammonia, nitrate of soda, blood, soot, 
hoof and horn parings, all are good manures for 
causing quick growth. These should mostly be 
applied to spring crops, as this helps them on and 
often makes them proof against insects and pests, 
which come in a rush with good weather. Super¬ 
phosphate, sulphate of potash, and others of the 
potassic or phosphate compounds do most good 
when given as autumn dressings. 
Present Work will consist of stirring the surface 
soil, and in attending to the general cleanliness of 
the ground and crops. It is well to be constant 
in thinning crops, or sowings, such as will be con¬ 
stantly in progress in the kitchen garden. By this 
time the bedding out will be finished. Some plants, 
as standard Heliotropiums, may stand in need of 
some little shade during the hottest of the day. 
The hints on watering given recently will require 
someconsiderationnow. Chrysanthemums should be 
closely watched to prevent the attacks of the Chrys¬ 
anthemum fly and also for rust. For those who 
have not much time to see to regular watering, the 
plan of plunging the pots nearly to the rims in soil 
or ashes is a good one. This should be left till the 
flowering pots are becoming filled with roots.— 
Beacon. 
Correspondence. 
Questions asked by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening mil be answered on this page. 
A nyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
"Amateurs' Page " on the top of their letters. 
Hardy Clematises. — J. W. : As before pointed out, 
if due precautions are taken, almost anything can 
successfully be planted in convenient weather all the 
year round. Of course, planting at the wrong time 
simply exposes the plants to increased risks. The 
Clematises, if in pots, will do all right at this time. 
This class of plants must have a rich soil, and like¬ 
wise it must be moist. These conditions are both 
secured by giving sappy dung to the soil and below 
the plant. A surface mulch will also retain the 
dampness. Suitable varieties for you will be the 
common C. Vitalba, and as you ask for the common 
names as well, these are : Traveller’s Joy, Old Man’s 
Beard, in allusion to the hairy seed vessels, and 
White Vine. C. montana (mountain Clematis), is 
also a small flowered, pure white variety, flowering 
about April or May. C. Marie Lefebvre is one of 
the very loveliest whites. It is very large. Then you 
can have C. Jackmanni, the purple-blue type, and 
C. J. alba. These are all perfectly hardy. 
Intense Culture.--IF. D., N.B.: We believe this 
expression first originated in America. It signifies 
that in an acre, or less, of plant bouses we can have 
all the wealth of a tropical land put before the gaze, 
and each specimen of the best. Such reality surely 
is “ intense.” 
Shade Wanted. — Jno.Hunt: Like the foolish 
virgins you are unprepared for the *' bridgegroom's ’’ 
coming. Nevertheless, no great harm is done if you 
will but put down a stout post or two and, securing a 
number of thin laths, proceed to make a screen of 
these to shelter and shade your beds. This will 
retard the blooms till the date you mention. 
Plants Poorly. — J. Brownlee : Why did you not 
shade your greenhouse a month ago ? Do so at 
once. If you have not some sort of blind then a 
painting of " Summer Cloud " or other shading may 
be put on. In weather such as we are now having 
much ventilation is needed, andit may be your plants 
are too crowded. Be careful in watering; see that 
nothing is hurt from need of it. You might write 
some time again to say how things are, and give 
fuller details. 
Fountain. — P. Murray, Berwick: If you have 
some force of water higher than your front garden, 
and the same procurable for your purpose, it would 
be fairly easy to conduct it down by means of 
piping (or hose if you only wish it for a short 
period), and so arrange the jet to play as you would 
like it. Make a rockwork pile with a stone basin to 
catch the falling water, which will require to be 
conducted off. The jet or jets can be formed after 
fashion you choose, according as the holes are made 
in the nozzle. 
The Royal Fern. — W. W., Eyemouth: The Royal 
Fern (Osmunda regalis) thrives very well in a com¬ 
post of turfy loam and peat, with an addition of sand. 
It has several varieties. The best plants we have 
seen of this Fern were growing by water pools or 
streams, and shaded. The apex of the fronds are 
fertile, but not the lower parts. You can try the 
planting of a specimen now, though we have gener¬ 
ally planted in March. It is a native of Britain. 
Watering.— J. Smith, Donnybrook : It is not easy 
to say why •' hard ” or spring water has seemingly 
so little effect compared with gentle showers of rain. 
Of course, rain has become enriched in falling, and 
being generally warmer and softer one can fancy it 
will be more easily assimilated. Keep the surface of 
your soil often stirred, and mulch or top dress your 
bed with dry dung of some sort. For your Viola 
beds you can try the plan of mulching them too. 
Cocoanut fibre and short grass is at times used. 
