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THE GARDENING WORLD 
July 15, 1899. 
||ints for ||mateurs. 
Continuation of Bloom. —An old Scotch wife said 
on one occasion that it wasn’t the getting of money 
that troubled her, but rather the keeping of it after 
it had been got. It is quite the same with the 
flowers of the garden. We all (I hope so) give a 
reasonable amount of labour in preparing a nice bed 
or border, or site for our plants, be they perennial or 
only annual. But somehow when the precious 
blooms arrive we are either too busy or forgetful, or 
it may be we enjoy the garden and our leisure in it 
so much that we overlook the fact that the beauty of 
our July garden is a passing one, and that continued 
care is still required to preserve its parts. In July 
one is enjoying the fruits of previous labour, a 
labour which in itself was a joy—a pleasure propa¬ 
gating pleasure. I think that nothing, or very little, 
in this world is half so sweet as roaming in the 
garden early on a summer’s morning. The green of 
the trees is a deeper, fresher, cooler green than at 
any time later in the day. The beauty of colour 
tones is like a pebble after rain, more brilliant, 
glossy, and with deeper shade behind the bright¬ 
ness. The dewdrops upon the grass are like so 
many fairy lamps among a forest of reeds, and the 
glinting of the sun from these crystal spheres seems 
to me like flashes from the mailed warriors of an 
elven host. Then how sweet the earth smells, and 
all the scented shrubs, also many that have only a 
fragrance, delicate and pleasantly peculiar, in the 
cool of a dewy morning or moist evening. But my 
Imagination overpowers my judgment; this is not 
preserving'the bloom in the garden. In the first 
place freedom among the shoots of a single plant, 
such as the large Delphiniums, Phloxes, and Sun¬ 
flowers, and individuality, so far as this is becoming, 
should be given to the plants in a line, or clump, or 
bed. Believe me when I say that it is far better to 
have two tall, strong, handsome shoots with their 
blooms than to have five or six coming from the 
same crown. Not only are the flowers, or, in fact, 
all the parts of the plants, so unlike what they 
might be that those who practise the plan of giving 
everything freedom would hardly recognise a plant of 
the same kind when spoiled by crowding. Then a 
timely stimulus by giving nourishment will in a dry 
season extend the blooming of Roses, Carnations, 
Liliums, and all the hardy plants from ten days to 
nearly a month in some cases, notably Phloxes and 
Pyrethrums. 
All gardens of any size beyond an acre should 
have a small water-cart, capable of being drawn by 
the strong lad. By its aid the work of watering or of 
conveying and of having a body of manure water 
easily proportioned is immeasurably facilitated. 
Then again, for an aid to blooming, cleanliness must 
be once more insisted upon. But perhaps the 
greatest help of any is in the prompt removal of 
swelling ovaries, that is, seeds or the fruits which 
contain the seeds. Of course, in some plants their 
beauty lies chiefly in the brilliant berries or fruits 
that swell up after flowering. Sweet Peas, however, 
are a case in point, where by very regular removal 
of the pods the plants will continue to bloom for six 
weeks longer in a good condition. Lupines, again, 
lengthen their spikes by a like attention. So do 
Delphiniums. And the cutting off of withering 
flowers, which just drain away sap and energy in 
forming seeds, also tends towards the continuance of 
the flowers among borders of hardy plants. 
Window Gardening.—I always enjoy a ramble 
through those streets where the window sills (and in 
country cottages) are well lined with plants either in 
boxes or in pots. It is remarkable too that even in 
large cities there is a large distribution of verdant 
drapery. Ampelopsis, Marguerites and bedding 
Pelargoniums are the chief plants used; and in those 
places where there is little garden space, the window 
can afford a great amount of pleasure and beauty. 
With a broad well-filled window-box and a shelf or 
two inside, amateur gardeners can cull many a sweet 
little posy for their breakfast, tea, or dinner table. 
And the influence of the flowers, and love for them¬ 
selves among the children or members of a house¬ 
hold is not to be overlooked. Few of us really know 
how elevating a power a little bunch of flowers even, 
has on peoples' characters. 
I was in a crowded street lately early in the 
morning amid confusion and dirt and evil smelling 
odours, when up came a man with a great basket of 
beautiful Sweet Peas,and the freshness and purity and 
soft fragrance coming suddenly amid such contrasts 
carried my thoughts away to the free country, the 
synonym of beauty and health. The beauty of the 
flowers is re-acted in our lives, if we care for them. 
I have already spoken of brackets and stands in 
parlours, dining and other rooms (see page 536, 
April 23rd.) For the more enthusiastic I would give 
the hint that where they have deep recesses or bow- 
windows, a sliding or opening glass partition might 
be fixed in line with the inner edge of the wall, thus 
converting the recess into a small plant case. With 
such an arrangement (which is easy to plan), the 
best of plants can be grown from start to finish in 
such places. 
Ventilation, however, is the sore point in the 
growth of plants in our windows, for we must air 
our rooms, which is often at times very hurtful to the 
plants. Outdoor shelves can be made more easily. 
They should be made to run back in separate tiers 
like the staging in flower shows. At this time too, 
the screens will be in constant operation. These 
should be made of stout cottony cloth or light canvas 
running outwards from the wall. They shelter the 
plants from strong sun, or gales, hail or heavy rain. 
Frequent syringings to keep them free from dust 
will also be required. 
The Fresh-water Aquarium is not the less worthy 
of mention because its chief interest is centred in the 
animated rather than the stationary forms. Cases 
or tanks of varying sizes from 14 ins. wide by 
24 ins. high to 2 ft. wide and 4 ft. 6 ins. high may 
be put together. Square sheets of glass 
should be preferred to vessels of curvilinear form. 
These sheets should be securely cemented to the in¬ 
side parts of a zinc tray, which can be bought ready 
made. Rockwork cemented to the bottom and sides, 
should rise well up into or even above, the water. 
It is preferable to raise up the rockwork and to leave 
chinks and spaces for mosses and Ferns. Plants of 
the Water Crowfoot, and Isolepis gracilis, Water 
Chickweed, Duckweed, Water Cress, flowering 
Rush, Vallisneria spiralis, or larger plants, as some 
of the Water Lillies, &c., may be used. Then small 
fishes of many sorts, with water larvae and insects, 
beetles, minnows, and water lizards are objects which 
will afford unceasing delight. 
Odd Corners might far oftener be turned to good 
account, but as a rule weeds and rubbish are almost 
the only show to be seen. Much of course depends 
on where or against what, these corners are situated. 
I have in my mind a long narrow strip running by a 
wall, and screened from the drive by a shrubbery. 
There was any amount of refuse, such as weeds 
and prunings from the shrubbery, heaped about 
one way and another with room for a mean¬ 
dering footpath as a back way to the house. This 
was, by some hard work, well sustained by enthusi¬ 
asm and desire here to triumph, converted from what 
it was into a pleasant shaded walk among hardy 
Aspidiums, Shield, Buckler and other Ferns, with 
here and there on the opener parts big Foxgloves, 
Mulleins, Trilliums, and Solomon’s Seal in among 
the well-placed roots and rock work. Grassy Knolls 
were ingeniously sloped against the well-clothed wall 
and planted up with Mahonias and other Berberis, 
small Coniferae and hardy evergreens, not varie¬ 
gated. White and blue flowered plants were chiefly 
used, as in the rather shaded positions; such were 
deemed most in keeping. Similarly another space 
though very much broader and opener, but repre¬ 
senting heavy, damp, grass land (skirting the kept 
lawns) was, by the introduction of the Bracken, 
Royal, Male and other Ferns, and by raising slight 
prominences higher still], and also by diversified 
grouping of young Birch and Pine trees transformed 
after a few years' growth into one of the pleasantest 
parts of the garden. 
Miscellaneous.—Continue to regulate, pinch and 
lay in young wood of good substance in place of 
scrappy old shoots in Peach trees, &c. Keep the 
syringe constantly in use, using only a little soapy 
water and some paraffin, keeping the latter well worked 
up, if red spider or any flies make their appearance. 
Vines will have been thinned ; and all lateral growths 
not of use should be kept pinched off. String up the 
shoulders and other parts of the bunches loosely. 
Be careful in ventilating, shutting up with a good 
deal of sun-heat and plenty of moisture. Keep the 
evaporating troughs filled with farmyard liquid man¬ 
ure. The borders must be carefully kept moist, and 
weak occasional feedings given. Melons must be 
supported by nets around them, or pieces of smooth 
board slightly oblique.— Beacon. 
Correspondence. 
Questions ashed by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening will be answered on this page. 
Anyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
"Amateurs' Page " on the top of their letters. 
Preserving Leaves.— C. Harding, Maidstone : The 
usual way, if not the only way, to preserve leaves 
is that of drying them between folds of blotting 
paper or any kind of porous paper. Ordinary news¬ 
papers which have not a smooth surface are Ai for 
this work. Get a number of folds of such paper, 
spread them smoothly out on a firm, dry, level sur¬ 
face (a board, or a dry, even floor), then, carefully 
lay out your leaves. If you have not more than one 
leaf, as is sometimes the case with rare Fern fronds, 
twist round one of the leaflets or pinnae in a com¬ 
pound leaf to show a back as well as a front view. 
Now your next step is to get a few sheets of the 
same kind of paper over the leaves or flowers. Do 
this cautiously, bit by bit, else you will not have 
very smooth and well-shaped specimens when they 
are dried. Over this you will have to lay another 
smooth board, and then plenty of weight in the form 
of bricks, stones, weights, or anything heavy. Every 
two days for a week, then every fourth day for 
another week, you would do well to look at the 
leaves, or oftener if they are sappy, and change the 
paper, using dry sheets to replace the wet ones, for 
the paper becomes damp from absorbing the mois¬ 
ture. When stiff and thoroughly dry, the only way 
to keep them in a handy form is to paste them down 
to sheets of paper. Drawing-book sheets will answer 
your purpose, for the paper used by botanists is 
expensive. In “ pasting down,” we only mean the 
use of strips of paper, as, for instance, narrow lines 
of butter paper or even stamp edging, although, 
again, you could be supplied with a gelatinous, thin 
paper specially meant for this work. The names of 
the leaf, flower, or plant, both common and botani¬ 
cal, and a few notes about it, such as where you got 
it from and when; also any uses it has, or peculiari¬ 
ties, and its natural order, &c. Anything that would 
bring to mind what is valuable not to forget. 
As to preserving flowers in their natural colours 
with the bulk of them it is difficult to retain the true 
or primary hues, unless by rather elaborate methods, 
which are secrets, more or less, of those who have 
experimented that way. We think, however, that if 
only for reference, the methods which we have 
rather fully described, will be found sufficiently 
reliable. The work is far simpler than the directions 
would make one suppose. 
Privacy .—De la Rue : Seeing you have, as you 
think, enough of tree and shrub screening already, 
we would suggest the following methods of shutting 
out what no doubt must be objectionable gaze. Your 
lawn slopes evenly to the north-west, at which limit 
the public road runs. Well then, if the length of 
exposed view is not too great, why not build a decent 
ornamental wall, or even a common brick, concrete, 
or stone wall and have it covered with such plants 
as we often recommend. Even a really good stout 
paling, well covered with perennial evergreen 
climbers might answer in cases not too much exposed. 
Then again you will know whether the cost or 
the difficulty of cutting a broad deep trench, all 
around the exposed boundary, and banking up the 
side next the road to be turfed over with grass or 
planted with Ivy, &c., would be “ worth the candle.” 
With the aid of some large stones, and roots, and 
hardy plants, a bank, high enough to suit your 
purpose, could be made. Stake out a certain breadth 
of lawn and by making a graduating sloped trench 
on the house side, and by using the soil excavated 
raise a bank on the roadway side of your ground. 
Afterwards smooth off the sloped sides and turf or 
plant them. Failing any of these we can only 
further suggest the building of very loose, rough 
stone walls (without mortar) a few feet apart, and 
as they are being raised, fill in between them with 
rough soil of various sorts and then plant Ferns and 
all kinds of suitable plants between the stones and on 
the top. We can recommend plants upon hearing of 
your resolve. 
