760 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
July 29, 1899. 
INTS FOR ||mATEURS. 
The Heating of Plant Houses —This is an oppor¬ 
tune time to renovate or instal a heating system to 
plant houses,. With permanently planted houses, 
and there are plenty, this, the warmest period 
of the year must of necessity be taken 
advantage of, if additions, or a re-arrangement has 
been planned. So without more ado allow me to 
make some remarks in this direction. 
Flue heating, though at one time the only method 
known, is now only used in old-fashioned ranges, or 
introduced in a novel way for some out-of-the-way 
green house or poor man's “hot house.” Given a 
good draught, a flue will burn all sorts of rubbish and 
give a roasting heat too. The “flue” system is the least 
costly to instal, but the most costly, after all, to main¬ 
tain. It is also the least effective in its results. Wh‘-re 
such a method is desired, the length of the flue 
should not exceed 75 ft. of 12-in. salt-glazed drain 
tiles. A direct rise of 3 ft. from the surface and not 
less than 1 in. in every 5 ft. after, and as much more 
as circumstances allow, should be given. The joints 
should be well cemented together. In stoking flue 
furnaces, keep the live fire clear and clean, and well 
to the front. 
Steam Heating—By steam the large cultivators 
obtain advantages, and for this class the system is 
the best possible. But as the attention to firing 
would be altogether beyond the time or wishes of 
the amateur, or small gardener, little need here be 
said about it. The cost of installation is not very 
great and the prompt control of heat is guaranteed. 
The pipes used in circulating through the green house, 
being a small bore,^-one in. or one-and-a-quarier 
in., the requisite amount of radiating surface can 
be readily distributed so as to produce the desired 
warmth in all parts of the house. Under this sys¬ 
tem valves are very numerous, for the sake of a 
perfect control of the heat. It may also be noted 
that unless the boilers are properly proportioned 
there may be a greater consumption of fuel than is 
the case with hot-water heating. But the greatest 
objection of all to be raised by small cultivators is 
that there must always be an intense fire kept to 
generate steam in the boiler, and throughout a 
winter's night this would be with them impossible to 
maintain. 
Hot-water Heating. — For all practical purposes 
on the smaller scale nothing beats the hot-water 
system. There is not the need of a constant supplv 
of firs as in steam-heatiDg, for the heat in hot water 
will tide over fair lengths of time. Therefore, the 
temperature of the greenhouse is less liable to be 
materially affected by any temporary variation in 
the intensity of the fires, which is a great advantage 
in the management of small places, so subject to 
neglect. The objection to the hot-water system is 
that the temperatue of the radiating pipes is slow to 
respond to the desires of the operator, and also the 
slow cooling of a large body of hot water makes 
quick control of temperature very difficult. Where 
large cast-iron pipes, with 4 in bore are used, a 
steady heat under fluctuating conditions is obtained, 
but here again rapid control cannot be secured. 
With small pipes a less steady heat is giveD, but the 
heat can be regulated more quickly. These few 
hints are only purposed with a view to comparison, 
and to draw attention to heating. Full hints on this 
subject can be got from specialists. 
Gymnogrammes.—The Gold and Silver Ferns 
are certainly well worth the extra trouble and some¬ 
what more skilful attention demanded by them. 
Many non-professional growers have accommodation 
and the other needfuls, and for them these beautiful 
Ferns are not unattainable. Starting with established 
young plants the temperature of the house for them 
ranges between 63* and 70°, and a steady mean will 
at any time suit them admirably. They enjoy 
atmospheric moisture, just enough to make the warm 
air soft, and what we might term thick. But this 
must only be got from water put into evaporating 
troughs, or sprinkled on the stages and paths, never 
from syringing. Dewing in its finest form is re¬ 
freshing to them, but the gold and silvery dust is 
very easily washed off, and this must not be done. 
Then a compost will be Seeded for potting. A sound 
and good soil, such as the admixture of two parts of 
nice fibrous loam with “ body ” in it, that is, enough 
of clay and sand besides the fibre; one portion of 
leaf soil, adding a liberal dash of sand, and some 
charcoal is just the quality. Freedom for the exit 
of water from the pots must be considered. In pot¬ 
ting firm and even work pays best. Do not 
absoluely ram them ; indeed, with plants in any size 
of pot not exceeding 6 in., the fingers and thumbs 
give sufficient pressure. Very little shade is re¬ 
quired. A soft light always gives the best results, 
but a dull light is against them. Watering is always 
a duty demanding care. Very beautiful forms are 
included in the following list :—G. chrysophylla, G. 
laucheana, and G aurea, of the commoner varieties. 
The fronds are from 1 ft. to 2 ft. in length, with dark 
brown stems and light, glaucous foliage. G. sul- 
phurea is a bright little plant; G. tartarea is one of 
the silver species, whose pinnae are small and in¬ 
dented, the fronds being 1 ft. or 2 ft. long. G. 
triangularis is a greenhouse variety. G. Mayi. 
another silver form of graceful habit, is compara¬ 
tively new. G. multiceps is gold-dusted, with heavy 
crested fronds. G. peruviana argyrea has a dusty 
gray tinge, and is one of the handsomest. G. 
grandiceps superba is very heavily dusted, and forms 
quite a beautiful and conspicuous variety. G. 
Alstonae and G. A. superba are also good. 
Shrubby Spiraeas.—These very beautiful hardy 
shrubs flourish in quite a variety of soils, which 
fact allows us to dispense with any further notice 
in this connection. They can be increased in three 
ways ; by suckers, or cuttings, or from seeds when 
well ripened. Once a stocky plant has been raised 
there is practically no further need to give any special 
attention to it. The cutting out of old wood for the 
development of fresh shoots, with also top-dressings 
when any waning of vigour becomes evident, will be 
all that anyone need remember. Some splendid 
varieties are found in Spiraea Bumalda Anthony 
Waterer, a plant which, when planted in beds on a 
lawn, has a bright effect with its rosy-pinkish in¬ 
florescences. S. lindleyana and S. sorbifolia are 
much alike, both having white flower trusses, but 
are in bloom at different times, the former in Sep~ 
tember and the other a month or so earlier. The S. 
ariaefolia and some of ils varieties are very hardy 
and beautiful, bearing soft white panicles of bloom. 
S. prunifolia has slender branches, oblong-leaved, 
and white flower panicles. S. confusa, with S. 
Aruncus and many others, may be taken as all hardy 
and very fine. 
Present Work. — Chrysanthemums must be 
roughly staked, firmer and closer tying being left till 
just before housing time. Lateral growths must be 
continually pinched off. Look over the points of 
the shoots at times to see that no insect or any peit 
is harming them. Syringe them every afternoon 
when the sun goes off them. Liquid feedings may 
be continued, but only weak and intermittent sup¬ 
plies are as yet required. Plants are best to be 
looked over before 8.30 a.m., leaving the more 
thorough soakings till late in the afternoon. Those 
growers who followed the hints on plunging the pots 
in ashes or soil with a slate below, will find the 
waterings ever so much less frequent now. But I 
do not recommend this to those whose leisure allows 
them to water regularly. Fresh mulchings may be 
given to fruit trees, ornamental shrubs, or bedding 
plants. The dry weather is against successful bud¬ 
ding. The water-cart will be, like the hose, in con¬ 
stant use for soaking all sorts of garden stock. 
Shading, ventilating, syringing, pinching, tying-in, 
making new plantations of Primroses, &c., trans¬ 
planting of various seedlings for autumn planting 
out, as Wallflowers, Violas, Daisies, Forget-me-nots, 
and other plants—all such work must now be done. 
Layer Strawberries, and prepare for laying Carna¬ 
tions early next month. See about the autumn bulb 
order, and look over old bulbs that have been lifted. 
Store them in a cool, dry room. Peg down all 
straggling bedding plants. Dip fruit tree shoots in¬ 
fested with Aphides in a solution of Bentley’s 
quassia extract. Try to suppress any colonies of 
American-blight by rubbing a lather of carbolic soft- 
soap or Gishurst’s compound all about them. Shad¬ 
ing for nearly all kinds of indoor fruits and plants 
will be beneficial at this time. — Beacon. 
Encouragement to Hybridists —The great beauty 
and interest attached to the crossing of plants lies 
in the uncertainty of what the results may be. We 
heard of a Cucumber baying fetched £[50 last year. 
Who would not hybridise ? 
Correspondence. 
Questions asked by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening will be answered on this page. 
Anyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
"Amateurs' Page " on the top of their letters. 
Coloured Vine Leaves.— W. D., Edinburgh : We 
should say that the differences in the colour of the 
foliage of your Vine, Gros Colman, when grafted 
upon distinct stocks, as on Madresfield Court, where 
the leaves came red ; on Monk's Hamburgh, green; 
or on its own roots, variously coloured, but chiefly 
yellow—these differences, we would say, are due to 
constitutional peculiarities. Human beings, accord¬ 
ing to their idiosyncrasies, are found to differ greatly 
in colour. The roots of distinct stocks, too, have 
each a power of selecting the various salts or sub¬ 
stances in solution from the soil in different degrees 
and quantities according to their liking. The effect 
which light has in giving colour to an organism 
according to its structure; and also to the quantity 
of material and the variety of the same, contained in 
the said structure (the tissues), has been proved by 
various scientists. The varying quantities of “sap," 
gathered and sent up by the roots of the separate 
stocks, has also a wonderful influence on the colour. 
Differences of treatment and position must also be 
considered. Try what light dressings (separately 
applied) or solutions of sulphate of potash, mag¬ 
nesium, kainit, and lime will do. 
Charcoal: itsUse.— M. A., Devon-. In a slight way 
charcoal conserves moisture. It is also known to act 
in attracting to itself any of those hurtful gases 
which one way and another are engendered by de 
composition of humic compost such as we use for 
many Orchidae. Ferns, and fine foliaged plants. One 
may often see roots in close contact with charcoal, 
although when it is very fresh it may not be so re- 
commendable. 
Rose, Austrian Copper.— Alex. McK., Hants-. 
This is a very beautiful climber. We would, how¬ 
ever, rather suggest for your archway Crimson 
Rambler, R. multiflora, R. Amy Vibert, or others of 
this stamp, which grow fast and flower abundantly. 
Austrian Copper makes a fine show when left to 
grow unsupported in a sheltered, half-shady shrubby 
recess. 
Watering Vines. — Novice : The general rule laid 
down is that so soon as the fruits begin to colour, 
watering ghould be discontinued. So soon as the 
fruits commence to colour give the border a soaking. 
The last liquid manure (not strong) should also at 
this lime be given. Keep watering the surface, 
especially beneath the pipes, until the colour has 
begun to deepen around the footstalks, thence give 
no more. Allow sun and air to do their full work in 
ripening. 
Making a Greenhouse.— J. Telfer: If you have 
some sashes, some tools, and some skill, surely you 
can put a neat little house together. It may not 
grow high-class stock, but something is better than 
nothing, and now-a-days a person likes to be able to 
talk of “ my conservatory.” Allow bottom ventilation, 
and if you can fit the sashes to slide up and down 
you will afterwards find out the benefit of this. 
A little boiler may be managed with a single or 
double flow and return pipe or pipes. Perhaps with 
this you would like skilled assistance ; and to put it 
in properly at first will mean, no doubt, a saving 
later on. 
Black Spot on Tomatos — W. D., Edinburgh -. It 
would take up too much space at present to answer 
your question in detail. If you care to send ijd. we 
will return to you a copy of “ G.W.” for April 29th, 
1899, in which full notice and remedies of various 
Tomato and other diseases were given. In the 
meantime do not force your plants. Keep an airy 
buoyant atmosphere, and allow light to enter freely. 
Do not feed too heavily. The disease begins by a 
fungoid settlement on the pistil and may be noted 
soon after the fruits are set. Ihe difficulty in deal¬ 
ing with such a disease as this is,that to use poisonous 
applications the after worth of the fruits may be 
spoilt. Very great care must be taken with all 
poisonous mixtures. 
