776- 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
August 5, 1899/ 
Hints for ||mateurs. 
Cacti. — Considering how very intricate the structure 
of the vast majority of the Cactus tribe is, and with 
the real beauty there is in the exactitude of their 
proportions — these proportions too, dependent on 
manifold work and change internally—I do wonder 
that such limited appreciation of them exists. 
Nearly all of them are highly interesting. It may 
be that it requires a peculiarity of mind to see the 
interesting things about them, but of that I caDnot 
say. Most people, of course, like something which 
yields quick returns, ample returns, and worthy 
returns. This all granted, the ease with which 
Cacti, as a rule, can be grown, the little space or 
the rough and ready conditions which they require 
ought, I think, to ensure their more liberal patronage 
by all classes of plant lovers. While it is true that 
they do well in pots, their natural conditions and 
appearance are mo^ fittingly met and enhanced by 
the system of planting them out; and to all except 
trade growers there should be few objections 
against the system. Many a little greenhouse could 
be portioned off, so that part of a border might be 
made and planted. The position need not be too 
sunny. It may seem strange to shade Cacti, but the 
owner of one of the prettiest collections I know of, 
always keeps a slight shading over his house during 
the scorching summer days. 
Making a Border. —In a few words it may be 
said that stones, crocks and sandy soil properly 
used, constitute the needful materials of a Cactus 
b;d. Make the bed at least 2 ft. deep for the larger 
plants, like some of the Cereus or Opuntias. Raise 
the layers from the bottom with loose bricks, broken 
in quarters, then sandstones, crocks, and rough lime 
rubble may blendedly be filled in. Then having 
raised these lower layers high enough, cover the 
surface over wiih very rough turves. A compost in 
which either to pot or plant the Cacti in, should 
contain one-half of good fibrous loam, and the other 
half composed of what I have mentioned, that is, 
sand, lime refuse, broken crocks, and pieces of 
bricks. Of course, the fineness of these mixtures 
will have to depend on the plants about to be potted 
and also whether they are to be confined in pots, 
large or small, or put out to the freedom of a bed or 
border. Anyhow, be careful in the potting or plant¬ 
ing out, for it is an operation not needed every day. 
See that the roots are all sound, and if so, spread 
them out on all sides, working in the compost 
judiciously, firming with the hands, and tread gently 
as the work progresses. 
In potting, very gentle ramming may be done. 
Now, according to their size again, the question of 
the need for slaking will have to be determined. 
The larger plants must be balanced either by a wire 
or wires on different sides, or by fastening them to a 
single strong stake, only that this latter, though for 
the time useful, will not at all be ornamental. Do 
not water the plants for a few days after the potting 
or planting, but keep a moist atmosphere and also 
syringe the plants. This sort of work should take 
place in February or March, or indeed any time 
through the late winter and spring. 
Almost the only other item now is that of water¬ 
ing, and, of course, the maintenance of a suitable 
temperature. It may be taken roughly that in 
winter they should be kept dry, occasional waterings 
being quite sufficient for them. When they are 
briskly growing in summer-time the supply of water 
should be regular. The general winter temperature 
should rauge between 50° and 6o°, and in summer 
from 7 o q to go° with sun heat. I do not propose to 
give a selection of varieties, as I deem it most advis¬ 
able for an intending purchaser to choose his own 
plants from a good collection, guided by the advice 
of an expert. 
Gladioli. — At this season of the year, when the 
brilliant spikes of Gladioli are showing up as one of 
the great features of the hardy plant gardens, a word 
or two about them may not be out of place. Well, 
first considerations in their growth is the kind of soil, 
its staple and mechanical condition. From what I 
can judge our plants last longer and are better, 
stronger in every way on a heavy dark loam. Now 
many reccommend just the opposite; that is, a 
light humic soil. For the lesser flowered and more 
delicate sections, where they are grown out-of-doors, 
a lighter soil may be proper, but from my experi¬ 
ence this does not answer for the hybrid Gandaven- 
sis section. And with a good solid soil the need for 
feeding you will find to be almost nil. Indeed, to 
grow them free from disease, and rapid in propaga¬ 
tion, the less of these manurial additions one gives 
to them the better. On dry soil, however, they must 
be watered freely. They prefer dry and warm con¬ 
ditions, but neither too much heat or drought at all 
answers. In planting, begin early in March, and 
continue at intervals until May, by which the 
season of flowering is stretched out. The corms 
(not bulbs) should be planted 3 in. deep, and at least 
1 ft. apart. I do not very much care for the mixing 
of colours, my reasons being that the general eflect 
is greatly reduced, and the interest somewhat spoilt. 
Neat stakes must be placed against each spike when 
it appears. 
Lift the corms after the leaves begin to wither. 
The foliage and shoots must be left intact till 
the corms have become thoroughly dry and 
ripened. Hang them up in bunches in some dry, 
cool, old attic or shed. No damp, however, must 
be near them. Probably the best or quickest 
method of propagation is that ot selecting and 
growing on the little bulbils around the base of the 
old ones. Seeds are also fairly reliable. 
Antirrhinums —The varied forms of the Snap¬ 
dragons, as these plants are popularly called, are, 
I reckon, among the most valuable hardy plants we 
have. Their worth too is seen in the fact that they 
are grown quite as liberally in large gardens as in the 
garden of the allotment-holder, or he who has only 
a few rods of land around his house. Swaying on 
the precipitous banks near the railway stations, or 
' scattered about in any light border, old ruined walls, 
or places of a parallel likenness, their beauty and 
their worth is very specially unfolded. And how 
easy to cultivate. It may be said that a rich light 
soil suits them to ihe fullest. Sow a pinch of seed 
from now, any time for the next few weeks either in 
the open border, which I prefer, or in boxes to be 
transplanted Iaier on. These will be in beautiful 
form for planting to yield flowers next year at this 
time. Plant them regularly in lines or beds. There 
are three or four sections into which Antirrhinums 
can be classed. The first is the tall growing kinds, 
the majus group as they are termed, which reach to 
7 ft. and 8 ft. high. Then there are the minor forms, 
those which grow more densely and seldom higher 
than 2 ft. These probably are the most serviceable 
and the most generally used. Then Messrs. Cannell 
& Sons, of-Swanley, who have done so much in 
bringing about new styles of plants, have reared a 
pigmy strain which for close massing or for pot 
culture may prove acceptable. There may also be 
classed a section to embrace those between the 
minor and major sections. Before I leave off, I 
should like to point out that no insect can enter the 
mouth of the corolla or flower tube, but the big 
humble bees, and even they as well as hive bees, 
not to be done out of the hidden honey, bite or pierce 
a hole at the base of the tubular flowers. 
Bucharis Culture. —A summary may well be made 
on the cultural needs of these natives of tropical South 
America. Great heat, plenty of water at the roots 
and in the air, good soil of a rich and rather heavy 
nature, with rather meagre shade, are the main 
points to adhere to. New stocks are raised either 
from seeds or from the bulbils at the base of the 
parent plants. When plants,—about three bulbs in 
a 6 in. or 7 in. pot — are growing quickly, and 
are established, warm water has a marked effect on 
them. I know of a grower who flowers a splendid 
tubful of these plants frequently by alternately rest¬ 
ing them and feeding them with weak liquid manure 
whose temperature is never less than 75 0 . But such 
warm water I do not advise. Pot the bulbs half-an- 
incb deep and moderately firm, and it is important to 
have strong bottom heat for their growth. Cut off the 
flowers whenever they begin to wither and so con¬ 
serve the strength. Young plants should not be 
rested until they are matured, but when great fat 
bulbs are made see about getting them firmed and 
ripened. Rest them gradually, but let them have a 
thorough firming up. For the Eucharis mite there 
is hardly a remedy. To wash and clean the bulbs 
with lime water, and to water them with sooty liquid 
is anything but pleasant to the mites, and such appli¬ 
cations, if moderate, help the plants.-— Beacon. 
Abutilons are nearly allied to the Mallows. 
Correspondence. 
Questions asked by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening mil be answered on this page. 
A nyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
"Amateurs' Page " on the top of their letters. 
Selection of a Boiler. — T. Ingram, Lytham : The 
working principles to be considered in the selection 
of a suitable boiler should be (1) its heating surface 
and its power to heat the dimensions of your range. 
(Every square foot of effective heating surface in a 
boiler is equal to 40 ft. to 50 ft. of 4 in. piping, or 
50 ft. to 60 ft. of 3 in. piping.) (2) Boilers ought 
always to be able to do half as much more heating as 
is ever generally required from them. (3) A small 
apparatus ought to have more surface of boiler, in 
proportion to the length of piping, than a larger one, 
because the fire is less intense and burns to less 
advantage in a small boiler. (This latter point also 
brings up the consideration of its power for retain¬ 
ing latent heat or of speedily gathering intensity.) 
(4) The quantity of fuel a given boiler will consume 
is also something to attend to. (5) The manner of 
its heating, that is, whether a saddle, upright tubular 
or ought else, and its convenience for stoking. (6) 
The proper regulation of draught. 
Troublesome Red Spider.— H. F. T., Salisbury : 
The red spiders are all but indiscernible by the 
naked eye, being about / 0 of an inch long. The 
mother parent spins a fine web underneath the 
foliage cf Melons, Cucumbers, Vines, Peaches, 
Orchids, Palms, and other plants, then lays her 
eggs. Very soon, under favourable conditions, the 
young spiders hatch out and commence to draw 
upon the juices of the leaves These very soon 
assume a yellowish or gray hue, due to dissolution 
and extraction. Breeding goes on all the year under 
suitable circumstances. In winter, they seek the 
protection of sheltered positions, hiding away in dry 
crevices of walls, beneath the soil under hot-water 
pipes, and so on. Water and moisture they dislike, 
and it will be found that by untiring efforts with the 
syriDge and water-pot the advance of the red spider 
(Tetranychus telarius) will not be great. Dusting 
flowers of sulphur lightly over the foliage, or coating 
it on with a syringe, using also soft-soap, or by 
making a sulphur lather to coat the hot-water pipes 
with, alter having made them very hot, will cause a 
sulphury vapour to ascend to the destruction of the 
spiders. This latter work demands much care and 
judgment. 
The Age of Trees.—/. Fell, Hawick, N B.: It is 
generally accepted that the number of rings shown 
in the transverse section of a tree indicates the age 
of the latter. Climate, seasons, accidents, &c , may, 
however, make this method at times unreliable. 
The truest section should also be made at the real 
base of the tree. Our Dicotyledonous trees are 
built up in a series of cones, as it were, which are 
broadest at the base and gradually taper upward till 
they terminate in the annual growths at the top. 
Even with tropical Monocotyledons the resting or 
dry season and the growing or wet season are often 
or generally clearly enough marked. In the case of 
trees whose centres have decayed, you might make 
very rough calculations by comparing the proportions 
of its stoutest branches with the patriarchal trunk. 
Stiff Clay Soil. — Uncertain: Well, yes, as 
mentioned at p. 680, lime opens heavy soils and 
firms a light open one. You see each little grain of 
lime cements together so many of the grains or 
particles of clay or sand. So that with clay when 
the particles become adherent they form a soil of 
opener, coarser lumps, although still very fine. 
Now with a light soil, the sand grains are loose. 
By the action of lime they are joined, yet are still 
loose enough. So you see now that the same 
material answers exactly opposite cases by the same 
method. Clays can be improved by burning. Fire 
releases the silicates of alumina which become 
soluble, and these are then rendered capable of 
being acted on by air and water, from which they 
absorb oxygen, carbonic acid, &c. 
Cabbage Gall-Weevil. S. R., Berks. : The female 
lays her eggs on the roots of Cabbages, Turnips, &c., 
in early summer. In something like ten days the 
larvae hatch out, and by their sucking give rise' to 
