792 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
August 12, 1899. 
■L 
||ints for ||mateurs. 
Carnations.— It is now the time when once again the 
sharp edged knife flourishes, and the hone is fetched 
down from the shelf to keep that sharp edge keen 
upon the knife. The knee pads are likewise sought 
out and buckled od, and forth we go to the Carnation 
beds. Get soil ready first and place it conveniently 
between the plants. A barrow load of Beech leaf- 
mould, half a load of coarse sand, mixed with two 
loads of old potting soil of a light nature and the 
addition of a few spadefuls of fresh, free loam will 
make a suitable compost. Mix this well and place 
the compost upon the bed. Then for pegs, one may 
use the jointed branching stems of Bracken, or tough 
bent Hazel shoots, but perhaps best of all are the 
wire pegs made specially for Carnation layering. 
The operation of layering is then simple. Select the 
best shoots, those which are strong but not rampant, 
and having taken off some of the foliage notch them 
cleanly at a joint. In doing so grip the shoot in 
the left hand and slightly bend it with the thumb. 
The cut is thus easier to make and is more safely 
done. Keep the slit or notch in the shoot open by 
retaining the gentle bend, then press it into the spil; 
at the same time press the peg down just immediately 
below the cut, that is, towards the axis of the plant. 
On the proper forming of the layers very greatly 
depends the successful rooting of your shoots. Water 
them after having moulded the soil around the base 
and over the layered part of the shoots, and see that 
they never lack water. 
The choosing of Bulbs is a matter all of us like 
to understand. It is not always the case that the 
largest bulbs are the best for flowerirg purposes. 
At times the large bulbs are not sufficiently 
matured to be worth much. All the same if 
really firm, solid, ripened bulbs can be got, 
at least in Tulips, Narcissi, Crocus, Scillas 
and all the smaller bulbs, larger blooms and 
finer forms will certainly reward one. It is the 
enormous Hyacinth bulbs that I would ask the 
amateur to be wary of. We like one good stout 
spike to a bulb, not five or six smaller ones. Same 
varieties, notably King of the Blues, have a habit or 
fault of spouting into a galaxy of puny spikes, 
instead of bearing one symmetrical and dark coloured 
spike. Therefore choose firm and plump fresh-like 
Hyacinth bulbs of a medium size, and large, fresh 
and firm Tulips, Narcissi, Roman Hyacinths, and 
all the small bulbs. 
Mushroom Culture. — Very soon again will we 
have to think about making new Mushroom beds for 
winter use Mushrooms are a particularly choice 
delicacy and well appreciated. In the growing of 
them the quality of the manure is of the first im¬ 
portance. Of all the higher order of fungi, Mush¬ 
rooms are about the most particular in their choice 
of habitat. The only kind of manure found suitable 
to its growih, is horse manure and the qualities of 
this, when varied, is found to have its effect on the 
Mushroom crops. The richer the manure is in 
excrement and urine, the better it is. If the litter or 
stable dung be long or full of straw, the droppings 
must carefully be separated and only the finer parts 
of the straw retained. The manure from horses fed 
on grass, Carrots and other soft stuff, or where 
horses are frequently dosed with purgatives, the 
excrement is worthless for such cultural purposes. 
Racing horses, and others which have hard work to 
do and are fed on hard material, as Oats, yield 
the very best Mushroom dung When the proper 
quantity of dung has been got together for 
filling the bed or box, or pot, whatever it may be, it 
must be carefully prepared. Mound it up and leave 
it till it briskly ferments. If it becomes too hot — 
a fiery, dry heat—open it out, spread it about so that 
only a moderate fermentation is sustained. After 
from five to eight days from the time of making up 
the mound, the first turning should be given. In 
doing so, shake it well up and leave it loose. In 
two days more, again aerate it, and continue every 
second day or oftener for ten or fourteen days longer. 
Moisture may sometimes be required to make up for 
that lost by evaporation. It is in good usable con¬ 
dition when it can be pressed firmly in the hand and 
remains firm, also neither too moist, or too dry, just 
damp. 
The best Mushroom houses are those sunk below 
the ground a bit, with thatched roof, slate-formed 
beds, clay paths, and a double flow and return of 
piping. But do not think that such conditions are 
absolutely necessary. Any dark,well sheltered house, 
capable of etaining a temperature of 6o° in winter, 
will answer the purpose. And pots, boxes, and 
other things may be used in place of slate beds. 
Well, whatever you use, be sure of careful filling. 
Ram and beat or tread each basketful you put in. 
The slate beds should be about 2j ft. deep, and are 
filled up to within i in. or 2 in. of the top. Then 
when all is finished the bed is left till the height of its 
temperature has been reached. The spawn is put in 
5 in. or 6 in. apart all over the be d, about 4 in. deep 
and in sizes like Walnuts. After various trials I 
prefer Cuthbert's Specialite Mushroom spawn. Over 
the manure after spawning lay a 2-in. layer of good 
loam, making it even and firm. Watering may or may 
not be necessary, most likely it will be. In ten weeks 
from the time of spawning the young heads of the 
Mushrooms should be appearing. Everything 
should be done to maintain a steady temperature 
and a saturated atmosphere. A coating of straw 
over the surface of the beds helps to retain 
equability. 
Effect of Light on Growth.— All forms of vegeta¬ 
tion, except the very lowest, require for growth a 
certain amount of light. Without light we do not 
find plants growing healthily. In its absence they 
become etiolated (blanched), are more or less of a 
sickly white appearance, and totally devoid of the 
greenness found in healthy foliage. Light acts on 
the chlorophyll or green matter of plants, and on the 
other internal matters. The chlorophyll grains or 
corpuscles combine the raw elements pumped up 
from the roots, but without light these little engines 
cannot work. Exposed to green light plants make 
least progress. Red-rayed light is said to cause the 
maximum of assimilation, and consequently speedi¬ 
est growth. The violet ray has the greatest 
chemical (actinic) effect, and it was to prove how far 
this power was exercised that the late Mr. William 
Thomson had each alternate row of glass-panes in 
a vinery at Clovenfords, Galashiels, N.B., filled with 
violet coloured glass. We all know of the blessed 
effect solar light has in colouring fruits. This comes 
from the properties which the actinic (chemical) and 
heat rays possess for working changes in the cell- 
contents of the flesh and epidermis of the fruit. 
Light, of course, also effects the strength of the 
wood growth of trees, causing them to increase the 
stores of nutriment in the cambium layers of the 
stem, and to firm and " ripen ” the previously 
formed structure and deposits. Soft or shaded light 
favours germination. 
Marketing of Fruits. — It may be that some 
amateur gardeners have more fruit than they have 
need for, and as money is always acceptable, it may 
be that a part of their produce is to be marketed. 
If you do not sell, then forget not your poorer 
friends. But for ihose who may for the time turn 
market men, I would offer the following bints as 
worth attention: —(1) Gather fruit at the right 
time, that is, before they are fully ripened; (2) 
Handle them carefully, quickly, but not more than 
needful; (3) Pack carefully, and all of one assorted 
size ; do not deceive ; (4) Brand your packages true 
to name and grade ; (5) Do not hold, but sell; have 
rapid transport, and try to understand the best 
market; (6) Be your own salesman. 
The Root-knot Eel-Worm. —(Heterodera radici- 
cola). The Root Eel-worm is closely related to the 
Stem Eel-worm (Tylenchus devastatrix), being like 
this latter in having microscopical dimensions, The 
males of both are much alike, measuring about a 
twenty-fifth of an inch. The females which are eel¬ 
shaped at a certain period, become variously dis¬ 
tended in motherhood. Cucumbers and Tomatos 
are at times badly attacked, the first signs of which 
are the flagging and curling of the leaves. Then if 
the disease extends at all rapidly the plants stop 
growth and some may altogether succumb. At any 
rate it is a pest to be got rid of. Applications of Car¬ 
bolic acid af the rate of 32 ozs. per 15 cubic ft. will 
keep the pest from becoming vigorous. Phenyle 
solutions have also been tried with, it is reported, 
good results. Cleanliness, of course, is of first 
importance, and after an attack, all old plants and 
roots should be burned, the soil being also disposed 
of. 
Present Work. —Budding of Roses and fruit trees 
as already described will yet be in operation. Straw¬ 
berry layering also has been discussed. Carnations 
are now being layered. Crops have to be gathered 
and stored. If the fruit room has not yet been used, 
see to its condition, air it and clean it. Re-arrange 
the flowering-houses as needs require. A house in 
order saves much time and trouble. See about 
ordering bulbs, and plan out what will be needed 
in the way of fruit trees, Roses, shrubs, &c., 
for October planting. Note the lists of 
advertised new Strawberries, &c., for securing 
such if desired. Keep all the grounds, lawns, 
and beds clean and spruce, and insect pests 
at bay. Attend carefully to the young stock of 
Violets, which will be planted into their winter 
frames next month. The earliest of the Chrysanth¬ 
emum buds are now setting. With the smaller busby 
varieties, do not disbud too much. Indoor fruit crops 
which are ripening either crops or wood growth must 
have light aad air and other attention in no confined 
form.— Beacon. 
■ « ! « ■ 
Correspondence. 
Questions ashed by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening will be answered on this page. 
Anyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
"Amateurs' Page " on the top of their letters. 
Lilium giganteum on dry soil.— H. Mottram, 
Lanark : We never heard of this Lily doing well out, 
doors away there in Scotland, except under the 
shelter of frames or on the warm west coast. It is a 
native of Nepaul yet has the name of being among the 
hardiest of Liliums. You may try it but let the 
position be sheltered; and shady. Take out a large 
amount of the poor soil and put in green manure, 
peat, moss, or peat and turf, leaf soil and manures or 
anything like this which you have. Ram it well and 
break it finely. Mix soil among the manures and 
have some good soil for planting the bulbs in. They 
can be planted in autumn and then covered over with 
leaves. This species is quite distinct and highly 
ornamental. 
Arranging a Greenhouse.— C. Luce, Stafford: You 
would find it of great advantage to consign such huge, 
fan shaped Fuchsias as you mention to the rubbish 
heap. Indeed with a small house such as I gather 
yours is, all your stock should be of limited size, 
but fresh and well trained. Sound and well painted 
staging should be a first consideration, then by plac¬ 
ing the largest plants on the topmost central 
stages and the dwarfer ones on the lower stages, 
less disorder and more beauty and comfort will be the 
result, You may have to use inverted flower pots or 
• get some wooden pedestals to raise up some of the 
plants which will apper to best advantage in a 
certain condition or pose and by variously arranging 
your plants you will find out the best fitting for them 
and the most pleasing combinations when they are 
all s'aged. 
Worms in Pots.— L. T., Midlands-. Rather than 
fritter away time in watering with lime-water, cr 
any of the chemical solutions we might mention, 
which are effective if properly applied in certain 
proportions but dangerous otherwise, we would draw 
your attention to Mr. Porter’s patent crocks, which 
exclude all insects, slugs or worms we ever knew of. 
Stone House, Maidstone, will find him. 
“Cat’s Teeth" Strawberry Runners.—This is 
a term applied to the very smallest runners, just 
when they are in that stage where some half a dozen 
of the moderately thick white roots are dipping into 
the soil,at which time they are remarkably suggestive 
of cat’s teeth. We believe Mr. D. Thomson first 
gave them this title. For amateur gardeners with 
small space at command and wishing to keep up an 
annual stock it is necessary to take these little 
runners and grow them on in a frame. Thus they 
sooner make strong plants. 
Yiolets.— L. G., Gosport : You will find the second 
week of next month soon enough to transfer your 
Violets from their open quarters to the frames. You 
will observe further hints on this subject in the near 
future. 
The Hybridising of Ferns.— A. Mackie, Edinburgh-. 
The hybridising or crossing of Ferns is more a 
