822 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
August 26, 1899. 
JflNTS FOR UmATEURS. 
I promised last week to continue the brief hints on 
bulbs. I could not do better than introduce the 
little Winter Aconite, 
Eranthus hyemalis. —It seems to be able to brave 
anything, and has few dislikes. Seldom growing 
more than 3 in. or 4 in. high, this sweet little yellow- 
flowered Buttercup-like plant with a shining fringed 
green collar can yet give us much to admire. It 
succeeds in grim town gardens ; it will flourish on a 
moist though Dot damp loam ; and we find it throw¬ 
ing up well even on a poor and exposed border, or 
under trees. It can be planted now, putting the 
rhizomes down about 3 in. 
Eremurus— It is just possible that many of our 
amateur friends have not got these fine plants in 
their collections. If they have, they will know 
to recommend them to any who like tall, massive 
spikes of bloom in the borders. They do not bloom, 
it is true, until about the end of May, but even then 
we have none too many flowers. Nothing is more 
distinct or gives a greater tone of value and dignity 
to the outdoor garden than to see pink or while 
spikes, such as varieties of the Eremurus have, 
shooting up to a height of 5 ft. and 6 ft. E. hima- 
liicus is one of the dwarfest ; and E. robustus and 
E. spectabilis are excellent varieties. Given a bed 
in any ordinary soil, light and rich, if possible, with 
some slight protection in winter, they are plants 
seldom surpassed. Plant now, and increase estab¬ 
lished stock by division. Coming again to a dwarf 
class let us for a moment deal with the Erythronium 
Dens canis or 
Dog's-Tooth Yjolets — Some writers advocate 
their use on grass land, but I cannot say I ever saw 
them to any great advantage in such setting. Possibly 
some reader may favour others who are interested, 
with their knowledge of how these lovely and much 
spoken of plants succeed according to his or her 
observations. I have grown them for years on a 
very warm south border of light, rich soil. They 
receive an annual top-dressing of short dung. The 
formsand colours vary remarkably ; while even if they 
do not bloom,their beautiful maculated foliage is alone 
worth the having. They are best when broken up 
after the leaves die down and replanted, although 
any time in autumn will do equally well. It seems 
hardly necessary to have anything to say about the 
treatment of Lily-of-the-Valley. It should be pro¬ 
cured when the foliage dies down, and planted in 
beds 4 ft. wide. Beds are made up and small 
trenches are cut out against a firm set line, using 
spades. The crowns can then be laid evenly a l 
along, and afterwards made firm. Or for Christmas 
blooming, have crowns potted up and ready to start 
by November. Lily-of-the-Valley loves shade and 
moisture, although it succeeds in many positions and 
under different conditions. 
Tulips—No word of introduction or other com¬ 
ment is needed here. The genus Tulipa is a study 
by itself. As regards cultural treatment let it be 
known that it likes a deep rich soil. If it be light, 
or, rather let me say free, and yet moist, then so 
much the better will the returns be. The bulks 
should be planted at the end of October or there¬ 
abouts. Allow them 9 ins. between each other and 
the rows 1 ft. apart. Plant 4 ins. deep. For pot 
culture, from three to six may be put into 6-in. 
pots, the general treatment after which will be as 
for Hyacinths. Some growers may regard a bed of 
Hyacinths or Tulips as too formal and stiff. These 
effects can be overcome by introducing such plants 
as Doronicum plantagineum, or instead of planting 
e very space in the rows with the Tulips, or Hyacinths, 
insert at intervals a good Narcissus bulb. These are 
more to be recommended for beds of Hyacinths be¬ 
cause the Narcissus combines rather better with the 
lower spikes of bloom. Tulips seem richest in 
masses of one variety without any relieving plants. 
Crown Imperials.—These are bulbous plants 
whose identity seems, in my own case at least, to be 
strangely mixed up with earlier days. The Fritil- 
laria imperalis and others of the tribe are among a 
list of the most strikingly beautiful plants of early 
springtime. But it appears as though all our spring 
bulbs are perfection. 
The actual site preferred by them, I think is of little 
moment, although where a sunny, well-drained rich 
border can be given, then let nothing prevent their 
being put there. They had better be planted in 
clumps of four or five, about 6 in. apart each way. 
Feeding them just when they are sending up their 
shoots, aids them to the perfecting of handsomer 
growth and blooms. When grown in pots, give them a 
fibrous compost with sand, and afterwards some peat 
and leaf mould. Place them in a cold frame and 
when they have started, take them to a cool con¬ 
servatory. In the open border, protect them in 
winter. 
The Early Little Crocus, blooming so brightly and 
making the outdoor rambles so pleasant, and instil¬ 
ling in the mind hopeful thoughts when summer, 
which is synonymous with peace and plenty every¬ 
where around us, they (the little Crocuses) and we 
may also add, Snowdrops, surely ought to be accept¬ 
able even to the least considerate in regard to plants 
and flowers. On the grass, or in beds and lines in 
the borders, they are both exceedingly fine. The 
only demand made is for a light,, dry soil. (When 
I say dry I do not imply the dryness of dusty ground, 
but that the soil is one which does not hold very 
much water, or does not absorb much. We want 
a medium which will contain enough for present 
needs and be able to get more from below if required ) 
Plant the little bulbs early in September in such 
places as you ail have seen them doing well in. 
Leave them undisturbed for some years—three or 
four—whence they need to be broken up and re¬ 
planted. They may be increased by offsets or seeds. 
The Autumn Crocuses should be planted this month. 
There is no call for naming what varieties to grow. 
Mixed lots can be had cheaply. 
Ornithogalum umbellatum is yet another of the 
fine hardy bulbs we have. To have it do well, how¬ 
ever, it will be found best to give it all the shelter 
po s'ble. A light humic soil on a sheltered south 
border will answer. Plant them 4 ins. deep. The 
little Chionodoxa Luciliae, and the Scillas or Squills, 
all of which are intensely blue and very beautiful, 
are more so if there happens to be a coating of 
snow on the ground below them. 
But now we will for the present leave the bulbs, 
and centre a few hints upon the preparation of the 
Violet frames. 
Violets—Wherever these plants are found to 
succeed I would recommend amateurs, or any one 
else, to prepare a frame for a winter supply. But 
they have so many little fads that in some districts 
no amount of care or different methods of culture 
ever give any success. One thing is certain, and that 
is, tl at they like and must have certain conditions 
of atmosphere. A moderately cool, fresh yet soft 
air, aTd a half shaded position, are the conditions 
so far as I can reason, under which they thrive 
te>t. Weil; allow them a frame, either brick or 
wood built, with sound sashes, entirely drip-proof, 
and facing south. This is, of course, for the winter 
and spring seasons. Secure a load or two of leaves 
and mix them with so much stable dung. Let them 
ferment for some time, and then pack them as firmly 
into the frame as ever you are capable of. The 
leaves never become so highly heated as dung alone 
would do And when the whole body of leaves and 
dung is so lightly rammed, the fermentation is lasting 
and steady, rather than passing and iotense. Allow 
this body of material to lie for about ten days before 
you add a soil compost. Allow two or slightly 
more than two parts of solid but fibrous loam, fresh 
if possible, and one good part of Beech leaf mould, 
also some finely broken lime rubble and sand. Mix 
these and lay a layer ft. deep over the lower 
matter. Have the soil raised in the first instance 
close up to the sashes, and when it has sunk 6 in. or 8 
in the plants may be put in. Place them 9 in. or 1 ft. 
apart each way. Do not plant too deep; do not 
plant too high. This reads as though one must be 
very careful; and so must this operation be done. 
Make good openings with a trowel for your plants 
and see that the roots are properly spread out. 
Leave them uncovered so loDg as no severe weather 
threatens, and keep off all side runners so long as 
flowers are wanted.— Beacon. 
Correspondence. 
Questions asked by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening will be answered on this page. 
A nyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
“Amateurs' Page ” on the top of their letters. 
Cuttings of Clematis.— Subscriber : You may strike 
Clematis cuttings at any time, provided you get 
half-ripened young shoots. Or just now when the 
wood is becoming firm, the eyes may be potted 
firmly, but not at all deep in thumb pots. Given the 
slight heat of a propagating case and kept close and 
moist both roots and shoots will soon start. When 
this happens take them by degrees to the cool shelf 
of a greenhouse. Work up the stock till it is fit for 
planting. Try layering. It answers perfectly. Loosen 
a shoot or two, and after slightly notching them peg 
them into light soil. Root grafting is perhaps the 
commonest method of propagation. Thick sound 
portions of the roots of such hardy varieties as C. 
Flammula and C. Vitalba are selected, slit open, and 
then scions from Clematis shoots are inserted. A 
large stock is thus soon gained. As to the culture of 
Clematises (hardy Jackmannii types, we suppose) and 
of Ampelopsis Veitchii (or more correctly, Vitis varia- 
bilis, alias Vitis japonica), whose propagation may 
be effected by layering or by cuttings taken now and 
struck under glass, no great exactions are demanded. 
For both, a free, rich, well-drained soil is best, and 
the roots should be rather confined at first. Make 
the soil firm and keep well watered. Allow both a 
sunny position. 
Making Asparagus Bed. — Ibid : You need be in no 
anxiety about this just now. April is the time, just 
after the plants have begun to shoot. For makiDg a 
bed or planting of Seakale we recommend March if 
rooted slips are to be put in. 
Salvias and Pentstemons.— J. Pearson, Bonny- 
brook: Both of these plants stand out well in 
sheltered places if in a warm dry soil. Probably it 
is safest to lift and box the Salvias. The dead 
stems of the Pentstemons should be left till spring. 
They help to protect the roots. 
Cucumbers Sour.— 5 . Stout, Peebles: We have 
more than once been put off from eatiDg any more 
of tome Cucumbers given us. We would give the 
reason as imperfect elaboration of the juices in the 
fruits. This would often be obviated by lessened 
feeding, and a higher temperature. 
Verbenas, &c., in Winter.— R. Simpson : Rooted 
cuttiDgs of Salvias, Verbenas, Calceolarias, Violas, 
Pansies, and most of suchlike soft stuff may be kept 
all winter in a cold frame if well matted up. The 
blue African Liiies (Agapanthus umbsllatus), 
Fuchsias, Aloes, Agaves, and other plants which re¬ 
main dormant through the winter may be kept sa f e 
in a cool, dry shed 
Barren Fruit Trees. — G. N., Bishop's Stortford : 
You mention Apples, Pears, and Cherries, but men¬ 
tion next to nothing about the site they occupy, or the 
condition of the wood growth. Well, all three 
kinds like a medium loamy soil, with good drainage. 
The Pears and Apples do always best in a warm, 
sunny position. Cnerries miy be on a west or a 
north wall. Morello Cherries generally occupy this 
position. Then about the middle of next month 
you could hardly do wrong if you carefully lifted the 
trees, or at least dug a trench around them to root 
prune. Replace the roots very carefully, at the 
same time add free, rich soil, and give them a good 
watering. The year's wood growth will have been 
shortened if previous hints have been followed out. 
Heating a Small Greenhouse.—S.: A whitesmith 
wouli be able to say whether you could take a pipe 
from your wash-house copper or not. The greatest 
drawback, we fancy, may be that the house is lower 
than the copper. A flow and return will be 
sufficient. 
Strawberries.— J. Wright : If you wish a crop of 
large and nice fruits next year from plants taken this 
season your plantation had better be made now. 
Mr. Carmichael, of Edinburgh (ex-head gardener to 
H.R.H. the Prince of Wales), had a very timely 
article in the issue for August 5th, on the culture 
of this splendid fruit. 
Dahlias. — D. : Our opinion is that the large show 
Dahlias will more and more decline from favour. 
The small pompons are very useful and neat in many 
ways, so that they may last longer in appreciation. 
