136 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
October 31, 1896. 
I NTS FOR MMATEURS. 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS 
Amongst professional gardeners the Chrysanthe¬ 
mum fever is now rampant, for the Autumn Queen 
is summoning her court with an imperious haste that 
brooks no delay, and staid, orderly, cultivators are 
bracing themselves for the struggle, whilst others are 
tasting the sweets of victory or the pangs of defeat at 
the earlier meetings. Amateur gardeners too are in 
the thick of the melee, and are every whit as strenuous, 
as anxious, and as jealous as the professional 
element. It is questionable, indeed, if there is 
another flower into the cultivation of which the. 
amateur throws so much of his heart and soul as the 
Chrysanthemum. Violas and Carnations and Roses 
are grown, and grown well too, in their hundreds of 
thousands by the cottage and villa holder in all parts 
of the country, and many a garden is rendered 
beautiful thereby, but each of these favourites has 
its own season and the amount of fostering care 
and attention that they each receive in no way 
diminishes the wealth o/ love that is lavished upon 
the Chrysanthemum, but rather increases it, for it 
implants the idea in the heart of the people that 
flowers of some sort are necessary in autumn and 
winter as well as in summer, and the Chrysanthe¬ 
mum is the only flower that has proved itself equal 
to the emergency of stepping into the gap, and 
flooding the dark days of autumn with a beauty as 
brilliant as a dream although scarcely so evanes¬ 
cent. 
Decorative Plants —The so-called decorative 
section has come into special favour of late years, 
and there is yet room for other good varieties 
possessing such qualities as dwarfness and natural 
bushiness of habit with freedom of flowering. It is 
also important that the flower stems should be stout 
and capable of holding the flowers erect. Colour is 
one of the chief considerations, size of bloom being 
of but little moment. Bush plants which have not 
been disbudded are of great value, and the amount 
of flower a well-developed plant will furnish is 
really wonderful. Two-year-old plants will render 
good service in this way, and will even beat the 
younger ones as to quantity of flower. 
Plants out-of-doors. —In most gardens a few 
Chry santhemums are planted out-of-doors to take 
care of themselves. If we get early frosts, i.e. about 
the middle of September it is only very early varieties 
of the Madame Desgranges and George Wermig type 
that have time to flower ; the others are spoiled just 
as their flower buds are showing nicely. In a season 
like the present, however, where we have been free 
from frost or nearly so, up to the end of October, 
mid-season varieties have had a chance to show what 
they can do. It will be well worth while to give 
these plants some protection now. If they are 
growing in the shelter of a wall, the matter is much 
simplified as a few nails driven into the wall will be 
sufficient to hang a few yards of tiffany or some mats 
on. If the plants are in the open ground a few stout 
bean stakes pushed in firmly around them, their ends 
coming together cone fashion at the top, will make a 
light and inexpensive frame work to support the 
covering materials. 
Single Varieties. —No matter whether they are 
grown in the open ground or in pots, a few plants of 
single varieties should be in every collection, how¬ 
ever small. Such sorts as Miss Rose, and Miss 
Mary Anderson, are really gems, and as they are 
naturally of dwarf habit, and very floriferous they 
come in splendidly for conservatory decoration. 
We have seen very dwarf plants of Miss Rose 
blooming away as happily as possible in a cottage 
window. Visitors to Kew Gardens will remember 
how conspicuous this variety is in greenhouse No. 
IV. in the autumn months. 
Dwarf Singles. — Ordinary plants, unless of 
exceptionally dwarf habit, are too large for other 
than big windows, as they exclude too much light 
from the room. Excellent material for the decora¬ 
tion of the window, or for the filling of small vases 
may be obtained by striking cuttings in July. The 
tops may be taken from growing plants, and inserted 
four in a 4-in. pot. These cuttings strike readily if 
placed under a handlight, and kept closely shaded. 
They will not need any further potting, for the 
cutting pots will be large enough for the plants to 
flower in. Manure water may be given when the 
pots are filled with roots. By this means some 
pretty little stuff from 10 in. to 15 in. in height may 
be obtained. 
Forward Show Blooms —It often happens that 
one or two blooms have not been timed just exactly 
to suit the show at which it is desired that they 
should officiate. Such blooms will keep well if cut 
with long stalks and placed in water in a cool room 
until required. The difficulty of being too soon may 
therefore be easily surmounted in this way—much 
more easily in fact than that of being too late, for 
Chrysanthemums do not take kindly to being pushed 
on. 
WATERING. 
The use of the watering-can requires a great deal of 
care and discretion now. Plants that are being kept 
in cold frames will not need much water; many of 
them will go, indeed, for three or four consecutive 
weeks without any other moisture than that which 
they get from the atmosphere, which at this season 
is very close to saturation point. A rose-can must 
not be employed now, for that would result in the 
foliage being wetted, and this in its turn would bring 
on damping of the leaves and succulent stems. 
Damp is the Greatest Enemy that plagues the 
gardener at this season of the year, and how to 
prevent it is the question that exercises the minds of 
all careful cultivators Next to the exercise of 
discretion in the use of the watering-can—a discretion 
indeed that is apt to err on the side of giving too 
little water rather than too much—ventilation is the 
main consideration. Plants in cold frames must not 
be coddled too much. Air should be given in 
quantities, according to the nature of the plant, 
whenever the weather is as mild and open as it is at 
present. The lights may be simply pushed down in 
dry weather, but when it rains the lights must be 
tilted up at the back by the insertion of a brick or a 
block of wood. This will admit the necessary air 
whilst excluding the unnecessary rain. 
Light is of the greatest value now to plant life, 
and steps should be taken to see that none of the 
plants are robbed of any of their due. If the glass 
is dirty it must be washed, and if the advent of frost 
renders the application of protective material 
necessary the frames must be uncovered as soon as 
the thermometer stands above 32 0 Fahr. All decay¬ 
ing leaves or pieces of stems should be removed as 
soon as seen, and absolute cleanliness from filth 
must be preserved. If these few simple precautions 
are carried out faithfully a great deal of trouble, and, 
perhaps, not a little disappointment may be spared 
the cultivator. 
Anemones —Whether planted in small beds by 
themselves or in isolated clumps close to the edge of 
the herbaceous border, the tuberous-rooted 
Anemones are well worthy the place they occupy. 
Any ordinary garden soil will suit them well, and by 
the sides of paths, or in sheltered nooks close to 
shrubberies, the commoner sorts will appear to great 
advantage. A light sandy loam is really what they 
like best, and they are also very fond of a sheltered 
position. In all cases the drainage should be ample. 
Planting may be conducted at almost any time 
between the end of September and the beginning of 
March, and if they do fairly well they may be left 
undisturbed for several years. It may be stated at 
the outset that Anemones are very good tempered 
plants, and amateurs may well take them up. 
The above remarks will apply to the commoner 
varieties, from which an excellent result may be 
obtained with the minimum of trouble. Those culti¬ 
vators, however, who believe in doing things 
thoroughly, and make a hobby of growing Anemones, 
often go to a great deal more trouble than would be 
entailed by planting in the ordinary simple way. If 
the soil is not considered to be just the thing.it is 
straightway dug out to the depth of 2 ft., and 
replaced by a rich loamy compost. This may be 
regarded as going to the extreme. A medium course 
is to manure the ground well, and dig it over deeply. 
About 6 in. of space should be allowed each way 
between the tubers, and they may be buried to the 
depth of 3 in. When planting in clumps, the trowel 
will be found to be the handiest tool to use. Where 
it is necessary to have the plants in flower as nearly 
as possible at the same time, however, a little care 
is necessary to see that the tubers are all planted at 
a uniform depth, for if a few are buried deeper than 
the others, as may well happen if the trowel is used, 
they will most assuredly be later in flowering than 
the rest. When planting whole beds, therefore, it 
is the best plan to draw drills of the depth, and at 
the distance apart, mentioned above, and then the 
tubers will be sure to be all treated alike. 
By planting in several batches at intervals from 
the present time up till January, a grand succession 
of bloom will be forthcoming. If a succession is not 
needed, the whole stock may be planted now, or as 
soon as the places can be got in readiness for them. 
If the soil is very heavy and retentive, it will be wise 
to wait for another couple of months before planting, 
especially if the tubers are very precious.— Rex. 
-- 
Correspondence. 
Questions asked by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening will be answered on this page. 
A nyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
“Amateurs' Page " on the top of their letters. 
Grapes.—Black Hamburgh is the best Grape that 
you can possibly grow, El Nathan, and we have no 
doubt that you will be fully satisfied with it. Foster's 
Seedling will do for a white variety. Muscat of 
Alexandria we would warn you will present greater 
difficulties to grow well. It needs more heat than 
the two first-named sorts. Its flavour, of course, is 
superb, for those who like Muscat-flavoured Grapes. 
Lobelia pumila magnifica.— H. has been some¬ 
what tardy in looking up his stock of Lobelias, and 
has only recently put in some cuttings. The cut¬ 
tings are inserted in boxes and placed in his green¬ 
house, which, be says, never falls below 40° Fahr. 
He asks if the cuttings will root ? 
Of that we are very doubtful. They should have 
been put in a couple of months ago in a gentle heat. 
We should not advise him to put many hopes upon 
them now. It would be advisable to lift some of the 
old plants, cut the old flowering growths off with a 
sharp knife, and pot or box the roots up in rather 
dry soil. Place them on a shelf in the greenhouse 
as near to the glass as possible, and do not give 
them any water yet. A cold frame would be too 
damp, and the plants would go off. 
Vines holding their leaYes.— Forcing the leaves 
of the Vines will not do, but you may shorten the 
growths back, i.e., cut away about half of them, with¬ 
out any injury to the Vines, and with a good deal of 
benefit to the plants beneath. 
A Loughborough boiler will answer your purpose 
exactly, L. A. They may be had in all sizes, from 
very small ones suitable for houses that are little 
more than frames up to roomy structures. The 
cost of fixing them is small. 
Japanese Chrysanthemums — Viviand Morel and 
Charles Davis are two of the very best Japanese 
varieties in cultivation, B., and they will be almost 
sure to find a place in the first-prize collection at the 
majority of forthcoming Chrysanthemum shows 
throughout the country. 
Keeping Grapes.—This may be easily &one,J.Adams. 
You will need as many bottles as you have bunches. 
Ordinary pint, or pint-and-a-half bottles will do, but 
they must have broad substantial bases, for reasons 
which will be obvious presently. Put a small lump 
of charcoal in each bottle, and fill up with clean soft 
water. The bunches must be cut with about six 
inches of wood below, and three inches above the 
point of attachment. Trim off all the leaves, and 
insert the bare stem in the bottles. Unless the 
bunches are very heavy, the bottles, if they have 
broad bases will stand without support. The bottles 
must be kept filled with water, as the latter becomes 
absorbed. A cool dark room is necessary, and in 
such a position the bunches will keep for a long time 
without spoiling. 
Caladiums.—The Caladiums of which you speak 
as being planted out in a border under glass, X, will 
not need to bo lifted. They may be allowed to 
remain where they are until spring, when they will 
come up as right as possible. The border should 
not be kept too wet, of course. 
Storing Fuchsias.—Lay your Fuchsias on their 
sides underneath the greenhouse stage. Do not put 
them in close proximity to the hot water pipes, 
otherwise the wood will shrivel. Under ordinary 
conditions they may be allowed to remain without 
water until they show signs of breaking into growth. 
That will be the time to prune them—not now. 
