November 28, 1896. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
199 
PLANTS RECENTLY CERTIFICATED. 
First-class Certificates were accorded to the 
undermentioned Chrysanthemums by the National 
Chrysanthemum Society on the 18th inst. 
Sunstone. —This is a Japanese variety of large 
size, and very full though rather light in colour* 
being of a clear soft yellow in the centre, fading to a 
paler tint towards the circumference. It is of 
American origin. Mr. Norman Davis, Framfield, 
Sussex. 
Mme. Paul Lacroix. —For description, seep. 183. 
Three fine blooms were shown by Mr. P. O. 
Knowles, gardener to F. C. Crisp, Esq., Henley-on- 
Thames. 
Simplicity. —Here again we have a Japanese 
variety with long reflexed, pure white florets of 
moderate width and handsome in appearance: The 
bloom is of large size. Mr. Norman Davis. 
Joseph Brooks. —This Japanese variety varies in 
colour between yellow and apricot, paler or darker, 
according to the bud which is taken, probably. It 
is novel and promising. W. Seward, Esq. 
(gardener, Mr. J. Shrimpton) Hanwell, Middlesex. 
Mr. A. G. Hubbuck — A massive Japanese variety 
with long, narrow, drooping florets, the colour of 
which no two authorities, apparently, are agreed 
upon; chestnut-red, carmine-amaranth and orange- 
crimson are some of the epithets applied to it. Mr 
H. J. Jones, Ryecroft Nursery, Lewisham, raised it 
in 1894, and on this occasion exhibited some 
blooms; but Mr. W. H. Lees, The Gardens, Trent 
Park, Barnet, staged better blooms and had the 
honour of the First-class Certificate. We note, how¬ 
ever, that the National Chrysanthemum Society's 
Official Catalogue, (Jubilee edition) records that it 
previously had that award. 
Mrs. Marling Grant. —The long, outer, reflexed 
florets of this Japanese variety are deep apricot, 
fading to a paler hue towards the centre of the 
bloom. It is said to be a seedling from Gloire du 
Rocher. Mr. W. Jinks, the Gardens, The Beeches, 
Walton-on-Thames. 
Asparagus. —Where first-class vegetables are in 
regular demand throughout the winter months, a 
good supply of Asparagus always gives satisfaction. 
"The principal point in securing strong heads of this 
vegetable is in having good four or five-year-old 
roots to place in the forcing frame. At this age the 
crowns can be packed very closely, and the produce 
will be greater and more lasting than from older 
roots. The materials for the hot-bed should be 
composed of one part long dung and two parts of 
leaves, in sufficient bulk to maintain a temperature 
of 6o° to 70° for some time. Over this place 6 in. of 
light rich soil, and on this the crowns must be 
placed, taking care not to damage the roots during 
the operation. Another layer of sifted vegetable 
mould should be placed over the crowns to the depth 
of 2 in , and well watered through a coarse rose tc 
settle the soil firmly around the roots. Another inch 
of soil may be added after the watering. The 
frame should be kept closed until growth appears, 
when full light and ventilation will be needed to give 
flavour to the heads of growth. 
Seakale. —The whole stock of this should be 
lifted and trimmed, ready for placing in heat at any 
time. The crowns can be laid in any light soil and 
covered with a few inches of leaves to keep out 
frost. The strongest roots must be saved for cut¬ 
tings and placed under some damp litter ready for 
cutting into sets during bad weather. Early growth 
and high culture during summer generally give fine 
roots for early forcing, and those having the most 
prominent crowns should be selected for placing in 
heat first. Any dark warm place is generally recom¬ 
mended as being good enough to force this vege¬ 
table, but the produce is generally tough, owing to a 
lack of sufficient atmospheric moisture. A good 
plan to produce heads of the best quality, is to dig out 
a bed about 4 ft. wide and 2 ft. deep, filling this with 
dung and leaves (previously prepared by being well- 
blended and sweetened) to within a few inches of the 
surface. Place the crowns in some light rich mould, 
and cover them an inch or two deep with some c'ean 
leaves. Some boards 10 in. deep placed round the 
bed and covered wiih skeleton frames and a layer of 
old mats, with some long litter over all, will produce 
Seakale of the best quality. 
Mushrooms. —These will be more esteemed as 
the winter season advances, and fresh beds should 
be made up at regular intervals according to the 
demand. This will entail constant attendance to 
keep up a regular supply of droppings, which should 
be frequently turned and sweetened, to get them 
into the best condition for forming into beds. It will 
be an advantage to have the manure under cover in 
an open shed when preparing it for the beds. Old 
beds that have been in bearing sometime, may be 
revived by a watering of cow manure, clear soot- 
water, or a weak solution of salt and water. Beds 
in bearing outdoors will need to be well protected 
now, and any operations, such as gathering, should 
be done as quickly as possible to prevent loss of 
heat. 
Rhubarb. —To ensure early prodnce, a slight hot¬ 
bed should be made in a shed or cellar, and on this 
the roots must be laid, burying them to the depth of 
two inches to ensure moisture around the crowns, 
and covering the latter with large pots or deep boxes. 
Any odd corners on the floor of a forcing house, or 
under the stages, may also be used for forwarding 
this crop. The early kinds such as Champagne and 
Early Albert should be selected for forcing. 
Frames, containing Lettuces, Cauliflowers, 
Radishes, and Parsley must be freely ventilated 
during fine weather, and any decaying foliage should 
be removed at once. Seedling Lettuces should be 
examined at the collar, and if any decay is 
observable a sprinkling of fine wood-ashes should be 
carefully placed around them.— J. R. 
THE ORCHID HOUSES. 
Oncidium varicosum. —When well grown this is a 
most beautiful species, producing long branching 
racemes or panicles of its bright yellow flowers during 
the dull months of November and December. It is 
somewhat difficult to keep in good condition for any 
length of time; especially so is this the case if 
allowed to carry the flowers until they fade. 
There is no better place for them during winter 
than the Cattleya house; but during the summer 
they do well at the warmest and brightest end of the 
cool division. Here they do not get infested so much 
with the little white scale, which, if left to its own 
resources, soon plays sad havoc with them. 
Baskets or rafts are the most suitable re¬ 
ceptacles in which to grow them ; for they delight 
in plenty of air about their roots. The compost 
should consist of good fibrous peat, and sphagnum 
moss in equal parts, with pieces of crocks ; the 
whole being placed loosely about the roots, first 
securing the plant firmly to the basket or raft by the 
aid of copper wire. 
They require plenty of moisture at the roots 
during the growing season, and at no time should 
they be allowed to shrivel; and for that reason we 
prefer a course of cool treatment after the flowers are 
cut and the plants are taking a slight rest. 
Cal anthes. —These winter favourites will soon be 
coming into flower, and must therefore be afforded 
a light airy position and a temperature of about 65°. A 
shelf in the stove suits them admirably, but in syring¬ 
ing the other occupants do not let it reach the 
Calanthe spikes; this, with the temperature some¬ 
times running lower than advised, causes the bracts 
to turn black, which cripples the flowers. Too much 
water at the roots will also have a like effect. Just 
keeping the soil from becoming dust dry is all that 
is needed. 
Dendrobiums for supplying flowers for the new 
year should be removed from their resting place, and 
placed in heat. D. nobile stands first on account of 
its cut-and-come-again characteristics. D. wardianum 
too adapts itself to the forcing principles adopted 
by cut-flower merchants that supply the leading 
markets with choice flowers. 
Coelogyne cristata is another easy grower, and 
indispensable for supplying cut flowers, although it 
does not last so long as it might when severed from 
the plant. A few plants introduced into strong heat 
at intervals give a long season to this best of all 
amateur Orchids. It does not like to be disturbed 
too often at the roots. 
General Remarks —The temperatures may be 
gradually reduced, and the atmosphere allowed to 
become drier in each division.— C. 
The lawns and grounds near the mansion will have 
been kept clear of the leaves as they fell, but this 
will not be sufficient to insure their cleanliness 
throughout the winter. Now that the leaves are all 
down, a start should be made with the raking up of 
those to be found in outlying parts of the grounds, in 
order that they may be carted away to the heap as 
soon as possible. If this is not done, a few drying 
winds will cause the wayward leaves to skip gleefully 
over all parts of the garden to the gardeners no 
small disgust and annoyance. 
Christmas Roses —If the weather continues mild 
and open, it will not be long before Helleborus 
niger and some of its earliest varieties make their 
appearance. In the meantime it will be advisable to 
cover them with small hand lights or glasses. The 
slight protection thus given is greatly appreciated by 
the plants, and if it only prevents the flowers from 
getting splashed with mud during heavy rains the 
slight amount of trouble will be amply repaid. 
When planting Hellebores it is well to keep this fact 
in mind. They should only be put in places 
where protection of the kind suggested can be easily 
given. 
Herbaceous Borders have now assumed, with 
very few exceptions, that cemetery like appearance 
which they wear during the winter months. Any 
tidying up that there is to do should be seen to at 
once, and the rubbish removed without delay. 
Stakes that are sound enough to be of service for 
another season should be tied neatly up in bundles 
according to size, and stored away. Any alterations 
in the size or shape of borders should be made as 
early as possible for the days upon which it is 
possible to work upon the soil are very few indeed at 
this season. 
Dahlias.— It often happens that the first sharp 
frost causes such a press of work that there is little 
time to be spared for the Dahlias. The tops are cut 
down, and the rubbish cleared away, and that has to 
suffice for the time being. Up to now the roots will 
have taken no harm whatever in the ground, but 
they should now be lifted and stored away for severe 
frost may now be expected at any time in which case 
the Dahlias would come rather badly off. In lifting 
take every care to avoid injuring the roots. Fora 
few days after lifting, the roots should be laid in 
single layers on hurdles or trellises in a shed to dry 
before they are stored away for the winter. A label 
bearing the name of the variety, must be firmly 
affixed to each root, or there will be a deal of worry 
and vexation when propagating time comes round to 
find out the roots of varieties required, and also a 
good deal of mixing of the names, which is likewise 
vexatious. 
Tulips. —Despite all the criticism that has been, 
from time to time, directed against the Tulip, our 
gardens would be a great deal poorer if it were 
entirely absent. There is, indeed, no more showy 
spectacle than a bed or a number of beds filled with 
them, and as prices are now pretty reasonable, and 
a bed or two of Tulips find favour with most of the 
ladies and gentlemen who take an interest in their 
gardens at least a few of them should be utilised. 
If the soil is inclined to be rather heavy, and the 
locality is low lying, a little sand may be placed in 
the whole for the bulbs to rest on when planting is 
carried out. On the other hand, if the soil is 
naturally light, this precaution may be dispensed 
with except in the case of very select varieties, when 
the grower naturally wishes to make assurance doubly 
sure. From 3 in. to 4 in. will be sufficient.depth at 
which to plant the bulbs, and about 6 in. of space 
each way will be room enough. 
The arrangement of colours, and the association 
of varieties that come in about the same time is of 
the utmost importance where a more or less elaborate 
plan is to be worked out. Any time spent in this 
direction will, however, will be amply repaid by the 
enhanced effect. In speaking of effective combina¬ 
tions, we must not forget the mixed bed which, whilst 
the easiest to manage, as there is no trouble in 
matching or contrasting the colours, produces as 
satisfactory results as any. — A.S.G. 
Weather prophets say that the abundance of 
berries in the hedges fortells a bad winter. I con¬ 
sider them outstanding evidence that last summer 
was good.— Snaggs. 
