200 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
November 28, 1896. 
HINTS FOR UMATEURS. 
Covering Cold Frames — For the next four or five 
months the protection of unheated frames will be a 
matter of daily routine. The weather is very 
treacherous now, and there is sometimes a great deal 
of difference between the temperature at ten o’clock 
at night and six in the morning. If the amateur 
gardener does not want to be caught on the " hop,” 
he will do well to follow the method practised by 
most of his professional brethren, and cover up each 
night no matter what the weather is. It will be well 
also to have two or three heavy spars of wood in readi¬ 
ness in order to weigh the mats down during windy 
weather. It should be seen before-hand that these 
are free from protruding nails or there will be a few 
breakages of glass to account for as a consequence. 
Echeverias.—These will keep through the winter 
easily enough with comparatively little protection 
from the cold. Damp, on the other hand, has 
seriously to be reckoned with, and thus wherever 
the plants are put it should be dry. Those who 
remove the offsets from the plants usually dibble 
them into sandy soil in a cold frame about the 
beginning of October. It is astonishing to see how 
great a degree of cold these little plants will put up 
with if only they are kept dry. In severe winters 
we have seen the tips of the thick fleshy leaves 
turned quite pink by exposure. 
Failing a cold frame in which to accommodate the 
old plants these will do fairly well if stacked up 
pyramidal fashion under the shelter of a wall. In 
this case the crowns of the plants should stand at 
right angles to the outline of the pyramid or cone, 
and any rain that falls will then run readily off. 
In severe weather a little dry bracken should be 
shaken over the plants, and this covered in its turn 
with some light boards. By such means as these a 
stock of plants may be preserved for use next 
summer. 
A use for Clinkers.—Where the greenhouse 
boiler is fed with cinders from the fires of the dwell¬ 
ing house, the result is that quantities of clinkers 
are made, and as the heap soon assumes formidable 
proportions, and may become a nuisance where space 
is limited, it is advisable to put this heap of refuse to 
some use if possible. For forming a bottom or 
foundation for paths clinkers are of great value. A 
very effective and serviceable path may be made by 
a layer of ashes spread over a bottom of clinkers. 
Of course, it would not bear heavy traffic but for 
walking upon it is both neat and clean. 
Lifting Endive.—As a winter salading Endive is 
the most reliable subject we have, and as it can be 
had in quantity throughout the winter months pro¬ 
vided proper measures are taken, it is well worthy 
the expenditure of any little trouble it may give, in 
order to obtain this desired end. Where the w'inters 
are severe the best plan is to lift all good-sized plants 
some time during the early part of November, and 
transfer them to shelter. A cold frame is the most 
suitable structure for the purpose, as the plants are 
near to the glass. A bed of soil about 6 in. in depth 
will be sufficient. The plants must be lifted from 
the outside with good balls of earth attached, and 
may be planted pretty close together in the frame 
prepared for them. Do not give them any water, 
and air them during favourable days. The exclusion 
of rain is also very necessary, for it must be remem¬ 
bered that the plants succumb more quickly to 
damp when placed under glass than they do in the 
open ground. 
Blanching Endive is an easy matter, and as it is 
highly important that to obtain good quality the 
heads should be well blanched, it is advisable to see 
that, whatever s) stem is adopted, sufficient time is 
allowed it to make it effective. From ten days to a 
fortnight is the time usually required to blanch a 
head properly. Tying-up the heads in the same way 
as Lettuces is perhaps the most commonly adopted 
plan. All the leaves are gathered together into a 
bunch, and a string passed round them to keep them 
in place. The light is thus totally excluded from the 
small leaves, and instead of a flat close lying cushion 
of leaves the plants then present the appearance of 
little cones or pyramids. In cases where the season 
has been dry throughout, and growth has not been 
quite so free as usual, or where the seed was sown 
rather late, and the plants are small from the brevity 
of the growing season it is often very difficult to 
blanch the heads by tying-up, as the outer leaves are 
too short to cover the heart well, and light is thus 
admitted when, of course, blanching does not 
take place properly. Such small heads, how¬ 
ever, may be turned to good account by laying 
upon them flat tiles or pieces of slate sufficiently 
large to cover them. With the exception of size the 
small heads blanched in this way are as good as 
those which have been tied up. 
Blanched Endive does not keep well, so it will be 
necessary to operate upon a portion only of the 
stock at one and the same time. The number of 
heads tied up or covered with slates or tiles will 
naturally depend upon the demand, and this part of 
the proceeding must be regulated at the discretion 
of the operator. 
Plants left standing in the open ground should be 
first used, as in the event of no severe or long-con¬ 
tinued frost visiting us they will blanch very well as 
they stand. 
Asparagus Beds.—If these have not yet been 
attended to they should be taken in hand the first 
opportunity. The old stems should be cut off close 
to the ground with a knife, and this will give an 
opportunity to get rid of the weeds. All the rubbish 
should be carted off at once, and burned up out of 
the way. The beds may then receive a good dress¬ 
ing of stable manure about three parts rotten, to 
the depth of about a couple of inches, the paths or 
alleys between the beds hoed and cleaned, and the 
beds will be straight for the winter. 
Globe Artichokes.— Although these do not find a 
place in the majority of amateurs’ gardens, yet they 
are grown to some extent by some who go in for the 
delicacies amongst vegetables. The plants will pass 
through a mild winter without protection, but one of 
the charms of our climate is that we never know 
what is coming next, when to expect a mild winter, 
or when a severe one. Hence the safest plan is to 
afford protection to the plants each autumn before 
the winter really sets in. This may be done in the 
following way Cut off the flowering stems and 
the larger outside leaves, and heap a quantity of 
stable litter round the plants. The hearts must in 
all cases be left uncovered, or they will be almost 
sure to rot off in the course of the winter. 
Briers for Budding.—The budding of their own 
Roses is an occupation in which numbers of amateur 
gardeners have obtained great enjoyment, and there 
is certainly no reason why others should not follow 
the example thus set by the enthusiasts. We 
explained the modus operandi of budding at the season 
when it was necessary to put the operation in 
practice, and we hope those of our readers who 
followed the advice then given have not been 
deprived of their measure of success. Now, how¬ 
ever, we must look forward to another year, and set 
to work to obtain the material upon which to 
practise next July. Briers for budding should be 
obtained without delay, and planted. Those who 
are fortunate enough to live in close proximity to 
country lanes and hedgerows will most likely be able 
to obtain what briers they need from thence. 
There are many amateur Rose growers who get 
their Briers in this way, and find them to answer 
well. Others who are not so fortunate have to buy 
their stuff, but this is not a very heavy item, 
although it may be as well to say that the low-priced 
article is by no means the cheapest.— Rex. 
Correspondence. 
Questions asked by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening will be answered on this pae,e. 
Anyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
" Amateurs' Page ” on the top of their letters. 
Retarding Lily Crowns —I notice a reference in 
"Amateurs” Correspondence for last week, to the 
practice of retarding Lilies of the Valley, by placing 
them in an ice chamber. I should like to know if 
this is a common practice, and if the flowers suffer 
at all in size or substance, by reason of their long 
wintry experience ? R. Lem worth. 
It can scarcely be claimed that the system of 
freezing Lily of the Valley crowns, is a popular one 
in the sense that it is practised very commonly. On 
the other hand there is not nearly so much of it 
done as there ought to be, taking into consideration 
what excellent results are obtained, and also what a 
popular flower the Lily of the Valley is. We should 
imagine, indeed, that we could scarcely have too 
much of it. There are several large growers for 
market that freeze hundreds of thousands of crowns, 
and the number is doubtless on the increase. We 
have never been able to discover any weakness or 
inferiority in any way to the ordinary flowers in the 
produce of the frozen material. Size and substance 
are remarkably good, and the delicious scent, the 
flower’s greatest charm, is as strong as could be 
desired. Of course, this applies to the blooms borne 
by specially selected crowns, specially recommended 
for forcing purposes. 
Gooseberry Whinham’s Industry—This is a 
favourite variety in the north of England, Carduus, 
not only for the quality of the fruit, but also on 
account of its vigorous constitution. It was raised 
and sent out by Mr. Robert Whinham, of Morpeth. 
The article about it, to which you refer, appeared on 
p. 738 of the issue of The Gardening'.World for 
July i8;h. 
Greenhouse.—The cost of the greenhouse, M. M., 
would depend in a great measure as to whether the 
framework was erected on a low wall, or whether the 
sides were built of wood. The wall would, of course, 
ccst more, but would be substantial and satisfactory. 
By all means fit it with a small boiler and pipes. An 
unheated house is of but comparatively little value, 
and can only be used during the winter for subjects 
like Carnations which are to all intents and purposes 
hardy. 
Ventilating Gear.—The best method of ventilation 
is to have small lights or sashes near the ridge of the 
house that will lift up and down and controlled by 
means of a hand lever or a wheel. Air can then be 
given without lettirg in the rain. Accordingly, a 
great advantage is obtained over the old system, in 
which the lights slide up and down in grooves, as 
well as upon the plan of having a narrow sash 
running the whole depth of the rocf, and at right 
angles to the ridge to lift up, as in the so-called 
“ Paxton ” house. The “ lantern roof ” with movable 
side-lights, is the best system up to the present, for it 
enables air to be given without causing a draught, 
and at the same time ihe rain is excluded. This 
system is favoured in the newer glass houses at Hew. 
Barking Yines—S. T. G., wishes to know if we 
recommend him to strip the bark from his Vine after 
he has pruned it ? He has been told that to do so 
will cause injury to the Vine. 
Although " barking,” the canes, if judiciously per¬ 
formed, does not damage Vines, yet a little careless¬ 
ness in carrying it out, will very soon be productive 
of harm. The “ barking ” of Vines in the winter is 
not a part of the cultural routine in the same way as 
pruning or watering is. It has no direct beneficial 
effect upon the health of the plant, although in some 
cases it has an indirect result. It is simply as an aid 
to a thorough cleansing from insects, especially 
mealy bug, that it is given. Bug finds a convenient 
shelter in the loose outer bark of the canes, and it is 
in order to rout out the bug more effectually that this 
shelter is removed. If S. T. G.’s Vine has not been 
infested with bug, there is no need whatever to 
“ bark ” the canes. 
Mildew on Yerbenas. —From what you say, Clara, 
there is little doubt that the Verbenas are badly 
affected with mildew. The only thirg you can do is 
to keep your plants out of the way of draughts, and 
be very careful with the watering. Meanwhile, dust 
a little flowers of sulphur over the affected plants by 
means of a sulphur blower. Verbenas are rather 
difficult to keep through the winter, and are almost 
sure to contract mildew to some extent. 
Apricots.—Either a south, south-west, or west 
wall will do for Apricots, B., in the southern 
counties ; further north, a south wall would be 
required. 
Lifting Jerusalem Artichokes.—You are wrong in 
supposing frost will harm these, Samson. So far 
from this being the truth, many people prefer the 
taste of them when lifted from the ground after they 
have been frozen. It will be wise to dig up a supply 
and store it in ashes, if severe frost threatens. Arti¬ 
chokes will keep very well if buried in sand or soil in 
the storehouse. 
Three Good Pears that will suit you, F. Giles, are 
Williams’s Bon Chretien, ripening in September; 
