216 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
December 5, 1896. 
||ints for ||iviateurs. 
Old zonal Pelargoniums that have done duty in 
the flower garden during the past summer, and were 
taken up in time to escape the frost and cut back 
according to the fashion usually practised will require 
a good deal of careful attention during the winter if 
anything like a good percentage of them are to pass 
through the ordeal successfully, Those amateurs 
who possess a greenhouse fitted with an efficient 
heating apparatus will not experience very great 
difficulty, but in cases where the heating apparatus 
is not efficient, or where only cold frames protected 
from frost with coverings of various sorts are 
available a totally different tale has to be told. 
Indeed under the latter set of conditions it is very 
questionable whether it pays to attempt to save the 
old plants. As long as the weather continues mild and 
open, by dint of a little care, matters may be kept 
fairly straight, but now and again we get spells of 
frosty weather when the thermometer never rises 
above freezing point throughout the whole of the day, 
and such spells may last for weeks together. The 
coverings on the frames are so stiff that they cannot 
be rolled back to let a little light into the benighted 
plants without a great danger of breaking the glass, 
even if the outside temperature permitted it. The 
absence of light throughout a protracted period, 
more than the low temperatures, causes the old plants 
to damp off wholesale, with the result that by the 
time winter is over and spring has arrived, there is 
very little left of them. 
Now to turn to the other side of the question, of 
how to best deal with them when a heated green¬ 
house is at command. If it is not already fitted with 
shelves this is a point that should receive immediate 
attention. Not only do they economise space, but 
plants of the nature of those under consideration do 
best when brought up close to the glass by means of 
their aid. 
The plants will need very, little, if any, water, as 
the few roots that they possess are nearly dormant. 
If the points of the cut back stems show signs of 
damping off, they should be gone over with a pair of 
scissors, and the decayed portions cut off. A sharp 
knife may be employed instead of scissors, but in this 
case the stem of the plant operated on should be 
grasped by the left hand below the point at which 
the cut is to be made, otherwise the plant not having 
a very firm hold of the soil, will be apt to be pulled 
out, or seriously disturbed. 
Yiolets in Frames.—If these are to produce good 
flowers both as to colour and size, they must have 
plenty of light and air. Very little water will be 
required, especially where the frames are standing 
upon a bed of fermenting material, with a fair depth 
of soil upon the top. Indeed we have found that 
where ihe plants have been put in the frames about 
the middle of September after the first watering in, 
no more water is needed in ordinary seasons until 
the spring. Sometimes when the latter half of 
September is dry and warm, as occasionally happens, 
several waterings are needed till the plants get hold 
of the new soil, but they may be left to take care of 
themselves with regard to water after the beginning 
of October until vigorous growth sets in in the 
spring. 
Broken panes of glass should be mended without 
delay. It has been slyly suggested by one of the 
crowd that broken panes of glass are the amateur’s 
method of giving ventilation. We hope, and think, 
however, that this is a libel upon amateurs generally, 
but we may point out the disadvantages of having 
such gaps in frames. Apart from the easy means of 
ingress it affords to frost there is the still more serious 
consideration of the rain. There is bound to be a 
continual drip from the higher side of such gaps, and 
if this drip falls upon the heart or crown of any plant 
it is almost sure to cause its death. Violets have an 
especial dislike to anything of this kind, and every 
precaution must be taken to shield them from such 
an experience. 
Cinerarias in Frames.—Throughout the summer 
a cold frame is exactly to the taste of the Cineraria, 
but now such a protection is insufficient for 
emergencies that may now arise at any timp, 
particularly the advent of severe frost. Against such 
a visitor the i in. or ijin. planking that forms the 
sides cf frames (the former size is the one usually 
employed) is but poor protection. Therefore it will 
be wise to shift the plants into the greenhouse at the 
earliest opportunity where a little heat can be given 
if occasion requires it. Should it be inconvenient to 
do this for another few weeks some precautions must 
be taken at once to render the frame a more secure 
shelter. This can best be done by putting a layer of 
stable litter all round the frame. Such a layer 
should not be less than i ft. in diameter, and if room 
allows and there is a sufficiency of material on hand 
it may well be made 6 in. wider. It will then afford 
a better foothold upon which to stand when putting 
on or taking off mats, etc. 
Hoya carnosa.—This is a very popular green¬ 
house climber, and where it is grown well there is no 
more beautiful and distinct subject. It is so differ- 
eut from any other of our commoner plants, that to 
this striking individuality, no doubt, it owes a 
great deal of its popularity. Its culture too is easy 
enough, although it has strong likes and dislikes 
of its own. Still, beauty is expected to be more 
or less fractious and a little extra trouble spent in 
humouring it is sure to be amply repaid. Hoyas as 
a rule do not like much shade, a fact of which the 
thick leathery leaves are pretty good evidence, but 
still they are fairly accommodating in this respect, 
for we have known them to do very well indeed upon 
the back wall of a lean-to vinery where naturally they 
were shaded effectually enough from the middle or 
end of March up to nearely the end of October. 
Now and again we hear complaints that although the 
plants grow well enough they only produce very few 
flowers. There is no doubt that besides the question 
of too much shade too much water during the winter 
months is to blame in a great measure for this. 
Whether planted out in borders or grown in pots no 
water should be given during late autumn and winter, 
that is to say, from the beginning of November to the 
end of February or the beginning of March. There 
will be sufficient moisture as a rule left in the soil to 
prevent the leaves from shrivelling, although should 
this latter condition manifest itself a little water may 
be given. 
From the above it may be gathered that pot culture 
is the safest for amateurs to adopt, as the supply of 
moisture to -soil is so much more easily regulated 
when that soil is contained within a pot than it is 
when it is in a bed or border. 
Agapanthus umbellatus.—Although there are 
many people who profess to love the noble blue 
African Water Lily and who take a deal of pains with 
it during the season of its beauty, their love and 
attention are apt to fall into abeyance at this time of 
the year, and they often treat their plants very badly. 
From some cause or other the idea seems to have 
become very prevalent that the Agapanthus, while it 
likes sub-aquatic treatment during the summer, yet 
needs to be kept innocent of even the smell of water 
throughout autumn, winter, and early spring. Such 
treatment is little short of barbarous, and the only 
reason why the Agapanthus does not resent in more 
unequivocally than it does is because it is a very 
good tempered and accommodating subject, and is 
moreover, blessed with something very substantial in 
the way of a constitution. The water supply may be 
reduced now, certainly, but not done away with 
altogether. As a rule the handiest place that offers 
itself for storing the plants during the dull season is 
the space beneath the greenhouse stage. Of course, 
in such a position the plants get a little water from 
their more fortunate relatives that are occupying the 
stages above, but such a supply is far too casual to 
meet their necessities, and must be supplemented by 
direct attention with the watering-can. 
Aatumn-Bown Peas.—The practice of sowing Peas 
in autumn is not one that we would recommend to 
the notice of the amateur. The risks entailed by 
the practice of such a system are too great in com¬ 
parison to the corresponding advantage, which, to 
say the least of it, is somewhat vague. However, 
should anyone wish to try the experiment, we would 
advise him to choose a dry sheltered spot, such as a 
south border, on which to make the sowing. A 
good first early variety must be chosen, such as 
Sutton's A. i., and Improved William I. Mice and 
Sparrows have seriously to be reckoned with in these 
precocious sowings, and both of them often work a 
deal of harm. Traps should be set for the former, the 
good old, “ Figure four Trap,” in which a brick falls 
upon the back of the intruder, being as effectual as 
any, and certainly cheaper than any in construction. 
Wire net CT uards to cover the rows over are the best 
protection against feathered visitants.— Rex. 
Correspondence. 
Questions asked by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardefling will be answered on this page. 
Anyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
"Amateurs' Page " on the top of their letters. 
Lobelias Damping.—Yours is no uncommon com¬ 
plaint, Curo. The wonder would have been if the 
old Lobelia plants did not damp off in such a place 
as a cold frame. If you have no means of trans¬ 
ferring your plants to a heated house you stand little 
or no chance of steering them safely through the 
winter. Can you get sufficient materials together to 
build a hot-bed next spring—say about the end of 
February or beginning of March ? If so you may 
try your hand at seed sowing with a good chance of 
success. Plants raised from seed sown then would 
come into bloom early enough to suit your purpose, 
and would save you an infinite amount of trouble now. 
Roots Piercing Roots.—I have been greatly 
interested in the account of some roots of Rose La 
France pierced by other roots, of which Mr. A. Pentney 
speaks in last week’s issue. Curiously enough since 
that account appeared in print I have discovered 
some roots of Roses in my garden that have behaved 
in a similar way. Is this a common occurrence, and 
what brings it about ?— J. Arens. * 
There is no doubt that the piercing of some roots 
by others, from the same plant, or from neighbour¬ 
ing ones, is a more common occurrence than is usually 
supposed, simply because by virtue of their position 
such roots are out of the common observer’s range 
of vision. Naturally, roots pick, as it were, their 
way through the soil in which they are growing, 
following the line of least resistance, which line may 
or may not pass through another root. The acid 
excreted by the root-hairs enables the roots to 
dissolve and take up into their system chemical salts 
of various kinds, and this excreted acid assists in the 
breaking down of the walls of the cells composing 
the root that comes in the way. 
Incurved Chrysanthemums. —You will find the 
following six varieties a good selection, F. Thomas : — 
Mrs. R. C. Kingston, C. H. Curtis, Jeanne d’Arc, 
J. Agate, D B. Crane, and Robert Petfield. 
Calyx Bursting Carnations. —For any Carnation 
to burst its calyces is a serious defect, and florists of 
late years have been striving their uttermost to 
obtain varieties that do not exhibit this undesirable 
tendency,and with excellent results. Large and heavy 
flowers, however, are almost sure to burst to some 
extent, even although the variety may not under 
ordinary circumstances be given that way. Instead 
of tying the buds up with narrow strips of raffia, as you 
say you did last season, L. G. S., it would be better for 
you to invest in a few of the small rubber rings used 
by florists. One of these can easily be slipped over 
a bud before it opens, or even when the flower is cut 
it may be adjusted to keep the petals in place. 
The most popular DesBert Apple —If a census 
of opinion were taken in the southern and midland 
counties, at all events, as to the best dessert Apple, 
it is well nigh a foregone conclusion, Cosmo, that 
“ Cox's Orange Pippin,” would obtain the greatest 
number of votes. The appearance is good, and the 
flavour excellent, whilst it is also a fine doer, and 
crops well and regularly. 
Potato Pits. —The practice of storing Potatos in 
pits dug in the open ground is covered with the 
respectability that always attaches to an ancient 
custom. Ancient or modern, however, the system is 
not to be commended except as a last resource when 
all other means of storage fail. The Potato disease 
has now got to be a national, if, indeed, it is not an 
international institution, so regularly does it make 
its appearance each year. At harvesting time it 
usually happens that many of the tubers which are 
apparently sound, and are treated as being so, are 
really affected by the disease which develops 
itself after the tuber has been stored. Accord¬ 
ingly, it is necessary that the crop should be over¬ 
hauled once or twice during the autumn, and 
early part of the winter in order to remove these 
faulty subjects, which, if allowed to remain, would 
inevitably spread infection to other tubers in con¬ 
tiguity to them. It is obvious that where the crop 
is consigned to a pit immediately after harvesting 
that it is a matter of gjeat labour and trouble to give 
the picking over that has been proved to be so 
