280 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
January 2, 1897. 
JlNTS FOR ImATEURS. 
Platycerium alcicorne. — At one time the idea was 
very general that this needed a warm house to do 
it properly through the winter, but this has been 
proved to be a fallacy, for not only do the plants not 
suffer in a cool house, but the partial rest appears to 
do them good, for they start away with all the greater 
vigour in the spring. It must not begathered from this, 
however, that they will stand any amount of rough 
treatment, for this they will not do. At this time of 
the year they require to be managed very carefully. 
Where they are growing in cork pockets fixed to old 
tree stems — a most effective method of displaying 
them—the syringing overhead that suits them so well 
during spring and summer must be discontinued. In 
houses which cannot be kept up above 40° Fahr. at 
night they will require very little water indeed, 
especially where they are growing in a mixture of 
sphagnum moss, peat, and sand. Such a mixture 
suits them well, and the moss holds the moisture fora 
long time during those months of the year when the 
atmosphere is so close to saturation point. The low 
temperatures will not do any material harm to the 
plants, provided the watering is only judiciously per¬ 
formed. 
Platycerium grande will not put up with the 
cool treatment nearly so well as P. alcicorne, and it 
should therefore be removed to a warm house at the 
approach of winter. 
Covering the Greenhouse. — While it is the gener¬ 
ally accepted method to cover up cold frames to 
exclude frost, very few people think of the value in a 
similar direction, of covering to the greenhouse. If 
severe frost should happen to set in it is astonishing 
how even a light covering will supplement the work 
of ihe pipes in keeping up the temperature. In deal¬ 
ing with plants therefore, such as cool Ferns and 
Odontoglossums, that have a deeply seated dislike to 
fire-heat in any shape or form, a covering thrown 
over the house will be of great service. It will 
assist in excluding ihe frost, and thus indirectly 
prevent the atmosphere from becoming dry and arid, 
a condition of things that is sure to result from the 
use of too much fire-heat. 
Cold Water is injurious to most tender plants, 
more especially when that water is hard as well as 
cold. All water must have the chill taken off it 
before it is applied to the roots of the plants, by one 
of two methods—viz., the addition of a sufficient 
quantity of hot water, or by allowing it to stand in 
the house for at least twelve hours before using. 
The water given to greenhouse plants should have a 
temperature of from 45 0 to 50° Fahr. For plants in 
warmer houses it may be from 6o° 70°. 
Outside Yine Borders.—Those amateurs who go in 
for growing early Grapes, and start their Vines with 
the New Year with a view to this intent, will need to 
afford the outside borders some protection. Active 
roots of Vines in the early stages of growth are very 
sensitive to check, and hence it is advisable 
to have inside borders for Vines that have to be 
forced early. However, if the outside borders are 
there, it only remains to make the best of things. 
They should be given a good coating, say from 6 in. 
to 1 ft. in depth, of stable litter. This will serve a 
double purpose, for not only will it protect the roots 
from frost, but it will add a deal of valuable nutri¬ 
ment to the soil. An experienced cultivator can 
easily tell by a look at a border whether it has been 
regularly top-dressed or not, for if it has numbers of 
active roots make their way to the upper layers of 
soil in search of the food to be found there, instead 
of seeking lower strata which may not contain much 
that is of use to them. 
As quantities of snow water and deluges of cold 
rain are most injurious to the roots of Vines that are 
being forced, some boards or sheets of galvanised 
iron should be laid over the litter to throw off any 
heavy falls of either snow or rain. 
Euphorbia jacquiniaeflora.—This is one of the 
brightest occupants of our plant houses, and a verit¬ 
able boon at this season of the year, when brightly 
coloured flowers are all too rare. It requires a warm 
house to obtain it at its best. Young plants of it 
in pots will do very well in frames during the summer 
right up to the end of September, but after that time 
they require artificial heat. In order to get the 
plants to ripen properly all the exposure to the sun 
possible must be given, for it is upon the proper 
maturation of the wood that the flowering depends. 
The long wreath-like strings of flowers are most 
handsome, and come in splendidly for cutting. 
When it flowers the plants will keep rather longer in 
condition if they are removed to a cooler house. 
As the greater portion of the leaves are situated at 
the top of the shoots they are removed with the 
flowers, and hence the plants look rather unsightly 
when they have been topped. This should not be 
considered sufficient excuse, as it often is, to treat the 
plants as if they were of no further service, and 
neglect them for weeks together. The next year's 
supply has to be thought about, and it is to 
the old cut back plants that we must look for the 
cuttings to furnish it. These cuttings may be put 
in as soon in the year as they can be obtained, as 
sometimes the old plants are in no great hurry to 
furnish suitable shoots. 
After the old plants have been topped they will not 
need very much water at the root, but they should be 
placed in a warm, light corner of the house, and the 
syringe drawn over them occasionally. The first 
shoots will appear at the end of the stem, as the sap 
will naturally run most freely to the highest point, 
and produce the earliest breaks there. Shoots about 
4 in. in length make capital cuttings. They should 
be. taken off with a portion of the old shoot attached— 
technically called by gardeners a heel. Use very 
sandy soil, and small thumb pots. These should be 
well drained, and may each contain a single, cutting. 
Euphorbias are rather sensitive to disturbances at 
the roots, and by. putting a single cutting in a pot 
there is no need to break the ball or damage the 
roots in any way. Late batches of cuttings may be 
inserted, three in a small 60-sized pot. In this case 
also it will be better not to attempt to separate the 
plants, but pot them up just as they are. 
Sophronitis grandiflora. —Although Orchids are 
generally regarded by the usual run of amateur 
gardeners as being a step above their ability to 
manage, there are some of them that are easy 
enough to grow, and respond readily to ordinary 
care and attention. Of these Sophronitis grandiflora 
is a conspicuous instance. The genus contains only 
four or five species, all of them natives of the Organ 
Mountains in Brazil. S grandiflora is undoubtedly 
the gem of the genus, and as it is so easy to manage 
is a plant that should be in every amateur’s green¬ 
house. Flowering in November and December the 
flowers last for fully six weeks in condition before 
they begin to lose some of their brilliant scarlet hue. 
S. grandiflora occurs at considerable elevations in its 
native mountains, so great indeed, that it occa¬ 
sionally has to put up with white frosts. It will be 
gathered from this that it will bear a pretty low 
temperature, although it is almost needless to say 
that it should be saved from the frosty experience 
here. They like a little more heat during their 
growing season, when they will also require liberal 
supplies of water ; indeed, they must not be dried off 
at any time, alihough, during the winter, the water 
supply may be reduced considerably. As the plants 
are only an inch or two in height, shallow pans are 
the best receptacles for them. Packed in these with 
peat and sphagnum moss they grow away freely 
enough. They also do fairly well if fastened to 
blocks of wood or rafts. In the latter condition they 
will naturally dry up much more quickly than they 
do when in pans, and during the summer months 
they will need to be dipped twice a day if the weather 
is hot. 
Clerodendron fallax.— When these have fruited 
the fruits should be gathered when ripe, the husks 
broken and the seeds taken out, and packed away. 
If sown in heat towards the end of February good 
plants to flower in the following autumn will be 
obtained. The old plants may be saved if desired. 
Cut them back and keep them rather dry for 
another fortnight. Then place them in heat in 
order to start them into growth for the production 
of cuttings.— Rex. 
- <*• - 
Correspondence. 
Questions asked by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening will be answered on this page. 
A nyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
“Amateurs' Page ” on the top of their letters. 
Quickset Hedge. —As the hedge has become so very 
bad, S.B., your best plan would seem to be to pull 
it out and plant another one. If you do not wish 
to do this you must fill up the gaps by planting 
young stuff both where the old ones have died away, 
and where they are thin at the bottom. In the 
latter case the plants that are required to make the 
base of the hedge good must be kept closely pruned 
in each year. The straggling portions of the old 
plants may be cut out now, the strong upright 
growths beiog headed back to about 4 ft. from the 
ground. The smaller ones need not be all cut back 
to the same height, but each alternate one may be 
left 6 in. longer. If you persevere in pruning each 
year you will eventually obtain a good hedge. It 
is a common practice in the country to put up a 
rough " dead” hedge, formed of boughs intertwined 
amongst uprights obtained by driving stout stakes 
into the ground, for the purpose of protecting youDg 
hedge plants from animals. This may be worth 
trying in your case. 
Painting Hot-water Pipes.—Yes, B., Brunswick 
Black would do to paint your pipes with, but it is 
not the mixture generally used for the purpose, 
which is lamp black and boiled oil. You can get 
these ingredients from a neighbouring oilman, and 
mix them yourself. When fit for using, the stuff 
will be of the consistency of thick paint. 
Berried Plants.—Ardisia crenulata will need a 
stove temperature, or it will not grow well, Atlantis. 
Skimmia japonica, and Solanum Capsicastrum will 
both succeed in a greenhouse. 
Yiburnum Tinus is quite a success as a pot plant. 
F. Early. Two thirds of good loam, and one of leaf 
soil, with a little rough river sand will suit it very 
well. 
Cyclamen Leaves are undoubtedly pretty and 
effective for vases, H. S. N., but it is ruination to 
the plants to take them off. If you must have them, 
however, the better plan will be to sacrifice a few 
plants, strip them entirely of their leaves, and pitch 
them away, rather than to injure the whole batch by 
taking toll of a few leaves from each. 
Cyclamen Seed must be sown at once, George. 
The soil should consist of mellow loam, broken up 
finely and passed through a sieve, and good leaf 
soil, treated likewise, with a good sprinkling of sharp 
sand. A temperature of about 6o° Fahr. will be 
necessary to insure speedy germination. Place a 
piece of glass over the seed pot or pan to prevent 
rapid evaporation of the moisture in the soil. In 
order to insure success the temperature must be kept 
equable, and should not be permitted to go to 
extremes, either of heat or cold. 
Seaweed as a Manure for Asparagus is a great 
success, J. D. ; in fact, the Asparagus seems to like 
it better than anything else. Where it is used, 
dressings of salt will be unnecessary. 
Forcing Mint.— Reader asks for a few instructions 
as to how to force Spearmint. 
The roots should be lifted carefully, placed fairly 
close together in shallow boxes, in the bottoms of 
which holes have been cut for drainage, and covered 
with light soil. A temperature of 6o° Fahr. will be 
needed to excite the roots into growth. A good deal 
of water will also be called for, as with the small 
quantity of soil contained in the boxes the moisture 
is soon used up or dissipated. Frequent sprinklings 
with the syringe will be of great service. 
To Protect Parsley.—Your best way, G. Raeburn, 
will be to cover up the Parsley as it stands rather 
than to lift it. A hand-light, or even a box with the 
bottom knocked out would come in very handy for 
the purpose. 
Passiflora caerulea.—I have a plant of this on a 
back wall of my greenhouse. It made a lot of growth 
last year, and I think it wants pruning. How shall 
I set about doing it ? — W. Akers. 
You must cut all the small growths out, spurring 
them back close to their junction with the larger 
branches. You need have but little fear of cutting 
out too much, for as long as there are a few pieces 
of healthy wood left young shoots will be produced 
in abundance, and will soon cover the wall again ; 
indeed, the trouble usually is to find room for them, 
so thick do they get. 
