296 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
January 9, 1897. 
Hints for ||mateurs. 
Red and White Currants.—These are exceedingly 
popular fruits with all classes of society. In the 
kitchen they are in especial favour for the making of 
fruit tarts, preserves, and other delicacies which we 
look to the genius of the kitchen to supply. On the 
dessert table also, they are often to be seen, for there 
are many people that relish their somewhat pro¬ 
nounced acidity. We will deal with the two 
together, as the same kind of treatment will suit 
them both equally well The Red Currant of our 
gardens is a modern descendant of Ribes rubrum, a 
plant which if it is not a bona fide native of Great 
Britain must have been introduced so far back that 
the exact date is absolutely unknown. The White 
Currant is a garden variety of the same species, and 
through the modifying influences of cultivation 
possesses rather less acidity than the red form. 
The same may be said of the pink or champagne 
Currants. 
Soil and Situation.— Red and White Currants 
will grow in any garden soil of ordinary depth 
and fertility. A good rich loam, at least 2 ft. 
in depth, and inclined to be heavy than otherwise, is 
probably the very best medium, for Currants take a 
great deal out of the soil, and during a dry season, 
if the soil is too light, and the bushes are not watered 
the fruit will either shrivel or ripen off prematurely, 
when it will be sour and disagreeably acid. As to 
situation, plenty of light and exposure is necessary. 
On the whole the Currant is a most accommodating 
subject. A position that is very frequently assigned 
to Currants is in rows about 3 ft. from the edge of 
the walks in the kitchen garden. Where pyramidal 
Pears, or cup shaped Apples are dotted along in this 
position the Currants form suitable subjects for 
planting between them. The great disadvantage 
attaching to this system of planting is that during 
the period when the fruit is ripe it .is a matter of 
some difficulty to give protection against birds. 
Planting in quarters is therefore recommended by 
many growers, when the protection of the fruit is 
greatly simplified. Then there is culture upon 
north or east walls to be considered. Space for one 
or two trees can usually be found, and the season of 
fruiting will be greatly prolonged thereby, as the fruit 
upon the wall trees will not ripen so soon, or go off 
so quickly as that borne by the bushes. 
Planting may be conducted at any time between 
the fall of the old leaves in autumn, and the time 
when the buds swell and burst in spring. It is 
desirable, however, to plant as early in the autumn 
as possible, in order that the plants may get a hold 
of the new soil in good time. Any of our readers 
who contemplate plantirig should see to it at the 
earliest opportunity, for it must be remembered that, 
like the Gooseberry, the trees start into growth 
pretty early in the season. When planting in 
quarters, about 5 ft. should be allowed between the 
trees. When planting by the edges of walks not 
less than 4 ft. between the bushes should also be 
given, or there will not be space left to pass between 
them. 
Bush Trees. —The common method of training is 
the cup-shaped form. The pruning needed by such 
bushes is very simple indeed, and no amateur need 
be afraid to tackle it. These cup-shaped trees con¬ 
sist of a number of main branches growing 
perpendicularly, and arranged in a circle at equal 
distances apart. All the lateral growths will now 
need to be spurred back to within half an inch of 
their bases. There is very little use in leaving them 
any longer than this, as an examination of trees that 
have been thus treated will quickly demonstrate. 
About an inch away from the point of their origin the 
young side shoots commence to get pithy. As this 
pith is delicate it dies on exposure to the weather, 
and the wood outside it usually follows. Where the 
spurs have been left rather long, therefore, they are 
generally tipped with a dead snag that is of no value 
to the tree at all, and is only unsightly. Therefore, 
it is the best plan to spur back fairly close at the 
outset. 
As a rule about 3 ft. is a good average size for the 
main branches to grow to in a perpendicular 
direction, and once they have attained this height the 
terminal shoots or leaders may also be cut closely 
back each year —that is within two or three buds of 
the point at which they originated. Young trees 
should have the leaders shortened back to within 
4 in., 5 in., or 6 in.—the latter only if they are very 
stroDg. This may go on until the branches of which 
they form the terminations have grown as tall as is 
desirable. In all cases, whether dealing with trees 
that have reached their full dimensions, or young 
ones that are still small, the leaders must be cut 
back to a bud pointing outwards, so that the shoot 
springing from it shall continue in the same direction 
as the remainder of the branch. The central axis or 
stem from which all the main upright branches pro¬ 
ceed should be kept clear of any growths or suckers 
for the same reason as in the case of the Gooseberry. 
Wall Trees. —A favourite system of training these 
is to take up three main branches, and treat them in 
precisely the same way as the main branches on the 
bush trees, i.e., spurring back the laterals to within 
about half an inch of their bases, and shortening the 
leaders each year. Such trees are very sure aDd 
regular bearers, and besides prolonging the season 
when planted in suitable positions have this advan¬ 
tage, that the fruit they bear, being higher above the 
soil, is not so liable to get splashed with dirt as that 
upon the bushes. 
Propagation. —The most effective method of pro¬ 
pagation, and the one most generally adopted, is by 
cuttings, which may be inserted any time after the 
leaves have fallen up to about the end of February 
in an ordinary season. We may remark here, how¬ 
ever, that a cutting put in in autumn is at a great 
advantage over one inserted in spring, the gain in 
time being very considerable—more, in fact, than 
the actual difference of time between the two periods. 
Cuttings should be about 1 ft. in length, and for 6 in. 
at least all the eyes should be picked out in the same 
way, and for the same reason, as was recommended 
when dealing with the Gooseberry. The instruc¬ 
tions then given as to the position in which to put 
in the cuttings, and the method to adopt, may be 
applied with equal success to both Red Currant and 
Gooseberry, and further direction would, therefore, 
be superfluous.— Rex. 
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Correspondence. 
Questions asked by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening will be answered on this page. 
A nyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
“Amateurs' Page ” on the top of their letters. 
Yine Border.—I purpose growing Vines, and should 
be grateful if you will give me, through the medium 
of the “Amateurs’ Page," some instructions as to 
what soil to use, the depth of the border, etc.— D. 
Kennan. 
The basis of the soil should be good loam, 
obtained from the top spit of an old pasture. The 
sods may be roughly cut up with the spade. To five 
cubic yards of this add one yard of old lime or mortar 
rubbish, from 1$ to 2 cwt. of J in. bones, and, if it 
can be obtained, a little charcoal. Mix the whole 
thoroughly together before using. If the loam is 
inclined to be light rather less of the lime rubbish 
will be needed. The width of the border should be 
about that of the width of the house. Thus for a 
house 12 ft. in width a border 12 ft. wide would be 
needed. In depth the border should be from 2 ft. 
to 3 ft. We do not recommend a very shallow 
border as the Vines are liable to suffer from lack of 
water. On the other hand a too deep border is apt 
to get soddened and sour. The amount of drainage 
will depend upon the character of the subsoil in your 
locality, whether gravelly or not. From 1 ft. to 
1J ft. of broken bricks will be required, however. On 
this a layer of the sods should be laid entire, and the 
prepared soil may then follow. 
Seed Lists. — You will obtain what you require, 
A.. B., from any of the seedsmen whose names 
appear in our advertisement columns. 
Forcing French Beans.— Will you tell me what 
heat I should require to force French Beans in pots ? 
also what varieties would succeed best with me.— 
Samuel Morgan. 
In order to insure speedy germination a tempera¬ 
ture of not less than 6 o Q Fahr. by night must be 
given. During the day the house should rise to 65°. 
Ne Plus Ultra or Osborne’s Forcing are both capital 
varieties for forcing purposes. 
Primula obconica.— Would you advise me to 
split up the old plants when they have done flower¬ 
ing ? as I am told this is the best way to propagate 
this Primula.— Alpha. 
You certainly may divide up the old plants as you 
suggest, but we prefer to raise plants from seed each 
year in the same way as we do the Chinese 
Primulas. YouDg plants bloom rather more freely 
than the older ones, and the flowers are distinctly 
finer. Sow in fine sandy soil at the same time as 
you do the Chinese Primulas, and place the seed pan 
under the same conditions. 
Asphalte for Garden Walks. —There is a great 
deal of difference between this and the true asphalte, 
A. The latter is prepared from a bituminous 
limestone found at Val de Travers in the Canton of 
Neufchatel in Switzerland, and also at Pyrimont, 
near Seyssel, a small town in the department of Ain 
on the banks of the Rhone in France. The asphalte 
used for making garden walks is made from coal tar, 
made hot, and mixed with gravel or cinders. 
Cardoons.— Constancy asks for some information as 
to the uses of Cardoons. 
The stalks of the inner leaves are stewed and sent 
to the table thus. They are also used for soups and 
salads. The dried flowers possess the quality of 
coagulating milk, and are employed for this purpose 
in France. On the whole, therefore, it is a very 
useful plant, although its cultivation is usually in 
this country limited to the larger gardens. 
Pruning Tree Roses. —You must wait until the 
beginning of March before you attempt to prune 
your Tea Roses, L. L. A. The winter is by no 
means over yet, and we do not know what surprises 
the rest of January and February may have in store 
for us. 
Bouyardias. —After flowering well throughout 
December my Bouvardias have become very shabby 
of late. Some of their leaves have fallen, and the 
rest look rather shabby. What am I to do with 
them ?— W. Naylor. 
Give the plants very little water, do not excite 
them in any way, and allow them to go gradually to 
rest. When the wood has become thoroughly ripened 
prune them hard back. When they are started into 
growth they will then make compact little plants. 
They should be repotted when they have commenced 
to break into growth. 
Early Grapes.—If you intend to force early, M., 
Swansea , we should advise you when building your 
vinery to have an inside border. The Vines are 
then much more easily handled during cold weather. 
Propagating Dahlias. — P. writes:—“ I have some 
roots of Dahlias of special sorts of which I wish to 
get cuttings, when shall I have to make a start with 
them.” 
The old roots may be put into heat as soon as 
convenient. Lay them in shallow boxes and cover 
them with any light soil that may be handy. As 
soon as the cuttings are about 4 in. in length they 
may be taken off and inserted singly in small pots. 
Use sandy soil. 
Rhubarb.— I have an acre of ground which I 
intend planting with Rhubarb for forcing for market. 
What kind is best ? The soil is rather moist and 
heavy, leaning to clay. Would this suit it ? Which 
would be better, to buy the roots, or sow the seed in 
February or May ?— Allotment. 
The soil mentioned will suit Rhubarb very well if 
trenched and well worked. We should certainly 
advise you to purchase roots of a good variety rather 
than to go to the trouble of raising your own plants 
from seed. The latter plan would mean the loss of a 
good deal of time as compared with the former. 
The spring is a better time for planting than autumn, 
consequently you are in gocd time to make a start 
this year. Victoria is a capital all-round variety, and 
would be the best for your purpose. 
Rhubarb for London. —How do you account for 
the fact that a large quantity of Rhubarb is forced 
for the London and other large markets in the neigh¬ 
bourhood of Leeds and Bradford ? Is it the soil or 
the climate that has to do with it ?— Allotment. 
No doubt the soil is suitable enough for Rhubarb 
in the localities you mention. Probably the reason 
why a situation close to big towns like Leeds and 
