328 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
January 28, 1897. 
|flNTS FOR ||mATEURS. 
Narcissus monophyllus.—Narcissus Bulbocodium, 
the Hoop Petticoat Narcissus, is one of the prettiest 
plants for growing in pots in the cool greenhouse. 
It is a plant of many parts, however, and not content 
with the rich yellow of the normal type it has 
exhibited its energy by varying considerably. We 
have thus several intermediate shades of yellow, 
which finally merge into white. N. monophyllus is 
one of the finest white forms of N. Bulbocodium, or 
N. Corbularia, as it is sometimes called. The leaves 
are long, very narrow, and slender. They are usually 
solitary, as the varietal or sub-specific name suggests. 
The flowers are comparatively large, and the 
large corona, which has been fancifully likened to a 
hoop petticoat, from whence the popular name, is 
considerably longer than the segments of the 
perianth. The texture of the flowers is exceedingly 
delicate, although they last fairly well. 
To amateurs who are on the look-out for plants to 
flower in a cool greenhouse early in the year the 
subject under notice may be warmly recommended. 
It may be coaxed into bloom early in January 
with very little trouble. Forwarding the plants 
in this way cannot be regarded as forcing, for 
the less artificial heat employed the better; indeed, 
it would be ruinous to the plants to put them in heat. 
All that is required is to shelter them during the 
autumn by placing them in cold frames, or by 
covering them with handlights in the autumn. 
Culture in pots or shallow pans may therefore be 
conducted with excellent results. Three to six bulbs 
may be placed in a 5-in. pot, or better still, shallow 
pans of from 6 in. to 10 in. in diameter may be 
employed. Both pots and pans must be well drained 
and light sandy soil should be used. 
Planting the bulbs out in frames is practised by 
some cultivators. A bed of soil is then made up in 
the frame. The plants bloom well enough when 
treated thus, but here comes in the great objection 
to this system, they cannot be taken into the green¬ 
house when they are in bloom. 
Black Currants are always in great demand in 
gardens, both small and large. The majority of 
cottagers grow them to a fair extent, for they not 
only make excellent fruit tarts, but the preserves 
form the basis for a decoction that is regarded by 
country people as being a safe and very effective 
remedy for coughs, colds, etc., during the winter 
months. In cases where the cottager is not able to 
consume the whole of his fruit he can generally find 
a ready market for it, particularly in the neighbour¬ 
hood of large towns. In such oases the crop maybe 
made a very remunerative one. The Black Currant 
is the offspring of Ribes nigrum, which, like R. 
rubrum, the parent of the Red and White Currants, 
is to be found wild in the British Isles, and the intro¬ 
duction of which, equally with the latter species, is 
surrounded with uncertainty. 
Soil.—A rich, deep, and well drained soil suits the 
Black Currant, and if the garden does not boast of 
such a medium naturally, artificial aid must be 
brought to bear. Deep cultivation and heavy 
manuring will do wonders in improving a soil that is 
naturally poor and shallow. Bushes planted in 
cottagers’ gardens have not often much to complain 
of with regard to the soil, as they are usually planted 
by the edges of quarters devoted to the culture of 
vegetables, and such quarters are well manured and 
deeply dug each year in the majority of cases 
The average cottager is generally pretty liberal with 
the manure to his ground, particularly where he is 
far enough away from the town to be able to keep a 
pig or two. The question of soil, however, is not the 
only one that should be considered, if the bushes are 
to bear plenty of good fruit. Not infrequently we 
come across bushes that have been given anything 
but proper treatment, with the result that they are 
merely thickets of wood, and the fruit is small and of 
little value. Black Currants on good soil invariably 
make a great deal of wood, and hence a little dressing 
with the knife is required. 
Pruning is a very simple operation, but is entirely 
different to that recommended for Red and White 
Currants. Unlike the latter the fruit is produced on 
wood of the previous year. In dealing with the 
bushes, therefore, the old wood which is past bear¬ 
ing must be cut clean out, following it up right to 
the stool of the bush. Some of the old wood will, of 
course, be necessary to carry the young bearing 
growths, or to extend the spread of the bush, but all 
that is not required for these purposes must be taken 
out. The young growths must receive a judicious 
thinning out, as overcrowding must be guarded 
against. Light and air are both necessary to the proper 
ripening of both fruit and wood, and this will be 
seriously impeded by crowding. No shortening of 
the shoots should be practised, but those that remain 
after the thinning, must be left at their full length. 
Yarieties of Black Currants.—These are not 
sufficiently numerous to puzzle the amateur culti¬ 
vator as to which to pick and choose. The under¬ 
mentioned are sorts of long standing that have amply 
demonstrated their value and reliability. Either or 
all of them may be grown, and will be found capable 
of supplying all requirements. Lee's Prolific has 
very large berries, and is a most abundant bearer. 
The berries moreover possess a sweet and pleasant 
flavour, and will hang for a long time on the trees 
after they are ripe. Black Naples is also a very 
large fruited and prolific variety. It comes into leaf 
very early, and on that account is liable to be in¬ 
jured by severe late spring frosts, but on the whole it 
is excellent for general work. A third variety is 
Ogden’s Black Grape. This is, perphaps, the best 
of any for planting in cold and exposed districts, or 
where the soil is wet and heavy. 
Jasminum nudiflorum.—The hardiness of this 
well-known climber in flowering in the middle of 
winter is really extraordinary when we take all things 
into consideration. It is not to be wondered at, 
therefore, that it is such a great favourite amongst 
amateurs generally. In the districts around London 
one may see many villas with their walls covered by 
it, and judging by appearances it seems to resist the 
smoke pretty well. It is gifted with a good constitu¬ 
tion and will thrive in any position and in any soil 
of fair depth and fertility. Another good point is 
it grows quickly and is not very long in covering a 
wall. The long, flexible, green branches clothed 
with the bright yellow flowers are very ornamental, 
and the absence of the leaves tends to show the 
flowers off more conspicuously. Those of our readers 
who are in search of a climber for covering a wall, a 
fence, or an arbour, cannot do better than invest in 
one of these Jasmines. We may mention, by the way, 
that we owe it to China, from whence it was intro¬ 
duced about the year 1844. 
-»i»- 
Correspondence. 
Questions asked by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening will be answered on this page. 
A nyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
" Amateurs' Page " on the top of their letters. 
Bedding Calceolarias .—1 made up a bed of soil in a 
cold frame early last autumn and put in a lot of 
cuttings of bedding Calceolarias, most of which have 
rooted. Owing to the mildness of the winter they 
have grown a good deal. Will it be necessary to 
take them up and replant them ? Some of them 
have grown rather tall! Must I pinch the tops out 
of these ? G. Wilson. 
Unless the plants become very crowded there will 
be no need to take them up and replant them, and in 
any case it should not be done just now. Wait for 
another six weeks before you think of disturbing 
them. In the meantime you may pinch the tops out 
of those plants that are tco tall and straggling. In 
two or three week’s time the tops of the rest may be 
taken off. This will induce them to make side 
growths, and will develop a dwarf and bushy habit. 
Worms in pots.—A very simple method of getting 
rid of these intruders from the soil in the pots, N. M., 
is to water the plants with water heated to 123 0 
Fahr. This will do no harm to the roots of the 
plants and will cause the worms to come to the 
surface, when they may be easily caught. Tapping 
the pots with a stick will often have the same effect, 
but is not always certain. 
Aucuba japonica.—Will you tell me the way to 
propagate this plant, and whether I shall require heat 
to do so or no ? IF. Enders. 
Aucuba japonica may be quickly and easily 
increased by cuttings, taken either in spring or 
autumn. Nurserymen favour the latter season. 
Make up a bed of light sandy soil in a cold frame, 
and put a layer of sand on the top of the soil. Into 
this the cuttings may be dibbled pretty thickly. 
Keep them quite cool. If you have not a frame to 
spare, in the manner suggested, choose a sheltered 
border under a wall. A frame is, of course, a great 
protection, inasmuch as it enables the cultivator 
to gauge better the conditions of moisture at the 
root. 
Noisette Roses.— Wat asks for some information 
as to the origin of this class of Roses. 
The Noisette Rose is of American origin. It was 
first produced by a cross between Rosa moschata, 
and R. indica, so that it is closely related to the Tea. 
The hybrid was sent to France and placed under the 
care of M. Noisette, of Paris, who propagated and 
sent the strangers out to commerce under the name 
of Noisettes. 
Border Carnations in pots.—I have had a deal of 
ill-luck with regard to my Carnations for the last two 
years. The ground is infested with wireworms, and 
nothing I can do seems to lessen their numbers 
appreciably. In despair at doing any good by plant¬ 
ing outdoors, I have bethought me of trying pot 
culture. Will you give me a few instructions as to 
how and when to pot ?; also what soil to use ? 
McPherson. 
About the beginning of March will be the best 
time for you to pot the plants. Select the strongest, 
and put them singly into 7-in. pots. If the plants are 
small and rather weak, you might put three in an 
8-in. pot. Take care not to bury the plants too 
deeply. For compost, use two parts of good turfy 
loam, chopped up with a spade, and one third of 
spent mushroom-bed manure. Rub the latter through 
a | in. mesh sieve. Add a good sprinkling of rough 
river sand. Do not pot too firmly, and be very 
careful over the subsequent watering. If the soil is 
fairly moist, the plants will not want any water for 
some little time after they have been potted. A cold 
frame will suit them very well until they grow too 
tall for it, when they must be shifted into mere 
commodious quarters. 
Fig, Brown Turkey.—You will find this a very 
hardy sort, Y., and the best for your purpose. 
Planted against a south wall out cf doors it will do 
well with you. Do not commit the mistake cf 
makiDg the border too large. Figs always fruit best 
when the root run is somewhat confined, otherwise 
the growth is gross and rank, and the fruit crop 
small. 
Two good late Plums—Will you tell me the two 
best late dessert Plums for planting against a north 
wall, Reader. 
Coe's Golden Drop and Ickworth's Imperatrice are 
the two best, 
Begonia semperflorens.—For flowering during 
the winter months, seed may be sown from the 
middle to the end of February in heat. There are no 
more useiul plants, T. T., for decoration of the con¬ 
servatory in the dull months of the year than 
Begonia semperflorens and its varieties. 
Raspberries.—A year ago I took possession of a 
house and garden, the latter being in a much 
neglected state. Amongst other thiDgs it contained 
was a couple of rows of Raspberries, but such Rasp¬ 
berries !—I am sure they did not produce such good 
fruit as the wild ones in the woods. I thought by 
manuring them well I should improve them, but the 
manure did not do much good last year. What 
would you advise me to do ? Subscriber. 
The probability is that the Raspberries are old, 
and not having been properly looked after, the 
ground in which they are growing has become 
terribly impoverished. It would be worse than 
useless to try and renovate this old plantation, and 
the best thing you can do is to root them up and 
make another plantation on a different site. Any 
spot that you may choose should be prepared by 
trenching and heavy manuring, and this work should 
be seen to with all speed Plant a thoroughly 
reliable sort, such as Superlative, and you will be 
alright. This variety is certainly the best for general 
purposes. 
Ficus repens.—Without doubt, the reason why 
your Ficus looks so unhappy, is that the wall is too 
dry for it, Taro. Houses which have a back wall 
with the stokehole behind, such as yours, must have 
the wall syringed at least once a day all through the 
