358 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
February 6, 1897. 
£ - 
Dendrobium Endocharis. —Many cultivators 
have a difficulty in keeping D. japonicum alive for 
more than a few years. That under notice is a 
hybrid from it ; and the pollen parent was the popu¬ 
lar D. aureum. The greater vigour of D. Endocharis 
is a good reason for the raising of hybrid Orchids, 
which often prove more amenable to the cultivator’s 
art than the originals, or at least than one of them. 
Cypripedium Scblimii, C, nheum and C. fairieanum 
might be cited as additional examples of Orchids that 
prove difficult to keep in health ; while the numerous 
hybrids, to which they have given rise by crossing 
with others,are altogether finer and more satisfactory 
than the originals. D. Endocharis is intermediate 
between the parents, and takes after D. aureum in 
the strength of its stems and vigour. The flowers are 
almost, if not quite, as large as those of the last 
named, but the segments are narrower, showing a 
leaning in that respect to the seed parent (D. japoni¬ 
cum). With the exception of a crimson-purple, 
slightly rayed blotch on the lip, the flowers are 
white, and deliciously fragralit, the odour emitted 
by them being compared to that of violets. 
Dendrobium Cassiope.—This may be regarded 
as a near relation to D. Endocharis, but has a slightly 
different parentage. It was obtained from D. 
japonicum, crossed with D. nobile album. The 
latter has imparted a more vigorous constitution to 
the progeny, as generally happens,when this vigorous 
and popular species is employed. The flowers are 
freely produced in lateral clusters from the stems, 
and at a season when white flowers particularly are 
highly cherished, that is, in winter ; for it blooms 
freely in various parts of the country during Decem¬ 
ber and January. We noted it flowering freely at 
Falkland Park, South Norwood Hill, recently, under 
the care of Mr, A. Wright, who thinks highly of it. 
The flowers, with the exception of a purple blotch in 
the throat, are pure white, including the pedicels. 
The clearer purple blotch of the lip, and the greater 
amount of white about the flowers, would constitute 
the difference between this and Endocharis, thus 
showing the influence of the white variety of D. 
nobile. 
Cypripedium oenanthum super'oum. —This 
beautiful Cypripede was raised from C. harrisianum 
crossed with C. insigne Maulei, and was the first of 
the genus in which a hybrid was one of the parents 
used. Without doubt it is one of the prettiest 
hybrids, if not the prettiest, in the section to which it 
belongs. The dorsal sepal is of a rich claret-red, 
marked with blackish purple spots, arranged in lines 
along the course of the veins, giving place to clear 
purple ones where they pass into the white ground 
of the apex. The petals are also of a rich claret- 
purple, and the lip darker and less bright in hue. 
The plant is of dwarf habit, neat, and exceedingly 
attractive. It has been flowering for some time past 
in the nursery of Messrs. J. Veitch & Sons, Ltd., who 
were the raisers. It is superior to the typical C. 
oenanthum seedlings, which are very variable, as 
secondary hybrids usually are. 
-- 
RETIREMENT OF MR. DAVID THOMSON 
OF DRUMLANRIG. 
A wide circle of friends will leam with deep regret 
that Mr. David Thomson, Drumlanrig Castle 
Gardens, is soon to vacate the post of head gardener 
to His Grace the Duke of Buccleuch.haviDg decided 
to retire next May from that responsible position 
which he has held with such distinction for twenty- 
nine years. His successful career as a horticulturist, 
and manager of the princely gardens indicated, also 
at Archerfield.and during his earlier years in England 
is well known to all who have seen the work accom¬ 
plished, in every branch of horticulture, by Mr. 
Thomson s indefatigable energy and skill, and in 
every detail, that no greater achievements have been 
attained in practical gardening. 
The urbanity, kindness, and high character of Mr. 
Thomson, and his communicativeness to all who 
have sought his advice on matters of importance, as 
well as gardening, have commanded the esteem of 
very many friends. He has written with great 
lucidity on every branch of practical gardening, 
which is greatly appreciated by all readers. 
Mr. Thomson’s noble employers feel keenly the 
severance of their valued manager from their 
splendid domain, and have made the most kindly 
overtures with the view of inducing Mr. Thomson 
to remain at his post; but though activity in body 
and mind is as much in evidence as ever, health and 
advancing years must now be considered. 
• Mr. David Inglis, head gardener to Lord Grey, 
Howick Hall, Lesbury, has been appointed 
successor to Mr. Thomson. This very able all-round 
gardener well merits the choice which has been 
made.— M. Temple, Carron, N.B. 
THE ORCHID HOUSES. 
The Best Twelve Orchids. —Discussing Orchid 
culture generally, with an expert Orchidist the other 
day, the question cropped up as to the best and 
most useful dozen for those intending starting a 
collection to begin with. In arriving at our decision, 
we have put the commercial value outside the 
question, and have selected those kinds that may be 
purchased almost at Pelargonium price, and which 
are free flowering and easy to grow. Thinking it 
may help and interest amateurs, I purpose to give in 
a series of articles, our list, with cultural details. 
Taking them in alphabetical order, we have, first ; 
Aerides odoratum, a fine free-flowering species from 
China and India, which flowers during the summer 
months, and lasts a long time in good condition. 
The plants do best when grown in pots, which should 
be crocked up to within an inch of the rim, working 
the pieces in amongst the roots as the work proceeds, 
and finishing off with a good layer of live Sphagnum 
moss. Coming, as they do, from a warm country, 
they require the temperature of the stove to grow in, 
and to be placed where they can be frequently 
syringed during hot weather. They will soon make 
handsome specimens, and pay the grower for any 
extra care bestowed upon them. 
Calanthe Veitchii, is one that is almost 
impossible to leave out of a list even of a dozen only, 
on account of its season of flowering, and the ease 
with which it can be managed. For winter decora¬ 
tion it is in much request. Its culture was so 
ably dealt with in a recent article by J. M., B., 
(p. 247) that it would be a waste of space to 
refer to it again so soon in detail. Briefly then, at 
the end of February, they should be shaken out of 
the old compost and re-potted in some fresh compost, 
which may consist of two parts good loam, one 
of peat, and one of dried cow duDg or other manure. 
Add to this sufficient sand to keep all porous, and 
you have a mixture in which they delight. Use 
pots according to the size of the bulbs—one large 
one to a forty-eigjit, three medium ones to a thirty- 
two —with about two inches of drainage. Place them 
in a stove temperature, and water sparingly until the 
growths are well up, or the spot will make its 
appearance, but keep the syringe going amongst 
the pots. When well established they will take 
copious supplies. Shade from bright sunshine, or 
the foliage will becoxe spoiled and the plants 
weakened. When they have exhausted the nutri¬ 
ment of the soil in which they are potted, give weak 
doses of manure water at alternate waterings. 
Coelogyne cristata. —This is decidedly an old 
favourite, and, like the two preceeding, is almost 
indispensable, affording, as it does, a rich harvest 
of white flowers at the dull season, at a comparatively 
small outlay. As showing its cheapness and 
popularity, go where you will, you will most 
assuredly find a plant or two of this species. Its 
culture, too, is so simple that it is almost impossible 
to err. When one does so it is on the dry side ; for 
on no account should it be allowed to shrivel. Peat 
and a little moss is about the best compost in which 
to grow it, although it does not by any means 
object to a little loam or dried cow dung mixed with 
it. It does fairly well, grown cool, but the best 
results are obtained when grown in a fairly moist 
intermediate temperature.— C. 
-- 
VEGETABLE CALENDAR. 
With the ground in its present condition—chilled 
with frost and snow—little can be done in the way of 
planting or sowing ; but the first favourable oppor¬ 
tunity may be taken to make new plantations of 
Rhubarb. This is not particular as to position, and 
a spot somewhat shaded, and perhaps not suitable 
for producing first-class vegetables, may be selected. 
It grows better than most crops under the shade of 
fruit trees. Deep trenching and heavy manuring are 
necessary to produce good strong growth. Single 
crowns are best for forming new beds, and these 
should be planted in rows 4 ft. apart, and 2 ft. 6 in, 
to 3 ft. from plant to plant, according to the strength 
of the variety. Good early sorts are Hawke’s 
Champagne, Linnaeus, and Early Albert ; while for 
a late kind Victoria is unsurpassed. 
Horse-Radish.— This is another crcp that may 
be taken in hand at the present time, and new 
beds formed. Although this plant will grow in 
almost any position, good culture is necessary to 
obtain strong roots fit for scrapiDg. Straight young 
roots at least 1 ft. in length, and the stronger the 
better, should be selected for planting. These should 
be passed through the hands to within an inch of the 
top of the root, to clear off the lower eyes. Plant 
in rows 18 in. apart and 1 ft. apart in the rows. 
Artichokes. —The tubers of this plant are more 
in demand now than formerly. It is usually rele¬ 
gated to any out-of-the-way position in the gardeD, 
with the result that half the crop is too small for use. 
Given a good open spot, a free epen soil, and plenty 
of room for the development of the tops, the best 
results will be obtained. Select tubers of good shape 
for planting, in rows 3 ft. apart, allowing at least 18 
in. between each plant. Shallots may also be 
planted in rows 1 foot apart, in slightly raised beds 
of good soil. 
Cabbages.— The first opporlunity should now be 
taken to make good any losses in the autumn 
planted beds. Those pricked out from the August 
sowings will come in useful for this purpose, and 
also for forming a succession bed. The ground must 
be kept open by frequent hoeing, a process that will 
accelerate the growth of the plants considerably. 
Cauliflowers. — Where movable frames are 
available, some of the autumn sown plants may be 
placed under them, planting somewhat thickly. This 
will give them a good start of the ordinary crop, and 
give a few early dishes. Any wintered in 60 pots 
may be potted into 16’s in very rich soil, and placed 
in any cool house or frame near the glass, to bring 
them along very gradually for the present. Plants 
pricked out in frames and handlights should be well- 
ventilated to harden them in readiness for planting 
outside. 
Frames. —A movable two-light frame may be use¬ 
fully employed in making a small sowing of Brussels 
Sprouts, Walcheren, and Veitch's Autumn Giant 
Cauliflower, also a row or two of Cabbages and 
Leeks. The frame should be filled to within a few 
inches of the glass with good friable soil ; and be 
placed in a sunny position, keeping it close until the 
plants are up, afterwards ventilating freely on all 
favourable occasions, and covering at Dight duriDg 
frosty weather. 
Mint.— This will soon be required, and a few roots 
should be potted or boxed at once and placed in 
gentle heat. For forcing purposes this plant should 
be propagated the previous season, as young plants 
give much better results than roots taken from old 
beds.— J.R. 
--j-- 
THE PLANT HOUSES. 
The Stove. 
It is a good plan to give the whole of the collection 
of stove plants a thorough overhauling each year, 
and the month of February offers itself as the most 
suitable time to effect this, for the light is gradually 
increasing, although the sun has not yet sufficient 
power to try the plants much. Many of the larger 
plants stay in their pots for a number of years, either 
because they do not require extra room or by reason 
of the fact that it is undesirable for them to take up 
more space. Thus while these may be passed over 
for potting they may have a top-dressing given 
them. 
Some gardeners object to the practice of top¬ 
dressing because it is liable to be misleading as to the 
state of the roots beneath in the old sod ; and un¬ 
doubtedly there is a good deal of truth in this. A 
careful workman, however, will know by experience 
the requirements of the plants under his charge, and 
will take measures accordingly. 
Top Dressing has the advantage of giving a much 
more tidy and trim appearance, and this is worth 
something. Again, if it is properly performed, and 
as much of the old soil as possible removed its value 
is obvious. At the same time the drainage should be 
examined, and if it is not in working order pests 
must be taken to make it so. 
