406 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
February 27, 1897. 
they are invaluable throughout the winter months 
and on till early spring, and we may look in vain for 
other subjects that exhibit the self-same style of 
beauty. Hard-wooded plants of this kind are 
difficult to grow say some, but this is more of. a 
bogey than anything else, for given ordinary care 
and attention, the Epacris will yield an ample 
return. 
The greenhouse at Kew, at the time of writing 
can boast of a fine batch of sturdy young plants in 
48-sized pots. All of them, without exception, are 
well flowered; and as the collection includes a 
considerable range of colour, the whole effect is very 
brilliant, and well demonstrates the decorative value 
of the subject composing it. 
E. hyacinthiflora candidissima is a superb white 
form with a long name. Viscountess Hill exhibits a 
bright shade of scarlet that is most effective. The 
racemes of flower are extra long in this variety. E. 
ardentissima is deep cerise. Rose Perfection is well 
described by its name, inasmuch as the long very 
narrow flowers are bright rose in hue. 
The above are only a few of the cream of the 
collection, than which we have certainly seen 
nothing better in the same line this year. One of 
the good points of the Epacris is its graceful 
character, The flowers may be somewhat stiff 
individually, but the whole plant is most elegant in 
appearance, and will arrange well with Ferns and 
dwarf foliage plants. Epacrises also stand fairly 
well in dwelling rooms provided they can obtain 
some light. 
«»■ - 
LIVERPOOL HORTICULTURAL 
ASSOCIATION. 
A meeting of members of this society took place 
in the Free Library on Saturday the 13th inst., Mr. 
Thomas White in the chair. A fair number of mem¬ 
bers were present to hear the able paper by Mr. 
Hugh Ranger, on " Hippeastrums (Amaryllis).” 
As an introduction the lecturer gave a minute 
history of the plant, tracing the gradual improve¬ 
ment up to the date that Messrs. J. Veitch & Sons 
gave proof of the room for improvement. This was 
followed by full instructions as to raising the seed, 
general culture, and saving seed. For general 
cultivation seedlings were recommended, although 
in the case of choice varieties offsets should be cared 
for. The seed should be sown soon after ripening 
in June or July in a light soil, with only sufficient 
compost to cover the seed. The pan or pots should 
be plunged, which will keep the soil in a more uni¬ 
form condition ; in four or five weeks germination 
takes place, and in nine or ten weeks the seedlings 
will be ready to pot off into 2-in. pots, which should 
be plunged. The temperature of the house should 
be kept at 6o°. Syringe daily, which can be after¬ 
wards reduced as the days shorten. In another two 
months another shift can be given into 4 in. pots; 
no water other than the syringe will be required for 
the next four weeks. In February, the final shift 
into 5 in. pots can be given. Water must be again 
withheld for a few weeks, syringing according to the 
conditions of the weather. At this season it may be 
requisite to commence ventilating, keeping the 
temperature at 65°. 
About the middle of May a top dressing will prove 
beneficial, and, from this time until August, water 
may be given freely, owing to the rapid evaporation ; 
and in watering, sufficient should be given to per¬ 
meate the whole mass of soil. Shading was not 
advised if the foliage could be kept sound. About 
the middle of August, water may be gradually with¬ 
held, stopping the supply abDUt the middle of Sep¬ 
tember, and by the second week of November the 
foliage will have completely died down. The pots 
may be then placed on their sides in a medium 
temperature. 
Re-pot in batches from January to March so as to 
lengthen the season ; shake out all the soil and clear 
off all dead roots, and pot the bulbs half their 
depth in 5 in. or 6 in. pots. The compost should be 
in a fairly friable condition, when no water will be 
required for five or six weeks after repotting. When 
the flower spike shows, the pot may be lifted from 
the plunging material and stood on a stage. The 
compost recommended was two-thirds loam, one- 
third leaf mould, with sufficient silver sand to keep 
the soil open, and to each barrowful add a 5 in. pot 
of Clay's Fertiliser. 
The insects that may prove troublesome are red 
spider, thrip, mealy bug and scale. The two former 
can be held in check by syringing, and the mealy 
bug may be overpowered by syringing with sulphur 
and water—a 5 in. pot of the former to a gallon of 
water—over the foliage and the surroundings. 
In answer to inquiries, it was recommended that 
the bulbs be re-potted every year, that seed be taken 
from bulbs of any age, although this practice greatly 
reduces the vigour of the plant. 
Several flowering plants of fine varieties were 
exhibited by the lecturer, carrying four or five flowers 
on each bulb, and for comparison a variety, supposed 
to be raised over 100 years ago, caused considerable 
amusement. A cordial vote of thanks was tendered 
to Mr. Ranger for his excellent paper.— R.G.W. 
-- 
SPECIMEN CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
Someone else sore ! Well ! I cannot help it! and 
can only refer him to my answer to "’Mum” 
(p. 374 )- Till reading " ' Mums " first article (p.294) 
I never knew of a society or ever read a schedule 
where more than one plant was allowed in a pot. 
And that such a thing exists, as theydoby " ’Mum's" 
own showing, is a disgrace to horticulture. No one 
can speak too strongly on this point. Turning to 
"Beche” (p. 374), just let him imagine that every 
mother's child is perfection in her sight, and no 
authority on earth will convince her otherwise. So 
it is with gardeners : many plants are, to their mind, 
absolutely perfection, but anon they go to the show, 
and they find things different. They then see that a 
little bit more of this, or the other, would have just 
made the difference. Next year the man without 
means shows the same plant (perhaps a trifle better), 
but only finds again that he is defeated by a new and 
telling variety. This is the struggle after perfection, 
and yet where is the limit ? 
How any one, much more growers, can advise 
societies to set up a standard of excellence, perhaps 
“ perfection ” is a more suitable word, is past my 
comprehension. At the present day it would only 
mean a standard of perfection that could be made 
moveable in any direction. 
I don't know whether “ ’ Mum ’■ or '• Beche ” are 
learned ones in the new varieties of’Mums. My 
opinion is that there never was so much advance 
before as there has been of late. The old ones are 
not in it, and all this in no time. What I want to 
make plain is this—that the judge’s idea of what a 
specimen should be last year will not do for this. 
Again, as to taking my own physic, I can take that, 
even if it is defeat. I never make a practice of 
judging a plant before the card is on. Let " Beche ” 
also not forget that my reason for not growing a 
plantation was not the same as " ’Mums." Excessive 
staking, also training, does away with beauty that is 
perfectly natural to plants. I have seen specimens 
twisted and tied down in every conceivable way. 
What objects were these 1 and yet, perhaps, they 
were perfection in someone's eyes. Our profession 
is nothing but one long continued run of changes and 
new things. Those perfect judges of a while back 
will not do for the future. 
Lastly, the man that grew Val d'Andorre for 
York Exhibition, for anything I know, left a better 
at home for Leeds, or his next show. After per¬ 
fection is reached nothing remains. There would be 
no advance. Monotony would set in. Then where 
are we ? Therefore,I think it best for us all to have 
our own idea of what perfection is, notwithstanding 
that it is only to be topped over by someone else, 
thereby crushing some completely, but giving more 
power to others.— J. G. Hettinger, Strawberry Dale 
Nursery, Harrogate. 
--*•- 
It is important now to have the work in this depart¬ 
ment well in hand ; and all operations such as 
trenching and preparing the ground, which may have 
been delayed owing to the state of the weather or 
other causes, should be carried out as early as 
possible. All ground should be cleared of the refuse 
of used up crops, such as Brussels Sprouts, Broccoli, 
&c., and the ground manured and prepared in accord¬ 
ance with the requirements of the succeeding crop. 
A short interval of exposure of the surface of the 
ground to the beneficial influence of the atmosphere, 
is better than none, as both seedling and transplanted 
plants grow away more freely than in newly dug 
land. Solar heat and drying winds are the two 
things needed at the present time to bring the ground 
into good condition for sowing and transplanting. 
When these conditions have been secured the main 
crop of Parsnips may be sown, especially where size 
and weight of crop are the main object. The ground 
should be well pulverised and deeply worked to get 
good roots. Where exhibition roots are expected, 
special culture will be necessary. This consists in 
making holes 2 ft. to 3 ft. deep and filling them with 
prepared sandy soil, and sowing on the top of each 
hole, finally selecting the strongest plant to remain. 
Where quality is the object sought for then defer 
the sowing to the end of March or early in April, 
when roots of medium size, but of the highest quality, 
will be the result. 
Seakale. —Where there is a good stock of this 
still on hand a bed may be formed in a skeleton 
frame, placing the roots a few inches apart, and 
covering the whole with dry leaves to the depth of 
8 or 10 in. This bed formed outside will give a late 
supply of tender growth, and come in most useful, 
when variety in vegetables is not abundant. As the 
crowns will now under any circumstances commence 
to swell, the whole of the remaining stock should be 
covered with a few inches of light material to keep 
the points of the shoots blanched; otherwise, no 
after treatment will get them into a blanched condi¬ 
tion. A plentiful supply of cuttings for next year’s 
crop should be secured, and these may now be 
placed in boxes in fine soil, and stood under the 
stages of a cool house or in a frame. This will give 
them a month's start of cuttings not so treated, and 
will greatly assist in securing an early and long season 
of growth. 
Mushrooms. —The present is a good time for the 
formation of beds outside for a late spring, and early 
summer, supply. The same care and condition in turn¬ 
ing, and sweetening the manure are necessary as for 
beds formed in the mushroom house. Any shady posi¬ 
tion may be selected, such as against a north wall or 
under standard fruit trees. The main point is not to 
allow the heat to decline much before spawning, and 
earthing up these outside beds. Afterwards protect the 
beds with a good layer of litter, and throw a mat 
over the whole to retain the heat as long as possible. 
Salading. —-A regular supply will now be appreci¬ 
ated, and a few Lettuces placed under glass now will 
soon commence active growth. Successional sowings 
of Radishes under glass should be kept up, and a bed 
may be sown outside in a sheltered position A 
small sowing of Celery for the earliest crop should 
be made, selecting a good white kind, as it blanches 
quicker than the red kinds. 
Vegetable Marrows. —For growing in frames on 
slight hot beds a sowing may be made of the 
medium-sized kinds. Grow the plants on from the 
seed pan without check, and an early crop will be 
had without much difficulty.— J.R. 
— 
THE PLANT HOUSES. 
The Stove. 
With the longer days and the increased light and 
warmth things here are beginning to move nicely. 
The time has now come when the syringe may be 
started to work again after its winter's rest. The 
morning syringing mav be given about nine o'clock 
for the first part of , oming month, but the after¬ 
noon turn should ou s n early enough to allow of 
the plants drying bei-io nightfall. Air must be 
given very cautiously; indeed some growers keep 
their stoves very close throughout March (giving 
scarcely any air), and this plan has a good deal to 
recommend it, as it assists plants which have been 
cut back, or others which have been disturbed a good 
deal at the roots, to break quickly into growth. 
The temperature should not now be allowed to fall 
below 65° Fahr. by night. The intermediate com¬ 
partment may stand at about 6o°. In both cases a 
substantial rise by day will be required. The fire 
will not need to be driven so hard, and if the day 
shows promise of turning out bright the fire must be 
banked down in good time. On the other hand, if 
cold, biting winds prevail, and March has an 
unenviable reputation in this respect, brisk fireheat 
will be necessary all the day. March is, indeed, one 
of the most trying months of the year, inasmuch as 
it usually comprises a series of rapid changes from 
one extreme to the other. 
