504 
THE GARDENING WORLD, 
April 10 , 1897 . 
A 
Disbudding Wall Peaches.— If there is one part of 
Peach culture more than another that is liable to 
puzzle an ordinary amateur cultivator, it is the 
disbudding of Peaches. That we are well within the 
mark in making this statement receives abundant 
proof from the fact that so many trees are to be met 
with that are suffering from the effects brought 
about by lack of this particular attention. The poor 
trees are crowded with a lot of weak, ill-ripened 
growths that mutually injure the fruiting powers of 
the other. Now the fact that disbudding is not 
practised is an effect in itself of which the probable 
cause is lack of knowledge. Another cause there 
may be certainly, viz , carelessness, but we would 
not impute this wantonly to the amateur who is 
certainly the most painstaking of all cultivators; 
indeed, he oftentimes puts himself to a great deal 
more trouble than there is any necessity for. 
Now most people will readily grasp the idea that 
it is necessary to remove a portion of the fruit in 
order that the size and quality of the remainder may 
be improved, and also that the resources of the tree 
may be husbanded. The same principle applies to 
the removal of some of the young shoots, those that 
remain profiting immensely by the thinning, both 
with regard to the reception of increased nutriment, as 
well as the enjoyment of more light and air, in them¬ 
selves important factors in securing the health, 
vigour, and fruitfulness of a shoot. 
The pruning of Peaches in reality begins with the 
removal of unnecessary shoots in the spring, and the 
operation finds a fitting sequel in the winter when 
the shoots that are of no further service are removed 
because they have fulfilled their allotted task. The 
winter pruning is greatly lightened by proper 
attention given throughout the year, and may, if 
desired, be rendered almost unnecessary. Certain, 
it is, however, that if we want to husband the 
strength of our trees, and keep them in a fruitful 
condition by insuring a sufficient supply of suc- 
cessional shoots, we cannot afford to neglect dis¬ 
budding. 
Every tree produces many more growths than is 
necessary. Some of these nature prunes by render¬ 
ing abortive their attempts to become branches, but 
we ourselves may save nature the trouble by taking 
away those that are not wanted, and leaving 
others in suitable positions, so that they may carry 
on the work of the tree, which is, of course, to bear 
fruit. 
After the flowers have all dropped and the wood 
buds have pushed out several leaves, a start with 
disbudding must be made. The great point to 
observe is that it must be done gradually. Too 
many shoots removed at once would cause a serious 
check in the flow of the sap. The fruits being borne 
upon wood made during the previous year, it is 
manifest that shoots which are bearing fruit this 
year will not do so next, and that unless they are 
needed to extend the spread of the tree they will 
have to be cut away at the winter pruning, or after 
the fruit has been gathered, if it is so desired. The 
shoot at the base of the present year's fruiting 
branch should be left to form a succession shoot. 
This, besides beiDg as close to the base as possible, 
should be on one side of the branch bearing it, but 
must not spring from the side nearest the glass, or 
from underneath the tree, for it would then require 
some bending to get the succession shoot into position 
on the wires. A shoot near the top of the bearing 
branch should be trained on so as to cause a free 
circulation of sap, but intermediate growths may be 
removed at various intervals, thus giving room for 
the succession shoot at the base to be trained in 
alongside the branch whose place it is presently to 
take. If, on the other hand, the bearing branch is 
long, two shoots may be trained in for succession. 
On this point, however, we must perforce leave 
the cultivator to decide for himself. If two shoots 
are required, by, all means lay them in, but under 
any circumstances avoid over-crowding. 
Cucumbers in Frames. — Supposing the plants 
to have been successfully planted at the beginning of 
last month they will now have recovered the slight 
check and will be growing away freely. The tops 
should, therefore, be pinched out at once. This will 
induce the plants to throw out a number of side 
growths, which will not be long in covering the area 
of the frame. One plant will ultimately cover the 
area of an ordinary light, but two plants will 
naturally do it much quicker. Earlier plants that 
were consigned to the hotbed at the beginning of 
March, and were stopped in this way, have now 
reached the sides of the frame, where the growths 
must again be stopped. Should the growths become 
rather crowded there need be no fear of pinching 
them out, since unlike the Melon, the Cucumber will 
bear any amount of cutting about with equanimity. 
Close shade will be necessary in bright weather, and 
this will do away with the necessity for giving a 
great deal of air, a chink of about an inch wide at 
the top and bottom of alternate lights being quite 
enough with the shading. The plants should be 
syringed, and the frame shut up about 3 p.m. for 
this month, but after that it may be left open for 
another hour. Plenty of water, plenty of heat, and 
fairly close shade are what Cucumbers require to do 
them well. 
Early Peas.—The fine weather during the third 
week in March gave a good opportunity for planting 
out Peas that had been raised under glass, but the 
poor plants have had a sorry time of it since they were 
transferred to the open ground. Frost, snow, wind, 
and rain have all had a go at them. If the plants 
are tall varieties, it will be well to stake them at 
once, for the stakes will not only break the force of 
the wind but they give facilities for protecting from 
frost. Dwarf varieties may be best sheltered by 
running up a framework of light wooden spars 
around them and covering with mats. These mats 
should be put on at nightfall if it threatens to be 
at all cold. 
Top-dressing Liliums.—In referring previously to 
the potting of Lilium Harrisii, L auratum, L. 
speciosum albiflorum, L. s. roseum, and other 
Liliums suitable for pot culture, we laid stress upon 
the fact that when potting was complete the pots 
should not be more than two-thirds full of soil to 
allow sufficient room for subsequent top-dressings. 
The need for some top-dressing will now be evident, 
if the plants are fairly strong and healthy, for at the 
base of the stem thrown out from the bulb will be 
seen a mass of thick fleshy roots. In order to obtain 
the best results these roots must be brought at once 
into contact with good soil. The top-dressing should 
consist of two parts of good loam, and one part of 
cow manure with a sprinkling of sand. Make it 
pretty firm by means of the rammer, but do not 
fill the pots up higher than within half an inch of 
the top of the rim. The plants will require a good 
deal of water presently, and room must be allowed 
so that it can be given easily. 
Tomatos for the Open. — Plants that are intended 
for planting in the open when the season is a little 
further advanced, have now*got well hold of the soil 
in the 32-size pots into which they have been shifted 
from the thumbs. They should have been given a 
light stake each after potting, and if this has not 
been done they must be looked to at once. Shift 
them out of the warmer house into a cold frame of 
sufficient depth so that their tops may not be bent 
by pressure against the glass. Keep the frame close 
for a week, thence commence to air freely until 
finally at the end of the month, if the weather prove 
favourable, the lights may be drawn off altogether 
during the day, and put on the last thing at night.— 
Rex. 
-—- 
Correspondence. 
Questions asked by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening will be answered on this page. 
A nyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
"Amateurs' Page " on the top of their letters. 
Iron Houses.— Alpha wishes to know why iron is 
disliked as material wherewith to construct green¬ 
houses, and wishes to know if it exercises any harm¬ 
ful effect upon the plants. 
Wood is usually preferred to iron for the construc¬ 
tion of greenhouses chiefly because the latter is so 
much colder than the wood. Again, the iron is 
liable to rust and then presents a dirty appearance. 
Once it gets rusty, moreover, no amount of paintiDg 
will keep the house clean for long together, for the 
rust soon works through the paint, cr rather the 
paint does not take well to the rusty iron. For large 
houses, however, iron is much used on account of its 
greater rigidity and strength. If kept properly 
painted plants do well enough in such houses, and 
it cannot be truly said that iron exercises a directly 
prejudicial effect upon them other than being rather 
colder than the word. 
Spiraea japonica —Is a plant of this any further 
service after the flowers are over. If so, what would 
you advise me to do with it.— T., Warminster. 
The plant will not be of any use for forcing next 
year, so you must give it a rest until the year 
following. Plant it out in the garden presently and 
there let it remain until the autumn of 1895, 'when 
it may be potted up and flowered indoors. If you 
keep it in the pot you will only succeed in starving it, 
for Spiraeas are free-rooting things and need a lot 
of water. Therefore you will save both time and 
trouble by planting out. 
Edging Plants.—Will you please tell me what 
plants are suitable for the front row of a greenhouse 
stage ? I should like something that would droop 
over if possible. I have some plants of Isolepis 
gracilis.— Vera. 
Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums are a host in themselves, 
and if they are not staked at all will droop gracefully 
over the side of the stage in the manner you suggest. 
Campanula isophylla and C. isophylla alba also do 
well like this. Then you may have Mimulus 
Harrisoni and Blue Lobelias—the two make a most 
effective contrast. 
Isolepis gracilis.—Please tell me the best time of 
the year to divide Isolepis gracilis. My plants are 
very strong, but I should like more of them.— Vera. 
You may split up your plants at any time. Keep 
them rather close in a warm house for a couple of 
weeks after division. They will soon recover them¬ 
selves, and will be ready to go into the conservatory 
at the end of the time specified. 
Pruning Camellia. - F. Bowden . —If your plant 
is of good shape and there are no scraggy branches 
it will not need pruning at all, but will just want 
to be let alone. Pruning is only needed when the 
plants are of bad shape or have a lot of half naked 
branches. You must not run away with the idea 
that a gardener prunes a plant periodically for the 
same reason that many people take their breakfast, 
viz., because it is customary to do so. Pruning is 
conducted with a definite object in view. 
Planting Pear Trees.— R. G. —It is too late now 
to think of planting or shifting fruit trees—except 
Figs. 
On Flowering Carnations in Winter.—Many 
amateur Carnation growers think, and not with¬ 
out some reason, that the term "Winter-flowering" as 
applied to a section of Carnations is a misnomer ; 
because, a'though they grow these winter-flowering 
plants, they obtain no flowers till long after winter is 
passed. But to obtain bright flowers in winter we 
must make use of the summer sun, prepare our 
plants for winter service in the golden summertide, 
and flowers will be sure to follow. 
If we want to force Strawberries and obtain ripe 
fruit in early spring, we take care to choose the best 
runners only, give them every attention, and utilise 
all the natural forces to obtain ripe crowns. In 
other words, we grow the plants and prepare the buds 
and flowers in embryo before the dark, dull days 
begin, so that when we place the plants under the 
more favourable conditions of a forcing-house temper¬ 
ature the flowers very soon expand. 
The same method must be followed if good Carna¬ 
tions are to be had ia winter. The buds must be 
formed in a well-ripened growth. Choose good 
healthy shoots or grass, layer early, and pot up as 
soon as the layers are well rooted. Do not be afraid 
to pot firmly, and when the pots are filled with roots, 
which under favourable circumstances would be (if 
the plants were layered in July) at the end of August 
or early in September, expose them to all the 
sunshine and air possible. Don’t saturate them 
always with water, but keep them moderately dry, 
and it will be found that many will exhibit a tendency 
to throw up a flower spike, and, with a greenhouse, 
very little difficulty will be found in persuading the 
blooms from such plants to expand at any time 
during the dull months. 
This is a method I have successfully practised with 
Uriah Pike, Souvenir de la Malmaison, and a few 
other varieties. I recommend this to amateurs w^o 
find it difficult to strike cuttings in spring. Where 
