538 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
April 24, 1897. 
and it is by no means inferior to its predecessors. 
It is certainly one of the most distinct and beautiful 
of all hybrid Cypripediums. It received a First- 
class Certificate when exhibited by Messrs. J. Veitch 
& Sons at the Drill Hall on November 24th last. 
The dorsal sepal is white, shaded rose at the top, 
pale green at the base, and heavily lined from the 
base upwards with bright purple ; there is also 
some spotting of the same colour. The petals have 
the deflexed character of the pollen parent, and are 
pale green, heavily lined with dark brown. The 
lip is dark brown, shading to green. This was 
raised by Mr. J. Seden.— C. J. H. 
--+>- 
MUSHROOMS.* 
Many years ago it was considered a great feat 
amongst Gardeners to be successful in the art of 
growing Mushrooms; but it cannot be said the 
gardener, who is up-to-date to-day, can claim to have 
done anything remarkable by having a regular supply 
of choice Mushrooms almost the entire year round, 
provided of course, that he has conveniences of a 
suitable character. Yet, there are many who have 
tried and failed, and there are few indeed who some¬ 
time or other, have not had to taste the bitters of 
non-success. I cannot claim to be one of those who 
have never had a failure, but I am happy to say that 
the one I did have was my initial venture, and I 
claim for it my ultimate success. It so happened 
that we had no Mushroom house, no manure, and no 
place to prepare any, and in fact nothing that gave 
any encouragement to grow Mushrooms ; but I was 
asked to grow them and of course had to try. Two 
cartloads of horse droppings were ordered from an 
hostlery, and when it arrived the water was running 
out of the carts,.so wet had it become through bad 
weather. The next difficulty was how to get this 
dried, but through time, by the addition of dry leaves, 
dry soil and keeping it covered from the rain with 
boards, it was at length got into fairly good order, 
and the bed made up outside and spawned. The 
result was a complete failure, for no Mushrooms ever 
appeared. 
This bed was made up in the middle of November, 
and the following April it was wheeled on to a space 
in the kitchen garden, dug [in and Brussels Sprouts 
planted. Iu the early autumn of the same year I 
was agreeably surprised to find a splendid lot of 
Mushrooms growing amongst the Sprouts, so what 
at first proved a hopeless failure eventually became 
a success, but quite by accident. In the first place 
the manure was far too wet, as much of the very 
essence of what makes Mushroom growth a success, 
the ammonia, was washed out of it. Then when the 
bed was made up there was hardly a sufficient 
quantity to heat properly owing to its wet condition t 
and of course the spawn did not run until the natural 
heat of the sun had set it in motion, just at the time 
it was removed to the kitchen garden. For want of 
experience and observation I deemed this course 
necessary to make some use of the manure, but had 
I been more watchful and left it alone the bed would, 
no doubt, have borne a good crop. I mention these 
facts to show how easy it is to fail, and exactly 
where another more observant would have succeeded 
There can be no doubt that failures have their value, 
but only to those who take sufficient interest in the 
matter to find out where they were wrong, and profit 
thereby. 
To be enabled to keep up a regular supply of 
Mushrooms a house for the purpose is necessary. _ I 
do not mean that good crops cannot be had in any 
other way, but where there is a daily demand, then 
there is every possibility of supplying it. There is 
no doubt that where a cellar or under ground house 
can be spared this is the best means for a constant 
supply, as an even temperature is secured without 
fire heat and little or no watering of the beds is 
necessary ; consequently the beds produce a greater 
crop over a longer period. There are few places 
where this can be had, but it is within the reach of 
every garden, however small, to have a Mushroom 
house. 
The best position is on the north side of a wall, 
and for preference build in conjunction with some 
other structure, such as a tool shed, potting shed, 
etc., so as to enable the door of the Mushroom house 
to open into the other. The object of this is to pre- 
A paper read by Mr. James Gibson at the meeting of the 
Chiswick Gardeners’ Mutual Improvement Association, on 
February 18th, 1897, 
vent cold cutting winds from damaging the crop 
while replenishing the beds. The walls are best 
plastered and lime-washed, and the framework to 
hold the beds should be made of wood. Many 
prefer slate or iron as being more durable, of which 
there can be no doubt, but I prefer the wood as being 
warmer and more kindly to the crop, 
Our Mushroom house is a small one, being 9 ft. 
wide, by 18 ft. long, and contains five beds. It is 
very convenient, opening into the potting shed, and 
fitted with hot water. The beds are 12 in. deep, 
and 3 ft. wide, leaving 3 ft. for the passage. Of 
course the size of a Mushroom house must always 
depend on the quantity of produce required, but the 
gardener has not always the making of the house, 
and has to make the best of what he has got. In our 
case we have a daily demand from the autumn till 
late in the spring, and we keep a record of the results 
of the beds collectively. In the autumn of 1894, and 
the following spring, we picked daily for sixteen 
weeks, with an average of if lb. at each gathering. 
In the autumn of 1895 and spring of 1896, we had a 
run of twenty-six weeks’ picking daily without a 
break, an average of 2 lbs. per gathering ; and from 
last autumn up to the present time we have picked 
for seventeen weeks, and though we failed on two 
days, we had an average of just under 2 lb. per day. 
Instead of making the shelves of close boarding it 
is much more profitable to have the wood cut in 
spars 3 in. wide, and place them the same distance 
apart. This affords a ready means of securing a 
crop on the under side of the bed as well as on the side 
and top. Many Mushroom houses have no shelves, 
the beds being made on the floor ; but a considerable 
amount of room is necessary for this method, also a 
greater quantity of piping. In any case a dry 
bottom must be secured or the heat of the beds will 
not be maintained. It is as well to have the house 
heated with hot water in case of emergency, but the 
less artificial heat, the longer the beds will remain in 
bearing, so long [as a growing atmosphere can be 
kept up. A convenient place for the pipes is imme¬ 
diately under the path, not forgetting plenty of 
evaporating pans, which will help in a measure to 
prevent a dry heat which should always be guarded 
against. 
I have spoken of the Mushroom house, but it is 
equally as necessary to have a structure in which to 
prepare the manure. One cannot over-estimate the 
importance of having it in proper condition, and 
without a shed it is not possible in wet weather. 
Nothing elaborate is required, but any shed that is 
water-proof, where plenty of air can play on the 
manure to dry it when needed, is quite sufficient. 
The next matter of importance is the preparation 
of the material to form the bed. There are 
differences of opinion as to whether droppings from 
the stables alone are better than when fresh leaves 
and soil are added. Where plenty of droppings can 
be had, and at the same time never allowed to get 
wet, this, I consider is the better of the two plans, 
because of being richer in feeding properties. But 
on the other hand I have frequently added leaves 
when the manure seemed rather wet, and in reality 
little difference in the crop was noticeable. The 
droppings are best collected daily where possible, and 
to facilitate matters a barrow or box can be left con¬ 
veniently near the stables, where it can be filled 
without trouble. The droppings should be spread 
thinly in the shed after shaking out the long litter, 
but there is no need to be over-particular to get all 
the short straw out; in fact a little is an advantage 
in helping to retain the heat in the bed after it is put 
up. It is a safe plan to turn over this daily to pre¬ 
vent heating. After sufficient has been collected the 
whole should be gathered and thrown together 
to ferment, in an oblong heap to the depth of 
three feet. This is better than making the heap 
conical, as there is less chance of violent heating. 
Assuming that the material has had no rain, there 
should be sufficient moisture in it naturally to 
ferment; but after it has been under the heating 
process a day or two it will easily be noticed whether 
there is sufficient or not enough moisture. This is 
usually the point where success or failure originates, 
and I need hardly emphasise the necessity of strict 
attention at this period. One must be guided here 
by experience, and I venture to say that no amount 
of theory alone can successfully guide you. If the 
manure is rather wet, an addition of dry leaves and 
soil will sweeten it, and will also help to absorb the 
ammonia that might otherwise escape in the atmos¬ 
phere. If too dry a slight sprinkling of water 
through a fine rose as it is being turned over will 
soon put matters right. Usually three turnings are 
sufficient, but more may be required if the heat is 
too strong; and to be in the best condition it should 
be something of the nature of a sponge, when pressed 
together with the hand. If it should spring back to 
its former shape when the hand is opened without 
leaving it wet, but just sufficiently moist to slightly 
stain it, then all is well. 
The formation of the bed must now be decided 
upon, but I will take those of the usual Mushroom 
house character in the first place. As I mentioned 
before having a sparred framework to hold the 
beds, it will be necessary to cover the bottom of the 
bed with fresh cut turf about ij iu. in thickness, 
placing the grass side inwards. Next to this pieces 
of spawn should be regularly laid down every 8 in. 
apart, then the manure spread on the top. It will 
be noticed that I advise the spawning for the bottom 
to be done in this manner, as it is difficult to insert 
it through the narrow spaces from the under side of 
the bed. No fear need be entertained as to the 
spawn getting burned, as the heat of the bed rises 
upwards, and the spawn being close to the bottom is 
quite safe. The manure should be thinly and equally 
spread as the bed is made up, so as to allow the 
heating to become regular, and the whole beat 
firmly. Of course a line must again be drawn as to 
the condition of the material, but if in proper order 
you cannot readily make the bed too firm. For this 
purpose we use a piece of wood in the shape of a 
brick and beat it by hand, as it is surest. A depth 
of 12 in. to 15 in. is sufficient, and after being made 
up a thermometer should be plunged in it, and a 
watch kept how the heating is going on. Many 
people consider this practice waste of time, and of 
being too particular, as a stick or two inserted and 
examined frequently is near enough for them. This 
may be so by chance, but the beginner is much safer 
with the thermometer. 
After the temperature has risen and has fallen to 
85° the spawn should be inserted on the top. Here 
again; to the inexperienced a difficulty may come in 
the way ; the heat may not rise at all ; but if other 
conditions are properly carried out there is little fear 
of the heat not rising. I have often noticed the heat 
rise to 120°, but ion° is about our average. I never 
like to see the heat get up suddenly, after the bed is 
put up. The slower it rises and recedes the longer 
the heat suitable for the spawn running will be 
maintained. As regards the spawn itself there can 
be no question of the advantage of having it fresh. 
This we have often proved by spawning one half of a 
bed with that obtained, say, a year previous, and the 
other half with the new materials. In each case the 
Mushrooms came up well, but the fresh spawn runs 
the quicker, and the crop is usually fit for gathering 
a fortnight before the other. It is remarkable how 
long spawn will retain its vitality if kept in a dry 
room. I once had an opportunity of using spawn 
that was twenty-five years old. It was about four 
months before there was an appearance of Mush¬ 
rooms (except a stray one), and the crop was only 
fair and not at all profitable. The depth at which 
the spawn should be inserted is the next point, and 
having tried it at 4 in., 3 in., and 2 in. deep, and also 
merely covered, I have come to the conclusion that 
the last-named is the best. It is easily done with 
the hand, and a very short time is necessary to 
spawn a bed. It is a mistake to break the spawn 
into, too small pieces, 2 in. square beiDg a good size. 
The beds should be covered without delay, with 
soil that is of a rich character. The best that we 
have found is that in which Chrysanthemums have 
previously been grown. 
--— 
YUCCAS. 
Among our hardy plants of distinct growth and 
handsome appearance the Yuccas or Adam’s Needle 
will always maintain a foremost position ; and besides 
their unique beauty as fine foliaged plants, they 
possess the advantage of being among the most 
stately hardy flowering plants we possess, adapted 
for the creation of sub-tropical effects. Flourishing 
in any ordinary good garden soil, but prefering one 
of a warm dry nature, they will stand our most 
severe winters in exposed situations. A single 
specimen always attracts notice, but to see Yuccas 
to the best advantage they should be planted in 
groups of one variety, with the possible exception of 
