696 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
July 3, 1897. 
INTS FOR AMATEURS. 
Greenhouses in Hot Weather —Now that we are in 
the midst of the hot weather it may be of service to 
note the way in which greenhouses should be treated 
during the summer months. If they are not properly 
looked after, the plants have a very hard time of it 
indeed, and would really do better out of doors. 
Now and again we see houses belonging to amateurs 
which can be little else than death traps for the poor 
plants that are expected to live in them, and we are 
induced to pen these lines in the hope that they may 
assist in bringing about a better state of affairs. At 
all times of the year light, air, and water are 
necessary for the preservation of plant life. These 
conditions are modified to a considerable extent 
according to the time of the year, and the treat¬ 
ment varies accordingly. Thus in the winter months 
a sufficiency of light is difficult to obtain, and every 
gleam of direct sunlight that can be accorded the 
plants beneficial. Now we have light and to spare 
and the difficulty is to shield the plants from the 
direct sunlight during the greater part of the day. 
Many amateurs go to the extreme and keep their 
plants in a state of semi-darkness which is as 
injurious to the welfare of the plants in one way as 
exposure to the full blaze of the sun would be in 
another. This is mistake number one then, and we 
would caution all against covering glass houses or 
frames with heavy mats or rugs to the exclusion of 
so much of the all-important light. Light in abun¬ 
dance is needed for healthy growth but it should be 
“ diffused " like that obtained on a dull day. 
Ventilation also deserves to be discussed to some 
extent. Air, of course, may be put on very freely 
but it is not advisable to throw open the doors and 
ventilators of the house as widely as possible. This 
is often done in a desperate attempt to keep down 
the temperature of the house. To throw the doors 
wide open in such a fashion really makes the house 
hotter and drier, and hence more unkindly for the 
plants It must be remembered that the atmosphere 
of the greenhouse is much more heavily charged with 
moisture than the surrounding air, and to throw the 
house open so wide is the quickest and surest way of 
dissipating the moisture. 
On very hot days, then, the best plan is to open 
both top and side ventilators lo a fair extent, and to 
shade pretty closely, meanwhile keeping the door 
shut. An occasional sprinkling of water on the 
paths and beneath and on the riant stages will 
greatly assist. Such a house is much cooler and 
more kindly for plants than one that has doors and 
ventilators opened to their widest extent. 
Watering —The summer months severely test the 
ability of the amateur to water properly, and it is at 
such times that the practice of giving water in 
insufficient dribbles is attended with the most fatal 
results. The best time to water is at the close of the 
afternoon, when a thorough soaking should be given. 
Subjects that are very pot-bound may require 
another dose next morning, but generally speaking 
most plants that are thoroughly watered overnight 
will go until the following evening, except in the case 
of very hot days. 
Chrysanthemums are a notable exception to this, 
and as the season wears along will require to be 
looked to twice or even thrice a day. Even now 
healthy plants are fast filling their pots with roots, 
and this means that the watering-can must not be 
allowed to remain idle Those plants which are 
being grown on for the production of large flowers 
and thus attain to a great height will need special 
contrivances to give them support. Stakes, of course, 
may be used in the earlier stages, but these soon get 
too short, unless they are like Hop-poles. The safest 
way to do is to stand the plants in a row and drive 
into the ground tall stout stakes at intervals of about 
9 ft. Between these, pieces of stout twine or small 
ropes may be stretched and the plants may then be 
easily secured to them. 
Alpine Plants in Pots.—Not a few lovers of Alpine 
plants are compelled by circumstances to grow the 
greater part of their favourites in pots, as they have 
not room to build a rockery for their accommodition. 
The months of June, July, and August are very 
trying for these poor pot plants, for they get almost 
roasted out of existence The best method of getting 
ever the difficulty is to plunge the pots to the rims in 
ashes and cover them with a cold frame. The glass 
lights will not be required so they can be taken away 
and stored out of harm’s way. Their places can be 
taken by a sort of light wooden trellis-work, made of 
thin spars of wood about f in. in width. These, 
when nailed upon cross-pieces with spaces of about 
J in. between them are very handy contrivances. 
They shield the plants beneath from the hot rays of 
the sun, and thus keep them delightfully cdoI, but at 
the same time they admit the light and air in abun¬ 
dance. We should advise all those who have choice 
Alpine plants to invest in a few of these screens. 
Cucumbers that were planted early in the season 
and commenced to fruit about the middle of March 
have now become nearly exhausted. The frames are 
full of stems and shabby leaves, and the plants look 
as if their best days were past. To root them out, 
remake the bed and plant young stuff would seem to 
be the course that naturally recommends itself, but 
this should not be too hastily followed. Young 
plants, while they would be sure to do well, would 
yet take a little time to grow into the fruiting stage. 
Now if by following another plan we can reduce this 
period of waiting, and obtain as good or Dearly as 
good results, surely this will be better than the first 
course. The renovation of the old plants is decidedly 
the better way, that is to say, if they are fairly 
healthy and free from disease, in which case by 
judicious treatment they may be given, as it were, a 
new lease of life. The first thing to do is to subject 
the plants to a pretty severe thinning or pruning. 
Cut out all the weak and spindly growths, together 
with any that appear cankered or worn out. The 
greater part of the old dirty leaves will come away at 
the same time. The growths that remain should be 
pegged down all over the bed, taking care to 
distribute them pretty evenly. Then a top dressing 
of rich soil should be given, working this all over the 
surface and firming it with the hands alone. The 
frame will subsequently require to be kept close, and 
the syringe must be employed regularly morning and 
afternoon. Shade will likewise be an essential. 
Within a space of about a couple of weeks fresh 
leaves will be produced, and fruit will follow in due 
course. The fruit may possibly not be quite so large 
and fine as that borne on the young plants, but it 
will make up in quantity what each indivdual lacks 
in size. 
Syringing.—Indoors and out during the summer 
months the syringe is of the greatest service. Most 
amateurs know full well that many plants grown in 
glasshouses need syringing regularly during the 
warm weather, but they do not apply the same 
principle to some o.her outside plants. Violas and 
Pansies, for instance, benefit greatly by a nightly 
shower bath during the warm weather, and many 
successful growers adopt this practice where 
practicable. The syringing has the two fold effect 
of helping to supply the plants with moisture, and of 
warding off the attacks of red spider which so many 
lovers of Violas, more especially those growing in 
proximity to large towns, have to deplore. 
Chrysanthemums, again, should always be kept 
sprinkled morning and evening throughout the 
summer months. It is astonishing to see how the 
foliage improves under this treatment. Dry, hot, 
dusty times are very trying to plants as well as to 
animals, and the luxury of a bath is always appreci¬ 
ated at such times. Just now the plants are picking 
up from the check received by them during potting, 
and while they will not need a great deal of water at 
the root the sprinklings with the syringe will be 
doubly grateful. , 
Roses should be syringed regularly up to the time 
they open their flowers, and although such heavy 
shower baths must not be given when the flowers 
are open a soft dewing over will not come amiss. 
Peaches and Nectarines, we may lay especial 
stress on Any able bodied amateur who has Peach 
or Nectarine trees on open walls, and who would 
like an hour's exercise now and again in the evening 
may take a syringe in hand and fire away at the 
trees. The foliage will thus receive inestimable 
good thereby. Cold hard water like that drawn 
from a well should never be employed. Soft water 
if it can be obtained is the best, and in addition to 
being soft it must be fairly clean or the deposit of a 
sediment upon the leaves that will result will defeat 
one of the objects for which the S) ringing was 
given. 
The syringes supplied by most firms are furnished 
with several movable tops to screw on and off, for 
use as the owner wills. They generally include a 
coarse or a fine rose and a jet top. The first two 
are of very little use whatever, and very few 
gardeners do anything else than throw them on one 
side, sticking solely to the jet. This throws a jet of 
water about | of an inch in diameter. By sideward 
pressure with the forefinger upon this stream it may 
be broken up into a very fine spray if desired, and 
experience will soon teach the amateur how to regu¬ 
late and direct this spray with far more nicety than 
could be obtained by using a rose, and with as little 
fear of wettiDg himself or any other person who may 
be standing near — Rex. 
Correspondence. 
Questions asked by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening will be answered on this page. 
A nyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
" Amateurs' Page " on the top of their letters. 
Corchorus japonicus is not the correct name of the 
Jew's Mallow, A.B., but Kerria japonica. The 
plant was introduced from Japan as far back as the 
year 1,700, and may be occasionally met with in 
gardens under the name Corchorus, but the ether 
and correct name is now pretty well established. 
The genus Corchorus is closely allied to Tilia, that 
of Kerria belongs to the natural order Rosaceae. 
Single Stocks — Argo : It is very seldom indeed 
that the whole of a batch of seedlings will come 
double, more or less of them are sure to throw single 
flowers. These should be weeded out as soon as 
seen, if double ones only are wanted, and their places 
filled by others. Some of the better single forms, 
however, are of great beauty, and produce an abund¬ 
ance of richly hued flowers. 
Tree lYies — Amateur asks what these are and how 
they can be obtained. 
When Ivy that is growing against a wall reaches 
the top and has ro support for its topmost shoots 
the latter put on a bush like form. These shoots if 
taken off will root pretty easily, and make very pretty 
dwarf pot plants. Cuttings will root at any time, 
but the autumn is a good time to insert them. 
Richardias .—Amateur . The Richardias may be 
potted up as soon as you like. Each of the suckers 
at the base will make a plant, but whether they will 
flower next year or not will depend entirely upon 
their strength. All the stronger suckers, at any rate, 
will flower well. Use a compost of two thirds of 
good loam, and one of old horse droppings, or leaf 
soil, with sand. Pot fairly firmly. Do not water the 
plants immediately after potting. The moisture con¬ 
tained in the soil will be sufficient for the time being. 
Ericas.—The plants may be put out of doors if the 
young growth is pretty well advanced, Tengart, but 
as a rule the end of July is sufficiently early to put 
the plants out. In all cases they should be plunged 
in ashes so as to check excessive evaporation of water 
from the soil, as this would be very injurious to the 
delicate roots. Epacrises may be given the same 
kind of treatment, but they will stand out-of-dcors 
without the plunging better than the Ericas. 
Cutting Asparagus.—Please say how late in the 
season it is safe to cut Asparagus. My bed is still 
producing young heads, although many of those that 
have been mhsed are in full spread now .—Charles T. 
Pestridge . 
The end of June in the south of England is quite 
late enough to cut Asparagus, that is if it is expected 
that the beds should last for any length of time in 
bearing. Accordingly after that date the youDg 
growths should be allowed to develop as they please. 
A dressing of salt will do good. Give enough of it to 
whiten the ground nicely and apply it if possible 
before rain. 
Turnips — F. R : A border facing east is a good 
place for summer Turnips. The roots do not get so 
bitter as they do when exposed to the blaze of the 
sun. Even then they will not last long in good con¬ 
dition, but will soon commence to get unpleasantly 
strong in flavour. 
