R.B.BUCHANAN SEEDCQ 9^ MEMPHIS-TENNESSEE. 
Leaf Curl of Peach 
Appearance of Peach Leaf Curl 
Enlarged San Jose Scale 
A Sucking Insect 
Young Peach, Showing Curculio in 
Position, also Numerous Egg-Laying 
Punctures. 
Controlling Codling Moth, Scab and 
Blotch on Apples 
1. —PINK BUD SPRAY—As the individual buds in a cluster be¬ 
gin to separate use concentrated lime sulphur solution diluted 
5 quarts to 50 gallons water, or 4 pounds sulforon to 50 gallons 
water, or 4 pounds Koppers Flotation Sulphur (full directions on 
package) to 50 gallons water. Use Yz pound Ortho Dry Spreader 
to each 50 gallons of all summer sprays. To either of the above 
add lYz pounds arsenate of lead. 
2. —PETAL FALL OR CALYX SPRAY—Begin when petals are 
three-fourths off and finish before the calyx closes. Use same 
materials as written for First Spray. 
In applying cover sprays it is equally important to cover both 
fruit and foliage. 
3. —FIRST COVER SPRAY—Begin 10 days following last spray 
and finish by 2Yz weeks after petals fall. Mix 8 pounds Bordeaux 
Mixture in 50 gallons water, according to directions on package, 
add to this 1% pounds arsenate of lead. If you wish to make 
your Bordeaux by using bluestone and lime, see page 72 for full 
directions. On tender apples like Golden Delicious use Koppers 
Flotation Sulphur (full directions on package), 2 V 2 pounds to 
50 gallons water plus Arsenate of Lead lYz pounds. 
4. —SECOND COVER SPRAY—Begin two weeks after First 
Cover Spray, finish five weeks after petals fall, using the same 
materials as in First Cover Spray. 
5. —THIRD COVER SPRAY—Should begin two weeks after last 
spray, using same materials as before. 
6. —LATE COVER SPRAY—Begin three weeks after last spray 
and repeat every three weeks as needed until two weeks before 
harvest, using the same materials as previous spray except 
DO NOT USE ARSENATE OF LEAD in case the fruit will 
ripen within three weeks, unless prepared to remove by washing. 
The above spray program is equally as good for pear and quince. 
SPRAYING GRAPES for INSECTS and DISEASES 
GRAPE LEAF TYER—Is a greenish-white caterpillar, marked 
with a dark green stripe, that folds the leaves together and 
lives between the folded leaves. 
FLEA BEETLE—Is a small black jumping insect that eats holes 
in the leaves of the plants. 
LEAF HOPPER—Is a small pale yellowish-green hopping in¬ 
sect that attacks the grape on the underside of the leaves. This 
insect causes the leaves to yellow, then brown, and eventually die. 
BLACK ROT—The disease affects all the green parts of the vine. 
The name black rot applies to the condition of the affected 
grapes. As the grapes ripen this brown rot spot becomes sunken 
and soon the fruit turns black and shrinks. The leaves may 
become infected also by reddish brown circular spots. 
DOWNY MILDEW—A fungus disease of grapes, destructive to 
berries and all young or green portions of the vines. First sign 
on the fruit is a hardening of the berries, with a change from 
their normal color to a grayish blue-lead appearance. 
No. 1—Just before blooming, mix 8 pounds of Bordeaux Mixture 
in 50 gallons of water according to directions on package, add to 
this IV 2 pounds arsenate of lead. Use V 2 pound Ortho Dry 
Spreader to each 50 gallons of all summer sprays. You can make 
your own Bordeaux Mixture with bluestone and lime. See 
page 72. This spray is to control Black Rot, Downy Mildew, 
Flea Beetle and Anthracnose. 
No. 2-FIRST COVER SPRAY FOR MILDEW, BLACK ROT 
AND BERRY MOTH—Immediately after blooming use same 
spray as used in No. 1 spray. 
No. 3—Two weeks after No. 2 spray use same spray for the 
same controls. 
No. 4—THIRD COVER SPRAY—Two weeks after previous spray 
use same materials, except DO NOT USE ARSENATE OF 
LEAD, unless prepared to remove by washing. 
Controlling Pests of Peach, Plum, Cherry 
and Apricot 
PEACH LEAF CURL (a fungus disease)—Shows up in the spring 
shortly after the leaves unfold; they become thickened, puffed, 
folded and the diseased portions turn yellow with tints of red, 
and usually fall off. The spores of the disease winter over on 
the outside of the leaf buds, therefore the only way to control 
this disease is with the dormant spray. 
PEACH SCAB (a fungus disease)—Makes the fruit spotted with 
small olive-colored dots, giving the fruit a freckled appearance. 
BROWN ROT (a fungus disease)—Shows up when the fruit is 
about half grown as a small circular dark brown decayed area. 
As the rot grows the center becomes dotted with grayish mold. 
This disease is found on Peaches, Plums, Cherries, and Apricots. 
CURCULIO (a chewing insect)—The adult Curculio is a grayish 
black humped-back snout beetle about one-quarter inch long. 
It attacks the fruit by making a crescent-shape cut in the skins 
of the fruit in which the egg is laid. From this egg hatches a 
small white worm which feeds on the inside of the fruit. 
DORMANT SPRAY—FOR SCALE INSECTS AND PEACH 
LEAF CURL—After leaves drop in the fall and before buds 
swell in the spring, when temperature is above 40 degrees, 
spray with one of the following mixtures: In each 48 gallons of 
water dissolve 8 pounds of prepared Bordeaux Mixture. Then 
add 2 gallons Buchanan’s Oil Emulsion. In ease you wish to 
make your own Bordeaux with bluestone and lime, see page 72 
for full directions. Or use 6 gallons lime sulphur solution to 44 
gallons water; or 15 pounds dry lime sulphur to 50 gallons water. 
No. 1—BLOSSOM SPRAY—This, is the first spray for Curculio, 
Brown Rot and Scab, and should be applied when three-fourths 
of the blossoms have fallen and finish as quickly as possible; 
use Sulforon, 3 pounds in 50 gallons water, or Koppers Flotation 
Sulphur (full directions on package), 2 V 2 pounds to 50 gallons 
water. Koppers Flotation Sulphur has no equal as a fungicide 
on peaches. If Peach Bacterial Leaf Spot is present, use Zinc 
Sulphate in this and the next spray. 3 Yz pounds to 50 gallons 
of either of the above sprays. Use Yz pound Ortho Dry Spreader 
to each 50 gallons of all summer sprays. To either of the above 
sprays add 1 pound arsenate of lead. 
No. 2—FIRST COVER SPRAY—Apply two weeks after No. 1 
spray for the same diseases and using the same spray. This 
should be the last spray for the early fruits. 
No. 3—SECOND COVER SPRAY—Apply two weeks after No. 2 
spray, using same materials as No. 1 spray. 
No. 4—THIRD COVER SPRAY—Apply three to four weeks be¬ 
fore fruit is due to ripen, using same materials as No. 1, except 
do not use arsenate of lead. 
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