BARR di SONS, 11, 12 <& 13 King Street, Covent Garden, London. 3 
CULTURE OF BULBS IN POTS OR BOXES— continued. 
The pots or boxes should remain plunged for ten to twelve weeks (Roman 
Hyacinths rather less), in order that the bulbs may get well rooted, after which some may be 
removed indoors for succession, selecting first those which naturally bloom early. Place first in a cold 
frame, cool greenhouse or sitting-room free from draughts or gas heat and keep partially shaded for a 
few days, giving water as required. Weak liquid manure-water (1 oz. of Phytobroma to a gallon of 
water) may then be given once a week until they come into flower. Those that are wanted in bloom 
early should be placed in a warmer temperature, after the flower buds are advanced, such as a slow 
forcing-house, but this should never exceed 65° if fine blooms are desired. The plants should always 
be kept as near to the glass as possible and not allowed to get drawn, from insufficient light or air. On 
no account should bottom heat be given. A frequent mistake made in forcing bulbs is that they are 
removed from the plunging-bed and subjected to heat too early, before they have made sufficient 
fibrous roots, and failure is the result. When bulbs are removed from the plunging-bed, place an inverted 
flower-pot over them for a day or two to prevent any check from draughts to the young top growths. 
Pot=Culture of Early Gladioli, Ixias, Sparaxis, Tritonias, etc. 
These bulbs start early into growth and therefore should not be potted up before the end of October. 
The pots should be plunged up to the rim only (not covered) in a cold frame, and protected 
with mats during severe frosty weather. There they should remain for about three months, after which 
the treatment is similar to that for spring-flowering bulbs. 
Culture of Spring-flowering Bulbs in Vases and Bowls 
in Barr's Peat-Fibre, Shell and Charcoal Mixture. 
A charming effect can be obtained by growing spring-flowering bulbs in fancy vases and bowls, with 
or without drainage, by using our Peat-Fibre Mixture (5s. 6 d. per bushel, Is. 6d. per peck) ; the mixture is 
light, clean, and nice to handle, and remains sweet (an important matter where the vases used have no 
drainage holes ’); indeed, it is in every way preferable to soil for growing bulbs in bowls and vases. 
Culture. — Fill the vase or bowl with the Peat-Fibre 
Mixture up to within a little below the rim, and plant the 
bulbs in the same manner as with ordinary potting soil; the 
mixture should be shaken down into place after planting and 
lightly watered, but should not be pressed down tightly, or the 
bulbs will be forced upwards when root growth commences. 
It is advisable to tie down with old fish netting or similar 
material to keep them in position. 
After planting, adopt either of the following plans :— 
(а) The bowls may be placed outdoors and covered 
entirely with 2 or 3 inches of Peat-Fibre or Leaf soil, leaving 
them thus for 8 to 12 weeks (Roman and Prepared Hyacinths 
rather less), when the bulbs will have made good fibrous roots. 
(б) Or the bowls may be plunged in a cold frame, airy 
cellar, or out-house instead of outdoors; with this treatment, 
however, it will be necessary to occasionally give water. 
(c) A third plan is to place the bowls after planting in a 
dark or moderately dark airy room, cool but not too cold; 
they must not be placed in a close cupboard or the bulbs will 
certainly suffer ; treated thus it will, of course, be necessary to 
occasionally give water. 
In the case of bowls plunged outdoors there will be no 
need to give any attention in the way of watering, as they 
receive sufficient moisture from the autumn rains. Where, 
however, the bulbs are not exposed to rain, the bowls should 
be examined once or twice a week, care being taken that 
the fibre mixture is kept uniformly damp ; but for the first 
week or two after planting water should be given very spar¬ 
ingly, sufficient only to encourage root action. As soon as the bulbs are well rooted, water should 
be given more freely, the fibre mixture being then kept quite moist; if the mixture is allowed at any 
time to become dry, even for a day or two, the flower buds may go blind ; should by any chance too 
much water have been given, the bowls may be drained by carefully tipping them on their side. 
If obtainable, rain water is the best to use. 
When the bulbs have made some top growth the bowls should be placed in a sunny window 
where they will get the morning sun, or be kept in a cool greenhouse close to the glass, as they must 
have sufficient light and air to prevent the foliage from becoming drawn. For a few days the bowls 
should be covered with tissue paper until the young growth has become accustomed to the light. 
Draughts and gas heat must be carefully avoided. No bottom heat should be given. A temperature 
of 55° to 60° by day and 50° to 55° by night is sufficient to obtain good blooms ; the bulbs resent too 
warm a temperature. 
When growth is fairly advanced water occasionally with weak liquid manure (a tablespoonful of 
our Phytobroma to a gallon of water kept well stirred is quite suitable). 
For Collections of Bulbs for Bowl Culture, see page 6 of this Catalogue 
and page 3 of our Daffodil Catalogue. 
NARCISSUS POETAZ CHEERFULNESS 
growing in Burr's Peat-Fibre Mixture. 
