SUCCESSFUL GARDENING 
(Continued from page 2) 
Preparation Many growers seem to think that good gardening 
consists in killing weeds and bugs, but the best 
gardening is in not having them. The good gar¬ 
dener tills better and manages his land in such a manner as to prevent, rather 
than eradicate weeds. Disc the land thoroughly as early in the spring as it 
can be worked after which the entire surface should be made fine and level 
with a smoothing harrow. In the Rocky Ford district, the land is leveled by 
means of a long narrow float. These are constructed from planks. The two 
side members are long, usually 12 to 18 feet, turned on edge much like sled 
runners. Three cross members are attached even with the bottom of the run¬ 
ners and are placed at a slight angle except the center one which is vertical. 
These floats thoroughly pulverize the small clods in addition to picking up the 
soil on the high places and depositing on the low places. The oftener the 
ground is worked over before sowing or planting the cleaner and better it 
will be. 
Commercial Fertilizer There is no infallible rule for determining what fer¬ 
tilizer to apply. The grower must study his condi¬ 
tion and judge for himself. A little experimenting 
will help or advice may be given by the State College of Agriculture or local 
farm bureau agent. Usually a fertilizer containing 4% nitrate, 12% phosphate 
and 6% potash is satisfactory. Apply this at the rate of about 4 pounds to the 
square rod. When fertilizers are relied upon, some form of humus should be 
supplied. This can be done by turning under green crops or applying rotted 
leaves, peat moss, manure, etc. 
Planting Planting time is where the gardener arrives at the 
a cross roads and considerable judgment must be ex¬ 
ercised in selecting the seed to be planted and the 
methods of planting. The soil should always be moist, not too wet and not 
too dry. Use a good drill seeing that the amount of seed dropped and depth 
of planting is correctly gaged, also that the presser wheel properly firms the 
soil over the seed row. Always plant in good straight rows. Appearance is 
not only better but cultivating is easier. If hand planted, make certain that 
the soil is firm around the seed row by tamping down slightly with a garden 
rake, hoe or with the flat side of a board. Use as long rows as possible and 
space wide enough apart to admit the free use of a wheel hoe or cultivator. 
Pay particular attention to depth of planting. Seeds often fail to come up from 
being covered too shallow or too deep. Early in the spring when the soil is 
moist, seeds should not be covered as deep as later in the season when the 
ground becomes dry. As a rule, the smaller the seed, the shallower the depth 
of planting and this applies to small flower seeds as well as vegetables. If 
not familiar with the soil temperature required for germination of each kind 
of seed, study our cultural directions or ask some experienced gardener in 
your neighborhood. Some seeds like parsnip cannot be made to grow well 
after the ground becomes too warm. On the other hand, watermelon seed if 
planted in cold wet ground will rot. If rains occur after the seeds are sown 
and a crust forms, this should be carefully broken, otherwise the tender plants 
will not be able to get through to the surface. Some seeds are slow to germi¬ 
nate and these should be sown thickly in order that the plantlets may break 
the crust on the soil. It is a good plan to sow a few quick germinating seeds 
such as radish, cabbage or turnip with slow germinating celery, parsnip, carrot 
and the like. This will mark the row for early cultivation and help break 
the soil crust. 
Cutivation As soon as plants in the row can be seen, begin 
cultivating very shallow and close as possible with¬ 
out damaging the plants. Away from the plants, 
deeper cultivation should be practiced, gradually lessening this as the plants 
grow to avoid root injury. Cultivate and hoe often enough so that you are 
cultivating the soil instead of ploughing out weeds. If under irrigation, water 
often enough to keep the soil in good moist condition; do not oversoak. Cul¬ 
tivate at least once between each irrigation until the crop is laid by. 
Starting Plants 
Indoors and in 
Hotbeds 
have a leaflet on making 
one free. 
Tomato, pepper, egg plant, celery and many of the 
flowers may be started to an advantage in this man¬ 
ner. Turn to page 73 and in our article "How to 
Grow Tomatoes" you will find some information as 
to starting plants indoors and in hotbeds. We also 
and managing hotbeds. We shall be glad to send you 
Combatting Insects 
and Worms 
Each year after harvest, clean up all refuse left 
by the crop. Burn all weeds and rubbish, if any, in 
the fence rows and corners. Fall plough as this 
will help destroy eggs or insects harbored in the 
soil. These are preventive measures. When insects appear, start controlling at 
once. On our own crops, we use dust insecticides. We list aphicide and 
dusters on pages 18 and 19. You will find instructions as to dusting on pages 
17 and 19. 
(Continued on page 82) 
See Page 82 for Special Prices to Market Growers 
81 
