bulb glasses, the glass should be filled with water until the lower part of the bulb is just covered. Too much 
water often decays the bulb before the roots have had time to start. Bulbs grown in pots produce, as a rule, 
more perfect flowers. 
Tulips may be grown in shallow boxes or pots of earth. The Due Van Thol Tulips and many of the early 
varieties are suitable for house culture. A variety of bulbs planted together produce a rich display of bloom. 
This may be done in large pots or in narrow boxes filled with earth with a little drainage in the bottom. Any 
one can procure such a box and by displaying a little taste make it very ornamental. The low prices at which 
the best bulbs are now offered brings such a window garden within the reach of almost every one. In plant¬ 
ing window boxes care should be exercised to place the bulbs in such order that the taller ones will not over 
shadow the lower. 
TREATMENT OF SOFT-WOODED PLANTS. 
All plants having soft, porous stems and leaves, like the Gloxinia, Primula, Begonia ltex, Coleus, etc., should 
be watered with care. The leaves of such plants when wet, absorb water freely and are liable to decay, (or to 
use the gardner’s term, “Damp off”) if kept damp for any length of time. Bulbous roots which form leaflets 
and flower stems directly from the crown ot the bulb, like the Cyclamen and others, should be planted with the 
tops of the bulbs above the earth to prevent moisture damping the tender shoots. Soft-wooded plants grow 
very freely when properly managed, and by observing the above rules any one can grow them to their satisfac¬ 
tion. 
CLASSIFICATION OF PLANTS. 
The plants generally known as Annuals are raised from seed, perfect their flowers and mature their seeds 
the same season they are planted and then perish. There are some flowers however cultivated as annuals that 
are such only in a northern climate, being in their own more congenial region Perennials or Biennials, among 
them are the Verbena, Eschscholtzia and many others. Annuals may be divided as follows : Hardy, half- 
hardy and tender. 
Hardy annuals are those which may be sown in the fall or early spring, and require no artificial heat to 
bring them forward during any period of their development. They are the most easily grown of all plants. 
The Aster, Larkspur, Candytuft, etc., are examples of this class. 
Half hardy are those which will not stand much of a frost, and should not be planted until after the 
spring frosts are over. The Balsam, Cockscomb, Thunbergia are examples. It is advisable to start many of 
the half hardy annuals in hot beds or boxes of earth in the house and transplant to the open ground about the 
first of June in this vicinity. 
Tender Annuals can hardly be brought to perfection unless started under glass, and are very sensitive 
to cold. 
Biennials are those plants which flower the second or third year from the time the seeds are sown, and 
then perish. 
Perennials like the annuals are divided into classes -Hardy, half-hardy and tender. Hardy perennials 
will stand the coldest winter without any protection; half-hardy require to be well protected; and tender peren¬ 
nials must be kept through the winter in a greenhouse. 
Perennials are ot two kinds, bulbous and Herbaceous, which, differing materially from each other in 
habits, require a different kind of treatment. I will here make a few remarks on the cultivation of each :— 
Bulbous Perennials are either hardy or such as will grow in the open ground; half-hardy, such as will 
not live out over winter, or tender, which require greenhouse heat. 
Hardy bulbs, with tew exceptions, jire remarkably easy of cultivation, and if planted in good soil seldom fail 
to produce plenty of offsets and seeds for propagation. They flourish best in a light, rich loam, rather sandy, 
not too light, however, less they be injured during the heat of summer, and if clayey they invariably grow 
weakly and seldom flower. Encourage a»much as possible the growth of leaves, by giving them free expos¬ 
ure to light and air, for on the full developing of those depends the flowering of the next year. If the leaves 
grow strong a good quality of nutriment is stored up in the bulbs and perfect bloom is the result. Never, if it 
can be avoided, disturb bulbs during their growth; but if obliged to do so, select a wet day, and remove them 
with good balls of earth so as not to injure the fibrous roots. The season of rest for most bulbs is just after 
flowering, as they are then in their dormant state. The offsets may be separated and planted where the 
cultivator wishes. With the exception of Hyacinths, Tulips Narcisses and some others, most hardy bulbs are 
injured if kept out of the earth long. It is best to plant offsets of bulbs of every description immediately. 
Herbaceous Perennials:—The mode of cultivating this class of plants is perfectly easy. There are 
five methods of propagation practiced: by division, suckers, layers, seeds and cuttings. 
Dividing the Hoots: This may be done with a knife if the root is small or with a spade if the root is large and 
strong. This should be done when the tops are just starting out after having been cut down, for then the new 
roots are just starting out and the divided parts are supported. 
Suckers: These may be taken up at any time when they appear. 
Soeds: Sow in the spring and transplant in the fall to where they are to flower. 
Layers and Cuttings: lhrifty succulent shoots, if partly cut through and pegged down and covered with earth 
will take root. 
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