88 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
October 7, 1899- 
fflETS FOR ||mATEURS. 
Rockeries and Walls for Plants. — This is the busy 
planting season for lovers of evergreens, fruit trees, 
or hardy plants. The brightness of summer has now 
left us. The evenings and the mornings are cool; 
the latter open with everything bathed in a dew ; 
while the evenings may be either damp or frosty. 
The glory of summer has departed, and we cannot 
think of it without regret, for summer is synonymous 
with brightness, health, and gladness. The autumn 
brings the representation of death, or decay at least; 
and yet we are under a promise that so long as life 
lasts, " winter and summer, day and night, cold and 
heat, shall not cease.” Therefore, while the earth is 
warm from the heat of summer, we busy ourselves in 
planting stock to gladden us in the new summer, 
which we by and bye expect. Rock-plants soon lay 
hold of their quarters if they are put in at this time. 
The earth above may be cool, cold even, but it main¬ 
tains an evenness or medium temperature beneath, 
for seme period longer ; and it is during this time 
that we should make good use of all favourable 
weather. 
There are many places where one could wish to 
have tone sort of rock-work or rugged wall suitable 
for planting with trailing, or dwarf subjects. Miss 
Jekyll, in her book, “ Wood and Garden,” describes 
the making of one of loose retaining walls which act 
in the double or triple capacity of a shelter screen, a 
dividing line, and a garden ornamental feature On 
abrupt slopes, a retaining wall, though not absolutely 
necessary, can yet be introduced with all propriety. 
For alpine plants the best position for such loose 
walls or very steep rockeries, is probably that of a 
north or east aspect. Such a position, however, need 
not be anxiously contrived for all the same, for 
alpine plants enjoy a light, as well as a cool position. 
In the making of a wall for alpine plants the same 
rules apply to its construction as for a proper 
rockery. There must be pockets and enough of soil 
between the stones to sustain plants with long roots 
and great suctional capacity, and it must be secure. 
The earth should be solidly trodden and rammed be¬ 
hind the stones of each course and throughout the 
whole structure. Any local stone material will 
answer the purpose, for it is intended that the stones 
will in a short while be completely hidden. Allow¬ 
ing a breadth of 4 ft. or 5 ft. for the base of the wall, it 
may narrow to any limit of contraction, but the 
general surface of the wall should be only at such a 
slope as shall allow of the retention of moisture when 
rain falls. A point worth the watching is to make 
the pockets or chinks in such a way that they will 
hold rain, dew, and other means whereby moisture 
is secured. For this purpose it is often advisable 
to use rough stones The strongest growing plants, 
it may be shrubs, should be planted on the top of 
the wall, for then their roots will find a body of 
soil in which to penetrate and establish them¬ 
selves. Ferns may also be used for clothing the 
wall and such kinds as Hartstongue, Polypodiums, 
Aspleniums and others would do very well, remain¬ 
ing in a green state, at least some of them, 
throughout the winter. Berberis, Scotch Briers, 
Junipers, Privets, Mahonias, and Olearias would 
form a varied selection for decking the rougher 
parts. Numerous Saxifragas, Sedums, Campanu¬ 
las, dwarf Phloxes, Primroses, Aubrietias, Rock 
and Sun Roses, Ramondia pyrenaica, and a host 
of dwarf plants could be used for close growing 
and groundwork purposes. The Globe-flowers, 
Orobus vernus, Ononis rotundifolia. Bergamot, 
Lychnises, and a large selection of annuals would 
be suitable where slightly taller plants are desired. 
Rockeries should be overhauled at this time, and 
the new plants which may be ordered should be 
planted for the sake of giving them a start in the 
warm soil. It means a great deal to a plant if it can 
establish itself before very cold weather sets in. 
Frost loosens the soil and raises the plants up, but 
this evil is overcome if one simply starts the work 
early, instead cf delaying it until a later period. 
Dahlias.—At the first sharp frost, these plants 
will be blackened and fall limp. We hope for many 
reasons that the season oi frosts, and snow, and 
bitter cold winds which seem to cringe us to half 
our normal size, will keep away for a time yet. 
However, a note on the storing of the roots, or 
tubers rather, may as well be given now as at another 
time. In the first place try to have the tubers as 
large and strong as possible by nourishing them 
well now, and during the time they are growing. 
When the blooming strength of the plants begins to 
wane this may be taken as the time to stop feeding 
in any way. If frost nips down the plants, the stems 
should be cut across about two feet from the base. 
Loosen the tubers carefully from the outside reach of 
where they may be expected to extend to, using a 
fork for this work. Clean the soil from off them 
and take them to a cool but thoroughly dry shed cr 
loft. Hang them up in bunches by the stems, and 
label them, either the name and the colour of the 
flowers so as to be sure of how to arrange the plants 
effectively when planting them afresh next year. 
Carnations.—Young plants of these from layers 
this year should be carefully watched. Do not be 
in any great hurry to have them shifted from the 
layer bed, for nothing will throw the plants into a 
bad way or give them a check as injured roots or 
disturbance when only a portion of roots has been 
formed. The best place for plants which really are 
rooted and which have started to grow briskly, is 
a sunny border and a soil which is dry and porous. 
Into beds they can be put, and the same rule 
of early planting, and for the same reasons as already 
stated, holds good here. 
The ground may in some cases have to be specially 
prepared. No one should hesitate to do this, how¬ 
ever, for surely Carnations are worth all the care we 
can bestow on their culture. Add manure of a kind 
suitable to the soil, light warm stable manure of a 
dry nature on land which is heavy ; then for warm, 
dry, light borders, farmyard manure which has 
become thoroughly decomposed is the best quality of 
stuff to employ. 
Grevillea robusta.—The seeds of this very hand¬ 
some greenhouse shrub take a long time to germinate, 
so long indeed, that unless the pots or pans are care¬ 
fully crocked and the operation of watering is gone 
about in a thoughtful manner, the soil will almost 
certainly become sour. In its native country (New 
South Wale. 1 ) it is commonly known as the Australian 
Oak, because there it attains to noble proportions. 
As a greenhouse plant or for use as a decorator in 
one or two capacities, it is equal to Aralia Sieboldii 
and Ficus elastica, both of which are indispensable. 
Make a sowing now, or indeed, anywhere for that 
matter, but an autu mn sowing gives us nice plants 
for next year. Four-inch pots are usually employed, 
and these should be filled with rather a firm soil. 
The pans should be three parts filled with a good 
compost and then raised another eighth-part with 
finer soil, whence the seeds should be sown and a 
light dressing scattered over them. The seedlings 
never appear regularly, so that those which come up 
first ought to be potted first and singly into the 
smallest sized pots. A suitable compost for this 
first potting is one with 2J parts of friable loam, one 
of leaf mould and a liberal addition of sand. Water 
then after this first potting and place them for some 
time in a close moist pit or frame with a temperature 
of about 65°. Once they are established in the 
thumb pots it is well not to let them suffer, but to 
keep potting od. The coolest house possible will 
answer them after they have attained a height of 4 
inches. A strong point to watch is to see that they 
get plenty of water, not saturation, but in quantity 
enough to save the leaves from dropping off, for 
this happens after a severe drying up. 
Floral Decorations.—Amateurs do net generally 
stand in need of many hints on this subject, for as a 
rule their wealth of cut blooms is not great. Yet the 
subject is worth considering. All of us have an oc¬ 
casional party, and we like to be able to economise 
the flowers at command, and at the same time to 
make a good show. As a rule flowers are costly to 
buy, and when bought they do not always class to¬ 
gether well. It should be the aim of the mistress of 
the house, for she it is who has this work under her 
consideration, either when buying, or when culling 
flowers in the garden,to choose those with forms and 
colours which will arrange best together. A great 
deal, of course, depends on what the flowers are to 
be used for, or how. We may have bouquets, 
wreaths, vases, dishes of flowers in drawing-rooms, 
hanging-baskets, epsrgnes, and various other ap¬ 
pliances, some of them comparatively new and very 
useful for their purpose. Colours that go well to¬ 
gether are, rose with a little blue ; white with mauve 
or lilac, and sometimes with shades of pale yellow, 
or primrose ; dark blue and bright scarlet, bright 
deep yellow and pale blue; and blue with a shade of 
white and rose, which are always distinct and charm¬ 
ing. With these colours however, it is best not to use 
large or heavy masses. Geranium and Rose-budSj 
sprays of Heath and Lilacs answer much better than 
full-blown Camellias, Roses, and Carnations. In 
arranging vases the object should be to have a 
complement of gracefulness. For this end one 
requires erect grassy shoots arching over when they 
reach a dignified height, and Ferns of various kinds 
both for greenery and choice of form. Draping 
shoots of Smilax or other suitable trailer, or climber, 
may be used in different ways. Dishes of flowers 
can be effectively arranged when one has a choice 
both of large and small flowers and suitable foliage. 
Moss or sand can be used to imbed the stalks and to 
steady the same. For personal decorations many 
things have to be considered, such as colour and 
fixture of the hair, the complexion, the wearing ap¬ 
parel and the size and sex of the persons.— Beacon. 
Correspondence. 
Questions asked by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening will be answered on this page. 
A nyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
" Amateurs' Page " on the top of their letters. 
Roses Straggling.— Elphin: You will hardly find the 
Rose shoots to snap. They are supple enough to 
bend and lash and twist with the wind without 
breaking. We would wait a week or two longer ; then 
for safety from snow, storm, &c., we advise you to 
reduce the longest shoots by a third. In November 
mulch all around them with sappy stable and cow 
shed manure. 
Climbers for Dead Shrubs. — J.M. Berry : Wood¬ 
bine (Convolvulus); Clematis Jackmani, and other 
sorts, more especially C. Vitalba, called Old Man’s 
Beard or Traveller’s Joy ; Tropaeolum speciosum or 
Flame Flower; Honeysuckles of sorts; climbing 
Roses as Crimson Rambler, and others of the 
pol}antha section; Ivies, Ampelopsis, and other 
things. 
*■ Fences ”— J. Drew, Maidenhead : Neat and light 
made iron or metal fencing would be preferable for a 
barrier. For this purpose you will find the most 
effective kind of fence to be that in which the rails 
are about 4 in. apart, strong and straight, rising to 
about 7 ft. at the least. There should also be no cross¬ 
bar for a considerable distance from the bottom. 
For training espalier trees to you will find a wire 
trellis sufficient. 
Striking Yiolas. — Novice : The general plan for 
all beddiDg plants which are propagated annually is 
this: Secure stout firm shoots of whatever plant 
you wish to increase or perpetuate. For Pelar¬ 
goniums, strip off three or four leaves at the base, 
and make a clean even cut just beneath ajoint. For 
Violas, Calceolarias, and plants of a dwarf and soft- 
wooded nature, ihe same advice applies ; take off or 
rather make the stem clear for 1 in., at least, from 
the base upwards. The cutting is then ready. All 
cuttings like sandy soil for rooting in. Then prepare 
a bed of light soil in a frame. Take a smooth 
narrow “ pointer ” or dibbler, and make a hole in the 
firm soil for the insertion of the cuttings. Violas are 
deep enough if placed 1 in. down. Make them firm 
either with the dibbler or with four fingers, allowing 
about 3 in. or 4 in. between each. Water, shade, 
and keep the frames close for a few days when they 
will have plucked up again. 
Asparagus : How to Cultivate — J. S. Stirling : 
Secure good crowns, and put them not deeply in a 
rich light compost consisting of two parts sandy 
loam, one part vegetable or leaf mould, and a quan¬ 
tity of dry sheep dung if you can procure it. Add a 
dash of coarse sand. Grow the plants in a warm 
light greenhouse. Be careful not to give them too 
much water, and do not syringe the fronds. Train 
the shoots to wire or cords. 
Red Hot Pokers. — S. Finny, Deal : There must 
hive been some hurtful cause else the Tritomas or 
Kniphofias would never have died off. We have 
always found them to do well in any good garden 
border. In the northern parts growers have to 
cover the crowns with a layer of leaf mould. This 
