232 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
December 9, 1899. 
Hints for 
Umateurs. 
Tulips, Hyacinths, and Crocuses which have not 
yet been planted are beginning to become somewhat 
soft, if not, indeed, really sending forth shoots. 
Such bulbs cannot be expected to return such fine 
flower spikes as those which were planted a month 
ago, and whose roots have since then been forming. 
A bulb has a quantity of starchy and albuminous 
matter stored in its thick leaves (or bulb-scales as 
you may care to term them), and this starchy matter 
has to be surrendered for the up-building of the new 
foliage and flowers. Therefore, it is not wise to de¬ 
lay the planting beyond this time. It may be well 
to point out that bulbs can still be bought for 
immediate planting, the prices being much reduced. 
Begonias, Dahlias, Gladioli, and Gloxinias in 
store should be looked over once in every fortnight. 
When a tuber, corm or bulb begins to decay, and is 
in contact with others, those others are in peril of 
becoming smitten, the infection if not at once 
remedied by removing the decaying members, will 
eventually run through the stock. The same thing 
holds good with Apples and Pears in store ; unless 
ihe bad ones are taken out of reach of the others ths 
natural consequences follow, and they, too, become 
worthless, and are lost. By this time, hower, all the 
Begonias and Gladioli will have become properly 
ripened. Whenever the chance admits some of the 
larger and finer tubers and corms may be selected 
and placed in boxes to be ready for starting in 
January. From this early batch fine flowering plants 
are developed by the month of May. 
Cannas.—Various growers have shown that these 
can be had in perfect condition during every month 
of the year. At once, however, I would condemn 
the practice of trying to grow either these or any¬ 
thing else to be in bloom all the year through—by 
successive batches I mean. The hint of the R.H S. 
Floral Committee some years ago to an enthusiastic 
Chrysanthemist — at least I personally, know he was 
at that time—who exhibited a splendid collection of 
Chrysanthemum blooms in midsummer, was to the 
effect that “ They were very nice, but they (the 
committee) didn’t quite wish Chrysanthemums in 
bloom all the year round.” But in reference to the 
Cannas, what I want to say is that they come in very 
nicely with the Begonias during May, and they have 
the advantage over the equally brilliant Azaleas and 
Rhododendrons, that their spikes can be cut for 
decorative purposes, and by care one can stiil rely on 
having fresh spikes from the same tubers during the 
following season. We cannot cut the shoots of 
Azaleas or Rhododendrons at random. 
Chrysanthemums — The very sevicetble and 
loveliest of all decorative Chrysanthemums—the 
singles — are just at this time in the pink of perfec¬ 
tion. Numerous lists have been given in one or 
other of the descriptive articles in The Gardening 
World on the various nurseries which its repre¬ 
sentatives have visited, so that names need not be 
repeated here. The singles and the market varieties, 
the latter so called because that market men like them 
and grow them because of their distinct colours and 
lasting qualities, are far more to be recommended 
than are the large flowering varieties of the 
Japanese section. 
Difficulties frequently arise in the striking of cuttings, 
even after all that can be given in the way of written 
hints. I had experience of this only a day or two 
ago. A friend of mine who went to the expense of 
erecting a greenhouse specially to grow Chrysanth¬ 
emums in, and after having bought cuttings of a 
couple of dozen varieties, was chagrined to find that 
only one became a rooted plant. He had abundance 
of hints in his gardening paper. Yet there he was. 
I hope he may be successful with his “ pets ” this year. 
One point in which the amateur errs oftener than with 
others is in making his cuttings too long. Some 
amount of judgment should be exercised in this de¬ 
cision. As a rule, short and moderately firm cut¬ 
tings succeed best. Cuttings do not require 
much water until they have begun to root, which 
under favourable conditions will be from twenty-one 
to twenty-five days. 
Cinerarias.—At this time these are just coming 
into bloom. Those which are expanding may still 
be treated to a very little weak manure. Quick 
acting artificial manures, such as Clay’s or Canary 
Guano, are much to be preferred to natural manurial 
liquid. It will generally be found that plants which 
have been grown firmly, not stunted, but stout and 
hard, with strong, dark foliage, these throw up, if 
not the largest, at least the best formed, and prettiest 
flower heads. Small pols, then, are safer and 
better than large ones. Cinerarias are in some gar¬ 
dens successfully grown by being planted out during 
the summer, just as Chrysanthemums, Callas, &c., 
are planted, and lifted at the end of September for 
pottiDg up. Not having tried this practice myself, 
I can only give it as it was expressed to me by a 
reliable craftsman. 
Arum Lilies.—All who love and grow plants, 
like to have a few pot Arums. The foliage is the 
only part of their beauty which we have at present 
to enjoy, but this of itself is beautiful. If the plants 
are in dwelling-rooms, keep the leaves clean and free 
from dust. Not only does this aid their appearance, 
it also is necessary toward their well-being. Here 
again, small pots with rich soil, firmly pressed, are 
more advisable than very large pots. 
Potting.—The instances already noted, re that 
of small pots for the Cinerarias and for theAtum 
Lilies, directs the attention to the necessity for 
giving a few special^hints to the subject. Not yet a 
while will the annual re-potting, potting-on, or top¬ 
dressing of the permanent greenhouse or stove plants 
be done, but there is always a little potting under 
way, and it seems well to say, that in all cases, 
without exception, it is far safer and better to adopt 
the small shift system. Amateurs are placed doubly 
at a disadvantage as compared with professional 
gardeners, because while the latter have many more 
conveniences and have the skill which the amateur, 
whose garden-work is only as a recreation, does not 
possess, they also have their whole time and 
attention to give to cultural details. If a gardener 
gives a plant, or a batch of plants, too large a shift, 
his skilful after-treatment in providing a pleasant 
and propt r temperature and in the watering—upon 
which so very much of all cultural success 
depeods—generally saves the stock from anything 
more serious than a short check, and slower progress 
of growth. Then shift step by step, potting 
moderately firm to start with, and when the plants 
are of a size to require, say, 6-inch pots, space 
should more or less always be left at the top for 
later top dressings. 
Primula floribunda—Those who have not seen 
nice plants of this sweet little Primrose can form no 
just conception as to its beauty or value. It is one 
of the freest and most persistent of flowering plants 
that I am acquainted with. Everyone should 
endeavour to see it. A sowing at this time is hardly 
natural or reasonable. Delay the act, then, until 
signs of longer days begin to be apparent. Shallow 
pans, filled with a friable compost, and the seeds 
merely sprinkled over the firm surface, then slightly 
moistened by immersing the pan nearly to the rim in 
a tank of water, and afterwards placing a sheet of 
glass over the top of the paD, are the only items to 
occupy the attention. A warm propagating case 
will be the most suitable place in which to plunge 
the pans. 
Lobelia—The plants which were lifted from the 
flower-beds and potted at the beginning of last month 
are very liable to " damp off ” from various causes. 
The chiefest source of destruction is moisture around 
the collars, combined, at the same time, wdth a close 
and damp atmosphere. A dry, but, of course, not 
too cold atmosphere, is the surest antidote to any 
deleterious cause. All " damping off” is affected by 
the growth of a fungus, microscopic in its dimen¬ 
sions, and minute in its unitary actions, and the first 
named conditions are just those in which this fungus 
delights; but of this we may say more at a later 
date. 
Strawberries for forcing may be put into frames 
with a packing of leaves or cinders between the pots. 
I read recently of a gardener, who, being scrimped 
for space, built his pots with Strawberry plants in 
them in tiers by laying them on their sides in rows, 
leaving 2 in. space between each row. Other rows 
of pots were then stacked on the top of those first 
laid down, and so or row after row till they mounted 
high and became narrow at the top. Sifted coal 
ashes, of course, were all along banked in, over, and 
about the pots and the plants. The system has been 
quite successfully adopted by others besides him of 
whom I speak and with satisfactory results.— 
Beacon. 
Correspondence. 
Questions asked by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening will be answered on this page. 
Anyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
"Amateurs' Page " on the top of their letters. 
Hardy Ferns. — " West of Scotland ” : Hardy 
Ferns are best when divided iQ early April. Cut the 
edges of the split sections cleanly, and plant in a 
moist, humic soil in a well drained sheltered station. 
Tomatos — Epicure : We would not advise you to 
make a sowing until the month of February at the 
earliest. 
Rhododendrons — Aborist, Wales: Notch the lower¬ 
most shoots or branches of your plants and peg them 
down. First of all bend the shoot to the ground, 
when you will see the most suitable part at which to 
make the incision, which must be kept open. Place 
some light soil around the notched part after 
pegging. 
Chrysanthemums as Bush ^Plants. — J. S : We 
shall endeavour to furnish a (ew necessary hints in 
one complete article. Thanks for your suggestion. 
Storage Cellar.— J. Ingram : Any cool, dark and 
dry shed will do quite as well as the cellar you have 
described. The cause of your Beet having become 
flabby more than likely is the result of incautious lift¬ 
ing. Bruised Beet is of little good, or Beet in any 
way “ bled,” is much impaired. 
Mixing paint and painting — J. Worrell, Gorgie: 
It is not the vapours from the paint, unless, perhaps, 
turpentine was a strong element, which harmed your 
neighbeur’s plants. The cold draughts ofairduring 
the renovations most likely were to blame. Any¬ 
one can paint a greenhouse, given the liquid. We 
have seen white and other coloured paints mixed, 
but do not assume to be experts in the ait. For 
white paint secure a quantity of soft white lead, a 
cask of sperm oil, and another of turpentine. To 
make sure about the quantities of each to use in mix¬ 
ing, consult a local painter. 
Dried Fish Manures .—Dealer : Thousands of tons 
of fish manure are annually manufactured in this 
country. The heads, offal, and bones of fishes, par¬ 
ticularly those from which Ccdliver oil is obtained, 
are ground to a fine powder, which by itself supplied 
nitrogen and phosphates. Kainit (potash), can be 
mixed in a certain proportion so as to add the other 
“ leg ” to the tripod — the golden tripod as it has 
been termed, seeing that nitrogen, potash and phos¬ 
phates are always necessary for plant life. Fish 
manure should be applied at the rate of three to five 
cwts. per acre, or from J to ij oz. per square yard, 
lightly forked into the soil in early spring or while 
the crops are still young. 
Schizanthus pinnatus.— 0 . Seward : Sow as ad¬ 
vised some time ago, and by steady treatment flower¬ 
ing plants will be yours in ten or twelve weeks’ time. 
Wood Ashes as a dressing —M. L. : Wood ashes 
as a dressing have much to recommend them. They 
supply potash to the soil, and have a mechanical 
effect on heavy soils in so far that they make them 
more workable. They also are in a small way 
deleterious to the progress of slug and insect pest 
development. As a dressing for lawns, with some 
lime and fine soil added they are to be recommen¬ 
ded. 
Cob Nuts. — Herts : The difference between Cob 
Nuts and Filberts is, that in the Cqb Nut the husk 
does not entirely cover the nut, whereas it envelopes 
it in the case of the Filbert. The bushes like a 
warm and rich soil, and should be planted at a 
distance of from 12 ft. to 14 ft. apart. The after 
treatment consists in forming a good open head and 
in keeping up a supply of sound fruiting shoots. Do 
not prune them until just after the flowering period, 
which is in March. 
Iris laevigata. — R. : The Japanese Iris, and also 
known as I. Kaempferi, is cultivated in Japan by the 
gardeners there as a marsh-loving or sub-aquatic 
plant. British husbandmen find it to flower more 
largely and in better iorm as a true aquatic. At 
