844 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
January 27, 1900. 
INTS FOR ffiMATEURS. 
Carnations — At this time Carnations have little 
need for any reference. Growth with them is com¬ 
paratively slow, so that until we are nearer their 
flowering period no change in the present routine is 
necessary. They should be kept as cool as possible, 
and free from insect attacks. For this purpose it is 
generally necessary to adopt some means of preven¬ 
tion, such as spraying with sooty water or with 
weak, liquid cow manure, or by dipping the plants 
occasionally overhead in a warm solution of Gishurst 
Compound, sulphur, and soft soap. The young 
growths as they advance should be tied to neat stakes, 
blue ones pre'erably. Neat workmanship in this 
direction affects the general appearance of a collec¬ 
tion in no small measure. Nothing is more deplor¬ 
able than long "tails 1 ' of thick matting. All ties 
should be made with thin bast, which should at the 
same time be neatly twisted and cut cleanly and 
closely at the ends. Most of our successful growers 
of Malmaison and tree Carnations use strict precau¬ 
tions in watering, and keep their plantsvery much on 
the dry side all winter. For myself I have had very 
satisfactory results from constant waterings, always 
keeping the soil in a moist condition. In mild win¬ 
ters, under such conditions, the plants grow wonder¬ 
fully well, having also an occasional feeding given 
them. In districts where the air is sulphurous 
disease in the leaves does not seem to spread at all 
so rapidly as in regions with a purer atmosphere. 
EJging Brakes. — Now that the ground is more or 
less all dug, and operations for getting in seeds are 
being thought of, that of making up the edges to 
brakes, and of forming alleys, has to be seen to. It 
is well to do this work when the ground is damp, 
though to attempt it on sticky land or land in too 
moist a condition would be sheer folly. Eighteen 
inches or two feet is wide enough for all ordinary 
alleys. Measure off this breadth with the rod, and 
place a stake in at the points required. Do so at 
two points— the top and the bottom of the alley. 
Between these stretch a line, and commence to make 
up a level edge. 
Having made the surface level according to your 
line, next go down the whole length, treading the soil 
firmly. This will have the effect of showing the 
parts most in need of make-up, fresh soil being 
added to the low parts and this again made firm. 
Lastly, take the back of the rake and draw it over 
the soil, directly over the stretched line. If a fair 
level is now brought up, the edge may be beaten to 
form a firmer and glazed border all its length. All 
is then ready for the cutting. Place the spade with 
its back to the line, and, in a half-beating, half¬ 
cutting manner, proceed to make an evenly sloping 
edge. This also should be firm, even, and smooth. 
A little of the centre soil may then be taken to make 
up the other edge, which, of course, is cut out in the 
same fashion. If need be, some of the central soil 
in the alley can be spread out on the land after brth 
edges are cut, but only a little should be taken ; the 
rest should be raked even. The beaten edges are not 
absolutely necessary, yet I think they give firmness 
and certainly smartness to the edges. 
Seed Sowing Indoors.—Pets, pans, and boxes, 
which are to be used for the purpose of seed-sowing, 
should be well cleaned and got out ready, or at least, 
looked over. Soil, leaf-mould, and sand, for the 
potting and seed-sowing composts, should be brought 
indoors so that a sufficient quantity of somewhat dry 
material shall be at hand whenever required. As a 
general rule, all composts for seeds which are sown 
indoors should be very light. The loam and leaf- 
mould, the sand too, sometimes, ought all to be put 
through a | in. sieve. Slightly more than one part 
of loam to one of leaf-mould, and a large quantity 
of sand may, as a rule, be mixed. The quality of 
the mould is important. Pieces of sticks and fungus 
growths should be rigorously excluded. Nothing 
but the cleanest of mould, Beech or Oak leaves 
preferably, should be employed. Sharp sand and 
friable loam are likewise necessary. Thoroughly 
prepared drainage is a sine qua non in the successful 
raising of seeds indoors. A shallow soil is also 
more advisable than a great depth in the pans or 
boxes. Two-and-a-half to three inches is quite a 
sufficient body of soil for all the smaller seeds. 
Having laid the crocks carefully, cover them over 
with some of the fibrous or clean refuse screenings. 
Then place in a layer of the coarser soil, above 
which that of finer quality, and still finer, should be 
filled in. Make it all moderately firm by pressing 
with the fingers. Leave about J-in. of space 
always at the top. All very fine seeds such as those 
of Gloxinias, Cyclamen, Cinerarias, and of the 
smaller vegetable seeds, should be evenly and thinly 
scattered over the level surface. Then the very 
finest of soil should be sifted through the fine sieve, 
and a mere screening of it sown, or dusted like 
pepper, over the seeds. The seeds merely require 
to be covered. Then take a flat bottomed box and 
make the surface gently even and firm. Watering 
may be done by immersing the pans nearly to the 
brims in tepid v.ater, by which process the water 
percolates upwards; or an overhead watering may be 
gently given by using a very fine-rosed can. Glass 
panes or circles should be placed over the top of the 
pots, pans, or boxes, to prevent evaporation and to 
maintain a steadier and closer air just over the sur¬ 
face soil. They may then be placed in the pits or 
cases in cool or warm houses, according to their 
several needs. The seeds of warm house plants like 
Gloxinias, &c., require a warm propagating pit. 
Those of greenhouse plants, such as Cyclamen, 
Bouvardias, and so on, also like a warm case (65°) 
to germinate in. A temperature of 6o° will be found 
sufficient for the germination of vegetable and half- 
hardy annual seeds. 
Seed-sowing out of Doors. —The proper prepara¬ 
tion of the soil is a necessary factor before seeds can 
be deposited in the open brakes and borders. All 
land for seeds should have been well broken up with 
the spade ; should have lain exposed to the elements 
and their pulverising effects, and after all this, should 
be finely broken down with hoe and rake previous to 
sowing. A dry, balmy morning should be chosen for 
the operation. The ground should be just sufficiently 
moist to turn over nicely, to be easily knocked about, 
yet not in the least hard, or on the other hand, pasty. 
With the proper mechanical condition of soil, the 
only need then is to draw out the drills or mark off 
the beds. A quart of Broad Beans will sow abjut 
80 ft ; of Beet, 1 oz. will sow about 50 ft.; while 
£-oz. of Cabbage seed is sufficient for a bed of eight 
square yards. Parsnips (1 oz.) can be made to sow 
a drill of 200 ft., and so on. These figures will give 
one an idea of how much is needed of other similar 
kinds of seeds. The driil for the finer seeds need 
only be 1 in. deep, and should be carefully covered 
in with the feet, and then firmed. Thinning out 
ought to be early practised. 
Flowering Shrubs : Buddleia —The Orange Ball 
Tree, as B. globosa is called, came from China so 
long ago as 1774. It is a pretty, bushy growing 
shrub, never exceeding 20 ft. in height. Its orange- 
coloured flowers are borne in spherical trusses, the 
size of a large marble, all over it in early summer. It 
is a special favourite with the bees. It does much 
better, however, in the southern counties than away 
northwards. It succeeds well in a deep, rich, sandy 
loam, the position being sheltered and well-drained. 
Caryopteris Mastacanthus —Everyone seems to 
have a love for this pretty little shrub. It came 
from China or Japan about the middle of this cen¬ 
tury. It flowers late in autumn, and I believe it is 
reported as being hardy in the south west of Scot¬ 
land. It is popularly known as the Blue Spiraea, 
and furnishes also a handsome pot plant. The 
flowers are bright violet-blue, being borne in heads 
in the axils of the leaves. It grows freely in light 
sandy peat, aDd can be raised from seeds. 
Ceanothus americanus.—This species bears white 
flowers, which spring in panicles from the axils of 
long leaves. Like others of the tribe the Sowers are 
carried in great abundance. 
C. azureus.—Being a native of Mexico this species 
thrives best when given the protection of a south 
wall. It grows rather too baggy to be recommend- 
able on all occasions, yet the glorious wealth of blue 
flowers which smother it in the springtime make it a 
most tempting plant to use. There are a number of 
varieties of C. azureus. They like a well-drained, 
light, rich soil. 
Spiraea bella.—For the edge of a lawn or shrub- ‘ 
bery, S. bella is very handsome. It throws out 
spreading plumes of soft, rosy-mauve flowers, in the 
months of May and June. The stems are tall and 
reddish, the leaves being ovate and acute. It is a 
very pretty species. 
Spiraea prunifolia flore pleno—For early con¬ 
servatory decoration toward the end of January, this 
twiggy and very graceful shrub with bead-like, pure 
white, small flowers, is a perfect gem. Perhaps 
another colour would be more acceptable for winter, 
but the plant is altogether so charming that its 
colour may be allowed. It came from China in 
1845. 
Staphylea colchica.—H^re again we have an 
easily managed pot flowering shrub. The none too 
bright, but, all the same, graceful and sweet, pendant 
racemes are much used by floris's for their decora¬ 
tions. It is said to be quite hardy, but of this I can¬ 
not say, having always grown it in pots for forcing. 
It attains 6 ft. in height, but can generally be kept 
down by pruning back the older shoots. 
Present Work—Shrubs and trees can be 
planted so long as the ground is fit. Walks can be 
made, and turfing can be done. Pruning will also 
occupy some time. Potting has started indoors.— 
Beacon. 
Correspondence. 
Questions asked by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening will be answered on this page. 
Anyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
“Amateurs' Page " on the top of their letters. 
Azalea mollis. — Geo. Simpson : The plan adopted 
abroad for propagation is by layering the side 
branches. Put out the old plants in August and 
peg them down, first notching them. Clematis 
Jackmani may be propagated by division of the root, 
or by notching or slitting the stems in September. 
Propagating Hardy Rhododendrons — Geo. Simp¬ 
son : The newly introduced and meritorious varieties 
are increased by grafting them on to R. ponticum. 
This latter variety is very hardy, has a vigorous 
constitution, rocts and produces suckers freely, and 
is therefore much used as a stock. Not to say that 
Rhododendrons cannot be increased otherwise, for if 
the shoots are notched and pegged down they will 
all become rooted. 
Campanula isophylla.— W. S. : The above is a 
pretty Italian species. You may propagate it by 
cuttings inserted next month or in March. Grow it 
as a greenhouse basket plant, or on window-sills. 
Cankered Apple Trees— J. Horner : When Apple 
trees canker the cause may frequently be attributed 
to poverty or sourness of the soil. Or some of the 
cankered branches may have been somewhat injured 
at one time or another, and to laid them open to the 
attack of the canker fungus. Lift the trees; prune 
off all rusted roots and replant them in thoroughly 
broken up and enriched soil. Some chemical ferti¬ 
liser may be incorporated with the soil immediately 
over the roots. One pound each of superphosphate 
and kainit may be used. 
Seed Sowing — L. 0. M .: Your questions are 
most opportune. A rule, given by up-to-date lec¬ 
turers on horticulture, is to sow the seeds the depth 
of three times their diameter. With many of the 
finer seeds, perhaps most, to sow them on the sur¬ 
face or just below is proper, and the above rule 
would hold good. But for Peas, Beans, and others, 
3 in. or 4 in. deep is none too much. Carrots, 
Onions, and all the Brassica tribe and seeds like the 
foregoing may be sown broad-cast and merely raked 
in ; or in drills drawn with the corner of the hoe, 
and only deep enough to mark the line. Sow from 
the packets, that is, only slit open one corner of the 
packet and walk along the line, shaking the seeds 
thinly into it, Cover these up with the feet and 
slightly rake, drawing that instrument in the same 
way as the lines run. But more information will 
be given under " Hints.” 
Irises from Seeds.— Saver : If the seeds are pro¬ 
perly ripened they will very likely germinate well 
enough. Sow them in shallow pans in April, keep¬ 
ing them in the cold frame, moist and shaded. When 
they appear they should first be pricked off into 
boxes and placed in the open air in a warm sheltered 
position. Next March they may be placed out iato 
sunny borders in the open air. 
Carnations front Seeds.— Saver: With such 
favourite flowers as Carnations are, it adds a great 
