February 3, 1900, 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
359 
abundance of sulphur coloured flower heads about 
i in. long. 
Acacia urophylla is another handsome species. 
The globular flower heads are pale lemon, and very 
effective. Acacia platyptera has singular, flattened 
stems, with abundant yellow flower heads in mid 
winter. Acacia riceana, and Acacia longifolia, are 
excellent species. Acacia dealbata is largely imported 
from France in Februar for cut flowers.— C. P. 
Cretchley , The Honeys, Twyford, Berks., 26 tli January, 
1900 . 
THE AIRING OF HOUSES. 
Now that the days are lengthening out again, and 
the sun making its power felt a little more, I think a 
few words on this subject will not be out of place- 
To some men airing seems a trivial matter (they are 
mostly the careless ones or those who take but little 
interest in their profession); but in reality it is one 
of the most important of a gardener’s duties. It 
calls for strict attention and sound judgment at all 
times, especially through the spring and summer 
months. From frames containing the more common 
of plants, to houses where the more delicate and 
choice ones thrive, the greatest care should be 
given to this duty of ventilation. It is rather difficult 
to lay down any hard and fast rule for men to go by, 
as the position and size of a house have to be taken 
into consideration. Naturally, houses having a 
south to south-east aspect will need air sooner than 
those so placed that the sun’s influence cannot reach 
them so soon. And again, small glass structures 
need ventilating sooner and much more than large, 
roomy houses will. But whatever house it be let air 
be given gradually, not in great quantities. Do not 
air with the idea of reducing the temperature, but to 
prevent it from rising too high. Generally speaking, 
a little air should be applied when the thermometer 
indicates a few degrees rise above the ordinary 
temperature of the house. 
PEA GRADUS. 
All gardeners, who happen to grow the above 
variety, should record their opinion on it, now its 
reputation is somewhat at stake. I must say I read 
with astonishment my friend Mr. Carmichael’s 
denunciation of this most excellent Pea ; for surely 
he has never had the true stock as supplied to me by 
Messrs. Veitch & Sons, Chelsea, also Messrs. R. 
Veitch & Son, Exeter. With us it is fit in about a 
week or ten days after Exonian, reaches quite 4 ft. 
high, and is an excellent cropper; pods large and 
straight, averaging seven to nine deep green peas, of 
most excellent flavour. I have heard one or two 
gardeners proclaim it a “rogue," so evidently there 
is more than one stock of it in commerce, and I am 
afraid Mr. Carmichael must have got hold of the 
inferior one. Would “J. C. S." kindly state his 
opinion on this Pea, as I know it is first favourite 
with him, no mean connoisseur on this delicious 
vegetable 1 —J. Mayne, Bicton. 
I am glad that someone has answered Mr. Car¬ 
michael re the Pea Gradus; and I fully endorse all 
that Mr. Harrison has to say of this fine Pea in your 
last issue. A friend of mine, after reading Mr. Car¬ 
michael’s letter in your valuable paper, exclaimed, 
i‘ Well, he ought to have seen my row of Gradus last 
year, doubtless he would have altered his tale." 
With all of us in our district last year it did well. 
My own were very fine. I have grown it for three 
seasons; it is the best early Pea (wrinkled) I have 
got hold of. This Pea was tested by the side of 
another Pea, sent out by a large firm at a great price 
and a big name, and the two Peas were the same 
in all points, proving to me, as Mr. Harrison says, 
that no Pea of recent introduction has had so much 
renaming. A glance at the catalogues this season 
will prove that .—James Smith, Harrow. 
■ -—s-- 
Kitcften Garden Calendar. 
Early Peas. —As soon as the soil can be got into 
workable order, a sowing of these should be made on 
a warm border or other sheltered situation. Dwarf 
varieties are preferable for narrow borders or small 
gardens, as these do not take up so much room. There 
are now plenty of first-class varieties of excellent 
flavour, so that there is no need to sow the inferior 
kinds. Those who can command room should at 
the same time make a sowing under glass for plant¬ 
ing out early in April. By so doing fully a fortnight 
might be gained in gathering. 
Broad Beans. —A sowing of these should be 
made in the open quarters of the Longpod type, as 
these are usually the most prolific. Carter’s Master¬ 
piece is a splendid variety, having green seeds, which 
much resemble the Green Windsors when cooked, 
but is more hardy and far more prolific. 
Seakale. —Prepare sets of this when the weather 
is wet, and cover them with litter to exclude the 
frost, that they may be ready for planting during the 
next month, when the ground is in a suitable condi¬ 
tion. By preparing the sets now, they will start 
more freely when planted. In many places the 
winter green crop is short, therefore an extra quan¬ 
tity of this useful vegetable is in request. Continue 
to introduce roots into the Mushroom house or other 
convenient place for blanching, or cover the crowns 
with pots and apply fermenting material in the open 
ground. 
Asparagus. —This will start much more readily 
now than before Christmas, therefore less time will 
be needed to have it ready for use. Where perma¬ 
nent beds are planted for forcing such can now have 
the lights put over them, and fermenting material 
applied to generate heat to induce a free growth. 
The lights will attract the sun better if placed at a 
greater angle than is usually the case, therefore when 
putting the frames over the beds, see that the back is 
well raised. 
French Beans. —As the days lengthen less fire- 
heat will be required to keep these in a growing state, 
but the temperature must not be allowed to fall too 
low, or the pods will not swell satisfactory. These 
plants are much subjected to the attacks of red 
spider when grown in a dry atmosphere. To guard 
against this, use the syringe freely whenever the 
weather is bright, but do not wet the foliage when 
the plants are in bloom. Make other sowings as the 
plants become exhausted, so as to keep up a constant 
supply. 
Early Potatos. —As soon as those growing in 
heated pits are sufficiently forward enough for earth¬ 
ing, this should be done, choosing a warm day, if 
possible, for putting the soil round the plan ts. Do 
not expose them to the open air longer than can be 
avoided, as this would cause a check to the growth. 
Take care that those growing in frames in hot beds, 
whose foliage touches the glass, are well protected at 
night, in case the leaves get frozen. Prepare 0 her 
sets for planting in cold frames, and for succession. 
There is nothing gained by planting too early in the 
open ground, but, in warm situations, and at the lout 
of south walls, sets may be put in towards the middle 
of the month 
Carrots —Those on hot-beds will now be well 
through the soil. A close watch must be kept for 
snails as these are very destructive to the young 
plants. The most effectual plan to rid the frames of 
them is to search carefully by lamplight on mild 
nights. If this operation is repeated two or three 
times there will be little harm done afterwards. It 
is the small snails that are hatched by the genial 
warmth of the soil that do the mischief. A sowing 
may now be made in a sheltered situation on a warm 
border where the soil is light, but better defer sowing 
where the land is heavy till after the middle of the 
month. Those sown in July are proving very useful 
at the present time, and will continue to do so till the 
young ones are ready for use. 
Small Seeds. —Intending exhibitors should now 
make sowings of the undermentioned, either on hot¬ 
beds or in boxes placed in heat. It is impossible to 
have some vegetables forward enough unless re¬ 
course be had to this method of culture. Onions, 
Leeks, Forcing Cauliflower, Celery, and Cos Lettuce 
are the more important at present. Too much heat 
must not be applied or the plants will get drawn up 
and be worthless. 
Cucumbers. —By this time, seed that was sown in 
the early part of last month will have produced 
plants large enough for planting out. Where fer¬ 
menting material is used for bottom heat, see that 
this has been turned over two or three times before 
being taken into the house, otherwise the ammonia 
therefrom may prove injurious. Cover the bed with 
soil, but do not plant for a few days, or until such 
times as there is no danger of the roots being injured 
by too much heat. Maintain a night temperature of 
from 65° to 70°, with a rise of 5 0 or to° by day 
according to the state of the external air. When 
the sun is bright, ventilate in the early part of the 
day, but close the house about two o'clock so as to 
raise the temperature afterwards.— W.F.J. 
The Orchid Grower’s Calendar. 
Potting. —Delays are dangerous is a truthful sayiDg, 
therefore, though the weather is not particularly 
favourable, we must make a start somewhere or we 
shall not get through in time with the necessary 
work. 
We generally commence by going through the 
Laelia anceps as they go out of flower. This year 
they are late, so much so that the flowering season 
will go far into February, so that it is impossible to 
make a clean sweep of the whole batch of plants of 
this section. 
Preparing the plants for the operation is as 
essential as it is to prepare them for exhibition 
After the flower spikes are cut we generally sponge 
the plants and give them a good soaking. This soon 
makes them plump up ; then withhold water until 
they are moderately dry, when the repotting should 
be done. It is a mistake to repot when they are 
very wet or dust dry and perhaps shrivelly. Another 
point to be observed is that new root action has 
commenced. The best possible time to repot ail 
plants (short of being actually in flower or approach¬ 
ing that stage) is when new roots are pushing from 
the newly-made-up pseudobulbs. If these roots are 
allowed to get very long the work becomes more 
tedious ; besides roots that run riot outside the pots 
or baskets and have attained a good length very 
rarely take kindly to being confined inside the pot; 
but when some Dew sweet stuff is placed for them 
to take hold of first off everything goes well. 
Unless the plants require a larger basket we 
simply pick out all the old compost and as much of 
the drainage as is convenient so as to get rid of all 
the woodlice, or they will eat the new roots beside 
chewing up all the live moss. If there is any diffi¬ 
culty experienced in dislodging them, well syringe 
the remaining crocks with tepid water, they will 
soon shift and can be easily killed. Plants thus 
treated should, however, stand over until next day 
bnfoi e filling in with fresh compost, as it is a mistake 
to cover up roots when wet. We ourselves make 
the plants secure by placing supports, then fill in 
with crocks, finishing off with a thin layer of peat 
and moss, working in pieces of crocks here acd 
there to keep it open so that the air can get at the 
roots. 
Watering. —Very little water will be required for 
some time, just a syringe over to keep the moss 
alive ; but when it is seen that the roots are working 
through the compost they may receive a good supply, 
allowing time for them to dry up between each 
watering. 
Laelia anceps, and, in fact, all Mexican Laelias 
like to be suspended near the glass so that to ac¬ 
commodate them with what they require baskets or 
shallow pans should be used. We prefer pans to 
baskets as a rule, but the white forms owing to their 
racing habit require too much room for pan culture, 
so that teak wood baskets are the best on account of 
their lightness, thus avoiding too great a strain on 
the roof as would be the case with heavy pans. 
Cool House. —Where Odontoglossum crispum is 
grown in quantity there is sure to be a good number 
left over from the September potting that are just 
now ready for a shift. We have pointed out before 
now that plants of this section may be repotted at 
any time, in tact, it is better to do it when in spike 
than not at all, apyway do not let them get into a 
bad condition before doing it. 
Odontoglossum harryanum. —-This is in great 
request just now fur hybridising purposes, and if not 
the best to keep in good condition and to flower 
regularly as well, it is nevertheless fairly tractable 
with ordinary care as regards a little addition of 
sweet compost at the right time and a few moie 
degrees of heat during the winter months, so that 
intending buyers would do well to remember this. 
It will save trouble later on. 
Temperatures. —There will be no necessity for 
raising them much as yet by fire heat.— S. C. 
