860 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
February 3, 1900. 
||ints for ||mateurs. 
Annual Asters.—To any one who has studied the 
sections, types, and varieties of annual or Chinese 
Asters, the Callistephus hortensis or Callistemma 
hortense, the pursuance and comprehension of all the 
relationships between the original form and those to 
which it has given rise will be known as having 
demanded strict observance. The sections are now 
permanent and well defined, however, so that to 
those who only wish to secure and grow any special 
type, such as the Victoria, Comet, Chrysanthemum 
or Paeony — flowered Asters, all they need do is to 
order seeds and grow them. By a careful selection 
our gardens can be greatly brightened, both indoors 
and in the garden proper, by their presence. 
Victoria Asters—These are here placed first 
because they are amongst the most showy and 
massive of the Asters. For exhibition purposes 
they are much prized, as likewise are the quilled 
types. Good plants can, and do, produce a couple 
of dozen good blooms per plant. They grow from 
15 in. up to 2 ft. in height. Their colours are 
various. 
Quilled Asters.—The flowers of the Quilled Asters 
are graceful, they having an outer edge of ray petals 
and a central disc of fluted petals. Growing to 2 ft. 
they branch remarkably and are very suitable for 
cutting as decorative blooms indoors. 
Pyramidal Bouquet.—We al-o have a fine class 
in the Dwarf Pyramidal Bouquet Asters, whose 
special character is their flower-producing qualities. 
The name given to the section indicates the habit 
of the plants. As pot subjects they are very success¬ 
fully employed. They are more or less found in 
distinct colours. 
Bedding Asters.—This is the strain which we most 
largely use in beds and borders, for which purposes 
they are very much adapted. The flowers are often 
compared to the Chrysanthemum-flowered types, 
and indeed the two sections should be regarded as 
one. There is another strain known as the miniature 
bedding _Asters, which are more suitable for the 
edges of beds and borders. They should be planted 
about half a foot apart. With the bedding Asters we 
might classify the dwarf pompon-flowered types. 
Dwarf German Asters also are suitable for bed¬ 
ding, as they never get beyond 8 in. or 9 in. in height. 
They, too, are sometimes given pot culture. The 
German " Empress ” strain has large blooms. 
The "Empress” Asters take after the Victoria type, 
but are handsomer, being remarkable for their size, 
substance, and beauty. Their height does not ex¬ 
ceed 12 in., and they flower early, the whole habit of 
the plants being toward massiveness and magnifi¬ 
cence. An enthusiastic friend of mine who exhibits 
Asters, prizes the Empress strain immensely. 
Comet Asters. — In the Comet Asters we have a 
distinctly different build of flower. The petals are 
wavy, long, and twisted, appearing in a good 
specimen just like a small Japenese Chrysanthemum 
bloom. The flowers become very large, but the 
plants are not extra tall, only about 15 in. They 
are also known as " Plume ” Asters. Another taller 
form of the Comet Aster is known as the Giant 
Comet, having larger flowers. It is a type suitable 
for pots, but the ordinary Comet Aster is equal or 
better than this. 
Crown or Cockade Asters. — These are singular 
in that the centres are white, while the edges are 
variously and broadly coloured. They attain a 
height off and on, about 18 in. 
The foregoing variations of the annual Asters are 
constant enough when the seed plants are kept well 
rogued. Every year we are having fresh additions 
to the list of novelties in this class of plants, and we 
welcome them, for the Asters are a very serviceable 
class of plants. Nurserymen have certain strains 
which they foster and select from, eventually secur¬ 
ing types which become quite distinct. Much of the 
finest seed is saved by German and Dutch firms, 
specially for our English houses. Seeds are now 
subjected to so severe and complete tests before 
being offered, that any fault in the germination of 
seeds must be placed with the sower of them. The 
culture of the annual Asters is simple. Prepare 
shallow boxes toward the middle of March (or cold 
frames either), and sow the seeds thinly and evenly 
on a level surface. Water carefully, and keep the 
boxes in a house with a temperature of 55° or 
so. When they are large enough to handle prick 
them out 4 in. apart into larger boxes filled with 
good rich soil. In May or June plant them out, or 
pot them up for the greenhouse, as the case may 
be. 
Gladioli.—The Asters are a varied class, and 
pretty, but Gladioli (which is plural for Gladiolus) 
are like kings beside them, so stately are they. This 
is not intended, and need not neutralise what we said 
in favour of Aster growing, for they occupy different 
spheres altogether. They do not compete for favour, 
both of them should be cultivated. But, among 
hardy flowers, Gladioli are among those facile princeps. 
The corms (they are frequently, but erroneously, 
termed bulbs) should be planted in March or April, 
a few inches deep, in rich beds of loamy soil. They 
will then produce spikes from August till late in 
autumn For harvest festivals, the white and crim¬ 
son, large flowered Gladioli are superb. Early stak¬ 
ing of the spikes is advisable, and feeding with 
liquid manure during the later period of active 
growth is recommendable. To increase the number 
of corms for planting, I have successfully made 
divisions of strong samples. Each half must, of 
course, have a bud to it. 
Gladiolus gandaYensis.—This section is that 
which is commonly termed the large-flowered 
Gladioli. Some of the finer varieties in the section 
are: Mary Anderson, Lord Powis, Mrs. J. Eyton, 
Nautch Girl, and others of this style. 
Nancieanus hybrids.—These differ, of course, 
according to the other parent used with G. gandaven- 
sis. The Nancieanus type has a wide, open, well- 
expanded flower, massive, and finely spotted in the 
throat. Other features are its colouring Hybrids 
have originated from crossing G. Sa'undersii and G. 
gandavansis. The resulting hybrids partake of 
characters from both parents. Lord Curzon, Hall 
Caine, and the Khedive are samples of Nancieanus 
hybrids. 
The Lemoinei, or large-spotted hybrids, come 
from the crossing of G. gandavensis and G. purpureo- 
auratus. Then we have the brenchleyensis section, 
whose characters are an earlier period of flowering, 
and a confined tint of colour, being vermilion- 
scarlet. The species G. byzantinus flowers toward 
midsummer. Its growth is more slender, and the 
flowers are purple. It is suitable for a sunny 
rockery. 
G. Colsillei and G. C. alba, or The Bride are well- 
known pot varieties. From the old G. psittacinus, 
which is scarlet and yellow, and flowers from April 
to August, one may say that the noble race of 
present day Gladioli are due, it having been the 
means of inspiring the late Mr. James Kelway, Sen., 
wiih bis enthusiastic study of these plants. 
Present Work. — The plant houses, warm stoves, 
and ferneries, &c., should be damped down each 
morning, going over the stages and between the 
pots. Care must be exercised so ihat the plants are 
not moistened when they ought not to be. Potting 
up, propagation and seed sowing are matters to mind 
at the present. Cuttings of Chrysanthemums may 
still be inserted. Those which are rooted may be 
potted into thumb pots. Fuchsias which have been 
rested may be shaken out and started. Pelargoniums 
in boxes for bedding may require to be picked over, 
but if they can do without water leave them as they 
are. Callas require feeding now. 
Sow the following vegetable seeds:—French 
Beans, Tomatos, Onions, Carrots, and Radishes. 
Mustard and Cress for salading may be sown in 
shallow boxes. Potatos for early planting may be 
cut up and placed in boxes to sprout, afterwards to 
be planted. Be careful in the airing and damping of 
fruit houses which are being forced. Do not forget 
to pot on and pinch or train up, according to taste, 
the batch of Schizanthus. These, as I have said 
before, are among the prettiest of spring flowering 
annuals for our conservatories. A sowing may even 
yet be made in a temperature of 6o°, giving the 
plants cool treatment after germination. Batches 
for forcing should be brought on. Lawns in need of 
dressings of fine soil and manure should now have 
it. Levelling may proceed, and Box laying, 
&c., can be done. Paths may be mended.— Beacon. 
Onion Seed. —The yield of Onion seed in U.S.A. is, 
we are informed, very much less than past opinion 
would have us believe. It is stated this is owing 
to mildew. 
Correspondence. 
Questions asked by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening will be answered on this page. 
Anyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
" Amateurs' Page " on the top of their letters. 
Frame and Border Yiolets.— Jas. Vertow: Venti¬ 
late your frame violets more freely and protect them 
from frost. Be especially careful not to expose 
frosted leaves to the sun. Probably there is some 
injurious element in the atmosphere, or the fog may 
have caused the damage to the leaves. It is difficult 
to say what’s what, and just as difficult, we know, to 
keep the plants clean and healthy. Young runners 
should be chosen in April from around the collar of 
the parent plants. Plant these in lines in half- 
shaded borders A deep, rich, loamy soil is to their 
liking. If light, the soil should be well enriched 
with dung, and the smoulderings from rubbish 
heaps. The cuttings from the runners should be 
placed in about 9 inches, to 1 ft. either way. Make 
them firm. Throughout the summer keep them free 
from weeds, and stir the surface soil. Water them 
if need be, and by September they should be ready 
for planting in the frames. Keep the runners re¬ 
moved. 
Jadoo for Window Box— W. L. : We have ex¬ 
perienced much comfort from the convenient way in 
which Jadoo can be handled in such cases as you 
mention. Mixed with some turfy loam, or used 
alone, we have nothing but the highest praise for the 
material. All sorts of hardy bulbs and soft-woeded 
plants, Ferns, &c., did well in it. It retains mois¬ 
ture, too. After a couple of seasons it requires to be 
renewed or newly mixed with fresh fibre. 
Planning a Back Garden.— A.D. K. : From the 
notes you send, we will set your garden down at a 
quarter of an acre. It is also well situated as 
regards shelter and the sun’s influence. One Apple 
tree and some Black Currant bushes are all that it 
contains. Well, A. D. K., plenty of gardens in 
the suburbs of our cities have not even so much as 
that. And it’s a pity. For, if anything should give 
happiness and a love for home, it should be the 
garden. If amateurs would but interest themselves 
in the gardening papers and gain some insight to the 
needs of plants, probably we should have fewer of 
those backyard wildernesses. First of all, you may 
as well lift the few Currants and place them in a 
shady corner to take up as little space as possible. 
Then thoroughly dig it, or, if it is as hard as you 
say, get someone else to do it. Pay him well and see 
that he does it properly. Then mark out spaces for 
ore or two main alleys, which can be cindered 
for cleanliness. Box edging is expensive, and 
stone or tile edgings may be placed in, instead. Then 
plan off the different borders and brakes. A flower 
border of about 4 ft. should margin each of your 
main alleys, and at the back of these the vegetable 
brakes may be planned. Standard apples would be 
most preferable to dot about. The wall may be 
covered with Pears, Plums, or Cherries. By careful 
management you should be able to have a neat little 
garden. A small drying green may be made next the 
house. 
Cosmos from Seeds.—The annual 
Cosmos may certainly be raised from seeds, sowing 
these in a gentle heat in spring. They require much 
the same treatment as other annuals, being first 
pricked off into boxes, and then transplanted to open 
borders in May. There are also perennial species, 
and these too, are easy to cultivate, and are wonder- 
ously showy. 
Neillia thyrsoides .—John S. Sewel: This neat 
little shrub of which you enquire is very similar to 
a shrubby Spiraea. N. thyrsiflora appears to be 
another version of its name, but we prefer the one 
heading, this, as being more strictly descriptive of 
the manner of flowering, thyrsoid being a closer 
arrangement of the inflorescence than we find in the 
panicle of which Gypsophila paniculata is an ideal 
sample. The flowers are white and rather sparsely 
borne, the wood being slender but erect. It is hardy 
if a well-drained sandy soil and sheltered position be 
given to it. Propagate by division, or by cuttings 
of nice young wood. 
