392 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
February 17, 1S00. 
FOR 
||mateurs. 
Phloxes.—Taking up another well-known and 
thoroughly popular class of hardy flowering border 
plants, and casting our survey over their forms and 
colours, the wondering question arises, ” Whatever 
would we do without Phloxes ? ” The tall growing 
perennial species, P. paniculata, P. decussata, P. 
acuminata, and their varieties which flower from the 
end of July till well into Autumn, are especially 
' glorious. Glmious may seem a mighty expression of 
praise, but glorious in all the breadth of meaning 
which that word has, have they. The colours, well, 
there’s no chance of exhausting their range, for 
amoDg them we have snow white, and blue-purple ; 
we have salmon-pink, carmine, lavender, pink, crim¬ 
son, and every mixture of hue possible. One 
colour is awanting, and that is yellow. 
There are four sections of Phloxes. The first we 
have just been noting. The second section is of a 
dwarf growing habit, and well typified in the plant 
so common in May and June in our reck gardens 
and flower beds, the little Phlox subulata. This 
grows in trailing, carpeting fashion, bearing bouquets 
of closely studded rosy-pink starry blossoms. As a 
rule, members of this dwarf section never go beyond 
9 in. or i ft. in height. 
P. subulata represents the specific form of the 
dwarf early flowering plants. P. sufiruticosa yields 
us the type of early summer flowering Phloxes, while 
those species and varieties which bloom from the 
end of July onwards come under P paniculata, P. 
acuminata, and P. decussata. As a fourth section 
we may include Phlox Drummondii, an annual 
species, originally brought from Texas in 1835 A 
pinch of seed sown in pans or shallow boxes and 
treated as I have lately been describing, will, pro¬ 
viding the necessary steps and care be taken, supply 
lovely flower masses for the early autumn or end of 
summer. 
The cultural demands of the Phloxes, like so many 
other of our hardy and most beautiful plants, are 
easy to meet. Certainly they like a deep rich soil, 
and indeed, must have this, if they have anything. 
To form a satisfactory collection, make a start 
by obtaining good plants now, or as early from this 
date as possible. The autumn flowering, or as I care 
to call them, the tall Phloxes, should be planted 
toward the back of borders, in beds or out in the 
open parts of the shrubbery. This latter arrange¬ 
ment of the Phloxes need not be contemplated until 
such time as a stock can be divided off from those 
bought in the first instance. Dig the soil as deeply 
as possible, enrichiDg it liberally and then plant. 
In the summer time, a mulch is of the greatest 
benefit, and next to it, constant surface hoeing. Water 
may at times be required, but it is well to avoid the 
practice if other means can he taken to tide through 
a trying time. Referring to the dwarf Phloxes, these 
are propagated chiefly by division, and from insertion 
of cuttings. The young plants may be divided in 
autumn, or cuttings then taken, and the pieces potted 
up in a sandy compost using small pots. By care¬ 
ful watching, after placing them in a cold frame and 
keeping it close for a time, they become rooted and 
ready for spring planting. As a rule it matters 
little in what position the Phloxes are, provided a 
fa : r share of sunlight on the one hand, and slight 
shade from severe sunshine on the other, can be 
obtained. To save them from the hustling of winds, 
choose a sheltered spot, when choice can be made. 
Aquilegias.—The peculiarity of the shape in 
Aquilegia blooms, and their sprightly bearing, cause 
them to be held in universal regard. As hardy 
perennials, they are worthy of a place in any garden, 
and for the amateur who wishes flowers, pretty and 
plenty of them, let him raise a panful of Aquilegias. 
It is not needful here to do more than state that there 
are a good many species and distinct hybrids of the 
plant, varying in the colour of the flowers, but of 
these five may be specially notedi By and-bye as 
we go on hybridising these may become more and more 
confused. At present, however, A chrysantha is a 
species of a rich yello w tint; A. caerulea has blue 
and white flowers; A. californica, which possesses 
flowers with a shade of scarlet, is being much 
improved by selection ; A. glandulosa has white and 
blue flowers, as in the Rocky Mountain Columbine, 
but in form they are rounder and broader. A. 
Skinneri is a dwarf species, the dwarfest indeed, and 
has flowers of a red and green suffusion. 
These can all be had true, and the hybrids from 
them can be obtained from seeds. As pot plants, 
brought on for early flowering, the Columbines are 
a very fine class of plants. It is worth while making 
a special Aquilegia bed, or specialising them some¬ 
where in a sunny sheltered position ol the garden. 
A well drained soil is a first requisite, and if it is 
porous and rich, so much the better. Sow seeds on 
the surface soil of shallow pans, watering with tepid 
water, and place glass over the rim. A warm green¬ 
house or pit answers till they have germinated. 
From thence, prick them into boxes, and when 
growth has again started remove them to a cooler 
house, finally planting them out in the open. 
A Workman’s Back Garden.—We chose a number 
of plants suitable for the walls of small backyard 
gardens of v orking men in last week’s “Hints.” 
Continuing, a selection will be made of annual plants 
and others which are perennial and herbaceous. 
Taking the latter first, the following is not a long 
list, but it has the merit of being on all points 
thoroughly good. Borders are more general than 
are bsds in such gardens as here described, so that 
these only are kept in view in this instance. In 
planting, whatever is selected although there is 
always present the desire to have as great variety as 
possible, the rule should at the same time be to make 
good sized masses of the plants. For instance, with 
Phloxes or Michaelmas Daisies, we would never 
expect a unitary stem, or two or three to represent a 
plant. No, but a bush, 1 ft. through, and the larger 
the garden, the larger may the masses be, up to a 
certain limit. When they become too broad, divide 
the plants and replant one of the halves, giving away 
the other half unless you have a place for it. For 
the back parts of the border I would suggest Chrys¬ 
anthemums, Michaelmas Daisies, Paeonies, Aconi- 
tiam autumnale, Phloxes, Gladioli—to be planted in 
March each year—Helianthus, Anemone japonica, 
and Harpalium rigidum. Shrubby plants such as 
Spiraeas and the Mezereon may aiso find a place. 
More in the middle of the border the following 
dwarftr plants will be serviceable :—Campanulas 
of the taller sorts, Lilium^, Centranthus ruber, 
DoroDicums, China Roses, and Irises. In a third 
and still dwarfer zone, the plants after the style of 
Geraniums, dwarf Antirrhinums, Daffodils, Pentste- 
mons, Carnations, Wallflowers, Christmas Roses, 
and Begonias, &c., will be in good keeping. Towards 
the front the following list of annuals may be sown 
in springtime, or raised under glass previously for 
planting out in May:—Cornflowers, Calendula, or 
Cape Marigold, Calliopsis, Candytuft, Clarkia 
elcgans, Eschscholtzia californica, Gaillardias, 
Gypsophila elegans, Honesty, Linum grandiflorum, 
Mignonette, Nemophila insignis, Nemesias, and 
Sweet Peas for the wallside and hedges. Plants 
which are dwarf, but not treated as annuals, are 
Primulas, Polyanthus, Violets, Auriculas, Lily-of- 
the-Valley (for a bed along the north wall), numerous 
Saxifragas, Cerastium tomentosum, Gentiana 
acaulis, Snowdrops, Crocuses, Squills, and Winter 
Aconites. 
For a rockwork, select dwarf shrubs such as 
golden leaved Privet, Yuccas, Buxus, dwarf-growing 
Conifers as Retinospora obtusa nana, R. filifera, 
Picea excelsa pygmaea, dwarf HoTies, Yews, 
Gaultherias, Viburnum plicatum, Veronicas, 
besides Arundinaria Fortunei, and Bambusas when 
kept cut back. Then the Aubretias, Alysum 
saxatile, Ericas, Ferns, Magasea crassifolia, and 
many other things may be chosen. 
The cultural hints for most of the subjects here¬ 
with named have often been treated of under 
“ Hints,” and are likely to receive justice in the 
future. Make use of the correspondence column 
when in doubt. And now about the price of all this. 
Well, plants, seeds, and so on, run off with a lot of 
money. At the same time it is money well spent. 
I have treated merely on the ornamental side of the 
question. At another time we may consider how 
to, and what to grow for the dinner table, and for 
the family consumption. A greater interest in the 
cultivating of flowers in the back gardens attached 
to our suburban and rural villas and workmen's 
cottages, would in most ways be profitable, and 
healthful to the land. But more need not be 
reasoned upon or pleaded for now. The commercial 
value (nurserymen's prices) of the climbing plants 
mentioned last week, may be set down at an average 
of one shilling to one and sixpence each. Ten 
shillings may be set aside for seven or eight subjects 
for the walls. Five or six shillings will go a good 
way to cover the list of annuals required for a small 
garden, provided the buyer studies the offers of the 
seedsmeD. Cheapness is not always best, however. 
Then the purchase of perennial plants such as I have 
mentioned—Irises, Christmas Roses, Michaelmas 
Daisies, Paeonies, &c.—means another goodly sum. 
They could all be raised from seeds or other means, 
but we are presuming an empty garden and limited 
skill. Therefore, we must say from fifteen to twenty- 
five shillings will be required. In judicious hands 
the total sum spent (less than £2) is amply sufficient 
to stock, with very suitable plants, aback garden of 
from 40 ft. to 60 ft. long, and 12 ft. to 15 ft. broad. 
No one who has any love for gardens and plants will 
think this too much, especially when we know that 
some men, or some class of men, pay guineas 
for a dog for mere ornament.— Beacon. 
Correspondence. 
Questions asked by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening will be answered on this page. 
Anyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
“ Amateurs' Page " on the top of their letters. 
Yarlous Questions —Robert Johnstone, Dumbarton : 
Begonias and Gloxinias should beth be looked over, 
repotted in a light rich compost, and afterwards 
watered. Place the Gloxinias on a well lighted shelf 
in a fernery or plant stove. The Begonias, after 
being potted, and if not wanted for an early period, 
should have an intermediate temperature to start 
with, after which they may be taken to a cool house 
of 50° minimum. All your dried off Fuchsias 
and Pteris Ferns, should certainly be started now. 
Sow the Antirrhinum seeds, as likewise the 
Pentstemons, in pans of light, firmly pressed soil, 
and on the surface. Water through a fine rose can, 
placing the pans in a case or pit with a temperature 
of 6o°. Afterwards prick into other boxes, and in 
April plant out into the borders. Dahlia tubers may 
be placed in a warm vinery for the supply of cuttings. 
Planting Border Carnations. — J.•Errol : Delay 
the planting till the middle of March ; your Lothian 
district is too cold for any gain to accrue from early 
planting. Meanwhile collect and incorporate rotten 
duDg, wood ashes, and ground charcoal. 
Petunias and Roses.— J. Errol-. Sow the 
Petunias very carefully’as per hints to Robert John¬ 
stone. Greater care is demanded in raising Petunias 
because of their liability co damp off in a mbist 
warm air, and of becoming soft, drawn and useless 
from detention in heat when in the seedling stage. 
Prick off into thumbs, and keep them moderately 
cool and dry. H. P. Roses from borders can be 
planted till the middle of next month (March); after¬ 
wards secure pot-grown subjects. Mulch them 
during summer to preserve the moisture. 
Sprouted Bulbs for Planting —J. Gemmell: The 
sprouting of bulbs under such adverse and un¬ 
natural circumstancs as they are known to do is very 
puzzling, yet absorbingly interesting. During all the 
favourable weather of summer, with warmth and 
moisture in the ground, there they lie a paradox 
upon the other parts of Nature's vegetation. Then 
up they come, and forth they sprout amid the cold¬ 
ness of a snow-dressed border, or the dryness of a 
bulb merchant's storeroom. These are our thoughts, 
so we are at one with you. To the other phase of 
your query we say most decidedly buy up and plant 
such bulbs as are net too far sprouted. The 
majority of bulb dealers have still a stock, and 
prices now are considerably reduced on such bulbs. 
Plant deeply in borders and woods, grass, &c., for 
natura’ising. 
Paraffin Stove Smelling. —J .Williams, Middlesex : 
Your greenhouse is certainly a tiny one, >et the 
occupants we presume are none the less valuable to 
you. Paraffin fumes and a heated air are certainly 
detrimental to the growth of the plants. What we 
advise is to make a neat little pit outside the wall of 
your house for your stove, and have it nicely covered 
over. Another foot or two feet of piping wculd be 
required, but the bad smell and probable evil would 
be banished. 
