March 17, 1900. 
THE GARDENING WORLD, 
455 
having been dug some time beforehand. Sow the 
seeds on the surface and merely rake them in. 
Lawns should be swept and rolled firmly to aid 
the grasses. A firm bottom is necessary to the mak¬ 
ing and maintenance of a sound and beautiful lawn, 
besides which it seems to deter the working of the 
worms. Shrubs and hardy border plants should so 
far as possible be all planted before March ends. 
From the fact of the increasing need for the men at 
other occupations, and also for the good of the plants 
and shrubs themselves, the above rule ought strictly 
to be carried out. 
Levelling, relaying turf, and sowing lawn seed for 
lawns may be carried on. The past few days, 
though cold, have not been against us for sowing 
lawn seed. The subject of how to make a lawn 
from seeds or by turfing was well described in The 
Gardening World some short time ago. As 
forced material goes out of use, harden it off in cool 
houses or frames for planting out later on. Spiraeas, 
forced bulbs, and hard-wooded plants should all be 
taken good care of. Leaf soil, road scrapings, and 
turf parings, which can be had in considerable 
quantity at this time of year, should be stacked for 
use at a later period. Such composts are always in 
demand, no matter what the soil be, where planting 
on any scale has to be done. 
The summer bedding plants in frames and in 
warm houses should be day and daily attended. 
Propagation of soft-wooded dwarf plants and the 
sowing of half hardy annuals must be undertaken. 
The amounts of any one sort of plant to be used in 
the summer flower garden should be computed in 
good time. For this purpose it is necessary to have 
a mental plan of the arrangements and designs of 
the beds.—7. H.D. 
—— 
Kitctien Garden Calendar. 
The Soil having now got somewhat into a workable 
conditions, operations in this department will be 
somewhat brisk, as this is a very important time of 
the year both for sowing and planting. It is, how¬ 
ever, well to be cautious in planting out these 
vegetables which have been raised under glass, for 
it was during the latter days of March that we 
suffered so much last season, and should we 
experience anything approaching such weather this 
year the plants will be far better under cover. 
Therefore, I would not advise being in too great a 
hurry, as changes are very sudden at this time of the 
year, it may be quite mild one day, and the next cold 
winds with snow falling. 
Peas. —Towards the end of the month, should the 
weather be favourable, those which have been 
brought forward under glass may be planted out. It 
is not advisable to plant tall Peas on Marrow 
borders, as they take up too much room, such 
varieties as Gradus, Exonian, Early Giant, Early 
Morn, and others that grow from 4 ft. to 5 ft. high 
should be planted on the open quarters, while Chelsea 
Gem, Excelsior, English Wonder, Carter’s Forcing, 
and those that do not exceed 2 ft. should occupy 
the narrow borders. Sowings should also be made 
for succession of such varieties as Duke of Albany, 
Telephone, and Exhibition, while of the dwarfer 
kinds, Veitch’s Main Crop, Invincible, Perfect Gem, 
Perfection, Danby Stratagem, Dwarf Defiance, and 
those of that class may be grown. Peas are such an 
important crop in all private gardens, that ample 
space must be allowed for succession al sowings, as 
these ought to be continued once every fortnight 
till June. Between the rows of Peas such dwarf 
growing crops as Lettuce, Radishes, and Spinach 
may be grown, and in the case of the taller varie¬ 
ties, Cauliflower and Turnips, as all these crops will 
be ready for use by the time the Peas are gathered. 
Other plants that have been afforded the protection 
of frames will be hardened off ready for transferring 
to the open ground These will include Leeks, 
Onions, Cauliflower, Lettuce, and Broad Beans. 
Seakale, —Sets of these that were prepared some 
time ago, and placed beneath decayed leaves or 
manure to keep them-plump, should now be planted. 
The distance usually allowed is from 9 in. to 10 in. 
in the row, and a distance of 2 ft. between the rows. 
There is nothing gained by planting closer, as the 
foliage has not sufficient room to develop, therefore 
the crowns do not attain to that size requisite to be 
of any value for forcing. Given plenty of room and 
suitable ground it is astonishing how these plants 
will grow when once the roots have got hold of the 
soil. 
Cucumbers growing in houses should now be 
making rapid progress, as the sun has sufficient 
power to run up the temperature to 90° or even ioo®. 
These temperatures, however, must not be reached 
unless air is admitted at the same time, for though 
the Cucumber delights in a moist atmosphere and 
high temperature, there must be sufficient air to give 
strength to the foliage, otherwise the plants will flag, 
and will not set their fruit freely. Stop each growth 
at the first joint beyond the fruit, so as to induce the 
plants to make plenty of lateral growths, as it is from 
these that the fruit is produced. Some varieties, such 
as Telegraph, for example, will show from three to 
five fruits at a joint. Some of these should be re¬ 
moved, as it is not advisable lo over-crop in the early 
stages, or the plants will soon become exhausted 
Tie the growths down to the wires, and thin them 
out, so that the foliage may not be overcrowded. 
Tomatos. —Seeds of these should now be sown in 
a gentle heat to produce plants for planting either in 
frames or in the open. Unless the plants get well 
forward by the time it is safe to put them out of 
doors, the season is too far advanced before the 
fruit has time to ripen, in which case much of the 
crop is spoiled. By sowing now and getting the 
plants well forward they will commence to fruit soon 
after being put out. Those already up should be 
potted on before they get crowded in the seed pans, 
and be placed near the glass to keep them dwarf. 
Celery. —Prick out plants as soon as they are 
large enough to handle, and return them to a gentle 
heat. The plants should at no time receive a check, 
as this will cause them to bolt when transplanted 
into the trenches. If kept steadily growing from the 
time the seed is sown that is the way to ensure 
success Sow now for a late batch either on a slight 
hot-bed or in a box, to be afterwards placed in 
a gentle heat. A pinch of Autumn Giant Cauli¬ 
flower, Brussels Sprouts, and early Broccoli should 
also be sown on a warm border, and if there is suffi¬ 
cient space a few rows of Parsley seed should at the 
same time be got in to give a supply of plants for 
planting out in the open later on. Broccoli will now 
be turning in, therefore the plants should be looked 
over daily, and the outside leaves turned over any 
that are exposed to protect them from frost.— 
F. W. 7. 
-. 8 - - 
Strawberries. —Almost up to the period of their 
colouring up fruits the Strawberry plants should 
have weak manure water every other day. For the 
purpose of obtaining a ready supply, I advhe a tank 
or a sunk barrel to be placed in seme near-hand 
convenient corner. This tank or barrel can be kept 
full from the carting to it of the liquid from cow¬ 
sheds, stables, &c. It even pays the cost and labour 
to make a very large covered-in concrete tank in a 
corner of the kitchen garden. Where there is a 
liberal supply of liquid obtainable, a lad with a hand 
water-cart can keep the amount always cleared 
away. 
I always prefer,too, to see that absolutely cold water 
is not used for watering with. If even the chill is 
taken from the water (which should be soft if obtain¬ 
able) it is much better for the onward growth of 
forced Strawberries. A position on a sheff of an 
actively working early Peach house is our present 
position for the Strawberries. Dead leaves should 
carefully be removed and the surface soil may be 
at times stirred up. The clusters of individual 
flowers and swelling fruits should be thinned to 
about ten per plant. The plants should constantly be 
syringed top and bottom after the fruit has set, and 
this is just the period the earliest batch is at now. 
The trusses must be staked or held up to a horizon¬ 
tal level. Unless they are so cared for the chances 
are that they will be injured in one of a few ways. 
To place the trusses up vertically is to detract from 
the vigorous swelling of the berries, A temperature 
suitable to the Peaches has, of course, to be suitable 
also to them. The temperature should not be lower 
than 58° at night, but may rise up to 75" and even 
8o° with sun heat throughout the day. Fresh 
batches should be brought into the warm house at 
intervals of a fortnight. 
Melons.— The newly potted off young seedlings have 
had very unpropitious weather to start with ; and in a 
good start I reckon the complete success, or other¬ 
wise, of the Melons as fruit producers, lies. Keep the 
young plants, or the second sowing of them, near the 
glass, but free from draughts. The earliesLplauts 
are now becoming nicely established in their perma¬ 
nent quarters. A week of nice, mild weather without 
bright sunshine would do a world of good, and place 
the plants at a safer stage of their career. Quick 
growth and promj t returns, these are the rules to 
hold to, if canker and much unnecessary trouble 
would be avoided. Keep the pits well damped 
down. If a good thickness of fermenting leaves were 
placed below the soil, but over the surface of the 
stage, this will supply a steady rise of moisture. A 
very great deal depends on the hygometric condi¬ 
tions. Keep the troughs filled with ammoniated 
water. The plants should be neatly but loosely tied 
to erect stakes as they grow. Be careful to guard 
against water lodgment around the neck or collar of 
the plants. Where growers wish to be very careful 
in this respect, I might suggest Mr. Pettigrew’s plan 
of fixing a stout encircling collar around the base. 
This keeps off moisture. A night temperature of 70° 
should be maintained, rising higher than this, of 
course, during the day. A flimsy shading will be 
necessary on those occasions when bright sunshine 
bursts forth. By means of very small openings (only 
a brick hole), which are bunged up with a wood 
block, let the necessary supply of fresh air into and 
through the pits. As the air passes over the hot 
water pipes, no harm ever comes from draughts. I 
believe a cons'antly moving air, more especially 
where there is so much moisture and gaseous matter 
afloat, is a sine qua non to the highest success in 
Melon culture. 
Peaches and Nectarines. — It is necessary to go 
over the trees weekly because of their constant 
change in development. Where weakly twigs have 
been carrying perhaps a welcome flower wh eb, un¬ 
fortunately, has failed to set into fruit, it is often 
advisable to cut it out and lay in another branch 
from above or below. By so doing the whole 
strength of the branch will also be drafted to the 
shoot springing from its base. An early and 
constant thinning is necessary in the cases beth of 
swelling young fruits and the growth of leafy shoots. 
Do not tie them in too firmly else this will check, 
rather than aid them. 
Cucumbers.— Old worn-out shoots and bad 
leaves should be removed from the plants which 
have been in active bearing. Whenever the young 
fresh roots show through the soil, a topdressing 
should be given. Soot waterings and an occasional 
J-oz. of sulphate of ammonia in the water will tend 
to keep up a brisk and clean growth. For the 
suppression of red spider, &c., paint the pipes with 
sulphur and lime and then heat them to boiling 
point, the foliage being dry. This excessive heat 
should only be continued for about two hours, and a 
dry still evening should be chosen. Young plants 
may j be planted now in ridges, the soil being well 
warmed before finally putting them out. 
Vines in Pots. —The day temperature for these 
at present may run up to 70 0 ' before fresh 
air is allowed. A change of air, as in 
the case of Melons and all other forced subjects, is 
always to be recommended. The surface soil of the 
young Vines should receive dressings with some sort 
of helpful fertiliser such as Thomson’s or Clay's 
manures, this to be only applied as light dustings 
and to be stirred into the soil. If allowed to remain 
exposed to the open air much of the goodness 
escapes. The laterals must be removed where 
there are too many to fully allow the foliage to 
become inured to light and air, and where bunches 
have set the shoot should be pinched at two leaves 
beyond the said bunch. It is always advisable to 
let the night temperature drop to about 50° as this 
firms up the growth and gives us short-jointed 
wood. 
The midseason vinery should now be started. 
Merely close the house and syringe the rods, for the 
first ten days, after which raise the temperature 5 0 . 
The early house must be attended to as before 
advised in regard to constant damping down, 
syringing, thinning, looking over the shoots with a 
brush and methylated spirits for mealy-bug, and 
very soon the bunches will require to have their 
berries thinned.— J. H. D. 
