488 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
March 81, 1900. 
I NTS FOR MMATEURS. 
Cannas.—Canna roots may now be put into pots. 
Those who have had it in their minds to exhibit this 
lovely and very handsome flowering plant at some of 
the early shows, will have accomplished the prim¬ 
ary operation of pot ting-up some time ago. By suc¬ 
cessive batches any gardener can keep up a supply of 
Cannas for cutting or for ordinary decoration, for a 
period extending from May till November. Such is 
not desirable, however, and like the all the year 
round Chrysanthemums they are " very nice but not 
wanted." Some growers select good eyes on single 
pieces of roots, and first of all start these in trays, 
only surrounding them with leaf mould or dung. 
When they have sent out a number of white roots, 
and are in course of developing blades, they are then 
potted into 5-in. pots. These make nice plants for 
summer planting. A warm house with a moist 
atmosphere should at first be given. 
Lantanas.—These may be started in a warm 
house, and either the young shoots can be taken and 
rooted separately, or a number, by dividing the 
plants. These soon develop into nice bushy little 
plants for edging the summer flower beds. 
Yerbenas.—On no account should a sowing of 
these fine dwarf bedding plants be forgotton. The 
number of favourite varieties is yearly increasing, 
and as we have previously shown, these are advanc¬ 
ing in merit just as most florist’s flowers are. 
V. Miss Wilmott, a rosy-pink variety, is one of the 
best; Mammoth is another new good one ; and La 
Plata and numerous others have fine rich flowers. 
Yiolets.—It is now time to see about selecting 
cuttings or runners for next year's stock. Cuttings 
turn out very well if taken and treated as other 
cuttings are Runners of course save further 
trouble than that of merely selecting and removing 
the best of them when rooted. Old Violet plants in 
frames at the present time should have a thorough 
look over. If it is thought desirable a top-dressing 
may be given around the necks of the plants. Such 
a dressing must needs be light, or a thorough soak¬ 
ing with liquid manure water may be given in the 
forenoon of some balmy day, the lights being kept off 
till the foliage and surface has somewhat dried. The 
leaves, however, should Dot be wetted more than is 
unavoidable. 
Hydrangeas —In the cool greenhouses Hydran¬ 
geas are beginning to push forward their flower buds. 
All that really is necessary in their treatment is 
simply to see that they are well supplied with feed¬ 
ing and water. On no account allow the young 
wood, which they will make, to become drawn or 
weakened from want of light. Those who wish to 
have a batch for forcing next year should put in 
cuttings of the usual shoots. 
Fuchsia —No plants should have cuttings^ taken 
from them after this time. By late cutting we 
impair the old plant, and at the same time do not 
get the same quality in the young stock. Plants 
now rooted from cuttings taken a month or six weeks 
ago, should be potted on in a light compost, the 
shifts being gradual. Do not give them more than 
just enough water to keep the soil moist until the 
roots lay good hold of the fresh soil. After they 
have filled the pots with roots abundance of water 
may be given without harm. The plants must not 
be forced on either by too high a temperature or by 
a superabundance of w ater when they do not want 
it. Old plants may do with a top-dressing instead of 
a re-potting. 
The more confined the roots, the better the 
chances of having a good show of bloom ; and there 
is less risk of drowning from the careless use of the 
water can when the roots are cramped. Under such 
conditions it is necessary to feed with liquid, artifi¬ 
cial and natural manures. Staking, tying, and 
pinching of the plants as heretofore advised, should 
be attended to. Young plants at present in 6in. pots, 
and intended for an early summer display, may be 
grown on for a time in a Fig house or other struc¬ 
ture in which a briskly warm, moist, and growing 
air can be guaranteed. 
Pelargoniums.—The old plants which, during the 
past dull months, have awarded us basketfuls of 
blooms, are now past their vigour. They had better 
be cleared right away, or at least those of them 
which are not likely to return much more display. 
Any which may be left should have the best of care 
and light feeding so as to get their yield as quickly 
as possible. The others may be dried off slowly. 
From them more cuttings may be taken at a later 
date to supply smaller plants for next winter’s use. 
All dead leaves and flower trusses should be re¬ 
moved from the plants which are being kept on. 
Spring Plants —The stock of these plants is 
rapidly comiDg on. The Jonquil Narciss, the 
Polyanthus Narciss, and any amount of the trumpet 
Daffodils, Hyacinths, &c., are already in flower. All 
that they require is seeing to in regard to watering, 
staking, airing and removal of withering matter. 
The Primula flGribunda which has lasted so well is 
now giving out. In its place comes P. verticillata. 
By-the-bye I see there is a cross between these two 
fine greenhouse Primulas. I speak of P. verticillata 
as a greenhouse species, because it is hardly 
robust enough to succeed properly out of doors in 
any but very favourable positions. That it can be 
gronn out of doers is, however, fairly common know¬ 
ledge. 
Hippeastrums are likewise in fairly strong array. 
It requires some forethought to have these good and 
in quantity at the present time. The blooms last 
longer if the bulbs are kept supplied with clean 
water only. During the expansion or previous 
development of the blooms, weak liquid manure 
should be given. Spiraeas demand a constant 
supply of the “ liquid life.” Azaleas, Cyclamen, 
Acacia, Cinerarias, Eriostemons, Roses, Eupator- 
iums, &c., are all in bloom in the flower house. 
Heliotropium.—Plants of this in 5 in. and 6 in. 
pots are at all times well worth the labour they cost 
to have; that is, good plants of their kind. It is 
necessary to take cuttings early in summer to be able 
to have good plants for flowering the following 
spring. The plants in flower now should be kept in 
as cool a house as possible. Those not yet flowered 
may be brought on in a warm temperature, thence 
taken to a cooler place for the production of firm 
wood, which may either be pruned back and the 
cuttings used. 
Marguerites.—In the frames are many nice young 
plants, but it is an easy matter to see “ the nice 
young plants ” disappear. A great many are lost 
every year through being placed in too cold and 
damp a place. They are by no means tender, yet 
the Paris Daises are susceptible to detrimental as 
well as to amenable conditions of temperature. 
They are rather easily drowned, so that while yet 
young and not very firmly rooted it is well to take 
good ca r e of them. Older plants must be looked 
over and syringed with paraffin water, unless they 
are in flower, to prevent the composite-leaf miner 
fly from laying her eggs. 
Carnations.—Cool conditions are necessary for 
both the tree and the Malmaison Carnations. 
Neither do they appreciate more moisture than they 
actually are able to absorb, which is very little at 
this period. 
Lawns.—The treatment of lawns in the early part 
of the season more or less determines their quality 
throughout the summer. Dry weather so soon 
comes upon us that unless we have been busy when 
the season was still young (such as at this time), the 
lawns are burned up and retrograde before many 
weeks go by. What can be done now is to roll them 
hard. There is a goodly amount of moisture in the 
soil now, and the fresh and growing grass makes a 
loose bed for itself in a very short time. The roots 
are compressed and the sward consolidated by timely 
rolling, sweeping, and cutting. A dressing of ferti¬ 
liser, soot, or very fine soil may also be given. Soon 
they may be gone over with a scythe. 
Aspidistra lurida Yariegata..—Now is the time 
to divide old plants of this very common but greatly 
appreciated ornamental foliage plant. A compost 
consisting of good fibrous loam, some lime rubble, 
sand, and leaf mould, should be prepared. Pieces of 
the rhizome may be cut or broken off and carefully 
potted up. After potting, water with tepid water and 
allow the plants a warm house with a steamy atmo¬ 
sphere for about a fortaight. After that time inure 
them to the usual cool conditions. Such a course of 
procedure is not absolutely necessary, but for the 
quick and safe establishing of the plant, it is advis¬ 
able. If the common green-leaved form, the true 
A. lurida, is to be potted, a rich soil should be given, 
and feeding is desirable so as to increase the depth of 
green colour. The variegated form comes whitest 
when nearly starved. 
Boronia megastigma —So sweet-smelling a plant 
as this requires to be known among all lovers of 
flowers. Its flowers form little or no attraction, yet 
the plant is very graceful and free flowering. It is 
commonly shown at London and other exhibitions, 
yet there are many gardens in which it finds no 
place. It is notorious that the same things are seen 
and grown incessantly and without change year 
alter year in many private places, and if good plants 
such as this are absent from the general collection, 
they may be known, but rarely or never are they 
bought. A few plants are powerful enough to scent 
a wide portion of any conservatory in which they 
may be staged. 
Tussilago Farfara.—This common wilding with 
the golden flowers is now in full blaze. Any waste 
bank where the soil is heavy should be planted up 
with some such subject.— Beacon. 
Correspondence. 
Questions ashed by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening will be answered on this page. 
A nyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
"Amateurs' Page " on the top of their letters. 
Peas: Gladiator and Fillbasket.— H. Maldrett : 
Fillbasket was raised by Messrs. Laxton Bros, of 
Bedford, and received a First-class Certificate in 
the year 1872. Gladiator was raised by Messrs. J. 
Veitch & Sons, Chelsea,S.W , and received a F.C.C. 
in 1882, or ten years later. They both resemble 
each other in many respects, but differences will be 
found on close comparison. Both of the varieties 
are used for midseason supply. The fact that the 
committee of the R.H.S. awarded a F.C.C. to 
Gladiator ten years after Fillbasket has been in com¬ 
merce is sufficient to prove that there are distinc¬ 
tions. The fact remains, however, that the older 
variety is the most popular, and is included in all 
seed catalogues. So much cannot be said for 
Gladiator. 
Ornamental Kales.— J. R. T. : We do not 
know from what source you could get a supply of 
seeds unless perhaps from MM. Vilmorin-Andrieux 
& Cie., 4, Quai de la Megisserie, Paris. Probably 
some of the Edinburgh seed houses could put you in 
the way of getting what you want. Miss Hope, late 
of Wardie, exhibited a very complete collection of 
the hardy ornamental Kales at one of the Edinburgh 
shows a year or two ago. MM. Vilmorin-Andrieux, 
of Paris, author of “The Vegetable Garden,” 
describes and figures most of the varieties of Kales. 
None of our English seedsmen's catalogues appear 
to enumerate ornamental Kales. 
Prunus triloba .—A. S. S.: This early flowering 
shrub by budding or grafting on a tall Plum stock 
furnishes fine plants for forcing. It does well in 
pots, a yearly pruning and top dressing alone being 
needful. You will distinguish it when more fully 
developed from its having three-lobed leaves. 
Almond, Cherries, Plums, Peaches and Nectarines, 
are all species of Prunus. 
Dendrobium brymerianum.— W.Toole: We have 
not experienced any extra difficulty in the growing of 
this handsome species. It requires a warm house 
and. moist atmosphere throughout the growing 
season. During the early winter months it should 
be rested, starting it again just after the new jear. 
It can be grown side by side with D. chrysanthum, 
D. crassinode, and others. 
Pruning Ivy and Roses.— A. W. S.: The former 
should be pruned or cut in with shears at the begin¬ 
ning of April; the Roses should be pruned about the 
first week in April 
Cyclamens not Moving.— Alex. McK .: Place them 
in an intermediate temperature (58° min., 65° max ). 
Slightly dew them over occasionally, and after 
sponging the foliage and seeing that soil and drainage 
is good, be very careful in watering. Place on a 
light shelf. 
Aucubas for Berrying.— W. Withers: The plants 
will soon be in flower, and as they are dioecious 
(males and females quite distinct), you should pro- 
