636 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
April 21, 1900. 
fflNTS FOR UmATEURS. 
Crown Imperials.—The true Crown Imperial is 
that tall herbaceous " Lily," botanically named 
Fritillaria imperialis. There are numerous dwarf 
and medium-sized Fritillaries some of which are 
very beautiful. F. aurea is one of the smallest and 
one of the prettiest. Crown Imperials are favourites 
with the cottager and with the lords. What history 
and associations are attached to them we need not 
trouble to detail here. It is briefly a notice of their 
cosmopolitan phases of position and treatment, in. 
all of which they seem to succeed, that the present 
lines are written. One sees them in shady borders 
growing tall and strong; in sun-warmed stretches 
they also are in their element, and wherever the soil 
is rich enough and in good heart, there may Crown 
Imperials be planted, and the incumbent anxiety 
which so often attends the selection and placing-out 
of fine plants by amateurs in their gardens is seldom 
felt for the success of these. A deep, rich staple 
brings out their fullest proportions. They bloom in 
spring ; their flowers lasting for fully a month, given 
favourable weather. 
The flowers are very interesting besides being 
handsome and attractive. If their drooping 
chalices are lifted up, a bead of pellucid moisture 
will be found glistening at the base of each petal. 
When the flowers are fading or just past their full 
flush of maturity these drops disappear, but at the 
bases of the petals are found white spots or blotches 
known among country folks as "toad’s tears." 
Owing to the pungency of odour imparted by the 
Crown Imperials they are not usable in dwelling- 
rooms. Clumps of half or a whole dozen, should 
be planted together. In beds by themselves at the 
edge of lawns or shrubberies they are highly 
desirable. 
Chionodoxa Luciliae sardensis.—The Glory of 
the Snow has found its way to all gardens, and is 
quite as much a glory to the rich brown earth as it 
was upon that white alpine mountain when first 
seen by the discoverer. The specific form, C. 
Luciliae has a laxer habit of growth, and has a white 
centre giving it a starry caste. The variety 
sardensis is entirely blue, grows closer, and is alto¬ 
gether more effective for massing purposes. The 
blue is deep and clear, yet differs from that of Scilla 
sibirica, which gives us another spring gem, in being 
of a brighter dazzle. 
Sweet Peas in Pots.—To have Sweet Peas in 
bloom by the ist of March savours of the pheno¬ 
menal. Yet Sweet Peas can be had at so early a 
date. A month later is still very smart work, and 
those few growers who may try to grow Sweet Peas 
for commerce can get a long price fora few bnnches. 
But apart from their value as a selling commodity, 
while we are deluged with blazes of Azaleas, 
Camellias and types of the Heath family few of 
which can be used as cut flowers, there is a lack of 
something sweet and fragrant which is of easy 
growth and altogether useful. Roses in pots are 
superb, but then to do them well and to grow them 
in sufficient quantity demands more from the 
amateur than we know the amateur to be able to 
give. Zonal Pelargoniums are ever popular 
favourites, still they have been blooming all the 
winter and with the Primulas have been used for 
ornamentation times and again during the winter. 
It is now too late to sow in pots. Those who made 
their sowing when previously advised in these 
columns will now have plants which will be in need of 
staking. Train them to pillars or to rafters; they 
will do well in such positions. Feeding should be 
resorted to when the first display of blooms has 
been got. An autumn sowing yields the earliest 
return of blooms in spring. 
Daffodils and other Bulbs in the Grass.— 
Nothing more truly represents typical English gar¬ 
dening than those dells, knolls and meadows which 
are covered with a selection of flowering bulbous 
plants. First come the Crocuses and Snowdrops 
and they bloom at a time when the grass is not long 
enough to hide, or overwhelm them. Then the 
Chionodoxas and Scillas keep time with the earliest 
Primroses and Cyclamen. The Narcissi or Daffodils 
begin to come into bloom close upon the first glow 
of the above named, and from the time the fore¬ 
runners appear until the last of them withers and 
disappears some of our well ordered gardens are like 
little regions of fairy blessedness. It is really a 
charming sight to see a rising knoll, no less than a 
far stretching dip of riverside margin, crowded with 
Daffodils nodding their heads in “ sprightly dance ” 
and truly appearing " a jocund company." 
Bulbs now-a-days can be bought fora song, plenty 
of them being perfect, for naturalising in such a way 
as I have just been noting. 
The Star Cinerarias.—Though to me these appear 
most welcome and very serviceable greenhouse 
plants, it is remarkable how very few gardeners 
even know at all about the race. They are slowly 
making headway and in a year or two we shall ex¬ 
pect to see a batch of them in all gardens. They 
can be used for a variety of purposes. One of the 
chief merits in the eyes of many is that the flower 
heads can be cut and used in vases. We can hardly 
do this with the dwarf greenhouse strains of Ciner¬ 
arias Cineraria stellata (or Star) was sent out a 
few years ago by Messrs. Sutton and Sons. They 
are in the pink of perfection at this time of the year. 
It is better to stage them on the ground floor be¬ 
cause of their great height. This indeed may be an 
objection with some cultivators. Still, we hope all 
will give them a trial! 
Sowing Annuals.—Most of the hardy annuals can 
now be safely deposited in the ground. Those which 
may have been held over till now embrace Bartonias, 
Calendula, Calliopsis, Gaillardias, Abronia, Alonsoa, 
Clarkias, and things of this kind. 
Carnations.—Those who wish to raise Carnations 
from seeds may do so by a sowing at this time. 
Additional sowings should be made as required right 
on throughout the summer. Real good soil must 
alone be employed. It should be sweet, porous and 
rich, but above all it should be free from wireworms. 
The soil may be warmed to a high temperature, or 
boiling water may be passed over it. Wireworms 
are difficult to exterminate. Hard rolling sometimes 
has the desired effect. A compost for Carnations 
should consist of three parts of good fibrous loam, 
one part of cow dung, and one of leaf mould, with 
some charcoal and sharp sand. Good drainage is 
another essential. Prick off the seedlings whenever 
they are fit to handle, and place the pots in a cool 
shaded pit having a temperature of about 55 0 . 
Cyclamen.—Plants which have been flowered this 
last winter for the first time and which are to be 
grown on to maturity for another season, should, 
from now, be gradually rested. I do not believe in 
very severe drying off. The finest plants are got by 
simply gradually diminishing the water supply until 
the plant is almost in a dormant state. It must 
never be entirely inactive all the same, for if so the 
same size and vigour of plant never can be attained. 
Rest them only for a period of from four to six 
weeks, after which gently coax them to increased 
growth. Any flowers which appear should be 
nipped out until well on in the autumn. 
Young plants for next winter’s show are mostly 
now in 3-in. pots. Keep them clean, be careful in 
the watering, ventilate cautiously to prevent checks 
to growth or the generating of a blight, and on any 
bright occasions slightly shade the young plants. 
Dahlias.—Young plants in thumb pots must be 
shaded from strong sunshine. We have not had 
much of this so far but still vigilance ought to be 
exercised. A warm, growing, moist atmosphere 
should be maintained for the benefit of the Dahlias. 
Do not so cultivate that weak and spindly plants 
result. Firm, short-jointed plants are always 
preferred. 
Pansies and Yiolas.—Violas which are supposed 
to be somewhat hardier than Pansies are already 
being put out into their summer flowering quarters. 
In the southern counties, March is the month for 
planting out Violas; but in the northern counties of 
England and Scotland they may safely be put out in 
April. Pansies are not so vigorous in some cases, 
particularly the show varieties, so that they may be 
sheltered for some, time yet in the frames. 
Gladioli.—Having prepared good, rich beds or 
borders in a sunny position, planting of these very 
handsome Iridaceous garden decorators may now be 
undertaken. A depth of 4 in. beneath the surface is 
quite enough on any kind of soil. If the soil is very 
heavy a less depth will do well. Place some sand 
and charcoal around the base of the corm when 
planting. A disiance of 15 in. or 18 in. apart in the 
rows may be allowed. 
Miscellaneous Work. —Petunias which are grown 
on for autumn flowering in pots must now be 
shifted into 4-in, size. They do not like to be root- 
bound. Pinch and stake them as they develop. A 
nice frame carefully ventilated and shaded may be 
accorded to them. Ten-week Stocks should be 
sown in boxes. All bedding stuff should be inured 
to as much of the weather as it is safe to expose 
them to.— Beacon. 
«t» -- 
Correspondence. 
Questions asked by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening will be answered on this page. 
A nyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
"Amateurs' Page " on the top of their letters. 
Dwarf-coloured shrub.— M. Todd : For a corner 
strip of land we would recommend the dwarf purple¬ 
leaved Mahonia, named Berberis Aquifolium 
purpureum. This plant succeeds often in exposed 
positions. It likes a good stiff soil. For cutting to 
supply decorators with material, some growers are 
able to obtain a good return for shoots of this plant. 
As a close growing covert plant, it is also one of the 
best. 
Callas not flowering.— W. Miller : Sometimes 
these go profusely to leaves and stems, but patience 
is needed, as good blooms may yet be thrown up. 
Starving will not produce flowers, and high feeding 
is not often necessary. If the plants are too thick in 
the pots or tubs shake them out when growth has 
finished, repotting only the strongest crowns. 
Greenhouse Rhododendrons.— W. McM.: You may 
train your plants into almost any form you fancy if 
you but take time and care. We think that natur¬ 
ally grown seedlings are the most graceful style of 
Rhododendrons there is. When you get hold of 
such as R. veitchianum, R. Lady Fitzwllliaro, and 
those of the large pure white bell-flowered type, few 
things are handsomer for spring decorations. 
Certainly you should try to cross the hardy varieties 
with those of the greenhouse section. We have 
heard that a cross cannot be effected. Such, how¬ 
ever, should not be impossible. 
Wall Plants .—Rusticus ;—The finer kinds of wire 
netting may be loosely " bagged ’’ against the wall 
to be stuffed with good loam and leaf mould. The 
plants can be planted on the perpendicular surface 
of this wall garden. Such plants as Saxifraga 
longifolia, Ramondia pyrenaica, Sedum tabulae- 
forme, Echeveria secunda glauca, and all flat¬ 
growing, leaf-spreading plants which often do 
better growing from a perpendicular surface 
than they do on the level soil, may be used. 
Aubrietias, Arabis, Alyssum saxatile, Phlox subulata, 
Primulas, Ericas, Veronica Hectori, Saxifragas, in 
some variety, Funkias, Hepaticas, Iberis, Forget- 
me-nots, Violas, and other things we have known to 
succeed growing from a perpendicular surface. 
Ferns for a Fern-case.— L. F.: Good drainage is 
the most important item to successful culture with 
Ferns in small cases. They are planted out in a 
soil which has every chance to become sour and 
nasty, unless the water which one applies is able to 
freely pass away. The compost itself should be a 
good fibrous loam, having a quantity of leaf mould 
and sand in it. Only dwarf and comparatively 
hardy Ferns should be chosen. The following are 
good types :—Pteris cretica, P. argyrea, P. serrulata, 
and P. s. cristata, Adiantum Capillus-Veneris, and 
its variety imbricatum, Polypodium vulgare 
omnilacerum, Trichomanes radicans, Athyrium 
Filix-foemina crispum, Asplenium fontanum, Scolo- 
pendrium Baxterii, and Polystichum angulare. 
Tomatos Weakly and Spotted.— H. Nelson: 
Weakly plants generally result from an over-crowd¬ 
ing in the young stages, too high a temperature plus 
an over-abundance of nourishment or moisture. 
Disease or " blights ’’ naturally follow upon and 
attacks a delicate constitution. Failing the actual 
inspection of your plants we can only advise you to 
maintain a temperature not exceeding 55 0 by night 
or 62° by day. Keep the plants on the dry side till 
they harden up a bit. Only top dress or feed them 
when it is seen that they are failing in their vigour. 
If the leaf-spotting shows signs of spreading, let us 
have a portion for inspection. 
