April 21, 1900. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
537 
Primula Sieboldii.— W. D.: No dwarf plants are 
more worthy of cultivation than are these pretty 
Primroses. The varieties are even handsomer and 
finer than the P. obconica strains. Their culture is 
simple, although to develop very fine plants some 
amount of extra attention is necessary. The seeds 
should be sown as soon as they are ripe on the 
surface soil in shallow pans. A medium temperature 
in which to germinate, and a cool house for after 
growth, is what they respond to. Care should be 
taken not to pot the seedlings too deeply; and from 
first to last, allow them good light and freedom. 
P. Sieboldii gives us some very distinct varieties. 
Calla, &c.— A. M. : Richardia africana or Lily of 
the Nile has also the following synonyms : Calla 
Arum, Richardia aethiopica, and Trumpet Lily. 
The first name is correct. Lily of the Nile is the 
most popular appellation. 
Propagating Osmanthus.— J. G.: Cuttings take 
a long time to emit roots even when struck in pots 
in close warm pits. A correspondent of experience 
says Osmanthus grafts successfullv with young 
saplings of the common Ash, Fraxinus excelsior. 
Dressing for Clematis.— J. Williams: Incorporate 
CULTURE OF DENDROBIUMS AT 
LARBERT HOUSE. 
Dendrobium nobile aud Dendrobium wardianum 
are, by reason of their free flowering qualities, com¬ 
bined with the ease in which they can be grown to 
perfection, the two most popular species of 
Orchids in cultivation. Where an incessant demand 
for cut flowers and decorative subjects is in 
request they stand unrivalled, and deservedly so, as 
there is no class of plants that I am acquainted with 
that will repay the cultivator better for any extra 
trouble entailed in their cultivation. Of these two 
species alone we grow nearly 400 plants for decorat¬ 
ing purposes, and perhaps a few words on our mode 
of cultivation might be of some use, at least, to 
those amateurs who are about to start, or have not 
been successful in their cultivation. 
We grew the bulk of our plants in pots and pans, 
and the largest plants are grown in the ordinary 
square Orchid baskets. 1 am bound to say I fail to 
see but little difference in growth either way. The 
variety of D. ncbile I would recommend is the type 
known as the Lang Tang type. There are a great 
variety of shades to be found in a lot of these newly 
imported. I do not favour extra large pieces when 
buying new stock. Plants that have from four to 
shelves, others suspended, and on the stages in a 
teritperature ranging from 70° to 85° during the 
growing season. The atmosphere should never be 
allowed to become arid and dry, or else red spider 
will rapidly appear and do an immense amount of 
mischief; indeed, it frequently attacks the young 
growing shoots of D. wardianum, growing in a 
saturated atmosphere. Whenever it makes its 
appearance it should be immediately sponged off, 
using clean water only. Plenty of water at the 
roots, and the paths and stages frequently damped, 
are the only essentials to their successful cultivation. 
We frequently give our large established plants a 
watering with Kirk’s Vine and Plant Manure, using 
about a teaspoonful to a gallon of water. I know 
this practice does not obtain in many places where 
these are grown ; but the profuse way in which our 
plants bloom abundantly proves the wisdom of 
supplying manurial substances. 
After the plants have finished their growth for the 
season they are taken to a much cooler place. Some 
growers place their plants in a vinery that is finish¬ 
ing off its crop. This I have never done, but, all the 
same, it is an excellent place, were it not for the risk 
of carrying in insects that would prove very trouble¬ 
some. We generally place our plants in a green¬ 
house, gradually drying them off dust dry, but never 
some lime rubble with the soil. Use good loam 
with a quantity of sharp sand added. Plant very 
firmly. A firm soil suits Clematis. As a dressing to 
establish plants place on a goodly layer of old lime 
rubbish. A winter mulching with dung should 
always be given. 
Good Keeping Apples Wanted.— J. Friars : We 
cannot do better than refer you to our report of the 
Drill Hall meeting of April 10th. 
Forced Bulbs.— Mrs. Whithorn: Certainly, if due 
care is taken, as we have often advocated, forced 
bulbs and forced plants of many kinds can be 
matured and well developed afterwards to be planted 
out. The bulbs grown in glasses are not so nice to 
deal with. They can only be put out into the soil 
and left to establish themselves as best they may. 
The pot forced bulbs on the other hand can be 
shifted to cool quarters under glass, and be some¬ 
what dried off before they need be ultimately 
planted. A warm border and well drained rich light 
soil should be given to them. 
Galtonia candicans.— W. S. : The plant you 
refer to as Hyacinthus candicans is now known by 
the above name. Plant now. It is quite hardy. 
Dendrobiums at Larbert House. 
six bulbs are quite large enough, and are most service¬ 
able. They soon make handsome specimens. 
The first thing to do on the arrival of the newly- 
imported plants is to go over them carefully and cut 
out any dead and decaying matter, and sponge with 
soap diluted in tepid water, in case any insects are 
lurking about. Then proceed to hang them up on 
the edge of the stages in the stove, heads down and 
syringe frequently every day until new growths 
spring from the base of the old bulbs. Roots and 
growth generally start simultaneously, and when 
they have grown about 4 in. in length we proceed to 
pot them up in pots according to the size of the 
plants, filling the pots two-thirds full of potsherds. 
Before using the potting material place a stake down 
the centre of the pots; the potsherds will keep the 
stake firmly in position. Tie the previous growths 
to this and proceed to pot; using a mixture of peat 
fibre, sphagnum moss and broken potsherds about 
the size of Peas, This is an excellent rooting 
medium and the young roots soon find their way to 
the edges and fix themselves. I do not believe in 
covering the whole of the surface of the pot with 
sphagnum. Placing the live sphagnum in patches 
and allowing it to grow and spread is the better way. 
We grow our plants in the plant stove, some on 
allowing the bulbs to shrivel, if possible. I find it a 
good plan at this stage to tie the growth of D. 
wardianum in an upright position. I think a longer 
spike of bloom can be had than when allowed to 
hang down. I prefer to grow the later species in 
baskets, suspended from the roof. This species is 
deciduous, and flowers on the previous year's 
growth. 
Dend. nobile is partly evergreen, and flowers on 
the two-year old growth, although sometimes, if the 
plants are over dried, they will flower on the current 
year’s growths. This is most injurious to their well¬ 
being, and should be carefully avoided .—David 
Airdrie, The Gardens, Larbert House, Stirlingshire. 
[The accompanying photograph shows three plants 
of Dendrobium nobile, with a plant of Lycaste 
Skinneri in front, merely to fill a gap between the 
Dendrobes. Mr. Airdrie has about three dozen pans 
and baskets of a similar size, and equally profusely 
flowered, besides many smaller pieces. They prove 
of much service at Larbert House, where flowers of 
various kinds are required. Mr. Airdrie is also a 
well known Chrysanthemum and Grape grower, 
having some well stocked vineries, the Vines bearing 
bunches of exhibition size that have made their 
presence felt at many a show.—Ed.] 
