550 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
April 28, 1900. 
Chrysanthemum Rust is making American growers 
st’r themselves at this time. “ The exact species of 
the fungus that produces the rust is not determined, 
nor is it of great consequence to us how long and 
crooked its name, if we can only fight it success¬ 
fully,” is what they say. 
Japanese “ Fern-balls.”—Americans import from 
Japan a large amount of what they term "Fern- 
balls.” These are basket Ferns, chiefly or wholly 
Davallias, whose rhizomes have twined around to 
form a dense ball. They are transported in a dor¬ 
mant condition and frondless. By giving them a 
good steeping in water and a warm, moist, shaded 
house for a short while they very soon re-assert 
themselves, sending forth a host of fronds. 
New York Botanical Gardens.—In the Florists' 
Review for July 26th there is a frontispiece photo of 
the conservatories at the Botanical Gardens of New 
York, U S A. These gardens are prophesised as 
soon to be the pride of all the United States. The 
beautiful grounds extend to 250 acres, and are 
easily accessible. The museum and other offices are 
very fine. The present herbarium contains over 
600,000 specimens, besides some 50,000 unmounted 
specimens intended for exchange. The flora within 
100 miles of New York City is to be grouped by 
itself as a quick method of reference for those in* 
terested. Dr. N. L. Britton, who is the director-ifl- 
chief, is one of the most eminent botanists known. 
BROCCOLI. 
There has not been such destruction among crops 
of Broccoli (and other green crops as well) since the 
long period of severe frost five years ago, as during 
the past season ; but the greatest amount of mischief 
happened at the end of the year, when the ther¬ 
mometer fell to 30° of frost, decreasing to 2q p 
between the hours of 4 p.m. and 8 p.m. The 
weather prior to this had been for some weeks 
excessively mild. The plants, by reason of dry heat 
followed by a period of moisture and mildness, 
rendered vegetation in general very tender and sus¬ 
ceptible of injury. The planting of Broccoli with a 
crowbar or metal pointed dibber into undug solid 
ground renders stiff hardy growth ; and thus the 
resisting power is great from injury by severe frost. 
We notice that Broccoli has been entirely cleared off 
on land which rarely ever failed in producing good~ 
crops. Reports we have from the east and midlands 
of England give unfavourable records this year. It 
is of much importance to learn that some sorts are 
more hardy than others; and some cultivators have 
special sorts which they always cultivate somewhat 
extensively by reason of their hardiness if not of 
best quality ; but better secondary quality than no 
Broccoli. A friend always cultivated the old 
Waterloo, purple sprouting and sulphur varieties. 
If the appearance of these sorts is not in their 
favour— hardiness is—and we know they are not 
despicable when other favourite sorts are nil. It is 
by reason of these sorts standing uninjured this 
sea on that prompts us to write the:e notes.— M. 
Temple, Carron, N.B. 
PANSY CULTURE FOR EXHIBITION 
AND PLEASURE. 
Pansies require a shady situation, a medium loam, 
deeply dug in autumn, plenty of cow-yard manure 
and leaf soil put in bottom of trench to hold 
moisture. Put cuttings in cold frame in October. 
Admit air when favourable. By March they make 
nice plants. Harden off, dipin soft soap and water 
for green fly. Take plants up with a good ba'l of 
soil, plant deeply with some potting soil round the 
roots (t ft. apart). Water and shade. Stake at 
once; tie as growth goes on, leaving three shoots. 
When well growing a little lime hoed among the 
plants is beneficial. Give plenty of water. When 
weather is forcing give a top-dressing of rotten man¬ 
ure, it keeps them moist and also feeds. Diluted 
cow-manure water should be given three times a 
week wiih clear water between, a fertiliser also at 
intervals of a week. Put sulphate of ammonia as 
much as would lay on a half-crowD, and water well in 
round each plant. If for exhibition, pick buds off 
till about three weeks of the show. Shade as soon 
as buds begin to opeD, and they will grow larger and 
of better colour. Or to grow from seed sow in Feb¬ 
ruary in boxes, placed on sheif in vinery. Prick off 
seedlings three inches apart; harden off in cold 
frame; plant out end of April, and treat the same as 
from cuttings. By this culture I have won fourteen 
prizes,including Silver Medal.— Robert Thomas Howell, 
Middle Arton House Gardens, near Oxford. 
--- 
CALLAS. 
Having read in your correspondence column about 
Callas not flowering, I will state the result of an 
experiment I have tried this winter. I have side by 
side plants that have been subjected to different 
treatment. About the end of May the plants are 
stood in their pots out of doors in rather a shady 
position. Water should be gradually withheld as 
the foliage decays till the end of July, then, should 
the weather keep fine a thorough soaking of water 
should be afforded them, and they will soon begin 
to make new growth. The plants should now be re¬ 
potted, as upon examination they will be found to be 
making new roots. The following compost is suit¬ 
able Loam one-third (the loam is very hungry 
here), cow-manure one-third, leaf mould, wood-ashes, 
sand, and a little Peruvian guano, one-third. Mix 
well and pot the strongest into 32's and 48's, making 
the soil rather firm. The plants should be stood in 
a shady position, thoroughly watered in, and then 
water applied as required. They were housed in 
September, and a temperature of 45 0 to 50° main¬ 
tained. These were in flower towards the end of 
October, and are still in flower at the present date 
(22nd April), although they will soon show signs of 
decay. These plants in 32's with two flowers ex¬ 
panded and another showing are more decorative 
for general purposes than a dozen I potted into 16’s 
in October ; although the latter may have larger 
flowers, they do not flower so freely.— C .P. Cretchley. 
--J—- 
HOW TO SAVE POTTING. 
A good many years ago, I found from having a good 
deal of extra work in spring, that on one occasion 
it would be almost impossible to repot my collection 
of greenhouse plants, as was my usual habit. I 
therefore for the sake of economy in time hit on the 
plan of simply removing about an inch of the top¬ 
soil, and sprinkling a good teaspoonful of Thomson’s 
Vine and plant manure, over the roots, that quantity 
being sufficient for plants in 6-in. pots, filling up the 
pot with good soil. The result was most gratifying, 
in fact most of the plants flowered much better than 
usual, and of course the check was so much less that 
they came into flower much earlier. I have there¬ 
fore pursued the plan for many years, with unvaried 
success. I name Thomson’s manure, as I have 
found it answer my purpose better than any other; 
but no doubt other approved manures might do well 
enough. The drainage must be quite free, and the 
plant not in need of a larger pot. For Pelargoniums 
both zonal and regal, my plan gives the best results 
I have ever obtained; the plants are dwarfer, and 
flower much more freely. I give liberal supplies of 
manure water, when the bloom trusses show. I also 
find that Ferns, Camellias, Azaleas, and in fact 
almost every variety of greenhouse plant thrive 
amazingly with this treatment, while stove plants 
seem also to fully appreciate it.— C. Blair, Binny, 
Uphill, N.B. 
Kitcfyen Garden Calendar. 
The warm weather of the past few days has 
caused the small plants of Parsnips, Carrots, Onions, 
and such like to push through the soil. The hoe 
should, therefore, be got to work between the rows 
to keep down small weeds. More good may be done 
with the hoe in an hour when the weeds are small 
than in half a day if allowed to make headway; The 
thinning of such crops should also be taken in hand 
as soon as the plants are large enough to handle. It 
is not advisable to thin too severely at first, particu¬ 
larly if the weather is showery, as slugs are some¬ 
times troublesome at this time of the year. If 
singled out to two inches apart this will enable them 
to grow robust from the first. The early short 
topped varieties of Carrots need not be thinned to a 
greater distance than three inches, as the roots can 
be pulled while small for use. The main crop of 
Carrots may now be sown in drills from fifteen to 
eighteen inches apart, according to the variety. 
Early Pgtatos —As the frames become cleared 
of these, the lights should be utilised for other pur¬ 
poses, such as protecting Dwarf Beans, Vegetable 
Marrow plants, and other tender subjects that it 
will not be safe to expose to the open at present. 
Potatos that are through the soil on the open 
borders must be closely watched that protection may 
be afforded them should there be signs of frost. 
Canvas, small meshed netting, two or three thick¬ 
nesses, or other light material, will usually ward off 
a few degrees. 
Celery.— Plants from the early sowings should 
now be large enough for transplanting in the 
trenches. If the latter are made on ground from 
which the Brussels Sprouts have been cleared off, 
the work may be proceeded with at once. It is, how¬ 
ever, advisable to dig the ground previously to 
taking out the trenches, that the soil between them 
may be in a fit condition for growing another crop, 
such as Dwarf Beans, Lettuce, Radishes, Turnips- 
and the like. It is not a good practice to allow the 
plants to get too large before transplanting, as they 
receive a serious check by having the roots injured. 
If the weather be dry at the time of planting, water 
should be given and shade afforded when the sun is 
bright, till new roots have taken hold of the soil. 
The later batches should be pricked out in a warm 
border where the ground is of a light, rich nature. 
It is a good plan to use some thoroughly decayed 
manure, which should be turned in just below the 
surface, as the plants will root more freely in this, 
and therefore lift with better balls of earth attached. 
As it is sometimes difficult to get the plants trans¬ 
ferred to the trenches just at the time they are ready 
to transplant, it is a good planmot to prick them out 
too closely together, as, by so doing, they are kept 
more sturdy. We usually allow three inches 
from plant to plant when pricking them out, and six 
inches between the rows, by allowing this distance 
the plants may be lifted with good balls to the roots, 
when, if catefully planted, they will not suffer 
should they be a little overgrown. 
Beet Root. —The seed of this for the main crop 
should now be sawn, choosing land that was man¬ 
ured either in the autumn or for a previous crop, as 
fresh manure has a tendency to cause the roots to 
grow coarse. The drills ought to be not less than 
fifteen inches apart, if eighteen so much the better, 
as the roots will then have a better chance of de¬ 
veloping themselves. But, to be of first-class 
quality, they should be close grained, and of a deep 
red colour. If a good variety be obtained, such as 
Blood Red, Dell's Crimson, and Pagnell's Exhibi¬ 
tion, there is little fear of them being overgrown and 
coarse if treated in the manner described. One im¬ 
portant point is to thin early, that the plants may 
grow robust from the first. 
Dwarf Beans.—A sowing of these may now be 
made on a warm border where protection can be 
afforded in case of frost when the young plants 
make their appearance. Choose one of the early 
varieties for the first sowing, as these will turn in 
more readily than the later ones, such as Canadian 
Wonder, for example. A row of Runner Beans may 
also he sown, but special care must be taken to 
protect the young plants at night, or they will be 
sure to suffer. Runners grow quickly when once 
through the soil if the weather is favour¬ 
able, therefore it is not advisable to sow too soon 
where spring frosts are prevalent, as the plants 
would require supports before it was safe to leave 
them unprotected at night. Sticks should always 
be put to them before the growths get entangled, or 
there is much difficulty afterwards in inducing them 
to take to the stakes.— F. W.J. 
FRUIT UNDER GLASS. 
The weather is such as to try our patience, and 
certainly our skill. But we are accustomed to 
weather changes, so that what is to come will have 
to be reckoned with. 
Vines. —Those with a number of vineries will be 
employed with many various cultural duties attached 
to this ancient and valued fruiting plant, according 
to the stage to which the Vines have advanced. In 
the earliest houses grapes are about to be cut. 
Other early houses have bunches of lruit beginning 
to show colour. Successive crops are in the " finger¬ 
nail ” stage, or in flower. There are certain pre¬ 
rogatives applicable to the treatment of Vines in 
vigorous growth. These are, that moisture be at all 
