552 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
April 28, 1900. 
|JINTS FOR ||MATEURS. 
Cabbage planting —I have a profound respect 
for Brassica oleracea capitata. Who could not 
respect anything with such a name as that ? What 
would the world do without Cabbages or " Greens ” 
of innumerable and unnameable sorts? Some 
folks like to brand their neighbours as “ not 'green,' 
by very Cabbage-like.” What would these do with¬ 
out their means of comparison ? Round about the 
Cabbage there is matter for extended moralisings 
and philosophy. " A little nonsense now and then 
is relished by the wisest men,” but apart from 
banter, there is evidence year by rear that sufficient 
care is not taken when planting Cabbages. It may 
be that the ground is not broken up enough, and an 
improper condition of soil may be blamed ; and also 
the manner by which the roots find life a hard 
matter to maintain, owing to their being squeezed, 
choked, and crimpled all in a heap, and so cause 
failure. Vegetable cramp ought to follow if it doesn't, 
under such root-cramped conditions. Though I now 
specialise the Cabbage, the same remarks apply to 
any soft-wooded young plant similar to a Cabbage, 
and which we plant in a like manner. The rules 
are :—First of all work up as deep and suitable a 
tilth as you can. From " Hints " in bygone weeks, 
what a suitable tilth is, will be known to those who 
follow these columns. Secondly, the choosing of a 
suitable condition of soil. The mechanical texture 
of the soil should be mellow, that is, freely workable, 
damp, without being adhesive, and of course the 
warmer it is so much the better. For this reason I 
seldom recommend very early planting. And 
thirdly, a proper method of insertion. Insertion 
here means that an opening of dimensions, wide and 
deep enough to allow the Cabbage or other plant 
rcots to spread unconfinedly, should be made. A 
trowel will always be found the best instrument, 
because by its employment any hard lumps can be 
broken to pieces, and in cases where the soil may 
have become somewhat consolidated the use of a 
dibble implies a vertical opening with restricted 
circumference. Prevention is better than cure. 
When planting Cabbages to prevent possible attacks 
from the Gall fly, dip the roots in a mixture of soot, 
lime, and clay, made fluid by a proper addition of 
water. Waterings with thick sooty water also go a 
long way as a preventive measure. 
Mending flower pots.—To mend large pots, 
there are several means one can try. With pliable 
wire, a hammer and pinchers, large pots, which are 
cracked or even broken (provided it is not a 
“compound fracture”) can be remedied. Invert 
the pot, mouth downward, place the wire around the 
middle part of the pot, give it a twist, making sure 
that you leave only enough loose to allow of the 
band being knocked down to the under edge of the 
rim, where it should perform the duty of a tightly 
encircling hoop. The ends can be twisted once or 
twice and then cut off. To knock the wire belt 
down, place the side of the hammer-head against 
the surface of the pot, and sharply dump it dowr. 
A method of stitching can also be undertaken. Bore 
narrow holes through the pot on either side of the 
crack. Through each of these slip an end of the 
wire and draw the two ends tightly together by the 
same means which are specified above. Where pots 
are becoming too small, even though they are the 
largest pots obtainable, tubs and barrels may be 
prepared. 
Fences.—The form, more than almost any other 
point,should be weightily considered before any pro¬ 
posed boundary guard is erected. I have been 
tempted to say this because of so many positively 
ugly fences, which may be seen at different places, 
and aho from the fact of recently haviDg seen a 
sweet little guard around a none too pretty garden. 
The fence was of wood, and constructed on the 
lattice or angled system. It was strong and well 
put together, yet had an appearance of great light¬ 
ness, for it was painted a rarely seen blush colour. 
Here, colour certainly ought to be taken account of 
qui e as much as form. This blush colour was cer¬ 
tainly sweet and very cheery, nor did it look out of 
character, though I am afraid it would become dull 
and smutty in a limited period. If we could con¬ 
ceive how great an influence these manifold little 
things have upon us, and upon communities, without 
doubt we would mere urgently think out and 
determine upon our every plan. 
Primroses and Auriculas.—That the present is the 
heyday of Primrose glory, is evident in one or two 
ways. The young men, lads, and lasses are daily 
decked with large bunches of the common wild Prim¬ 
rose. Then take a meander through the rock- 
garden. Here and there and all about, one views the 
beautiful shy-flowering forms, at least some are shy. 
Others sparkle over the open brow of the banks and 
give us high-souled joy. They are the conspicuous 
and robust members. This week there have been 
special shows in London and Birmingham, held by 
the society of lovers of these plants. These things 
point to the new life and charm which have opened 
out, even though we yet see great drowsiness in 
Nature. About the Primulas themselves I have 
nothing further to add to what I have previously 
said. Primroses are pretty flowers and of easy 
culture. 
Ornamental Trees and Shrubs.—It is now getting 
past the time to write much of the planting of these 
garden subjects. Shrubberies are necessities to all 
sorts of gardens, and whenever possible I think we 
should have collections of the lesser known, though 
none the less beautiful shrubs. The lesser known 
are, in fact, often very handsome, though possibly 
more fastidious. In every part of the land the same 
popular dozen of shrubs is seen, and still we plant 
brothers beside brothers, leaving the selection of the 
meritoiious but lesser known sorts to remain in 
ignominy. Keep a look-out during the coming 
summer for shrubs of beauty which you do not 
possess, and try to add these kinds to your own 
garden in the autumn. Shrubs should now at latest 
be pruned. Plants of the golden and cut-leaved 
Elder should be lifted from nursery beds and placed 
into vases for the ornamentation of parapets, 
pedestals or other prominent places in ihe garden. 
Negundo aceroides variegatum,which grows strongly 
in pots, may be placed out-of-doors in May. A bed 
of half standard Negundos, with Lobelia Queen 
Victoria or L. cardinalis planted to form colour 
below the white leaves of the shrub, furnishes a 
most charming sight. For a later contrast Salvia 
splendens grandiflora should be used in place of the 
Lobelias. This Salvia comes into full bloom about 
September, Bright-leaved Aucubas for window 
boxes might often be used. Nice little plants iu 
5 in. aod 6 in. pots can be bought for a shilling 
apiece. It pays to buy a few of these, for with 
ordinary care they will live and flourish even in 
thickly populated districts. When they get dusty 
and dirty a vigorous syringing is all they need to once 
again refresh them. In combination with them most 
kinds of flowering plants contrast or agree in har¬ 
mony. Nothing is finer than a well berried Aucuba 
for a dwelling room. The plants bear scarlet 
berries, bur unless those who have plants both male 
and female of the Aucuba (and these are found 
separately) there can be no fruits, from the fact of 
non-fertilisation. A very handsome tree for almost 
anywhere is the Chili Pine, Araucaria imbricata. 
Avenues of this noble tree are exceedingly handsome. 
But even as a small lawn tree it is ornamental. It 
grows slowly. 
Flower Garden.—Plant Violas and Pansies. 
Plant also Hops for covering arches or fences. Gail- 
lardias and Pyrethrums must also be got in. 
Dahlias may be potted on and placed in a moderately 
cool house. Sweet Peas in pots may be pinched as 
an experiment to secure bushy plants. The bulk, 
however, should be allowed to grow on Carnations, 
Pinks, perennial Sunflowers, autumn flowering 
Phloxes, Hollyhocks, Achilleas, Delphiniums, double 
Daisies, Sweet Williams, Geums, and other hardy 
and half-hardy plants may be planted out. Violet 
layers should be taken and planted for next season’s 
growth. Ornamental grasses should be sown. 
Fruit Garden.—Protect fruit trees from frost and 
wiods, else the flower buds just now bursting may be 
irredeemably spoilt. Melons in pits and warm 
bouses should be constantly watched. Keep water 
away from the base of the stem, thin out superfluous 
growths, and pinch the shoots two leaves beyond 
where fruits are set. 
1'bin out the crops of Peaches when too heavy. 
Also thin the bunches of Muscat and black Grapes. 
To prevent or eradicate red spider on Vines, coat the 
hot-water pipes with a paint composed of flowers of 
sulphur, soot, and soft soap dissolved in hot water. 
For mealy bug apply a drop of methylated spirit upon 
the insect by means of a camel's-hair brush. Straw¬ 
berries beiDg forced should be fed with weak manorial 
water. Thin the trusses of fruit to about ten fruits 
per plant. Late planted young Apple trees should 
have their shoots pruned back. The buds toward 
the extremity of the shoots will not develop well, 
thus the pruning. The strength is also thrown 
back for the pushing forth of the basal buds. 
The Greenhouse.—Pot off well rooted Pelar¬ 
gonium cuttings. Pinch any which are running up 
too strongly. Start Gladioli in the greenhouse for 
planting out next month. 
Tree Carnations must be neatly staked. Mal- 
maisons should have a little feeding. Keep them 
cocl. Amaryllis may be watered with guano water 
whenever the flower spikes appear.— Beacon. 
-- 
Correspondence. 
Questions ashed by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening will be answered on this page. 
A nyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
" Amateurs' Page " on the top of their letters. 
Anthuriums for a small stove.— Wilson-Bell .: 
If you have a moderate amount of leisure and a 
good stove you ought to succeed in growing and 
flowering Anthuriums. You can purchase young 
plants from any well-known nursery firm. They 
enjoy thorough drainage, and should have a compost 
of fibrous loam and peat, charcoal, sphagnum, and 
broken crocks. They enjoy also a goodly supply of 
water, and like a soft syringing, twice a day all 
through the summer months. A moist atmosphere 
must be maintained, the temperature ranging from 
6o” to 70°. Shade from bright sun. You could not 
do better than grow Anthurium scherzerianum, A. s. 
Wardii, A s. Knightii, and A. rothschildianum. 
Ganna Seeds.— J. Strong. : It is high time the 
seeds were sown unless you wish a late batch. 
Steep the seeds in very warm water (even up to 130°) 
for a period of twenty-four hours. The water, of 
course, would not be so hot all that while. Or a 
slight notch may be made in the seed-coat to allowthe 
water a speedier entrance. Sow either in pans, or, 
better still, singly in small pots, at a depth of ins. 
Place the pots in a warm, moist pit. 
Culture and Propagation of Nephrolepis.— 
IV. IV.: Nephrolepis is increased most frequently 
by dividing the matured plants. Or they can be 
propagated by pegging down some of the creeping 
stems which spring out from the base. 
Their culture is very simple. A yearly potting, 
and, in some cases, only a top-dressing enables them 
to grow and maintain health till the next spring. 
They, like many other Ferns, must have plenty of 
water, a warm temperature of from 65° to 70° with 
moisture in the air. Gravelled stages in a shady 
stove suits them well. The following are very 
handsome:—Nephto'epis davallioides furcans, N. 
plumosa, N. Bausei, N. exaltata, and N. rufescens. 
Book on Coniferae .—Young Gardener. : A. D. 
Webster's “ Hardy Coniferous Trees,” recently 
published by Messrs. Hutchison & Co., 34, Pater¬ 
noster Row, E.C., price 3s. 6d., should answer your 
purpose. More expensive works include Veitch’s 
“Manual of the Coniferae,” and Master's "List of 
Conifers and Taxads.” 
Sparrow Traps.— M. T. S. : We quite appreciate 
what you say. You will find the traps which Messrs. 
Gilbertson and Page, game-food manufacturers, of 
Hereford, make to be neat, and effective in securing 
many sparrows. There are also scares (Clive’s 
scares) which might be bought. A sundriesman 
might be able to get them. “Clive’s scares” are 
made of tin, and represent hawks. You would re¬ 
quire to stretch them on springs between trees, and 
to shift them repeatedly. 
Woolly aphis and Gooseberry Sawfly.— Idem. : 
Syringe the shoots attacked by the aphis (American 
Blight) with a solution of quassia, paraffin ; and the 
soft-soap emulsion used in small amount among hot 
water, also destroys many of the insects. A paint 
of soot, lime, soft-soap and clay, mixed up in warm 
water and then smeared over the affected parts, we 
have found to be of much service. For the Goose¬ 
berry Sawfly, dust the bushes with soot on dewy 
