fliE GARDENING WORLD 
598 
May 19, 1900. 
ALL AMONG THE WOODS AND 
MEADS, 
After a prolonged spell cf cold dull weather, which 
if it did not retard the advent of the cuckoo with its 
jaring, discordant, although welcome notes, certainly 
did the opening of our native spring flowers, among 
them being the Cuckoo Flower, Cardamine pratensis. 
To see this in its glory, interspersed in a woodland 
with either the common Primrose or the Wood 
Hyacinth, Scilla nutans, is one of the most pleasing 
sights to be met with in a country ramble, and an 
example of nature's spring bedding on a large scale, 
which might more easily be envied than imitated. 
Then again there is the Wood Anemone, often in 
company with the Pilewort. Among the latest there 
may often be marked wide divergencies, awakening 
the thought that possibly this much abused plant 
may be taken in hand by someone, and widely 
different types may be evolved from it. I pass on 
by a pond covered with Ranunculus aquatilis, and 
exlaim, " Can anything be more beautiful ? ” Then 
standing out from the hedge rows I see bushes of the 
Sloe. Do any of the Spiraeas imported from afar 
present objects of more real beauty than some of 
these ? The Hawthorn is decidedly very late this 
season, not quite so late as once within my memory, 
but for a special reason, I think, later than for 
some thirty-five years or so, but alas ! as one gets on, 
memory will play tricks, so I cannot feel absolutely 
sure about it. Then the ever-blooming Furze is now 
in the zenith of its glory. I came across some of the 
double-flowered form by the road side recently, and 
could but regret that this fine old plant seems to be 
neglected by planters, compared with what it used to 
be. Of course, I take it that these had been 
planted.— W. B. G. 
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ORCHID NOTES & GLEANINGS. 
By the Editor. 
Odontoglossumsfrom Ravenswood.Melrose. 
-—We are in receipt of a branching spike of Odonto- 
glossutn polyxanthum from Mr. William Yea, gar¬ 
dener to Lady Fairfax, Ravenswood, Melrose, N B. 
The spike is 30 in. long, and carries twenty flowers, 
of which the lowermost six are borne on three 
branches. Both on the branches and on the main 
axis the flowers are of the first size for the species 
and handsomely coloured. There are several large i 
dark chocolate blotches on the sepals, and about 
three smaller ones on the base of the petals, the 
ground colour in both cases being of a bright, rich 
yellow. The lip is of the usual shape and of a rich 
glossy brown with narrow white edges; the basal 
area is yellow, thus making the two front plates of 
the crest very prominent, as they are white. 
This is certainly the finest spike of O. polyx¬ 
anthum which we have ever seen, even 
although we have seen some very fine things grown 
by Mr. Yea, who is an enthusiastic and successful 
cultivator of Orchids. Accompanying the above is a 
spike of a handsome white variety of O. Pescatorei, 
the flowers of which measure 3J in. or a little more 
across the petals. The whole of the flower is well 
proportioned according to the above measurements, 
so that it really rivals many a first-class form ofO. 
crispum. There were only nine flowers on the spike 
in this case, which may account for the remarkable 
size of the individual blooms. There is a violet 
blotch in front of the golden crest, otherwise the 
flowers are of snowy purity, and reflect great credit 
on the cultivator. Both were carefully packed and 
arrived without a bruise. 
A fine Odontoglossum triumphans.—About 
a year ago Mr. James Whitton, superintendent of the 
Parks Department, Glasgow, procured some cases 
of imported Odontoglossum crispum, the plants of 
which are now expanding their flowers from day to 
day. One specimen hitherto has proved entirely 
different from the rest, and Mr. W. Mclver, the 
foreman at the Camphill Nursery Gardens, sent us 
a bloom, which proves to be a magnificent variety of 
O triumphans. The sepals and petals measure close 
upon an inch across the middle, the petals being 
slightly the broader. They have a large crimson 
blotch about the middle with a golden tip, while all 
the lower area is blotched or marbled with the same 
dark colour on a white ground. The sepals are of a 
dark chocolate hue with a golden tip, and an 
irregular yellow band near the base. The lip is very 
broad, with the upper half of a bright chestnut-red, 
and the lower half creamy. It is one of the finest 
forms in cultivation, and Glasgow may well be 
proud of it. 
Sobralia macrantha.—This is one of the freest 
flowering and most handsome of the Sobralias. The 
slender stems are 6 ft. to 8 ft. high, and bear lanceo¬ 
late acuminate leaves. The flowers are large, rich 
velvety-purple in colour, with a fluted lip having a 
white throat, and broad, wavy sepals and petals. It 
flowers from April onward well into summer. A 
position in the Cattleya house should be given to it. 
Cattleya labiata Schroderae.—This is one of 
the finest of the labiata varieties. The sepals and 
petals are pale lilac-pink, the lip being of a deeper 
colour. This lip is finely fluted and fimbriated, and 
has a fine, deep orange-yellow tb*oat. A good piece 
is at present flowering in an Orchid house at 
Kew. 
Laelia schilleriana.—This also is at present in 
flower It is not at all common, and is allied to L, 
purpurata. Sepals and petals lanceolate in form, 
white, or nearly so, the lip elongated, three lobed, 
and of a beautiful deep violet-purple. In habit this 
species resembles L. elegans. 
Laeliocattleya highburiensis.—A very pleas¬ 
ing and distinct hybrid. The sepals are light cinna¬ 
mon-brown, petals rose tinted with salmon, lip 
narrow and bright purple with yellow throat. The 
seed parent of this bigeneric hybrid was Cattleya 
lawrenceana crossed with Laelia cinnabarina. It 
was raised by Mr. H. A. Burberry, gardener to the 
Right Hon. Joseph Chamberlain, of Highbury, and 
received an Award of Merit in 1896. 
Laelia Latona.—The sepals and petals of this 
very fine Laelia are ginger-yellow, lip purple with 
yellowish base. 
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CINERARIAS. 
Cinerarias for autumn flowering should be sown 
in April or May. For prolonging the season sow 
in June or July. Prepare shallow pans by draining 
and filling with fine sandy soil, pressing this down 
evenly and forming a perfectly level surface. Give a 
thorough watering, and two hours later sow the 
seeds thinly, scarcely covering them with sifted soil. 
Place in a cold frame, rather than in a dry heat, 
standing the seed pans on inverted flower pots, 
cover with squares of glass, over which spread brown 
paper, and close the frame. The soil must never be 
allowed to become dry ; moisten as often as neces¬ 
sary with a fine-rosed watering can. When the seed¬ 
lings appear remove the paper and glass by degrees, 
but carefully shade from strong sunshine through¬ 
out the summer. When large enough transplant 
into pans of loam, mould, and sand, returning 
them into cold frames again. A northerly aspect 
suits them well, the base on which they stand must 
be kept moist in bright weather. Remove the 
sashes on mild nights in summer, to enable the 
plants to be invigorated by the dew. A good com¬ 
post for them is, two parts rough fibrous loam, one 
part crushed cow manure, with leaf mould, and a 
little sharp sand and charcoal. Pot firmly but not 
hard. Keep the frames close till growth starts again, 
giving plenty of space for the plants to develop as 
they grow. A weak liquid manure may be given 
them twice a week when established.— W. Hogarth, 
The Gardens, Norton House, Ratho, Midlothian. 
-» « - 
LIBONIA FLORIBUNDA. 
This is a very ornamental plant, suitable for green¬ 
house or conservatory decoration, and also for the 
supplying of cut flowers, although in the cut state 
the flowers do not last long. It is not at all a diffi¬ 
cult plant to grow, but to induce it to flower well 
the wood must be well ripened. Cuttings should be 
inserted in sandy soil, and potted off singly when 
well rooted. Another and perhaps better way is to 
put three cuttings round the outside of a small pot. 
When rooted put them into 4 in. pots, and when 
these are well filled with roots transfer to 6 in- pots 
By this method good specimens may be had by 
the autumn. The soil should consist of turfy loam, 
leaf mould, well decayed manure, and sand. The 
plants should have a warm position for a time to 
induce free growth. In the summer it is best to 
grow them in a cold frame in a light position. 
Plenty of air must be admitted to induce them to 
make short-jointed growth, but a little shade should 
be given in very bright weather. Towards the end 
of the summer, when growth is completed, a sunny 
spot in the open must be afforded them. The wood 
will then get well ripened and abundance of flowers 
will be produced. If larger specimens are required, 
the old plants may be pruned a little into shape 
after flowering, transferred into larger pots, and 
treated as advised for the young plants.— A. Keen, 
The Gardens, Holly Bush, Burton-on-Trent. 
DIGITALIS MONSTROSA. 
With regard to the illustration of Digitalis mons- 
trosa in The Gardening World of March 10th, 
Mrs. Keane wishes.to say that she has had it in her 
garden for the last thirty years. She supposes it is 
a native of California, as a friend of hers saw it 
growing wild there. It probably was unknown here 
twenty-five years ago, as Dr. Moore, of Glasnevin, 
had never seen it, and was very much pleased, and 
asked Mrs. Keane for some seeds. Possibly Messrs. 
J. Carter & Co. obtained it from Glasnevin. The 
seeds always come true. The name “ monstrosa ” 
does not seem applicable ; surely Campanula would 
be better. When planted singly it is not much, but 
in a long row or in clusters is very effective. In Mrs. 
Keane's garden a few years ago there was a beauti¬ 
ful group, all pure white, self sown. If this should 
occur again she will have it photographed for The 
Gardening World. Mrs. Keane saves seed every 
autumn; if any of the “ G. W.” readers would like 
it she would be glad to give some. Her address is 
Tivoli, Cappoquin, Ireland. 
— 
HOW TO GROW MUSHROOMS. 
Having procured the manure from the stables and 
shaken most of the straw from it, place it in a shed 
in a heap. Turn it over as soon as it gets into a 
gentle heat. Do this until all rank smell is gone. 
It will then be ready for use. I grow my early 
Mushrooms in one of our vineries which has a brick 
pit in the centre. The bed is now in full bearing. 
This is how I proceed :—Lay 6 in. of manure in the 
bottom, sprinkle over this the soil you intend to use, 
which should consist of three parts loam to one of 
leaf soil; tread the first layer well down then pro¬ 
ceed with another layer of manure and soil. Follow 
this on until the bed is from 15 in. to 18 in. deep, 
treading the bed very firm. The soil used should be 
moderately dry. Insert a pointed stick in the bed 
when you find the bed is getting warm; take note 
how much warmer the stick is at the bottom than 
just under the bed. Do not wait until the bed begins 
to cool before spawning, do it as soon as the heat 
begins to rise. The spawn should be fresh; it 
should feel spongy, for if the bricks are hard and 
dry you may know they have been kept in stock some 
time. Although the spawn may be good it is some 
weeks later in working than newly made bricks. 
Break them in pieces and place the pieces about 1 ft. 
apart on the bed. Make a place with the garden 
trowel and lay your spawn on a level with the top of 
the manure. There will be no fear of the spawn 
being burnt by the over-heating of the bed. Now 
cover the bed with your soil, which should be on the 
dry side ; wet soil means ruin to the spawn. Rake 
the soil level and beat it firm with a clean spade. In 
three or four weeks your bed should show signs of 
working ; if not, find a piece of the spawn, examine 
it and see if it has started to run. If so and the 
bed has got very dry on the surface sprinkle it with 
a fine rose just enough to moisten the top soil. 
Cover over with boards, leaving a good space between, 
and wait. Do not use a quantity of water it only 
means ruin to the bed. Beds can be made up on 
the vinery floor, and if made when the buds begin to 
swell, and the giving of air is properly seen to and 
the heat regulated, you need have no fear of the 
Vines or plants taking any harm. I might state the 
Grapes are now ready for thinning, with a good show 
of Mushrooms underneath. Beds made up in sheds 
should not be covered with litter until the spawn 
begins to show signs of working.--J. Wallace, King's 
Lynn, Norfolk. 
THE PROBLEMS OF HEREDITY. 
At the Royal Horticultural Society’s meeting on 
Tuesday, May 8th, Mr. W. Bateson gave a lecture 
on " The Problems of Heredity as a subject of 
Horticultural Investigation." We all know, he said, 
that there are capabilities of improvement in the 
