July 21, 1900. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
743 
giving them a respite from almost incessant water¬ 
ing. There are some unfortunates, who, besides the 
care of a thousand and one things, have to do the best 
they can to make hay when it rains. No easy task 
this, but it is no use grumbling, it only makes matters 
worse. It is best to possess one’s soul in patience ; 
and, however adverse the weather may be just now, 
hope for the best, and better things will follow. 
Everything.it is said, cunts to him who waits.— 
W. B. G. 
- -«• - 
BEDDING, PILLAR AND CLIMBING 
ROSES. 
M r. Geo. Paul, V.M.H., the well-known nursery¬ 
man and Rosarlan, delivered a lecture in the Drill 
Hall on Tuesday, July 3rd, Mr. Geo. Bunyard, 
V.M.H., in the chair. 
Mr. Paul had a written paper to read from, but 
his lecture was almost wholly spontaneous speech. 
Mr. Paul says that in the earlier part of the now 
dying century there were more Roses, more dwarfs, 
Chinas, and Ayrshire Roses than we have now. 
These were freely used, and in 1815-16 standards 
first appeared from the nurseries in this country. 
Previous to that they had been introduced from 
France, and they were soon after used in Rose beds 
above dwarf sorts. A few gardens at that time had 
pillars of Roses with the chains between them also 
covered with Roses. 
In introducing the subject of Roses forbeddiDg, the 
question was asked: “ What are the essential require¬ 
ments in bedding Roses ? " And the answer was, 
marked vividness and effect of bloom, profusion, and 
perpetuity of flowering qualities.and power to continue 
good year after year. No Roses are finer than the 
crimson Chinas which flower from June till October, 
Among the Chinas there have been beautiful yellow 
varieties raised of late years, and there are very 
many other lovely sorts. Queen Mab is one of the 
finest; Mrs. Bosanquet is another ; Ducher, 
and Empress of China, are further examples. 
The Chinas are marvellously free flowering. 
In point of profusion the Polyantha Roses, of which 
White and Red Pet are examples, are on an equal 
with Chinas. These latter, of course, are suitable 
alike for beds when pegged down, or for pillars. 
The varieties of Rosa polyantha have been 
numerously raised in France, it having been a 
Frenchman who first secured the species. 
Chinas are equalled or even excelled in brilliancy 
by the hybrid perpetuals. The best for bed¬ 
ding are Victor Hugo, Cheshunt Scarlet, Mrs. 
John Lalng, Mrs. Sharman Crawford, Paul’s Early 
White, one of the best; Mdme. Gabriel Luizet, 
Gustave Regis, Rosa indica sanguinea, Fellemberg, 
and such others. Where Teas succeed these are 
certainly among the best of bedding Roses. We 
have Francisca Kruger, Dr. Grill, Mdme. Falcot, 
Marie Van Houtte, Maman Cochet, and others. Of 
hybrid Teas La France, Capt. Christy, Vicomtesse 
Folkestone, Marchioness of Salisbury, Mrs. W. J. 
Grant, Gloire Lyonnaise, Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, 
Caroline Testout, &c., take a leading place. The 
Noisettes do not all make good bedders. Probably 
the best way in which to treat them is to plant a 
few plants towards the centre of the bed, and to bend 
down the shoots towards the ground all around. 
They should not be hard pruned. 
A valuable hint was thrown out when the lecturer 
described that to preserve the weaker varieties of 
Teas, Noisettes, and the like during winter, earthing 
around the stools and base of the shoots should be 
done. The process is the same as is done with 
Potatos. 
Hedge and Pillar Roses. —Why might we not 
have far more hedges formed of Roses, instead of the 
all-the-year-round evergreen subjects ? Rose hedges 
can be formed so that nothing can penetrate them. 
In circular-shaped gardens, said Mr. Paul, I would 
suggest having diagonal hedges radiating on all sides 
from the centre outwards at right angles to the 
boundary. The garden would thus be partitioned 
into distinct quarters and give great variety. Or 
this system need only be carried out with a part of 
the garden. 
For pillars and hedges the following are the 
choicest and best of all:—Paul's Carmine Pillar, 
Turner’s Crimson Rambler, Dundee Rambler, 
Psyche, Perle d’Or, Mdme. Frederick Weiss, Anna 
Marie de Montravel, Etoile de Mai, and others. 
These are all suitable for tall, loosely spreading 
hedges, etc. For hedges 5 ft. or 6 ft. high the 
following are recommended :—Allister Stella Gray, 
Rubrifolia, which makes one of the brightest hedges 
which can be had, for the foliage and stems are 
purple and the numerous flowers are rosy-pink, 
lovely after rain; the fine dwarf yellow Scotch 
Roses make dense and very charming hedges, 
indeed, these are the best of all ; the Penzance 
Briers make hedges 6 ft. or 8 ft. high ; Lord and 
Lady Penzance varieties, mixed with the deeper- 
coloured Austrian Copper, form splendid hedges. 
How to make a framework or trellis support was 
then explained. This consists simply in fixing a 
number of central posts in line at intervals, and in 
having for greater strength, lean-to posts on opposite 
sides of the central one. Wooden bars are then 
nailed from post to post. Wooden supports were 
recommended rather than irons or wires, the latter 
being liable to cause canker. The same thing 
applies in arch-making. In answer to a question, 
Mr. Paul said that Roses on their own roots were 
never so vigorous or so long-lived as Roses which 
are placed on stocks. 
KltGUBQ Garden calendar. 
Early Potatos. —In forward situations the tubers 
will now be ripe enough for lifting, and in most 
gardens the ground will be required for planting 
Broccoli and other winter green crops. Tubers that 
are required for seed should not be lifted thus early, 
as they start into growth prematurely, and the sets 
get shrivelled before planting time arrives in spring. 
It is a good plan to have a piece kept separate for 
supplying seed so that the tubers can be allowed to 
remain in the ground until the sets are thoroughly 
ripe before being lifted. Then by selecting those of 
medium size and laying them out thinly, strong 
shoots will be formed next spring. Sets that are 
imperfectly ripened have not their eyes properly 
developed, and they seldom grow strongly. Potatos 
are always best flavoured that remain in the soil till 
ripened, but where the ground is required for other 
crops this cannot always be done. If lifted, the 
tubers should be taken to a cool cellar till required 
for use and kept in the dark, otherwise they will 
turn green. 
Carrots. —The last lot of these should now be 
sown, choosing a sheltered situation, as they will 
have to remain in the ground through the winter. 
The early stump-rooted varieties are best for this 
purpose, as they grow quickly and do not suffer so 
much from the frost as the intermediate ones. 
Gem, Goldenball, Early Nantes, Parisian, and the 
like are all useful kinds, though Early Horn and 
Model may also be sown. 
Forcing. —To some it may seem out of place to 
mention this in the height of summer, but as gar. 
deners have to make preparations in time, a few 
hints now may be useful. In the first place. Mint 
is frequently required before there are any signs of 
its growth in spring, therefore prepare some boxes 
and fill them with light rich soil. In these insert 
cuttings made from the points of the young shoots 
having about a couple of pairs of leaves. The boxes 
should then be stood in a shady place, and the soil 
kept moist till roots are formed, when as winter 
approaches they ought to be placed in a cold frame. 
These can be introduced into the forcing house, 
when required, and will throw up much stronger 
growths than plants lifted from tfte open ground. 
Tarragon may also be treated in the same manner. 
Herbs of various kinds are in great demand 
through the winter, and where there is any likelihood 
of any being deficient, a stock should be worked up. 
If cuttings of Lemon Thyme, Rosemary, Sage, and 
such-like are inserted in light, sandy soil in a cold 
frame, they will take root and make nice plants for 
putting out in spring. 
Parsley is always in tequest, and as plants that 
have been growing through the summer often go off 
in severe weather, if a sowing be made now the 
plants will attain a useful size by autumn, when a 
portion may be transferred to a cold frame for winter 
and spring use. 
Rhubarb, intended or forcing, should have all 
weeds and decayed leaves removed from round the 
crowns, so as to expose the plants to the light and 
air as much as possible, but do not interfere with 
any foliage that is green, as this would have a 
tendency to keep the crowns active. As soon as the 
foliage has died down, the roots ought to be lifted so 
as to give them a rest. 
Autumn Onions. —If seed of The Queen is sown 
now they will make nice bulbs by autumn. These 
should be lifted and transplanted : ft. apart in 
October, when, by April next, they will be found 
useful, having attained a good size. April and May 
are the two months when good bulbs of these are 
most scarce, therefore, it is well to make prepara¬ 
tions in time. Those who have not hitherto made a 
practice of sowing this variety in the autumn would 
be astonished at the size the bulbs attain as early 
in the spring. We have often had them weigh half 
a pound each at the beginning of May. 
Watering. —This is an important operation, and 
one that requires to be done thoroughly. Most of 
our kitchen garden crops are gross feeders, and 
unless due attention be paid to watering when the 
ground is hot and dry it is impossible to obtain the 
finest results. Cauliflower, Peas, Leeks, Celery, 
and Runner Beans will pay for any extra attention 
that may be given them in the way of watering, as 
none of these will grow satisfactorily unless supplied 
with ample nourishment. Deep rooting plants like 
Parsnips, Onions, and the like, suffer less 
in dry seasons, though the latter are greatly bene¬ 
fited by liberal applications of manure water in dry 
weather, particularly on light, dry soils.— F. W. J. 
* 
Peaches and Nectarines —In places where early 
forcing is practised the earliest houses will have 
yielded their crops. The wood which bore the fruits 
may as well be cleared now, cut out altogether in 
fact, unless it be extension wood, as its presence 
will be of no service, but rather a detraction. By 
removing the late fruiting wood now, the operation 
of syringing is greatly facilitated. Tie in any 
straggling growths, and thoroughly clear the trees. 
The old-fashioned houses which allowed of the 
lights being removed were valuable, because one 
could allow the beneficial rains and dews to have 
play upon trees to which it was a capital aid. In the 
houses where the fruits are ripe a buoyant, dry 
atmosphere should be maintained. Trees swelling 
their crops should be syringed twice a day. The 
borders should not lack moisture, and if the crop is 
heavy and the trees not very vigorous, liquid feeding 
should be attended to twice a week. When the 
crop is nearly developed mulch the borders inside 
and out. Do not forget at the same time to 
thoroughly water the inside border. A temperature 
of 75 0 to 8o° should be maintained, shutting up 
early with sun-heat. Toward evening a chink of 
air may be given, but the night temperature should 
not fall below 65°. The latest houses require con¬ 
stant attention to thinning, regulating, and tying 
in. 
The Vinery. —The cool conditions of temperature 
recommended for the early peachery should be 
followed in the culture of the Vines, where the crop 
has mostly or wholly been gathered. Afler remov¬ 
ing the bunches thin out the superfluous growth. 
This will be quite enough in the meantime. What 
is termed a “ half pruning,” that is, a rather sharp 
spurring back of all the next year’s fruiting wood, 
may be performed shortly from this time. The Vines 
should ba rid of any mealy bug or red spider which 
may have infested them, and the canes should be 
ripened and rested as much as possible. The latest 
houses of Vines are just passing through the berry 
thinning stage. Syringe the Vines at least twice a 
day, and maintain an even temperature of 6o° at 
night up to 70° or 8o° during the day. 
Strawberries may now be layered. For plants to 
supply next year’s forcing stock prepare and use 
small thumb pots. Runners from the strongest 
plants should be secured. 
Melons.— Avoid over-cropping the plants. Four 
or five fruits to a plant is quite enough, and where 
more have been allowed to remain I seldom have 
seen them all finish properly. As soon as they begin 
to swell freely prepare to support them by a little 
piece of board placed a trifle obliquely, and just 
touching their base. SyriDge morning and afternoon. 
Very little air need be given. Plants in frames, 
however, should be kept more ventilated, and much 
care is required in giving the water. Slight shade is 
necessary.— J. H. D. 
