THE GARDENING WORLD. 
759 
July 28, 1900. 
in this class of plants. If much rain should fall on 
newly-potted plants, lay them on the sides until it 
has passed over.— Grower. 
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HYDRANGEAS 
Are useful subjects grown in pots for the embellish¬ 
ment of the greenhouse during May and June, and 
for this display cuttings from bushes that are planted 
outdoors should be taken during the next week or 
two, choosing firm short jointed growths, placing the 
same in thumb pots or three in a larger size. A 
compost of loam, leaf soil and sand will suit them, 
standing the cutting pots under a handlighl in a 
shady corner, kept moistened overhead twice daily 
until rooted, when air should be given, eventually 
placing them outdoors in a sunny aspect, and keeping 
well watered. When well rooted, shift on into 5 in. 
and 6 in. pots respectively. No stopping must be 
done, but endeavour to thoroughly ripen the growths 
before winter sets in. I find they will not withstand 
severe frosts. The points of the shoots often get 
killed back if left out, so I put them under glass 
early in November, keeping them fairly dry until 
February, when the plumpest-looking are brought 
into an early Peach house and kept as near the glass 
as possible. As soon as growth advances feed well 
with a stimulant, keeping a sharp watch for greenfly, 
and dusting them with tobacco powder if they put in 
an appearance. Remove them into the green¬ 
house as soon as the flowers begin to open. Heads 
9 in. to 12 in. across of H. hortensis are still in 
flower with us. Thomas Hogg, the white one, does 
well under this treatment.— J. Mayne, Bicton. 
“ON TREATING BEGONIAS, DOUBLE 
AND SINGLE.” 
A good many gardeners use chemical manures with 
which to feed Begonias, especially about the time of 
flowering. I have often done so, as it gives a 
healthy look to the plants, and also deepens the 
colour of the flowers. To grow them well for show 
purposes, chemicals cannot well be done without; 
but my experience is, with the very best sorts, that 
when highly fed they generally go off in winter; 
whereas others that only get pure water have kept 
all right. Now, I think the reason is simply this : 
that the tubers so fed are too artificially forced, and 
like Onions and several other bulbs when very much 
forced, never keep well. I have watched this with 
particular attention for some years, and I notice that 
when growth ceases and water withheld, that they 
seem to shrivel up to half the size, and by February 
they have disappeared all but the shell. After decay 
sets in, a small mite settles in them and completes 
the work. I would, therefore, strongly advise young 
growers, especially when growing expensive sorts, to 
use nothing stronger than sheep manure water, with 
a little soot in it once a week or so. By September 
stop this, and allow the tubers to get firmed up or 
ripened. Do not give any water in spring until they 
have started at least a quarter of an inch when they 
can be repotted. Almost every bulb starts strong 
and vigorous.— John C. Dick, The Gardens, Champ- 
fleurie, Linlithqrow. 
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BANANAS. 
The fruits are much esteemed on the dinner table, 
especially so if cultivated at home; but it is no use 
attempting to grow them unless you have a fairly 
lofty house, for they require plenty of headroom. 
The winter temperature should not fall much below 
6o°. The best way to grow them is to have brick 
pits 2J ft. square, and as much in depth, with a pipe 
or two at the bottom, so that water can escape, 
which they require in quantity when in growth, and 
when swelling up their fruit. Good and perfect 
drainage must be prepared for them. They enjoy a 
really rich soil and to be well fed as soon as the fruit 
begins to swell. 
The Banana can be fruited in twelve months from 
putting in the sucker. February is a good time to 
make a start; but where established plants are, young 
suckers are put out at any time they can be got, 
which make a succession. Keep the plants well 
syringed twice a day until the bunch of fruit appears, 
when water must be kept from it or decay may set 
in. Expose the bunch to all the sun and light 
possible by drawing aside the huge leaves As soon 
as the fruit is set and nicely swelling, the top should 
be cut off, and the huge bunch of fruit, oftentimes 
weighing from 40 lb. to 50 lb., must be supported 
with strong cord or wire. — J. L. Reynolds, Sidbury 
Manor, Sidmouth. 
SWEET PEA EARLIEST OF ALL. 
The special feature of this variety is its earliness, as 
it comes into bloom in the open ground several days 
in advance of Blanche Ferry (extra early), which was 
put into commerce in 1895. The latter in its turn 
was selected from Blanche Ferry, which was sent 
out in 1889. All three are of American origin. Little 
Dorrit, belonging to the same group, was raised by 
Mr. Eckford. Painted Lady, a very old variety, 
may be considered the prototype of all the four just 
mentioned, and which are characterised by having 
the standard of one colour and the wings of another 
hue. The standard of Earliest of All is rich carmine- 
rose, and the wings white, thus constituting what is 
termed a bicolor. We brought the flowers from 
Kelvedon for the purpose of showing the flat, erect 
standard by way of contrast with the hooded one, 
the two varieties we illustrate being characteristic of 
the two primary groups or sections into which Sweet 
Peas are divided when attempts are made to classify 
them according to form. 
-- 
TUb OrcRlU Browers’ Calendar. 
Dendrobiums.— Those plants that have completed 
this season's growths, which will include the earliest 
D. nobile, D. wardianum, D. leechianum, D. Ains- 
worthii, &c., will require removing from the growing 
house to cooler and drier quarters so as to prevent 
them again starting into growth. 
Generally at this season a space at one end of the 
greenhouse can be set apart for that purpose. Be 
careful though to shade from the full sun for a time; 
but as the pseudo-bulbs become firm inure them to 
the full influence of the sun and afford plenty of air. 
Very little water will be required at this stage, but it 
is not wise, however, to let them shrivel unduly thus 
early for the want of it. Let the ripening process be 
gradual and you will succeed. A syringe through 
and overhead in the morning and afternoon of bright 
days will be of great benefit to them. 
Peristeria elata. —This noble plant is now 
pushing spikes, some of which have nearly reached 
maturity, and should be encouraged by weak doses of 
liquid manure about once a weak. Drainage from 
the stable or cowsheds is what they like. Soot 
water is not bad but of too hot a nature to our mind, 
so that it should only be employed when no other 
can be procured. 
Lycaste Skinnerii, and, in fact, all of the terres¬ 
trial Orchids, are much improved by a little help in 
the way of stimulants. You see, they derive no 
nourishment from the hot water pipes, and the com¬ 
post they are potted in is generally devoid of much 
plant food. I may add, though, that whilst believing 
in affording stimulants to most Orchids, it should be 
given in moderation, and only to plants that are in 
good condition, with a view to helping them tide 
successfully over the flowering period and not with 
any idea of bringing unhealthy plants back again to 
their former vigour; for, unless there are plenty of 
healthy roots to assimilate the food thus supplied, it 
does more harm than good, and soon makes the 
compost sour, so that the last stage of the plant is 
worse than the first. 
Work in the houses consists of thoroughly damp¬ 
ing down morning and afternoon, and, in some cases, 
later in the evening. 
Fire heat may be dispensed with altogether whilst 
the tropical weather lasts, but the damping down of 
the warm division should be done early, so that it 
drys up a bit by night —S. C. 
Potatos sometimes form small tubers at the nodes 
of their haulms, and these will reproduce the variety 
just as well as underground tubers. 
Sweet Pea Earliest of All. 
