776 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
August 4, 1900. 
||ints for ||mateurs. 
Carnations.—As the seasons move along the various 
popular flowers rise to the summit, when their de¬ 
votees do them homage; and for a week or two 
somebody's head is commandeered by ficklesome 
Roses, Sweet Peas, or Carnations, and soon Dahlias 
will take the van, later on to be shunted to the back¬ 
ground while Madame Chrysanthemum receives 
adulation. Carnations are now at their best, or 
probably in the southern districts they are just past 
the freshest period of their reign. In the north 
they may still be hoped for, to warm the old love 
of its constant admirers. Under due care in culti¬ 
vation no hardy border plant is more commendable 
for culture. It is quite a distinct plant; it is an old 
friend, and there are possibilities even yet within its 
range of evolution or variation. We have not got a 
blue Carnation (I do not know why we want one, 
unless it is just to say we have it—we do all sorts of 
remarkable things just for the boast of saying we 
did them), but we are getting close upon that colour. 
At the Crystal Palace on Wednesday, July 28th, a 
remarkable slate-blue seedling was shown. It was 
ugly, but yet it was of value because it held possi¬ 
bilities. I was busy in appraising the " Gillyflower,” 
and stopped short. If it is compared with the Corn¬ 
flowers, I think the Carnation will easily obtain the 
greater appreciation, (There is a future before the 
Cornflower tribe—Centaureas—we want a second 
Eckford here). Campanulas and Gaillardias, dwarf 
Larkspurs and Geums, are all grand flowering plants, 
yet the little Carnations and Picotees are always 
looked at twice while these others may barely be 
seen, and are regarded as being useful in supplying 
variety and in Ailing a space in the border. 
Soon we will be busy layering the offsets for the 
next year’s Carnation plants. There is often a 
strong desire on the part of an owner of a certain 
fine variety of Carnation to layer all the shoots or 
" grass " which it produces. The amateur with 
limited experience should be warned only to choose 
the stronger shoots, and, after carefully preparing 
them (there is no need to attempt to break the record 
for fast Carnation layering), to fasten them firmly 
with due space between the selected shoots. Those 
not layered may be left alone, they seldom need to 
be removed. Nice sandy soil should be prepared 
beforehand, and placed either in a barrow or in a 
basket so that it may readily be transported. Wire 
pins are best for the pegging-down operation. Pieces 
of shoots, twigs, and ‘haulms of Bracken are often 
employed, and all are proper enough in their way. 
The pegging demands care. Negligence is punished 
by failure. The Carnation stem being brittle, the 
layered shoot ought to be pressed on the soil-surface 
flat and firmly, and from the tongued, notched, or 
slit part the apex of the shoot should be turned up¬ 
ward, so that the slit will be kept open. The pin 
should then be pressed down close up to the slit, 
and the whole thing then covered over with the 
sandy compost. Water the layers a day or two 
after thus operating, though showery weather should 
if possible be chosen. As The Gardening World 
representatives always look up the nursery stock of 
the chief growers of Carnations to describe the 
newer and best varieties of this grand flower about 
this time of year, I may refrain from enumerating a 
list of varieties, but would refer the readers of this 
page to be so good as to glance over any notes of 
these visits which may appear. 
Chrysanthemums.—The heated air of the present 
time tries the resources of the large-leaved Chrys¬ 
anthemums, especially where they have only recently 
been potted on. Though the leaves of the plants 
may wilt during the heat of the day this means 
nothing more than that transpiration is in excess of 
the upward supply of sap. When the cool of the 
evening comes, they soon prick up. About four 
o’clock in the afternoon, or earlier if the sun is off 
the plants, syringe them thoroughly back and front. 
This is beneficial, for it cleanses the foliage and gives 
a stimulous much in the same way, I should think, 
as a bath acts on ourselves. Previous to the syring¬ 
ing them, go over the pots and water the plants 
that need watering. In this connection one cannot 
be too particular. 
Plants of all sorts, which are grown in pots, are 
either made or ruined by the method of supplying 
them with the needful root moisture. The first 
daily watering of Chrysanthemums takes place 
during the morning hours and before 10 o'clock if 
possible. Then just after 1 p.m. there are sure to 
be some in need of sustenance. Attend to these; 
and about 4 p.m., or a little later, make another 
examination. The Chrysanthemums, when more 
than 200 are grown, require a man's whole time. 
The suggestion to plunge the pots to the rims, either 
in ashes or in soil, is good, only see that a piece of 
slate and some drainage is placed at the bottom of 
the trench before plunging. A wire or wooden fence 
for the support of the stems should now be erected. 
As they grow the stems are tied to this. Remove 
small lateral growths and look into the apex of the 
main shoots to ward against damage from greenfly, 
&c. Early flowering varieties should be mulched 
and staked. 
Sweet Peas.—Now that some of our leading 
florists, horticulturists, and pressmen have celebrated 
the introduction of the Sweet Pea to this country, 
let us hope that the worthy work thus accomplished 
will not be allowed to go into decay, or be placed in 
an early grave. From the papers published in last 
week's issue of this journal there are many interest¬ 
ing, instructive, and economically valuable hints to 
be gleaned. The committee, one may presume, will 
prepare the whole of the papers read at the Con¬ 
ference in pamphlet form ; hence we may all obtain 
a copy. The Sweet Pea has had a great lift through 
the work that has been accomplished. The impetus 
given will work itself out, we hope, in a more 
strenuous attempt to obtain crosses between some of 
the perennial species of Pea and the annual Sweet 
Pea. Sweet Peas should be sown in clumps and 
masses of one colour. I do not see why we need 
sow them in straight lines side by side. They are 
lovely that way, but if there were beds of Sweet 
Peas, say with a massive group of Sadie Burpee in 
the centre, and Countess of Powis, Stanley, Countess 
of Radnor, Orange Prince, and others in equally 
fine clumps around the margins, not necessarily for¬ 
mal, surely a finer effect would result. And mixed 
Sweet Peas are delicious. 
Some Hardy Plants: Isatis glauca.—The genus 
Isatis furnishes some exceedingly showy species of 
plants, all with a profusion of bright yellow Cruci¬ 
ferous flowers, which bloom at various periods of the 
spring and summer. Isatis tiDctoria is the common 
Dyer’s Woad, but its flowers are past. From a dye 
which il yields, the ancient Britons are said to have 
stained their bodies. It is cultivated to some extent 
yet, in Lincolnshire, for this dye. The species head¬ 
ing this note is one of the most handsome flowering 
border plants at present in bloom. The height does 
not exceed ft., and the massive branching head of 
flowers is very attractive and ornamental. All the 
species are readily propagated from seeds sown in 
spring. 
Scolymus maculatus.—This, and Silybum 
marianum closely resemble each other in habit of 
growth, form, and colour. The flowers (somewhat 
like those of Thistles) are yellow on the Scolymus 
and mauve and purple on the other plant. In its 
earlier stages of growth Silybum was recently men¬ 
tioned in " Hints ” as an ornamental hardy foliage 
plant, and the same may be passed iD favour of 
Scolymus maculatus. I would specially request 
hardy plant growers to look up a few of these out¬ 
standing, though somewhat peculiar, plants—they 
certainly add interest to one's garden, especially to 
uninitiated visitors. 
Campanula macrostyla.—Whether this species 
is common or not I do not know. It is at any rate 
very handsome, and may even be termed showy. 
The flowers greatly resemble those of Platycodon 
grandiflorum, that is, they are large, dish-shaped, 
and of a deep violet-blue colour. The stigma is 
large, and the style about 4 ins. long and shaped like 
a club at the end. The species grows 2j ft. in 
height. 
Gentiana tibetica.—In this we have a white 
member of the geuus. When at its best it is a nice 
alpine plant, suitable for the rockery. Other than 
the fact of its affording variety, it probably is not of 
any great merit. 
Centaurea glastifolia.—The perennial species of 
Centaureas are more commonly purple-flowered. 
C. glastifolia is an elegant yellow blooming sort. 
Centaurea diluta and C. eriophora are both yellow, 
the latter having large pale yellow flower heads. 
They succeed well in any hard, dry soil, and if lime 
is also present so much the better for them. They 
may be raised from seeds.— Beacon. 
Correspondence. 
Questions ashed by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening will be answered on this page. 
A nyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
"Amateurs’ Page " on the top of their letters. 
Nets for Heavy Fruit .—James Gibson, Perth : 
Pieces of herring nets with strings at the corners are 
used. The strings should be tied to some support 
above the fruit. Do not lift the fruit up; merely 
relieve the stalk from too great weight. 
Standard Gooseberries.— Amateur: Standard 
Gooseberries require a lot of attention in the way of 
pinching, &c., yet not more than cordons do. Still 
we would greatly prefer cordons where space on a 
wall or trellis can be given. You would have to buy 
the standards as trained plants from a nurseryman. 
Young cordons you could train yourself. 
Leaves of Tropaeolura majus.— Willie: The 
leaves of the Garden Nasturtium are not harmful, 
but in certain cases they act beneficially as an 
aperient. 
Mints for Culinary Purposes.— Epicure : Spear¬ 
mint (Mentha viridis) is of a brighter colour and a 
more clean-cut form than the Peppermint (M. 
piperita). Both are native plants. Peppermint 
is chiefly grown for the use of its tops for distillation, 
to obtain the valuable cordial known by the same 
name. Spearmint is used as a sauce and for flavour¬ 
ing. Mints of any sort are easily propagated from 
cuttings or pieces of the root. Forcing is largely 
practised. 
Saving Seeds.— Wilson Walner : As a general 
rule the flower spikes of hardy plants—annuals, 
alpines, and herbaceous stock, are cut when the 
blooms have completely withered. They are then 
placed carefully on pieces of brown or white paper, 
and are left on some dry shelf under glass as a rule, 
and exposed to the light. Occasionally give them a 
shake, and when a quantity of seeds has been shed, 
harvest these by placing them in paper bags and 
keep them in a cool seed house. A chest with 
drawers in a cool dry room would do very well. 
Label each sort to avoid mistakes. 
Tomatos in the open. — Job : It no doubt tries 
your patience to observe the slow development of 
the open air plants. But “ hope on.” Even if the 
fruits do not perfectly ripen by the middle of 
September—and that is some time hence—they can 
still be pickled. Do not feed too much, and thin out 
the flowers where they are too thick in a cluster. 
Give them a slight shake about noon on bright days. 
For the rest we still say "hope on.” 
Roses layered.— J. S.: Where good strong 
plants are wanted speedily, the layering system 
answers well. Rhododendrons and Roses are 
layered in the same way. Make a slight notch at a 
joint and firmly peg down the shoot. Soil contain¬ 
ing much leaf mound and sand should then be 
firmed around the shoot. 
Mulching Shrubs with Grass.— Ella : When a 
moderate quantity is applied over the roots of trees 
and shrubs in pleasure grounds the effect is good. 
Too much has had a tendency to cause excessive 
growth which, not maturing early enough, may be 
nipped by early frosts. 
Humea elegans in the open.— R • L .: It is no new 
thing as you seem to suppose, R. L., to grow 
Humea elegans in the open borders in summer. 
They do well if they are strong and good when first 
placed out. We grew them twenty years ago on the 
east coast of Scotland. Many tender plants do well 
outside from June till September. 
Is Hand-watering Harmful ?— J. W., Melrose ; 
J. W. has busily watered his plant beds on a few 
occasions, and he thinks that such watering is not 
beneficial. Well, if water is swamped heavily on 
plants of any kind, especially where they are not 
