792 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
August 11, 1900. 
|flNTS FOR ||MATEURS. 
The Month of August.—In many respects this is 
like a spring month, for we have much sowing and 
preparatory work to perform during its course. It 
is at the same time a month of returns, for many 
kinds of fruit are now ripe and ready, and others are 
continually becoming seasonable. August is a busy 
month, and one cannot but regret that gardens are 
not so fresh now as they were only a few weeks ago. 
Fruits of all kinds of trees are beginning to change 
to red or yellow, which in itself is a sign that 
autumn is drawing near. Not many of the leaves 
have changed so far, and very few of us wish them 
to. The sere and yellow leaves come all too 
speedily. 
Mignonette —Many a gardener and flower grower 
would like to have Mignonette in flower during the 
late winter and spring months. And why not try to 
grow a potfui or two ? A sowing in 48 or 32-sized 
pots filled with light soil at the present time will 
yield the necessary supply of seedlings. Place the 
ots under handlights or in propagating caseshaving 
a mild temperature of about 60". Glass squares 
should be placed over the tops of the pots and so 
soon as the seedlings begin to show up, gradually 
raise the glass higher and higher till within a week 
of the first appearance of the young plants, the glass 
may be finally removed. Too much care cannot be 
given to Mignonette in watering. They are very 
liable to damp off at the collar. Maintain the soil 
neither more nor less than moist. Good drainage 
will do much to prevent a wet condition, and frequent 
attention to the state of the soil will guard its drying. 
Thin the seedlings to five in a 5-in. pot, wherever 
they are half an inch high. They will then require 
full daylight and ventilation, with a temperature of 
45 0 to 50°. Some growers pinch their plants, but I 
do not think this advisable for plants sown at this 
advanced period. If sown in 5-in. pots, nice dwarf 
specimens can be developed therein without the need 
for a shift. Other growers again like to pot on into 
10 in. and 12 in. pots. The gardener with a small 
greenhouse, however, may very well content himself 
with the smaller sizes. Place neat stakes to the 
plants when they are of size to necessitate support. 
Roman Hyacinths may be potted up at any date 
from the present. They may be placed closely in 
5 in. and 6 in. pots, standing them in frames and 
covering them to a depth of 2 in. or 3 in. with 
sifted ashes. They will require no water till growth 
has commenced, which may be in five or six weeks. 
The soil they are now potted among should consist 
of three parts good mellow loam to one of leaf 
mould or spent Mushroom dung and sand to make 
the compost free to the touch. It should be just 
damp without being what one could term moist or 
clammy. Pot moderately firm. Other bulbs such 
as Scillas, early Narcissi, and Freesias may likewise 
be potted. This, of course, is very early, but the 
amateur, like any other gardener, is the better for 
being prepared. 
Cinerarias may be placed, like the zonal Pelar¬ 
goniums, quite in the open air till the end of this 
month. The practice of planting out is not 
altogether commendable. Experienced professional 
gardeners with every convenience, and who are able 
to bestow great care on the plants when they are 
lifted in the autumn, may find the system favourable, 
but others will certainly be much better advised if 
they content themselves with pot culture. The 
plants at present require frequent attention to 
watering. Slight shade and a cool bottom with 
cleanly conditions are further necessary factors 
toward their successful treatment. 
Carnations should be layered. The method of/ 
doing so was shortly described on page 776. 
Schizanthus.— The Gardening World furnished 
copious hints last year for the more liberal growing 
of these exceedingly pretty annuals. A sowing may 
be made now. If the plants are pinched and grown 
in a cool house all winter they will supply an extra 
early batch at a time of year when their graceful 
character and profusion of bright "butterfly” 
flowers will be very welcome. Further sowings may 
be made in December and in March. 
Bright Shrubs in the Garden.—All who are 
favoured with front gardens in sunny and sheltered 
places should give more than passing consideration 
to the planting of shrubs with light and elegant 
foliage, and if they are variegated like Negundo 
aceroides variegatum, or golden, like the Golden 
Elder or Golden Privet, so much the better. Only 
those who have had the pleasure of seeing a collec¬ 
tion of well-chosen dwarf shrubs of the description 
I suggest can fully comprehend the magnificence, 
the brightening effect and the satisfying scene which 
such compositions present. The Negundos may be 
grown in pots to be plunged out in May or June. 
The following sorts are recommended for this object: 
Negundo aceroides variegatum, Golden Privet and 
Elder, Acer palmatum atrosanguineum, A. p. roseo- 
marginatum, purple Berberis, Prunus Pissardii, 
Elaeagnus argentea, Cornus mas variegata, Cornus 
aurea Spathii, Acer rubrum, Golden Acacia, Elms, 
purple Hazel, and many such things as have been 
frequently noted in this journal. But better than 
compiling long lists it would be more to the point to 
ask my readers to keep their eyes open and to note 
whatever may take their fancy. A visit at the pre¬ 
sent time to any nursery which includes hardy 
shrubs would be more educative than bushels of 
print. Still, the above list may prove helpful, and if 
any friends do make enquires, might I solicit their 
good word in the interests of The Gardening 
World. 
The Care of Hedges.—Few of the features of a 
place have a greater effect in impressing a standard 
of quality to a garden or estate, than well-kept hedges. 
Where fine old Yew hedges exist and are kept in a 
proper state of evenness and strength, the garden is 
a garden,a place of comfort, and the amenities of it 
are much enhanced. They are said to harbour all 
manner of garden nuisances, but I cannot side in 
such a view. Yet, Yew hedges require a very long 
period to develop their best proportions, and they are 
not by any means the most reliable of hedge plants. In 
some seasons they seem scarcely to make any growth, 
and they do not transplant well. At the same time a 
good Yew hedge is, as I say, a valuable ornamenta¬ 
tion, and a fine means of shelter. 
Holly hedges in more respects than one are suitable 
and commendable for all classes of gardens. Holly 
hedges do not take so long to form as Yews do, and 
they do better on dry soil under trees and such 
places. Once properly formed they are impenetrable. 
Hedges of Beech, Thorn, Arbor Vitae, Privet and 
Briers are each very good in their place. A russet 
Beech hedge is exceedingly cheerful during the dull 
winter days, and even when the weather during 
November to February is bright, they still further 
brighten the aspect of things. Beech hedges of this 
sort need not be trimmed-in until growth is about to 
be made in spring. Thorn hedges, Yew, Privet and 
Holly may be cut at the present time. This is not 
too early if the necessary time can be afforded for the 
work, and before growth becomes quiescent the 
season's wood will have become sturdier and firmed. 
Yew hedges look best when cut square; Beech and 
Thorn hedges should taper to a rounded or acute 
apex ; Brier hedges are generally loose and freer, 
though the smaller leaved forms bear hard pruning. 
Arbor Vitae should be formed like the Yew, that is, 
flat on the top. In the spring of the year Thorn and 
Brier hedges are benefited more than any other sort 
of hedge by a top-dressing of loam or road scrapings. 
Miscellaneous Work.—During some of the present 
showery days or evenings one should prepare for the 
needs of the garden when the chill autumn and 
winter evenings are with us. Mats are always 
needed. Bracken, Spruce, Heather and A c paragus 
though now green and growing need not be over¬ 
looked or destroyed when their year’s growth is past, 
save them for use as protective material. The 
Spruce branches are generally secured from trees 
felled in thinning. Hazel and Birch branchlets 
should be cut for besoms. In October there 
is some turfing done. Good sward for the purpose 
can sometimes be cut from wayside roads along the 
firmed and somewhat beaten edges. This should be 
looked out. In autumn, too, the most violent wind 
storms occur, and besides making sure that you have 
stakes and supports for tall Asters, young trees, &c., 
be sure also that the lights or sashes of frames, pits 
and home-made houses are pegged down or can be 
pegged down securely at short notice. Thus while 
maintaining the garden up to the highest perfection 
by good keeping at the present period, like careful 
and experienced gardeners focus your view ahead, 
for preparedness greatly ensures success.— Beacon. 
-- 5 -- 
A Conference on arboriculture and pomology sits 
at the Paris Exposition on September 13th and 14th. 
Correspondence. 
Questions asked by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening will be answered on this page. 
A nyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
“Amateurs' Page " on the top of their letters. 
Species of Polygonum. — Student-. The Index Keiven- 
sis enumerates 243 distinct species and hundreds of 
synonyms. To our mind the most ornamental are 
Polygonum cuspidatum, theKnotweed, which grows 
10 ft. high, is bushy and exceedingly handsome; 
P baldschuanicum, a first-rate climbing species with 
wreaths of flowers; P. polystachyum, bushy in habit, 
and about 4 ft. high ; P. compactum, like a dwarf 
form of P. cuspidatum ; P. sachalinense, the largest 
of the genus, 12 ft. high, with massive green leaves. 
P. Weyrichii is included in this group, and it gets 
to 6 ft. in height. All the foregoing are suitable as 
specimen plants on a piece of turf or just within the 
edge of the shrubbery. P. amplexicaule is a fine 
border plant with purplish flower spike. P. a. poly- 
morphum is a variety. P. molle has trusses of pretty 
white flowers in May. P. clinode is distinct In 
appearance it is like a Stauntonia. P. multiflorum 
is a climbing kind with deep green leaves. P. lani- 
gerum, 2$ ft., has large silvery foliage; P. Bistorta 
is well known. It may be planted to form spreading 
groups and tufts at the base of rockeries. P. affine 
is in this class, but is smaller, and very pretty when 
flowering. P. filiforme is a dwarf species with 
beautifully mottled and flaked creamy-green foliage. 
P. orientale is one of the tallest, and other species 
include P. alpinum, P. vaccinifolium, P. capitatum, 
P. divaricatum, and varieties of the species already 
mentioned, so that there is plenty to choose.from. 
Potting Early Bulbs .—Forward : The early varie¬ 
ties of Narcissi, Early White Roman Hyacinths, 
Scillas, Chionodoxa Luciliae should be potted for 
forcing early next month. Freesias and Lachenalias 
may immediately follow. Use a good turfy open 
soil, and in the case of the smaller bulbs, like 
Freesias, place eight of them in a 4j-in. or 5-in. pot. 
Do not water them, but cover them over in a cold 
frame with fibre. 
Budding Roses .—Andrew Potter, Sidbury : The 
process is similar to that described recently for 
Apples. Roses may now be budded. Choose ripe 
plump buds, and if the ground at the root of the 
Rose or Brier stocks has been dry for some time it 
is advisable to give a nice soaking with water a day 
or so before budding. Do not delay between the 
taking of the bud and its insertion in the stock, 
Bind round with raffia—nothing more. We would 
refer you to The Gardening World of July 1st, 
1899, p. 696, where Rose and fruit tree budding is 
fully described and illustrated. 
Vegetable Refuse, &c ,— Wm. Henderson, Ard- 
rossan: Mix 5 per cent of lime with your vegetable 
mould. Secure as many prunings and such like stuff 
as possible to form wood ashes from by burning. 
Carbonate of lime and carbonate of potash will thus 
be formed, and these acting on each other produce 
one of the most valuable manures, viz. : nitrate of 
potash. Regarding thequestion about nitrate of soda, 
it is found in layers on the soil in the rainless 
regions of South America and imported from Chili, 
but how it originates we do not know. It is very 
soluble in water. Use it in spring as a top-dressing 
at the rate of to 3 cwts. per acre, according to the 
crop. There are 15^ lbs of nitrogen in 100 lbs. of 
nitrate of soda. Blood, soot, hoof and horn, shoddy 
and wool waste, scatch, &c., also yield quantities of 
nitrogen. 
Spring Transplanted Trees.— J. W.: Though a 
few of the leaves on your recently planted trees are 
brown and dead, so long as the apical leaves are 
green and growth being made you need not worry. 
Water the roots only when the soil stands in need of 
it, which can only be decided by your own judg¬ 
ment. If the trees are securely staked and the soil 
nicely firmed around them, nothing more is wanted. 
Manure would not be beneficial until they are 
established. Soot water is helpful, certainly, to the 
Crimson Rambler, and other Roses. 
Standard Currants.— A. D .; In small gardens 
where space is limited they are commendable 
