August 18, 1900. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
a fall collection of them. The Canterbury Bells are 
readily raised from seeds, as are also the C. pyramid- 
alis types, the C. persicifolia, and all those that are 
either annual or biennial. The perennial species 
are usually increased by division in spring or by 
striking cuttings at that period. When planted out 
they only require to be occasionally attended to 
with water. A soil of medium grade suits them 
best. 
Among dwarf Campanulas one of the finest, as a 
vigorous spreading species and pretty as well, is 
C. garganica hirsuta. The flowers are blue and the 
leaves hoary, while the stems creep over a good deal 
of surface when the plants are well suited. C. 
garganica itself is good. C. pulla var. G. F. Wilson 
grows from 4 in. to 6 in. high, bearing a profusion 
of violet-blue, large bell flowers. The varieties of 
C. carpatica are well known dwarf Campanulas. 
The species itself is blue, C. c. alba is white, and 
C. c. grandiflora grows 1 ft. high, having light blue 
flowers. One of the sweetest of them all and a 
perfect gem for a rockery is C. Hostii alba. It is 
exceedingly slender and graceful, bearing numerous 
pure white bells of moderate size. C. Hostii 
pallida is not so charming because it is blue, and 
there are so many fine blue Campanulas. For grow¬ 
ing in masses to form continuous sheets of brilliant 
deep blue, use C. portenschlagiana. It should be 
grown in the rockery in somewhat sheltered pockets. 
Then still among the dwarf Campanulas we have 
that grand little plant so popular with cottagers and 
flower lovers in general, C. isophylla alba. It does 
fairly well planted out in borders or rockeries, but 
in such places its large white flowers are not seen to 
advantage ; and on the occasion of a sharp shower 
of rain they become much spotted and bespattered. 
It strikes readily from cuttings taken in spring or 
indeed any time of year, and may be wintered in any 
cool house without much light or moisture. It 
forms a suitable edging plant for a window box. C. 
pulla has been mentioned. It is dark violet-blue and 
very dwarf. C. rotundifolia is the representative 
Scotch Bluebell, and is one of the prettiest of 
hardy native plants. C. turbinata is also a fine 
species which grows freely either on the rockery or 
the herbaceous border. It gets to nearly a foot in 
height, and bears a profusion of large-sized violet- 
blue open-mouthed flowers. C. latifolia and its 
variety macrantha are among the tallest and very 
best. C. glomerata and C. g. dahurica are distinct 
because of their bunches of violet-blue flowers 
which are so freely borne. It is one of the best. 
But the whole of them are fine.— Edina. 
KitcDen Barden calendar. 
Cabbage Seed. —The main crop of this should now 
be sown, choosing an open situation, particularly 
where it is intended that some of the plants are to 
stand in the seed bed through the winter. When 
sown on a border where there is an accumulation 
of fallen leaves the planls become drawn, and often 
either damp off in wet weather or get frosted should 
the winter be severe, so that instead of having sturdy 
plants in spring they are quite worthless. The seed 
should be sown thinly that the plants may be dwarf 
and compact. The varieties we have found most 
useful are Flower of Spring, Main Crop, Enfield 
Market, and Barnes. As a rule it is not large heads 
that are required, but close, compact ones that are 
crisp and tender. 
Spring Onions. —These are somewhat later this 
year in finishing their growth, owing to the wet at 
the commencement of the month ; but should we 
have a spell of dry weather they will doubtless 
ripen in due time. Where there are no signs of the 
foliage ripening press the stems down, which will 
cause the flow of sap to be arrested, and will hasten 
maturity. When lifted the bulbs should be spread 
on the surface to dry, or, what is better, on a hard 
gravel path. When dry they should be stored in a 
cool, open shed, taking care to keep each variety 
separate, those of the Spanish type being used first. 
Where autumn Onions have not been sown no time 
should now be lost in getting the seed in, or the 
plants will not have time to get established before 
cold weather sets in. 
Celery. —Where this is required for immediate 
use the most forward lot should be earthed up for 
blanching. It is, however, not advisable to blanch 
too much thus early, as when blanched the stems do 
not keep sound so long, particularly should there be 
a wet autumn. The latest lot should have been 
planted by this, but if not already done no time 
should be lost in completing the work. If the 
weather should be hot do not fail to keep the plants 
well supplied with water, or progress will be slow. 
French Beans. —If a sowing of these be made 
now in a pit where a little fire-heat can be applied, 
should the weather be unfavourable, these should 
give a good supply till well on in November. It 
will not be necessary to cover them with glass 
until such times as there is danger of frost setting in. 
Runner varieties must be well attended to in the 
way of watering if the weather be hot and dry. No 
vegetable gives a better return for the labour than 
the Runner Bean, as an enormous quantity may be 
gathered from a single row when due attention is 
given them, but when neglected they are of but little 
value. 
Cauliflower. —In late districts the seed of this 
should now be sown to provide plants for pricking 
out into cold frames, but in the south it is well to 
defer sowing till the first week in September, as the 
plants are apt to get too forward in spring. The 
same remark applies to Lettuce. When sown too 
early these seldom do well, as they are often killed by 
frost when the winter is severe. 
Mushrooms. —Manure should now be collected 
for making up beds for winter. At this time of the 
year there are usually plenty of these to be gathered 
in the fields, and one is apt to forget there will be a 
time when these are scarce. Beds in the open 
ground should now be in full bearing. To keep them 
thus as long as possible pay particular attention to pro¬ 
tecting them from too much wet, should heavy rains 
visit us, and should we have a dry spell watering 
must be carefully attended to. 
Weeds have of late grown apace, and as the 
weather has been somewhat unfavourable for getting 
rid of them every effort should be made to prevent 
them seeding. Any vacant ground should be dug, as 
this will destroy them better than anything else.— 
F. W. J. 
THE PUNT HOUSES. 
Hard-wooded plants, such as Indian Azaleas, 
which may require a shift, must be attended to at 
once. Any which were seen to some time back and 
which have made their growth, should be placed out 
on a path, where slight shade can be afforded during 
the hottest part of the day. When placed out in 
such a position their growth becomes thoroughly 
hardened and the buds expand strong and well the 
next spring. In rainy weather, or continued rainy 
conditions, it will be necessary to shift them under 
cover. Plants with perfect drainage, can stand 
much rain with impunity. 
Fuchsias on rafters require a little feeding. In 
houses of moderate height such plants are as decor¬ 
ative as anything else one could employ. Plumbago 
capensis is a sight at present in cool greenhouses. 
In the warmer houses, though the plants are still 
vigorous, some of the shoots may be thinned out, or 
shortened back. Another fine greenhouse climber, 
which those who have not got might well make 
enquiries for, is Maurandya scandens. The tubular 
flowers are deep pink or purplish, shaped not unlike 
an Acbimenes and borne in fair profusion upon long 
stalks. The lobed leaves form thick clusters, and 
during growth the lateral shoots should be properly 
regulated, keeping them at distances of 8 in. or 9 in. 
apart. Cuttings of the young shoots may now be 
inserted, and speedily rooted, by allowing a mild 
bottom heat; or seeds may be sown in spring. 
Some of the Maurandyas are annuals, M. scandens, 
I believe, succeeds out of doors in warm and pro¬ 
tected situations. Roses on pillars and trellises have 
slight cessations in their course of blooming. When 
ODe crop of flowers has been taken, give the plants a 
vigorous syringing and soak the roots, adding some 
liquid manure. A second and third out-throw of 
blooms thus rewards one. 
Cinerarias.— Keep these thoroughly clean, and 
now that the weather is damp and cool, be exceed¬ 
ingly cautious in the watering. Turn them around 
and rearrange them once a week, brushing the 
cinders to freshen them. Should strong sunshine 
shoot out and continue long, a light shading will be 
necessary. The same remarks apply to Calceolarias 
ia frames. 
80? 
Chrysanthemums. —We have had an experience 
of the rough winds which, as was pointed out, one 
might now expect during the autumn and winter. 
Chrysanthemums, like Phloxes and such-like in the 
open, have been much hashed in gardens that are 
open and exposed ; and those who are growing ex¬ 
hibition plants do not find these steady soakings of 
rain at all to their liking. What with so much dull 
weather during the whole of this year, the wood Is 
not so firm and short as is desirable, with the 
probable result that the colour of the blooms this 
autumn and winter may not be so pure and good as 
it might have been. Now that the plants are going 
ahead, they require to be daily attended to for tying, 
pinching and cleaning. Never allow an aphis to 
appear, nor laterals on stems meant to carry one good 
bloom. Place in stakes of a size that shall just 
equal that of the plants when full grown. Cut them 
evenly at the top. The pots should be washed clean 
and should be placed firmly on planks, in rows. 
Erect a fence arrangement to tie the plants to. 
Sometimes for safety, and to save much of the 
watering, the pots are plunged to the rims in ashes, 
but one need hardly say that intending exhibitors do 
not plunge. If this is done, see that there is 
drainage beneath the pots. 
Stove plants in need of a shift may now be potted 
on. Young stock must be potted on if clean, 
healthy plants are desired. Sponging, top-dressing, 
tying-in and due attention to watering, ventilating 
and shading must receive consideration. Achimenes 
and other late batches of stove plants coming into 
flower, may be placed in a cool house.— J. H. D. 
Cleanings ftttmt flje Dnclii 
of Sricnck. 
At a meeting of the Scientific Committee of the 
Royal Horticultural Society, the subjects mentioned 
hereunder were discussed. 
Peaches Diseased.—Mr. Rogers of Bridge Hall 
Gardens, Bury, sent samples attacked by the Peach 
mildew.” The Peaches become arrested in patches, 
never ripening where the fungus is located. Sprink¬ 
ling with sulphur is the best remedy. 
Roses decayed.—Mr. Kelly, Gardens, Greenwell 
Ford, Durban, forwarded shoots split and decayed. 
The appearance suggested their being cracked by 
frost and subsequently attacked by fungi. 
Nymphaea synanthic —Mr. Hudson sent a 
specimen of twin flowers united, of the lavender- 
coloured Nymphaea stellata from S. Africa. 
Stanleya pinnatifida —Flowering sprays of this 
Crucifer were sent by Mr. Bunyard. It is remarkable 
for the long spreading filaments and yellow sepals. 
It is a native of California, and figured in Gray's 
Gen. Flor. Amer. bor., pi. 65. 
Fig dropping.—Dr. Russell brought some Figs 
grown against a wall at Ringwood, Cornwall, which 
turned yellow, became shrivelled, and fell just before 
ripening. There was no fungus, but it was ap¬ 
parently due to want of water or nourishment. They 
were sent to Mr. Wright for examination, who 
reports as follows :— 
•* There are several causes that will effect Figs like 
the examples just to hand ; such as too much or too 
little water, not sufficient atmospheric moisture, and 
sudden checks in the atmosphere, also over-cropping. 
Any one of these will cause the fruit to drop pre¬ 
maturely. No fruit requires so much care and attention 
as the Fig,” 
Pears decayed.—Dr. W. G. Smith sent the 
following report on Pears received from Rev. H. W. 
Fletcher, Bicker Vicarage, Boston :— 
“ The Pears received were quite dried up, and full 
of mycelium ; they had assumed the mummified con¬ 
dition which follows attacks by Monilia fructigeDa, 
the brown fruit rot of Apple, Pear, Peach, and 
Other Rosaceous fruits. Cultures in a moist chamber 
produced several forms of fungi, including the form 
of spores known as Monilia. There were some insect 
larvae in one of the fruits. Your correspondent men¬ 
tions that the check began during a south-east wind, 
and also that the very early sorts escaped attack. In 
view of this it may be safest to assume that the crop 
received a check by this wind, and that the fruit was 
thus rendered susceptible to attack by fungi, &c.; 
the Monilia form producing the mummified condition 
of the fruits received. The earlier sorts escaped be¬ 
cause the fruit was further advanced and more 
resistant. All the dried fruits left hanging on the tree 
should be gathered and burnt.” 
