808 
August 18, 1900. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
INTS FOR 
'MATEURS. 
Hardy Aquatic Plants. — Inland waterscapes owe 
much of their effectiveness to the association with 
them of suitable herbage and vegetation. We of 
the garden cannot conceive of water alone, water 
unadorned. Sheets of quiet water are either to all 
appearance dead or they are sad and melancholy, 
else awesome and gruesome. The association of 
water (in its many states) with vegetation is one of 
the most beautiful of the primary features in natural 
scenery. Unlike many another phase of garden 
composition, the introduction of a waterscape, such 
as a lake or stream, is only perfect when natural pre¬ 
cept and example is followed. Our British percep¬ 
tion fails to be satisfied with a Japanese arrangement 
of land, water, and plants. Our lake basins and 
edges must be part of the same soil strata that com¬ 
poses the beds or banks bordering the water. When 
it happens that a so-called garden designer or land¬ 
scapist brings in " ornamental water " as a feature of 
his plan, and chooses, as is frequent, a position not 
wholly suited for the innovation necessitating up¬ 
raised concrete edges which are sure to become ex¬ 
posed, we are never guilty of writing a sonnet in 
praise of his wonderful work. Some grow angry, 
and show it. Others point out a means for hiding 
the eyesore, and hardy water plants come more 
largely into play. Scotch folks sometimes ask 
whether it was the river Clyde that made Glasgow, 
or Glasgow that made the Clyde. I never heard an 
answer to the question, but obviously each made the 
other. And if anyone cared to ask whether a cerlain 
scene was beautiful (in other words “ made ") from the 
presence of a breadth of water wich the accompany¬ 
ing trees and plants one could assuredly say ■' yes," 
yet the one wanting the other might not at all be 
beautiful. There is an inter-dependence throughout 
all Nature. 
The large aquatic and semi-aquatic plants have 
naturally the greatest effect, because they are dis¬ 
tinctly prominent. Semi-aquatic or bog plants 
(which must also be included in this article) comprise 
such as Funkia ovata and other of the Plaintain 
Lilies, Spiraea Ulmaria, Hemerocallis in variety, 
Iris laevigata, Gunneras, Rodgersias, Glyceria 
aquatica, Polygonum amphibium, and so on. To 
grow these semi-aquatics by the edge of water it is 
generally necessary to make some sort of station, 
not truly a conceptacle. Where the edges are not 
abruptly sloped it may suffice to prepare a root-run, 
and plant straight away. But in opposite conditions 
it may be necessary to fix down posts and make a 
retaining barricade, so that a steady margin may be 
guaranteed. Small square beds are usually made in 
those gardens where “ collections ” are desired 
rather than the best scenic beauty. Then again, 
true aquatics like the Water Lilies, Typhas, Sagit- 
tarias, &c., do require, in all cases, a made bed 
either of stones or wood. To grow aquatics success¬ 
fully the water should not exceed 2 ft. to 3 ft. in 
depth. Throughout the water mounds of soil should 
be made and kept entire by large stones around 
their base and sides. Sometimes baskets and 
hampers are requisitioned. Stones or turves are 
built around these, and they have this advantage, 
that they are easily situated, and settle firmly when 
the roots and the body of the soil have consolidated. 
Rockwork may be used to great advantage around 
the margin of lakes and streams. Even in small 
gardens, where ornamental water is introduced, there 
is need to consider the general aspect of the sur¬ 
rounding features. In “ gardenesque ” sites the 
lighter forms of aquatic vegetation should alone be 
used, or the grander types should be but sparingly 
employed. But these are matters for discussion 
elsewhere than in “ Hints." In the meantime it will 
be worth our while to consider some of the aquatic 
and water-edge plants a little in detail. 
Gunneras.—The Gunneras are large-leaved her¬ 
baceous perennials, which form thickened rootstocks. 
The character of their foliage is like that of deeply 
lobed Rhubarb leaves, though on occasion they 
measure several feet across. For growth by the 
side of water they deserve more attention than they 
have hitherto received. Gunnera scabra and G. 
manicata, the two species most frequently grown, 
are quite hardy. In a deep, loamy, or humic soil 
they do well. The natural habitat of the genus is 
spread variously over New Zealand, South America, 
the Sandwich Isles, Costa Rica, and South Africa, 
there being seventeen species in all. Though 
generally hardy, a covering of leaves or any of the 
protective materials may be furnished to them in 
severe winters. They require less of this when 
planted in beds as lawn groups or specimens. When 
propagation is desired the best method is to divide 
them in springtime. The genus took its name from 
a Swedish botanist named Gunner. The plants are 
not fastidious, and to anyone who has space they are 
commendable. 
Bog Rhubarb or Butterbur. — These bog plants 
are proper enough in their own place, but sometimes 
they are persistent nuisances, they ramble so. In 
the country, the water-courses are sometimes almost 
chocked with them. Still, their umbrella-like 
foliage of a deep green hue is interesting. It little 
matters what sort of soil one places them in, as they 
seem to do as well in a gravelly bed as among clay, 
though a rich soil furnishes the handsomest plants. 
Petasites vulgaris is the common Butterbur, which 
throws up its greenish flower spikes before the leaves, 
in March onward to May. P, fragans, or Winter 
Heliotrope, flowers in February. The whitish 
spikes are decidedly fragrant, like the flowers of 
Heliotrope. P. frigida, also known as Tussilago 
frigida, is another large-leaved species. There are 
additional suitable species but they differ little in 
general appearance from those just named. 
Coltsfoot. — Tussilago Farfara is distinct from any 
of the Petasites. The leaves in the first place are 
not umbrella-shaped nor are they- so soft in texture 
as those of the Butterbur tribe. They are leathery 
and in shape they are more like those of a tuberous 
Begonia. These leaves die down in autumn. As a 
dwarf water-edge subject it is very useful and com¬ 
mends itself. The variegated variety is employed to 
advantage in small raised beds quite apart from con¬ 
tiguity with water. When it becomes highly 
coloured toward the end of summer it is a bright 
little plant. I have also seen it used effectively in 
rockeries. Sometimes it is grown in pots, but it 
serves a better purpose when planted under the 
stages. 
The Flowering Rush.—All Rushes flower, and 
there are plenty of Rushes—the Bulrush for 
instance, and the Banded-rush, besides which the 
species of Juncus are called Rushes. But the 
flowering Rush is Butomus umbellatus, a stately 
plant which developes erect flower stalks terminating 
in pretty umbels of rose-pink cup-shaped flowers. 
The foliage is grass-like, resembling that of Carex. 
The flowering Rush is found wild in English 
ditches. When cultivated the plant compares well 
with many other aquatics. Division of the roots in 
spring is the means adopted for propagation. In 
height it is 3 ft. to 4 ft. 
The Reed Mace.—The Reed Mace, Cat’s tail, or 
Bulrush, botanically named Typha latifolia, is 
another British marsh plant. The name of Bul¬ 
rush, as was lately pointed out, is incorrect, the 
plant named Scirpus lacustris is the Bulrush. Typha 
latifolia, the broad-leaved Reed Mace produces 
strange, dense black spikes of about 9 in. in length 
toward the top of the tall, reed-like flower stalks. 
This spiked inflorescence is divided into a male part 
(uppermost, and usually yellow) and a female part. 
The little seeds or fruits are slightly covered with 
hairs which aid their distribution. There are twelve 
species, found in both temperate and tropical 
marshes. The lower part of the stem of Typha 
latifolia is a thick rhizome, by division of which it 
may be propagated. Seeds sown in pots aDd these 
then plunged nearly to the le\el of the soil in water 
is another means of propagating this elegant and 
prepossessing plant. It should be planted in mud, or 
it may be placed completely in the water, which, 
however, should be very shallow. It attains a 
height of 7 ft. T. angustifolia is narrower in all its 
parts. T. minima is smaller still. One way of using 
these three kinds together would be to plant the tall 
Reed Mace as a background and to have breadths of 
the others in front of it. 
Iris laevigata.-—There is nothing finer than these 
Japanese Irises for the edge of ornamental water. 
Their flowers embrace nearly all colours and many 
of the shades are uncommon, but exceedingly 
beautiful. As a rule, the flowers are flat, and 
measure 7 in. to 10 in. across. A marshy piece of 
land, not submerged, suits them well, or they may 
be grown in pans and plunged in water during their 
growing season. Several double forms can be 
obtained. Any bulb merchant will supply them. 
They are usually advertised under the name of I. 
Kaempferi, the name most widely known, but not 
the correct one. A further reference must be made 
to aquatics next week. 
Correspondence. 
Questions asked by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening will be answered on this page. 
Anyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
"Amateurs' Pa%e " on the top of their letters. 
The Onion Maggot .—Ecklinville : The present has 
not been a bad season for Onions • hot dry seasons 
are generally more favourable for the spreading of 
the Onion maggot. Soot is advised for young crops. 
It both acts as a stimulant and as insecticide. 
Crops for pickling may now be thinned. 
Mint Rust.— H. E., Wolverhampton : Your plants 
appear to be altogether smitten with the Mint rust. 
Mint is subject to attack when grown in shady situa¬ 
tions. If all the bed is affected as badly as the 
specimens sent here, your best plan is to burn them 
all, and make fresh beds in another quarter. 
Strawberries in Casks .—South Hants : We have 
seen creditable plants grown from the outsides of 
casks or wooden barrels. But they must require a 
great amount of care. Your plan is to get an 
ordinary wooden barrel of any convenient dimen¬ 
sions, thoroughly clean out the inside, and then drill 
holes of 2 in. or 3 in. diameter, at distances of 1 ft. 
apart around the ouside of the receptacle. The 
centre of the barrel may be filled up with a light 
wooden framework. This frame, which should be 
somewhat square in shape, should extend from top 
to bottom, and may be wide enough to hold a goodly 
packing of fermenting material. Between this cen¬ 
tral frame and the sides of the barrel the compost 
for the roots of the Strawberries is filled in. The 
Strawberries may be planted as the barrel is being 
filled up. The roots have then a better chance of 
being well spread. Careful watering is necessary, 
and the cask or barrel should frequently be turned 
round to maintain an even growth in all the plants. 
A considerable amount of Strawberries can be got 
from a small space, hence its value, as an amateur’s 
contrivance. 
Pot Vine for Cool House.—L. M .: By selecting a 
strong Black Hamburgh (price about 7/6) you may 
be able to fruit it next year in a cool house, provided 
the house is warmly situated, and care exercised in 
the culture. As you wish to plant it out, prepare a 
nice border, say 2 yds. wide and 2 ft. deep, to start 
with. The compost should consist of loam, lime- 
rubble, old manure, and wood ashes or charcoal. 
When the leaves have fallen, prune back the cane to 
3 ft. from the ground. It would be better not to 
leave any bunches should they appear the first year. 
This will allow it to become established, and to 
throw up a stout rod, which, on being pruned back 
to 8 ft. at the end of the next season, would be fit 
to carry half a dozen bunches the following summer. 
Henceforth it would only need to be spurred-in. Or 
you can always have a fresh young rod by leading 
up one of the basal shoots and cutting out the older 
stem Still, we would not recommend this. The 
border would require to be added to, and every care 
should be taken in ventilating, keeping clean, pinch¬ 
ing, thinning, and watering. 
Rhubarb and Asparagus.— T.: Young Rhubarb 
plants planted last spring should be allowed to grow 
rather freely, and the stalks to die down of their 
own accord. It is not good to take too many stalks 
from the crowns at any time. We should say it is 
now too late to get Rhubarb fit for making wine. 
About the Red Currants for wine we shall obtain 
helpful information for you. Asparagus crowns 
should not be cut after the middle of June. When 
the ripened shoots die they may be cut and used as 
protective material. 
Potting Alocasias .—Staffordshire : Frequent shifts 
are not beneficial to the well being of Alocasias, 
Antburiums, or any such plants. Unhealthy plants, 
however, must at all times be "doctored," and often 
the remedy lies in renewing the compost. 
