GLAD GOSSIP 
Among the real tall growers are Aflame, Bagdad, Deboniar, Princess Josephine, Douglas, G. Dream, 
Edith Robson, E. Melody and C. Coleman. Albatross, upright placement and bell-shaped florets. Anne Ra— 
many open but small florets. Bella Donna almost too light a blue. Berty Mair, Sal. Orchid is better, Bill 
Sowden has very large florets but only 3 or 4 open at once. Try some of the extra early varieties. True, they 
are not so much when the later ones come along, but, before the latter appear, they seem mighty fine. C. 
Clusius an appealing shade but so apt to crook. Cath. C. still mighty hard to beat in Show or Shop. Christa- 
bel looks promising, but late. Dream of Beauty, a very attractive color, as opposite placement as Henry 
Ford, but very popular with all visitors. Every one seems to have a good word for Edith R. Emile A. and 
Marmora seem to be losing their pep, hard to get good spikes. Gertrude S. a lot open but rather small florets. 
Jean Du T. used to make nice heavy spikes but Emma now is to be preferred. Heritage perhaps a bit lack¬ 
ing in color, but opened up 10 in the very hottest weather—nice flower heads but some stems very short. 
Grand Slam crooks easily. J. White too short and stubby. Mam. White wonderful one season and mediocre 
the next—apparently with the bulbs, which some seasons divide like prims. Bulbs and husks are tender so 
it is quite difficult to get those nice bright shiny bulbs—others in the same fix Christabel, Libelle, J. White, 
J. V. Tets, Phipps and more of the blue. Slow propagators—Mrs. Anna P., Hercules, Moorish King, J. V. T., 
Taro, Laidley, Lindesta. Laidley vs Cuthbertson the former with larger blooms and more color in the throat 
—the latter more open and a bit more color on the edges of the petals. Try Mary Elizabeth and plant it early. 
Moorish King, the best of the black glads, but Dr. Hoeg looks not so bad. Mother M., probably the most 
popular smoky now, with Bagdad coming along. Mrs. R. P. flakes too easily and so often spoils some won¬ 
derful spikes. Dr. M. is another that freckles easily. Cut Mrs. S. A. when the buds show color or a very hot 
day will fade out the rich orange. Red Phipps has the Phipps type of growth and spike but not as many 
open—a very nice red. Miss Greeley is about 3 weeks earlier than Phipps, Phipps itself may open 16 or so 
but is more likely to show up with 8 or so on a stubby spike. Queen Mary makes wonderful spikes of color 
but to get some fit for the show is another thing. Schwabengirl may come short. Smiling Maestro one of 
the best of the newer ones, also include Star of Bethlehem, Tip Top, Trevonian, King Arthur, Mary E., Red 
Lory, Maid of Orleans, Mildred Louise. Star Prince but 2 or 3 open. Snow Bound won the seedling cup at the 
Boston Show a couple of years ago. Watch it. Wasaga a more beautiful shade than Duna but not as vig¬ 
orous. Sal. Orchid a very nice thing but the bulblets are hard to start. Pelegrina vs Blue Admiral, the latter 
taller, stronger stalks, larger florets but not as many open. Veilchenbleu a shorter grower. Of the lighter 
blues, Blue Danube and Ave Maria do best for me. Blue D. is a much better doer in spike and bulbs than 
Libelle. Milford may be too pale a color. I was much impressed with Max Regur from bulblets. The best 
doer from bulblets the past season—Early Dawn; from No. 6 Olive Goodrich and Picardy. The first ten to 
bloom for 1935, Midbloom, Excellence, Fanny Crosby, Sweet Lavender, Miss Joy, Gold Eagle, Cara Mia, Miss 
Bloomington, Schwabengirl, and Aida. Many other extra earlies were from bulblets only, son can not list 
them. The next ten, Taro, Gladdie Boy, Prof. Slogteren, Mary Frey, C. Clusius, H. C. Goehl, Boynton, 
Yvonne, Berty Snow, Moody. 
Join the Connecticut Gladiolus Society if you live nearby. You will be warmly welcomed by its members. 
Send dues of $2.00 to Howard T. Munson, Warehouse Point, Connecticut. 
1935 reports on thrips are very cheerful. Almost without exception, thrips were less harmful. Many grow¬ 
ers discontinued spraying after midseason. However 1 suggest that preventive and control measures be not 
relaxed. 
Successful control measures include the following: 
(1) Treat the bulbs with Cyanogas-G or other fumigant upon cleaning the bulbs in the fall. Small 
quantities of bulbs may be put in paper bags or shoe boxes and sprinkled with napthaiene flakes—1 ounce 
per 100 lbs. Let the flakes evaporate. (2) Store in a cool, dry place and keep at a temperature of 40-50 
degrees. Do not let the bulbs freeze. (3) Treat or soak in a solution of bichloride of mercury (corrosive 
sublimate) before planting. Husk the bulbs previously, if possible. Soak for two hours in a solution of 
1.1000, one tablet to one pint of water. Use stone crocks, glass jars, or wooden tubs—not a metal container. 
Large numbers of bulbs may be tied in sacks and kneaded on the floor in lieu of husking. Thorough soaking 
will destroy all thrips and their eggs. (4) Spray every week or ten days after the plants are six inches high. 
Do not wait until the bud spikes appear. It is too late then. Effective spraying will control those thrips that 
have survived or that may appear from nearby infestations. The cheapest and most effective spray now 
seems to be a combination of molasses or white sugar, and paris green or arsenate of lead—one pint of mo¬ 
lasses to two tablespoons of paris green to three gallons of water. Keep the solution well stirred. An over¬ 
dose of paris green will severely burn the foliage or even kill the plants. Arsenate of lead will not burn, 
sticks to the foliage better, but shows up plainly on foliage. Black-leaf 40 may be added if desired. Appar¬ 
ently, thrips have a “sweet tooth” and thus get the poison. Other and more expensive materials are Cubor, 
Red Arrow and Lethane. (5) Destroy all refuse such as old blooms, tops, and old corns. (6) Plant early. 
Early varieties will probably come thru without spraying. 
ERNEST S. CLARK, Jr., Windsor, Connecticut 
CADILLAC PRINTING CO. 
CADILLAC, MICH. 
